Introduction
About Pathways
Appalachian Trail
Why Walk?
Make a Pledge
Hiking Schedule
Journal
Photos
Links
Acknowledgements
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September 15, 2001
There are many reasons why I haven't written since before I summitted on the twelfth of September. Quite opposed to everything that I said, I rushed at the end to be with all my friends. I had long full days of hiking with Fender and Happy.
When I left Antlers Campsite where the last entry was written, 22 miles quickly turned into 25 when we decided to go to the White House Landing. It's the only hostel in the Hundred Mile Wilderness. However, since I saw day hikers and motorized vehicles everyday I was in the Wilderness, I saw no problem going for a midday snack. To get there, a hiker has to walk about a mile and a half from the trail to a boat dock on Pemudoncook Lake. There you sound an airhorn to signal a boat to come across the lake and shuttle you to a cabin stocked with homemade pizza, cheeseburgers, and Ben and Jerry's ice cream. Bill and Linda, their son Ben, and chocolate lab Pooh Bear have been there for ten years, helping hikers for three. Very relaxing place and great hospitality. Before we got there, we walked 1.5 miles out of the way on the wrong logging road. Rather than walk all the way back, we figured we might as well try to flag down one of the logging trucks barreling down the gravel road--leaving clouds of dirt in their wake. Fender hid while Happy and I stuck out our thumbs so far into the road that the truck had no choice but to slow down. The ride in the flat bed was jolting, and soon dirt caked our greasy, sweaty hair and skin. "The Graveytrain" returned us to the trail head, Happy riding high on her pack while Fender and I held on to the upright supports to keep from being bounced off the side.
All our adventures made it necessary to night hike into Rainbow Stream Lean-to. On the way we made up action figures for the Apple Dumplin' Gang--a group of half dozen guys and Happy. We arrived at camp just as the rain began. I stayed in happy's two person tent after splinting the poles in the rain. We packed up everything wet the next morning. I immediately fell off the log bridge into the river leaving camp. Amazingly, I threw my poles, landed on damp rocks, and only put my hands in the water. It all happened too fast to be scary. I hiked past Jo-Mary Lake and up to Rainbow Ledges where I got the first close-up view of Katahdin. I was hiking alone and had reached a state of calm in my head. Upon leaving I met Alan, Happy's husband, hiking in to meet her. He told me about the planes crashing in to World Trade Center. It deflated my victory, shrunk the mountain, dwarfed the accomplishments of the past six months, and made me feel extremely lucky to be in the woods of Northern Maine. I came out of the Hundred Mile Wilderness and watched footage at Abol Bridge.
I arrived at Daicey Pond at dusk. Everyone I'd been chasing all week was at the campground two miles away. No more space, as if I wanted to walk another mile. Just as I was getting into my sleeping bag, a car pulled up to the lean-to. (There is road access at Daicey.) Happy, Smittee, Jeremiah Johnson, and Badmoon had brought a couple beers to coerce Fender and me into a sunrise summit with all of them. They wouldn't leave until we agreed, but I was an easy sell.
So 3 1/2 hours later, I got up to hike again, seven miles in the dark to the summit. The stars above the field and over the ponds were phenomenal. There was actually a detour sign on the trail and some tricky rock climbing with a whole pack on. My headlight died despite the fresh batteries I put in it. I wasn't at the summit, but was above treeline, when the sun rose. The final two miles and 1250' are above treeline. The entire climb ins 4200' in four miles for a height of 5267'. The wind came up and I had to stow my poles and put on more clothes even though the strenuous climb engaged my entire body.
As the stars became dim, the waning crescent moon and a low planet continued to shine overhead. The sun rose on the other side of the mountain. The glow of dawn's gold quickly became pink. The pink lasted forever, (or did the climb last forever?), slowly revealing more distant peaks and lakes below. The sun was up when I reached the summit four hours and seven miles later.
Waiting with sleeping bags over themselves were Mary Poppins, Leslie, Cy, Badmoon, Fiddlehead and Smiles, Loungshanks and Blur, Smittee, Happy and Alan, and JJ. To keep their boots on, they'd put their bags over their heads and rosy faces peered out of the foot zippers. Fender passed around the blueberry moonshine that he had carried through the Hundred Mile Wilderness. We all took pictures atop the Big K. We hiked en masse across the Knife's Edge--one mile of completely exposed ridge between Katahdin and Pamola Peak. There are magnificent 360 degree views and touch climbs and descents. The three miles down to Roaring Brook were the longest miles of my life. The wind had died down. Adrenaline was gone. Blazes had changed from white to blue. I was spent. Without sleep or food, chilled victory bourbon that Boo, Happy's sister, through us sippled down even easier than it had in college. We celebrated over Big Macs at McDonalds. My stomach almost burned up upon re-entry to the real world. We almost fell asleep before we piled 12 of us into the cab of an F350 and went to the Blue Ox Saloon in Millinocket. And what a celebration it was--car bombs all around. Somehow Mary and I held the pool table for 2 games and I only hit one ball in (He wasn't much better.)
The next day folks departed. After Stacy and her Dad summitted, they and Pandora came to get me and I got special treatment in Old Town. Salmon and potatoes and salad for dinner. Zucchini cake and ice cream. A real bed. A driving tour of Bar Harbor and Acadia Sate Park ,including Cadillac Mountain, from which the Porcoupien Islands and Mt. Katahdin are visible. Lobster on the coast and good company.
Now I'm on a bus from Bangor to Boston to see the crew on more time at Longshanks and Blur's house.
I've never had less direction in my life. Before leaving the trail, I sufficiently wore myself out so I'm temporarily okay with not hiking. I don't want to leave the lifestyle though. I plan to see all these folks at least one more time. I may be at peace. I may be numb, but I'm not going to worry about the future just yet.
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