Audi A4 2.8 Quattro

I've wanted an Audi A4 ever since I set eyes on one in a spy photo many years ago. It's an absolutely gorgeous car, conservatively styled but chunky, aggressive and beautifully refined in all the right places. The thing is timeless; even three years into its model cycle, it looks far better than the cars it competes against&emdash;one of which, the BMW 3-series, has just been recently designed.

My test car, a 2.8-litre quattro model with the optional sports package, looked even better than most A4s, decked out in 16-inch tires, lowered half an inch, and sporting the brightest blue paint job I've seen in years&emdash;"pelican blue", as it's called, is one of four "cool shades" paint colors that really enliven the car's looks.

The A4's equally gorgeous inside, with a nicely designed, curving dash and well placed controls and instruments, all of which are backlit in red at night. The instrument cluster is more complete than on any other entry-level luxury car, and is marked out in a beautiful Frutiger typeface. All of the controls, from the high mounted radio to the big-screened automatic climate control, are easy to reach and intuitive.

Cloth&emdash;a "jacquard" pattern on sport models&emdash;is standard, and a lot better in this car than the optional leather. It feels appropriately luxurious and is grippy enough to hold you in place during even the hardest cornering. The seats are wonderfully comfortable, and feature adjustable lumbar supports for both the driver and front passenger, though the passenger's seat is manipulated manually rather than electrically. The rear seats are excellent as well, though head and legroom in back are at a premium.

Special mention should be made here of the steering wheel, which is the best-looking unit I've seen on any car of any price. It's a gorgeous, leather-wrapped piece with chrome, red, and black trim in a small three-spoke design that doesn't look like it could hold an airbag, though it does.

On the road, the A4 is supremely stable in all conditions, from tooling through rush-hour traffic to full-throttle back-roads barnstorming. With the lowered and tightened suspension, it corners flatly and its four-wheel drive gives the car an almost supernatural level of grip; you can charge through a corner at pretty much any speed you please and be in complete control. (Four-wheel drive, though, can easily breed overconfidence; once you pass the car's limits, you're probably in for a wild ride. I'm not brave enough.)

The revised 2.8-litre V6 now has thirty valves and feels decidedly stronger than the old twelve-valve unit. With 190 horsepower, it moves the A4 around confidently, though it never feels truly fast. It has a wonderful exhaust note, though, under full power, sort of a slightly muffled ripping sound that encourages you to charge through just one more gear before letting off. The clutch pedal is progressive and the gearshift is excellent, though not perfect&emdash;it's a little too rubbery for my taste. The brakes are powerful, though the pedal's a little bit mushy.

Still, the level of performance you're getting from the mechanical bits here can easily be had for thousands less than the almost $45,000 that my tester was optioned out to. A Subaru Legacy, lighter on its feet and with a similarly sophisticated AWD system, costs anywhere from $10,000 to $25,000 less. What you're paying for here is not extra performance, but cool touches that you can't get on lesser cars.

To wit: holding the key for a second in the lock position raises all windows and closes the sunroof in case you've forgotten. The trunk hinges open on hydraulic struts which don't intrude into the trunk space. The dome light fades in and out gradually rather than clicking on and off; the ashtray glides, rather than flops, open. Every little detail in the A4 is engineered beautifully, and you can see where every penny of the admittedly high price is being spent.

You can, however, have an A4 for a lot less than 45 grand, with a less-powerful (150 horsepower) 1.8-litre turbocharged model starting at roughly $32,000. It has the same beautifully designed interior, the same cool touches everywhere, but doesn't have wood trim (the aluminized plastic used inside and the blackout trim outside looks better than the wood and chrome in the 2.8 anyway.) With a significant weight savings over the V6 model, it never feels slow, and uses far less gas.

I'd take either of them, though, if I could afford them. If a thing of beauty is a joy forever, the A4 could be the car I ride off into the sunset. It's that gorgeous.

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