TURBO B20A ACCORD
SUSPENSION SHOP
Here's some gettin' down low pics after the ride was layed-up on jack stands all winter. The coil-over collars are not wound-down very much, in fact they can be spun another 2 to 2 1/2 inches lower or so.
Many thanks to Tom at Bec-Tech Suspension for making the coil-over/ strut combos front and rear. You can use your stock springs for this coil-over set-up, but the ride quality might lack a bit. Tom's working on a Purehonda coil-over kit group-buy for Accord owners right now.
Below are rear pics showing the Bec-Tech coil-over, S/T race spring, S/T rear sway bar, Brembo rotor, AEM pads.
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The Bec-Tech coil-over offers a 4 inch adjustability
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S/T race spring offers roughly a 1.9 inch drop
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Total potential drop is 6 inches
The rear strut bar is from a '90 Honda Accord. Had to modify the end-links (stretch it out) to make it fit. Something like OBX (brand), but not certain on that name though. Look for Justin (88turboaccord) to do a write-up on adding (modifying) a rear strut bar for the 3rd generation Accords. Typical...the aftermarket offers rear strut bars for the 4th generation Accord, but not for anything before 1990!
The front strut bar is from DC Sports. I kept the wrapping on it still as a reminder of how rare it is for the aftermarket to make parts for the 3rd gen Accord...but wait, this is only good for fuel-injected versions. Like I say, I'll keep the wrapping on it.
Front-End Re-build
Suspension components should be 'low maintenance', especially if properly maintained. However, the additional torque from wanting that 'raked' stance with lowering springs/coil-overs etc puts an added strain on suspension components. Good bet to find worn parts like: struts, upper and lower arm ball joints, rubber bushings in the front radius rod and lower front control arm, and CV joints. You know the sound...a loud clunking or rattling when going over bumps or clicking noise with cornering (mostly CV joint).
Parts
Under-frame was first stripped of all suspension components, then cleaned and painted. Left and right front hub assemblies were in pretty good shape, just needing some minor clean-up work. Third pic below shows the upper ball joint shield/upper knuckle. When replacing this upper ball joint (there's a lower ball joint on the hub as well), using a hammer and knocking them loose may be a bit better...sometimes using a pickle fork will destroy the rubber seal around the ball joint. Fourth pic is a shot of the (new) OEM Honda front A-arm and fork. Fifth pic shows the difference between right axles - JDM axle on top, and USDM axle on bottom (both the same length).
Build-up
The lower control arm goes on to allow mounting of the hub assembly. Second and third pics show what happens when a carriage-bolt loses it's spot weld and gets lost into the frame (had to literally drill to get the bolt back out). Fit the inner end of the axle into the tranny (right or left sides) before attaching the outer end of the axle to the hub assembly. Next, attach the hub assembly using the upper and lower ball joints.
Make sure the axle snaps into the tranny (spring clip will hold it in place).
Get the spring (damper) ready. You may or may not need a spring compressor to put the damper assembly together, depending on how short your coils are. Attach the fork to the lower control arm and top of the strut assembly to the strut tower. Next, attach the radius rod to both the lower control arm and front frame. Attach the front sway bar and steering linkage. Torque everything to spec.
