Correspondence
Occasionally I like to send a missive home to friends and family (those who's email addresses I can remember). This works as a theraputic device to vent my pent-up verbal diarrhea, and it also lets mum know that I haven't been eaten by Asiatic rats or succumbed to some brand new Asian disease.
A lot of what I wrote in these e-mails are very 'first impression', so they're no longer entirely accurate. For instance, my 50 Yuen note was scrutinized heavily because counterfeit money is rife here - and people new to the country are easily taken advantage of with funny munny.
Also, there are a lot of references to friends, family, and stupid shit that only myself and three other people would know about - so if you don't understand some comparisons, it's ok - you're doing your best!
You can e-mail me at herbalessence69@hotmail.com.
I've also left the spelling mistakes in for reasons of laziness.
Here they are in chronological order.
E-mail sent: Febuary 6th
Subject: Hi everyone it's me talking
Hi everyone,
Matt here, sending an email all the way from chilly China.
Things are going nice. There are a lot of things to get used to, but at the same time there are a lot of things that remind me of back home. Well, remind me of Nambour at any rate.
The apartment I have, by Chinese and my colleague's standards, is quite good. Which is to say by Nambour's standard it's about on the second rung of the ladder. It's a bit dirty and there's no carpet (probably for the best) but I have comfy couches, a water cooler and nice little washing machine. The landlord is cool too, he is a physical chemistry teacher at the college next door, and he gave me a model boat for good luck.
One thing, though, that might take a good decade to get used to is the toilet. I remember Veronica (my sister if anyone doesn't know) telling me that her friend once shared a house with an asian couple. All things were going well until one day the shower stuffed up and required the services of a plumber. The plumber found that the problem was someone had been using the shower drain as a toilet.
Well, if my shower/toilet arrangement is anything to go by, that is the normal procedure here in China. Basically I have to monkey my business in a pear-shaped hole in the ground then throw in a bucket of water to essentially 'flush' it. Pretty fancy, no? I should just do what I saw some little girl do the other day and piss on the sidewalk next to the Teem Plaza.
This shower/toilet problem also creates another dilemma - whenever I shower I have to avoid standing in a toilet-sized hole in the ground and breaking my ankle (as well as standing in what I would guess isn't the cleanest water in the Northern Hemisphere). But oh well, the bus service is pretty cheap, so I guess that makes it all work out.
I went into McDonalds for dinner last night. They have no quarter pounder but two chicken burgers, as well as wings and drumsticks. The staff were very helpful, and their uniforms were actually pretty cool - jeans and a black tshirt with 'I'm Lovin' It!' printed on it. As well as assorted chinese characters, of course.
The meal itself was - true to McDonald's design - a bit on the dodgy side. I had one of the chicken burgers, and it was the veiniest piece of shit I've ever had. I've seen less veins in a John Holmes movie.
They had Happy Meals of course, and they had the exact same Finding Nemo toys we had. Exact.
One thing that I should be instated at Australian McDonalds is a hand sanitizer for use by customers. It's like the one we had at Domino's that I missed ever so dearly at Eagle Boys.
The people here are pretty cool I guess, much the same as the general population of Nambour. So basically, most 20 year old girls are nice and courteous, and the men over 50 are generally all pricks. But o the whole I'd say they are pretty nice. They all say "'ello" when I use their services, are very helpful with their gesticulation and always giggle when I try to say 'xie xie' ('thank you' in Mandarin, if you haven't seen Rush Hour). One store though, was convinced I was a criminal, and spent a good minute analyzing a 50 yuen note to make sure it wasn't counterfeit.
One thing that is pretty sad though is the child beggers on the street. They see me,a relatively well-off and tall foreigner and run up with their bowls and ask for money. Once one of those kids come up to you you can't shake them off for a good 2 minutes. Theydon't follow you - they stand in front of you and block your path - left, right - I even tried some of my expert dummy pass moves I learnt from years of extensive rugby training yet still I couldn't shake him off. All the passing locals laughed a sort of 'haha, suck shit buddy' laugh at me, until one angry looking woman grabbed him by the shoulder and took him away. It looked like she did it more out of contempt for the boy rather than pity for me.
The reason I didn't give him any money is because Roger (a tall American guy who works for the same company I do) tells me they're like prostitutes, with pimps and stuff,and giving them money only makes it worse. I didn't give them any money, but these two little fellas wanted me to pour some coke into their bowl, so I did. They were cool, I had a little conversation with them. Didn't get very far, but we thought of eachother as funny dudes. One of them looked like Poppy Kurapatoff if anyone remembers him.
I had an authentic Halal mutton bits with heart last night (after the McD's) and it's been repeating on me, even to this morning. So I'd better go now. I also need to buy some trakky dacks, as my bag was almost bursting so I left them in a cupboard in Japan.
I hope you're all hard up for reading material and enjoyed reading my rambling travelogue.
See you all later on - Bill and Ben sooner than the rest if it's viable.
-Mattch Elisabeth
PS sorry about the spelling mistakes but this keyboard is odd and my fingers are freezing.
The grammer mistakes was on purpose though.
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E-mail sent: Febuary 11th
Subject: Hello from a broad
Hi gang,
Things in China are going well. It's getting warmer here and it's stopped raining, so for the first time I can actually see the sky - and really, it's not too impressive. It's all grey and washed out, like a pair of denims with the colour faded.
Without the rain you see a lot more dust and smog. You can't actually see the horizon; it's obscured by a mist of smoke and pollution, so that's not great.
Anyway, I finally started teaching on Monday, and I have to say it was pretty cool. I teach mainly grade 3s (18 lessons a week!) and I teach them all the same thing, so it can get a bit monotonous really, but at least my lesson plans are a piece of piss. I could go a century without hearing a bunch of kids screaming 'GRANFADDA!' at me though.
It's cool to see how similiar and how different the school system is run within China. Every day (I think) the kids begin with some exercises. Then they sing the anthem, then they salute the flag. They're at school from 8 in the morning until 5 in the afternoon, which sounds awful but get this: after lunch, everybody has an afternoon nap. Even the teachers! What a mind blower. They all grab a blanket and a pillow then sleep on the desk for an hour or so. Crazy. And we get a free lunch: a lovely chinese meal of some sort and some rice. We had Chrysthanthenum soup the other day. Beats the warm sausage rolls of St. Joseph's, that's for sure.
The kids are all pretty nice I guess, some of them are are really cute.
It's really weird standing in front of a classroom when it wasn't so long ago I was sitting in one. It makes me feel more like a peer than a teacher. It's really hard to resist joining in when the kids are fucking around. One of the kids fell off their chair the other day, and I couldn't compose myself for a good two minutes (everything is funnier if done by foreigners). The fat kids are funny too.
Also, inbetween lessons they have a 10 minute break. I have no idea why. They say to me "ok, you can have a rest now" then 8 minutes later a group of kids come in. How much of a rest is that? Another thing happened the other day that freaked me out. For some reason it reminded me of that episode of Futurama where they're watching the Flurnsball game and all this weird shit starts happening (like the giant bullant and whatnot) and Fry gets confused. Thats how I felt the other day when the Teacher's Assistant starts yelling at the kids, gets one to come out the front, and then the kid starts shouting out instructions. Then all the kids close their eyes, put their heads forward, rest their chins on their thumbs and start rubbing their eyelids and cheeks. Very bizarre. I'm told that this is 'face exercising', and every kid in China does it. Weird.
They also have a series of bells that go off. Some sound like what we think of as a doorbell sound, others are Beethoven (I guess) and others are jaunty little piano tunes, like a carnival.
Other than that, it's a lot like what you see as the North American standard in education. Think Degrassi but with more outside classes (and stairs! Argh!), and less grass. And a lot more kids that look like Yik.
The uniforms are cool though. Every primary school has a red bandanna around the neck,and most high schools have a Run DMC-style tracksuit as the winter uniform.
As far as teaching goes, I think I'm doing well. The kids all seem to like me, some even to the point of dangerous fascination. I walk around and all the kids say 'hello' or 'hello what is your name', and seem in awe that a being such as I should exist. One trick that is fun is to walk in wearing a beanie, then take it off to reveal BLONDISH HAIR! I did that to the junior middle school studets and they damn near applauded for shit's sake. I can understand that, at least, to some extent, but what was bizarre was when I took my jacket off. It's cold in the mornings but it gets warm early arvo, so I took my jacket off mid lesson and all the kids started making confused, shocked, amazed noises. Weird. I like the middle school kids though, because I can hold a semi-decent conversation with them. One girl (who looks amazingly like Victoria Orpin for being of Oriental decent) said to me, "some of my friends do think you look like English Football Player David Beckham". Well needless to say I gave that a giggle, then thought: Do Asians think all Europeans look the same? How racist!
Speaking of bizarre resemblances though, there's one stylish girl in grade 3 who looks like a younger, more tanned version of Chelsea Osborne. I'll have to get a picture so you can compare (if you know who I'm talking about).
Being (I guess) one of the very few white guys these kids have ever seen (outside of a zoo?) is a huge cause for fascination. I feel like a celebrity sometimes, which is bizarre to say the least. Today, even, all the grade 3 kids wanted me to write my name in their books. I won't say 'autograph', because that is just too fucking insane. Three kids in Junior also wanted my email address, and another girl wanted me to go through the zodiac with her and give her the proper pronounciations. Odd.
It's fun to teach a class and only hear them speak english. You begin to think that they speak english normally (because they never speak Mandarin to me) but then you hear them say some (to my foreign ears) gibberish to the teacher or eachother and think, "Wow, these kids are really smart".
All in all though, China is a pretty cool place, and although some things take getting used to (dirt, pollution, dust, not knowing shit about the language, the toilets), there's a lot of things that are light years ahead of the Coast (alcohol in convenience stores, things open past 9pm, reliable public transport, less fuckwits per capita). Oh and they also call the toilet the 'W.C.', which I think is really cool and should be introduced into Australia.
That's another thing, I think I've said 'Australia' more times in the last week than I have in my entire life. What a silly word it is.
Anyway, have fun. When you're biting into the skin of a freshly washed apple, spare a thought for those of us who can't. I do the same for you when I buy a Bacardi Breezer at the C-Store.
Bei Bei,
-Matto
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E-mail sent: Febuary 29th
Subject: Good Morning
Hi everyone,
How is everybody? I'm fine, thanks for asking.
Things are going well in China, same same so far. Found a bowling alley the other night, so that's going to be 'hit up' frequently if I've predicted the future correctly. This may come as a shock, but Chinese are actually really good bowlers.
We went to Hong Kong yesterday to get out visas sorted out. It was really cool, I had a lovely day. I saw the 'world famous' Peninsula Hotel (it was in a recent Bond movie - forget which one) and the 'world famous' GTIC builing, which is the most expensive building in the world. Which is surprising sorta, 'cause personally I think it looks hastily-drawn and shoddily made. We also rode the 'world famous' Star Ferry (I've never heard of it before, but Chris (a Canadian guy who likes magic tricks)) tells me it is indeed well-known across the world. It was ok... but really just a bigger version of the Kangaroo Point ferry I think. I also bought a digital camera, so expect to see some photos (and maybe even a soundless video?) later on - I need to get some shit together first though, give me a break.
Hey mum and dad- did you ever ride the Hill Tram or whatever it was? It was really fun. I think you would have shat your pants, mum, it was quite steep - 27 degrees at one stage!
At the top they had a Madame Taussauds(sp?) and a Ripley's Believe It Or Not. Both were too expensive, and quite frankly there were too many fat American/British tourists to want to hang around too much. They had stalls with some guy doing magic tricks up the top level so me and Chris just watched that all day.
There was, however, a wax figure of Benny Hill outside the Madame Taussaud's, so I got a photo with that.
Later on we went to a book store. It was good going back to a place where you could read everything and talk to everyone. It's surprising how much I miss buying a bottle of raspberry Fanta and saying a friendly 'howzitgoin' to the shopkeep. In China I'm effectively deaf and mute when not talking to people who can speak English.
But not only do the people speak English, they still retain the traditional Chinese friendliness and customer service skills, so that's really cool.
There was also a much greater diversity in the people - lots more westerners, and a shitload of Indians- and all of them tried to sell me a tailor made suit. 'Veddy veddy good suit for you sir, I make you a T-shirt too'. Pretty cool for a bit, but I was in a hurry.
It's also surprising to see how much Chinese culture has rubbed off on me - there's an HK$1500 (AU250 or something) fine for spitting and littering in HK - coming from overly filthy Guangzhou - where you're free to vomit in the gutter if that's your bag - this was a harder rule to adhere to than it looks.
But overall Hong Kong was cool. If you want China 'Safe' or China 'Lite' then I recommend it.
Other than that not much has been happening. Oh, I sung Leo Sayer's 'More Than I Can Say' on stage with an Oriental transvestite the other night, and I won a game of badminton against THREE Chinese middle-school girls.
These smokey internet cafes aren't the best place to sit down and write long emails, so sorry if you're disappointed with my effort.
Mum - finally picked up the package. Thanks for everything - the phrasebook has come in handy on several occasions already. Can I resend the box to Australia with stuff for you guys?
Anyway, hope you're all having fun. I've decided that I'm going to Thailand during the school holidays, so if anyone has any tips or things to pick up, thanks.
Chow bing ding row,
Mattch
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E-mail sent: March 7th
Subject: Good Morning
Hey hang
A month on, and China is the same as I'm treating it: Lovely, yet at the same time weary.
China is a lovely place. True, for all it's bad points, I can't say it's too rotten.
It's often referred to as a 'developing' place - which couldn't be more correct. It has nice roads, yet the drivers are all shit. If you want a prostitute, just walk down to the Garden Hotel - but if it's a titty mag you want, well, prepare to be stuffed - you won't get anywhere. What I'm trying to say is,here is there double standards here are sorta weird.
As a precursor (even though I'e already written ap opening paragrpah), I'd lke you all to know that I'm writing this while under the effect of many pints of the finest Chinese beer. But I digress...
I've met many fine people here, from all over the world - yet only a few Australians, and in passing at that. The more New Zealanders I meet, though, it appears to me that Australia has even less going for it. As mush as it guilts me to say it, I don't really miss Australia - purely as a geographical destination - that much. The people though, of course I miss At least, that is, my friends, my family -I think that covers you all. I miss you a great deal - if you all moved to China I'd be a happy dude. I guess that can't happen though.
If you get the chance though, well, please come to China. I'd be glad to show you the sights and the sounds (the smells are all shit here) about town. Guangzhou has a quaint charm about it, sort of like Nambour. But if you thought Petrie Creek was a bit on the scummy side, wait until you see the Pearl River.
Missing you all, but there's a lot to be distracted from it in China. That said: I've gotten used to the toilets; the food here is decent for the most part; and the girls all treat me as if I were Billy Cooney.
Keep it tight,
This maggot is out,
Mattchozilla
PS I like everyone's emails, even if I don't reply. Thanks.
PPS Brian, you're pretty funny
PPPS Mum/family - if you find a book by Stephen King called 'Different Seasons' - please send it to me. It might have ' Stand by Me' or 'The Shawshank Redemption' or 'Apt Pupil' on the cover, but if you read down the bottom it will probably say 'as Different Seasons' on it, or some such crap. Tah
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E-mail sent: March 15th
Subject: Thrush Hour 2
Hi everyone
Thought you might be interested, my Volcomstalker website got updated last night.
http://www.oocities.org/volcomstalker2000. Check it out for some reasons to hate Matt plus an extra bonus surprise (read the 'what's new' bit)
Not all that much has been happening. Went to the zoo the other day and saw two monkeys hump eachother for about 3 seconds. Eddie will be happy to learn that I also saw a camel do a shit.
There were pandas there, but we didn't see any! Apparently they were having a nap or something, I dunno. I felt ripped off anyway.
Went to this place that has imported goods, so that was cool. They had VB and Crownies that probably worked out cheaper here than there. Got some Milk Duds (nice), a Cherry 7-Up (cool) and an American Dr. Pepper (yay).
They don't have that here, you know. In fact they're pretty low on soft drinks, and the soft drinks they do have are sorta shitty. Even the Coke tastes a little funny (I think it's made with Chinese sugar or something... and it's carbonated too much). They also have lime Fanta (crappy), mint Sprite, and orange Sunkist with 'the BURNING sensation of GINGER!!!'. Generally, if it has sugar in it, the Chinese sort of stuff it up. Even a Chinese girl agrees with me that they can't do dessert for shit. But oh well, they do wonderful things with meat.
Speaking of which, I had an all you can eat meat buffet the other night. It was awesome, these guys come around with a chunk of meat on a stick and slice off however much you want. I doubt I've ever eaten so much meat in my life, let alone in China.
Then afterwards we went bowling and I won one game and came 2nd in the other two. But better than that, I got the hearty congratulations of an old Chinese man after getting two strikes in a row.
I bought a pair of Sony earphones tonight from a supermarket for only 12 RMB! That's about $2. They're really good, I'm listening to Ween at the moment. Thanks for making those CDs by the way Brian. Hi El Seriious.
Teaching's going well, I think. Haven't had any complaints so far, so I must be doing alright I guess.
Anyway, you're bored by now, so I better be off.
- Mighty Mattch
E-mail sent: March 30th
Subject: Chineasy Does It
Greetings, everybody.
How's life in the land I'm not in? Things here are fun. Every day is a new experience.
Yesterday, for example, the washing machine wouldn't work properly, so I had to wring my clothes out hunched over a bucket, like the old Italian lady I'm not.
It's been sorta chilly recently, which isn't good because I wanted to wash my jacket the other day, just as it began to chill up. Ah well, a few more days of stink never harmed anybody.
Had a nice weekend. Friday evening was an experience: I was invited by one of the Chinese teachers at one of my schools to join her and her cousins to play ping pong! You haven't played ping pong until you've played with a pro Chinese dude. You should have seen his trademark 'rotary serve', it was quite impressive. Everybody thought I was pretty good, if I may say so, and were certain that I was a professional player in my home country. They also taught me some hot table-tennis tips, so look out Team Ranger!
I even had a few games with the girl's mother, who would've had to have been over 50, but shit, she was quite the player. She was all over the arena, and could flog a ping-pong ball with the best of them. She also INSISTED on buying my water and dinner for the evening, so she's cool in my books.
Then later on we had a game of badminton, which was uneventful but fun.
On the way home I saw a cat squeezing out it's last breaths in the gutter, which wasn't a pleasant site, no. That's nothing compared to Chris though: he tells me he saw a body with it's leg ripped off after being hit by a bus. Disturbing.
Saturday though, a lot more shit happened. On Saturday afternoon I went shopping with a student from one of the schools I teach at (not actually my student, but he's damned good at English) and bought two rad T-shirts for 75 Yuan (AU$12 or abouts). But not only that, I got to witness an awesome Cantonese bargaining debate between my guide and the shopkeep. No-one lost face, but I almost lost a nipple when the T-shirt guy grabbed it to illustrate what I was doing to him. He asked if I was from Pakistan, and I asked him why he'd think that, and he said that all Pakistani people are stupid. His words, not mine.
He was a very vocal chap, and after I procured my pound of cloth he looked like a man in the quarter-time break of a rough game of footy. He was indeed a man of good character.
The shopping centre where it all took place was this cool, underground market sort of place. Bought The Passion Of The Christ on DVD (as it is Easter soon, and the chocolate here is shite) for about AU$1.50. After that, we went to a magic store to see a tall man perform magic tricks for free! He had this one trick where he cupped my Frenzal Rhomb T-shirt into his hand like they do with the handkerchiefs. Then he lit a ciggarette and put it out in his shirt-covered fist. But the magic didn't end there: he also left an unsightly singe mark on one of my better shirts. What a top trick!
There was lots of other, typical Chinese bizarreness items at the market. I was inches away from buying one figure imparticular: it was a flesh coloured Bart Simpson figure in a blue T-shirt, laying prostrate on a bench of some sort. His pants were down a little, allowing a small bird to nibble on his penis. He seemed to be enjoying it.
They also had several figures of a male and female pig engaged in various sexual positions. Awesome.
Later on in the afternoon I went to David's (A Canadian teacher-friend) house for a Chinese feast with some of his friends. It was really good! We had some prawns, and while they weren't as good as the ones from Woolies, I can guarantee they were fresher; they were still kicking when we boiled them! Ahh! I don't think I've ever seen a live prawn before. They're pretty ugly. I picked one up, having no idea they have the ability to flip like a tiddlywink. It scared the shit out of me when it decided to jump for my face.
We also had some fish, beef, chicken and brocolli and green veges. My 'Ball Chef' T-shirt was the toast of the party, and my Taiwan jokes were considered obscene and offensive. I had to clean the oily wok afterwards too, but that's not bad cause I like to help out.
After that I thought of going to bed, but I remembered Chris had invited me out to a few quiet drinks at the Elephant and Castle. The night was still alright for fighting indeed, at least for this young dickslip!
'Chris' turned out to be Chris, his girlfriend Kelly, Rich and Superman and a bunch of other people, and 'a few quiet drinks' turned out to be a booze-filled oddysey from one club to another, culminating in a barbeque feast somewhere near I live.
We started out catching a taxi to 'Babyface', a club that people must go to to forget they're in China, I guess. A ludicrous entry fee (30 RMB compared to the usual 0 RMB), heavily inflated bar prices, way too many fucksticks and music I wouldn't feel comfortable shitting to. 'twas like being back in the valley, but with less kebabs.
We were all disappointed with that little adventure, so we went off to some other club, which was pretty cool. Nothing incredibly exciting happened, but the waitresses all wore tiny hot pants and occasionally danced on the tables! Yeah! Just when I thought my night couldn't get any better, two of the foxy waitstaff start having a fight!!! It reminded me of one of my sister's more violent tangos: fingernails were swiped, hair was pulled, and I'm sure many a Cantonese profanity was hurled. Richard, Andy and I were all witness to this incredible sight, and shared a 'what the fuck happened there?' look afterwards, I can assure you.
Then afterwards we went to this awesome street that was filled with barbeques. You walked up, waited for a lady to get you seats, and you sat down and give her an order, all under nature's ceiling. Luckily it wasn't raining.
We had chicken liver, lamb, other assorted meats, and mussels and oysters, both with close to a cement mixer's worth of crushed garlic. Never would such a magnificent concept be accepted in Australia, and it truly made me feel 'rad'.
After that we went home, and on Sunday I did little more than pissfart around.
Brian: bought Office Space today, completely flawless pirate DVD: it's cool.
Everybody else: I updated the website some (the 'stuff in China' part). Remoimber: http://www.oocities.org/mattchinchina. Sign the guestbook you crazy kids.
Can you dig it? Yes I can.
- Mort
PS, sorry this letter's so long, but it was written in two parts thanks to computer-related STUFF.
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