Part 1: Arrival

Our journey to Nepal began one day before it would actually begin -- our flight was delayed by twenty-four hours. With our bags packed and everything ready to go, we idled the day away, dreaming of fresh, cool mountain air and inspiring views of the Himalayas.
When we finally arrived at the airport, we were greeted by Govinda, our guide, cook and housekeeper for the next week. He hired a car to drive to Phulbari, which lies a couple hours east of Kathmandu. As we left the city behind, we were captivated by the beautiful scenery all along the roadside.

Our original plan was to take a new road which was still being built (funded by the Japanese). Govinda had stopped in town to get a special permit for that road. But when we reached that junction, the gate was closed, and the guard said that we could not use the road, due to some construction activity that day.
And so we took the old road, which, at times, seemed more like a trail, covered with tree roots and large rocks. The road began rough and became even worse as we drove further and further up the mountain, and seemingly further away from civilization. Our vehicle was not an SUV or an ATV, but a regular old sedan. But the driver navigated the ruts and boulders with uncommon skill, several times passing through sections which we were certain would stop us. We were ready to get out and walk at any moment.

In fact, once we did get out of the car during a particularly bad uphill stretch. We stepped out to lighten the load of the vehicle, so that it was not quite as low to the ground. From an outside vantage point, we could also better appreciate what the tires of the car were dealing with. However, the car seemed at many times to be far more hassle than it was worth. After all, we only had two bags of luggage, and were only a few miles away from our destination. Our poor driver would also have to worry about getting back to Kathmandu after dropping us off, too. The closer he got us to our destination, the longer was his trip home. But he was determined to get us there, and refused to let us walk, even when we were passed by a woman carrying a large and heavily loaded basket on her back.

From time to time, we could view the Japanese road that was under construction down below. It looked so smooth and luxurious in comparision to the route we had been travelling. It slowly rose along the cultivated terraces which stepped up and up the hillside. I can imagine that once the new road is opened, villagers (and tourists) travelling to and from Kathmandu will be able to save much time on their journeys, and will be kicking up far less dust.

The air was gradually becoming crisper and clearer as we rose in altitude. Our excitement gathered quickly as, at last, we could see the snow-capped peaks of the mighty Himalayas in the distance. The top of the world was within our sights! But despite the cool breeze and the views of distant snowfields, we were still in what was essentially a tropical environment. Unlike the dry mountains of the American west, these foothills were well-utilized for agriculture, taking good advantage of the bright sun and adequate rainfall.

Despite the rough and isolated distance which we traversed on the way, we found our destination to be a world of true comforts. The organic farm, where we stayed, was situated on a hilltop above the village of Phulbari. The modest farmhouse was beautiful and well-kept, but did not seem ostentatious. Like the other buildings in the area, its earthen brick walls and thatched roof blended in to the ground and gardens arounds it.

At the farmhouse, Govinda introduced us to the other men who worked at the farm. This group photo shows, from left to right, one of the gardeners; Purliman, a mason, who would later lead us on hikes around the area; Govinda, our cook; the night watchman; Stephanie; and Keith.

Later, in the evening, our room was prepared, and we were shown our sleeping quarters on the second floor of the farm house. The ceiling was rather low, and I had to be careful to keep my head down and out of danger of hitting a beam. It was interesting to see that, despite the chilly nights, there were ventilation holes in the walls and shutters. We were very glad to be out of the hot and humid nights of Dhaka, where we had spent the previous two and a half months. But we were also very glad that we had thick blankets to keep us warm.

Continue to Part 2: Grounds . . .

All words and photos copyright (c) 2001 by Keith Jenkins
k g j 2 2 @ y a h o o . c o m

	Part 1: Arrival
	Our journey to Nepal began one day before it would actually begin -- our flight was delayed by twenty-four hours. With our bags packed and everything ready to go, we idled the day away, dreaming of fresh, cool mountain air and inspiring views of the Himalayas. When we finally arrived at the airport, we were greeted by Govinda, our guide, cook and housekeeper for the next week. He hired a car to drive to Phulbari, which lies a couple hours east of Kathmandu. As we left the city behind, we were captivated by the beautiful scenery all along the roadside.
	Our original plan was to take a new road which was still being built (funded by the Japanese). Govinda had stopped in town to get a special permit for that road. But when we reached that junction, the gate was closed, and the guard said that we could not use the road, due to some construction activity that day. And so we took the old road, which, at times, seemed more like a trail, covered with tree roots and large rocks. The road began rough and became even worse as we drove further and further up the mountain, and seemingly further away from civilization. Our vehicle was not an SUV or an ATV, but a regular old sedan. But the driver navigated the ruts and boulders with uncommon skill, several times passing through sections which we were certain would stop us. We were ready to get out and walk at any moment.
	In fact, once we did get out of the car during a particularly bad uphill stretch. We stepped out to lighten the load of the vehicle, so that it was not quite as low to the ground. From an outside vantage point, we could also better appreciate what the tires of the car were dealing with. However, the car seemed at many times to be far more hassle than it was worth. After all, we only had two bags of luggage, and were only a few miles away from our destination. Our poor driver would also have to worry about getting back to Kathmandu after dropping us off, too. The closer he got us to our destination, the longer was his trip home. But he was determined to get us there, and refused to let us walk, even when we were passed by a woman carrying a large and heavily loaded basket on her back.
	From time to time, we could view the Japanese road that was under construction down below. It looked so smooth and luxurious in comparision to the route we had been travelling. It slowly rose along the cultivated terraces which stepped up and up the hillside. I can imagine that once the new road is opened, villagers (and tourists) travelling to and from Kathmandu will be able to save much time on their journeys, and will be kicking up far less dust.
	The air was gradually becoming crisper and clearer as we rose in altitude. Our excitement gathered quickly as, at last, we could see the snow-capped peaks of the mighty Himalayas in the distance. The top of the world was within our sights! But despite the cool breeze and the views of distant snowfields, we were still in what was essentially a tropical environment. Unlike the dry mountains of the American west, these foothills were well-utilized for agriculture, taking good advantage of the bright sun and adequate rainfall.
	Despite the rough and isolated distance which we traversed on the way, we found our destination to be a world of true comforts. The organic farm, where we stayed, was situated on a hilltop above the village of Phulbari. The modest farmhouse was beautiful and well-kept, but did not seem ostentatious. Like the other buildings in the area, its earthen brick walls and thatched roof blended in to the ground and gardens arounds it.
	At the farmhouse, Govinda introduced us to the other men who worked at the farm. This group photo shows, from left to right, one of the gardeners; Purliman, a mason, who would later lead us on hikes around the area; Govinda, our cook; the night watchman; Stephanie; and Keith.
	Later, in the evening, our room was prepared, and we were shown our sleeping quarters on the second floor of the farm house. The ceiling was rather low, and I had to be careful to keep my head down and out of danger of hitting a beam. It was interesting to see that, despite the chilly nights, there were ventilation holes in the walls and shutters. We were very glad to be out of the hot and humid nights of Dhaka, where we had spent the previous two and a half months. But we were also very glad that we had thick blankets to keep us warm.

Travelogue: One Week in Nepal

Part 1: Arrival

Continue to Part 2: Grounds . . .