CrazyQuilt FAQ

Written by the members of CrazyQuilt and compiled by Dawn Smith with help from Phyllis Price and Anne Bergner

The FAQ now consists of five pages.

Crazy Quilt FAQ
CrazyQuilt Wearables FAQ
CrazyQuilt Vest FAQ
CrazyQuilt Book FAQ
CrazyQuilt Embellishment FAQ

Index of Questions

Wearables FAQ

The FAQ has grown, so I decided to put parts of it on seperate pages to shorten the download time. If you click on any of the following questions, you will go to the Wearables FAQ page.

What are some ideas for making jackets?
What are some ideas for making wedding gowns?
What are some ideas for making collars?
What are some ideas for making mittens?
What are some ideas for making doggie coats?
What are some ideas for making sweatshirts?
What are some ideas for making jewelry?
What are some ideas for making items made from ties?
What are some ideas for making skirts?
What are some ideas for making woolen scarves?
What are some ideas for making baby's and children's clothing?
What are some ideas for making dresses?
What are some ideas for making stocking caps?
What are some ideas for making cloaks and capes?
What are some ideas for making shirts?
What are some ideas for making jumpers?

Vest FAQ

What are some suggestions for basic construction and patterns?
What about sewing in the darts before building the CQ? Can that be done?
Is there an extra extra large size vest pattern that is ideal for a crazy quilt vest, or is there a pattern just for crazy quilting?
What are some suggestions for lining?
What type fabric is best for the vest back?
What are some books with vest patterns?
What are some inspirational ideas for vests?
What are some ideas for jazzing up found vests?

Book FAQ

EmbellishmentFAQ

Return to Crazy Quilt Central

Answers to the FAQ questions.

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What magazine articles have you found helpful/inspirational for CQing?

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What web sites have pictures of CQ's?

Reflection in the Window Close-ups available
http://www.ntplx.net/~marsha/

antique quilt http://home.istar.ca/~pfashion/crazyqlt.htm
the more or less vest
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/deb_tilley/#vest

Crazy quilt teddy bear instructions
http://www.lifetimetv.com/tv/HANDMADE/new_season/9653d.html

Unknown: Victorian Crazy Quilt (has great close up and detail pictures)
http://206.204.3.133/dir_nii/atq_VicCra.html

A striking Victorian Crazy Quilt.
http://www.the-forum.com/textiles/crazy1.htm

A Bucilla book with a photo of the book cover with a fan pillow, a book mark, and a jar cover.
http://blackwoodhouse.com/bucilla/quilt.htm

Modern Art quilts
http://www.art.acad.emich.edu/alumni/mink/mink_exhibition.html

Carol Telfer Antiques
http://www.cyg.net/~btelfer/quilts.html

Machine Crazy quilt stitches
http://starflight.com/gbdesigns/crazy/crazy.htm

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Where can you find cq fabrics?

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A really GREAT source for nifty fabrics is an interior decorator shop or someplace like a paint store that has decorator fabric swatches. Some of these places actually throw the samples away when they have been discontinued! There are all kinds of beautiful hand-painted silks and imported dama sk and tapestries and......

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For the folks who are interested in locating cq scraps, try your local bridal wear shops. If they sew gowns on the premises, sometimes they are happy to find a home for their scraps. You might think the colors would all be white, ivory, cream, and ecru, but remember that these shops also provide garments for other members of the wedding party and often do prom dresses and other celebration garments also. You would not believe the wonderful rainbows! It's worth a call to see who's willing to part with their leftovers. There may not be any velvets, but it's still a start.

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Don't forget used clothing, either from one's own closet or the thrift store.That's how I've gotten most of my fabrics, often much more wonderful then anything I could buy at the store.(Phyllis)

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Thrift stores are great. I particularly look for those truly awful home made bridesmaid dresses with puffy sleeves and yards of fabric gathered into the skirts. When I take to them with the scissors I can't help thinking that the poor girl who had to wear the thing probably felt like doing the same. I am shameless about going up to complete strangers at craft markets and asking for their scraps. There is a great local market I go to where I sell my own stuff, and promote my classes, and there are a couple of stall holders there I get scraps from. One makes lovely little girls dresses with pretty florals and Liberty type fabrics; the other is a young woman who makes fitted waiscoats in brocades and lovely slinky stuff in crushed velvet. They both quite happily gave me bags of scraps when I showed them what I was doing. Also I have a neighbour who makes wedding dresses from home, and she sends me her scraps. I always make the person who gives me scraps a small cq project as a gift. Apart from being good manners, it has the ulterior motive of reminding them that I am still around and would welcome any more scraps in the future! (Hilary Metcalf)

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Can different weight fabrics work together?

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What are some of the fabrics you use for backing?

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Did someone mention interfacing? I haven't tried that, but think I will some time, as I wonder if it might help with the weight problem (in this instance i mean the finished piece, not mine!) one sometimes has with finished pieces. (Phyllis)

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How do you prepare fancy fabrics for CQ? esp. the thrift store and other found stuffs?

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I wash most fabrics in the washer - if they fall apart I don't want to use them in my projects. Would rather find out before using them rather than after...(Lori Melberg )

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How small is too small as far as fabric bits go?

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I think that proportion is the key here. When I have pieced larged one-piece items, like a floor pillow or the exercise mat, the pieces can be very large indeed, much bigger, for example, than for an 8 inch square. (Phyllis)

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What methods can be used to store fabric, embellishments, projects?

My guess is that fabric storage is a constant bugabear for most CQ'ers. See-through containers help a lot, but I never have enough of them. I store a lot of fabric in the boxes that oranges come in.They have nice slide-over tops and I like the order of having several boxes of the same shape/size. I label the boxes according to colours or type. If I've worked out combinations that really go well together, I'll often leave these together in a box too. One year I took a small sample of all of the larger pieces that I had and put them together in a shoe box. That became my palette, and when I wanted to work out a possible combination, I could do it from my sample box rather than going through all the larger boxes.I've let that system slip in the past year but should go back to it because it helped a lot.

For floss I use those plastic, compartmentalized sheets that fit in 3-ring binders and are made expressly for that purpose (sort of like the sheets for slides.) And I find the tip from Daddy's Ties of rolling one's ties around cardboard tubes (I like the long ones from wrapping paper) works well for me. (Phyllis, Nova SCotia)

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My largepieces (2 yds or more) I store in the hanging sweater thingys that have 6-8 shelves. I have these in closets and on racks hanging over many of our doors. Smaller pieces (less than 2yds but more than about 12" square) are in the hanging thingys for shoes. The have clear "pockets" on either side, about 15-20 of them. I fold and roll up the fabric and put in pockets according to color. Can fit 2-4 rolls in each pocket depending on what type of fabric it is. Then I have smallest bits (less than 12" square) sorted by color (reds, blues, greens, yellow, black/browns and oddballs) each in their own "shelf" in one of those plastic wheeled bins. Quilts in the works are stored in plastic see thru, snap top boxes along with everything needed to finish them.

Buttons are in antique cookie tins. Zippers & patches have their own baskets (stackable on a shelf). Ribbons and laces are wrapped onto 3x5 notecards and in their own baskets (stackable too). Little oddball embelishments are in those floss carriers (made for x-stitchers) and larger oddballs are in their own wicker baskets sorted by size and any other characteristics I can pick out (but later normally cannot remember what went where, so size is the big "sorting factor"). Magazines are 3-hole punched and in large binders waiting for me to finish catagorizing them. They are seperated according to crafts, sewing, quilting, etc. Sewing patterns are in milk crates stacked open end out on shelves, loosely arranged according to size of pattern and M/F.

Ummm, what else... thread is on thread racks and in fishing boxes. Needles, thimbles, transfer pens, thread snips, extra bobbins (I keep even dmc thread on sm bobbins -can wind them on the machine quickly -makes easy to toss the right colors into my box that I am working on and keeps them from tangling), pins and other odds-n-ends in my great-grandmothers sewing box.

Sorry this is getting so long all. To sum up, I try to keep everything in view. When I store things in containers I cannot see into then I never use it. It took me a very long time to get "organized" but the time has been saved many times over in not having to search for that piece of fabric I knew was here somewhere! Christina Cronauer (Suffolk, England)

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According to the textile people here who make seat covers for cars and campers.

1. Plastic bags, containers, etc. - no problem BUT the fabric must be able to breath and protect against acid and insects. They recommend lining the bottom and the top with acid free tissue and leaving a sachet in the box or bag.

2. All other containers, ie. paper, wood, steel, cardboard. Protect against excess moisture and apply above precautions for insects.

3. Separate colors and fabrics, ie. natural vs. synthetic.

Sharon (dskill @ bright.net)

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On the storage of finished quilts: In a class I took at a local quilting store, they recommended storing a unused quilt in a king or queen-sized cotton pillowcase. Take the quilt out 3 or 4 times a year and change the way it is folded. I have 2 quilts my grandmother made for me, each stored in a pillowcase and then stored in my cedar chest. Someday, I hope to have a hanging location for at least one at a time, but for now, they are stored away. (Claudia Smith, northern California.)

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On storage: I get hand-me-down clothes from my sister's kids for my kids. She sends them to me in large cardboard boxes. I sort the clothes by size, but one time there were too many of one size to fit in a box, so I put about half of them in a plastic bag. Maybe a year or two later I got them out. The clothes in the box were fine; the clothes stored in a plastic bag had rust-colored spots all over them. I wouldn't recommend plastic. (Lynne Redderson, Torrance, Ca)

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I have two wooden dressers (tall) like that go with bedroom sets that I store most of my fabrics and fibers in. I also have a ceder chest, in which I wrap then store my best lace, etc. I also just inherited a lovely, huge oak two drawer chest, which is perfect for larger quilts and table clothes because the drawers are quite deep and wide.

I have my beads in a plastic box, and buttons in old bail wire top mason jars.

I also have stacks of the old fashioned milk crates which I keep "current" fabric projects in as well.

Old wooden dressers, if you have somewhere to put them, and easily found at garage sales and auctions for quite little money. I don't particularly care what they look like on the outside, I'm just looking for safe storage for all my loads of *stuff* (Dee Stark, Rochester, NY)

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My fabric is stashed in boxes in my dining room. I use a system I saw on "Sewing with Nancy" before I pull out specific colour boxes . I took a small square of each piece of fabric and trimmed them to the size of a photo slide (rotary cutter work). Then I purchased some plastic slide storage pages - the pages fit into a 3 ring binder and each page holds at least 25 samples. I must admit it takes some time to get the system going but it has been most helpful. When I start a new project I flip through the binder for colour ideas and matches, then I work on finding the actual fabrics to play around with. (Dawn, in Hamilton Ontario)

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Get yourself one of those fold-up laundry driers and hang your cq fabrics on it. It works great. Tiny pieces can be put in ziploc bags and clothespinned on. (Joan in southern Ontario).

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I would love to be able to store everything from large cards of threads, to the tiniest bead, all in one container that I can carry anywhere I wish to go.

I have one of those zipper bags that has lots of plastic envelops in it. I got mine from Nancy's Notions. Judith Montano called these bags "worm bags" because fisherman use them for bait containers. I keep most of my threads in the worm bag. I also have a tin of silk embroidery threads. Then I have a plastic "bobbin" box of ribbons and threads. That's about it. when I go someplace I sort through and choose colors to take. what I take fits in one of those round drawstring sewing kits that has pockets around the side and a pin cushion in the center. It works. (Orinda, Montana)

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My beads are now in clear film containers (Fuji Film comes in these containers) and the containersare placed in two large plastic food storage bags so I can see them clearly.

Buttons are divided by color in small storage bags, then put in one large storage bag.

Laces are wound around two large cardboards and placed in another storage bag. (Sally in Cincinnati)

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Altho I haven't tried this myself yet, the next time I'm in Wal-Mart, I want to look at the shot gun shell storage cases. I've heard that they are the perfect size to store the metallic spools. (Julie Hocking in San Diego, CA)

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I keep my current project in a big shoulder bag, with plastic zip-locks holding different color threads, beads etc. When I decide what I want on a certain cquilt square, I put the fabric andembellishments together in a big zip0lock bag. Of course, I may have more than one "current" bag going at one time......or more than two...three.... I also have some little storage drawers from spare parts at work, like you'd get for nuts and bolts. Only these are bright blue and free. I keep beads sorted in little baggies, clear plastic boxes, etc sorted in drawers for color. I can put rubber bands to hold the drawers closed if I want to take the whole little cabinet with me.

My fabric is boxed according to color families (when it hasn't run wild all over the living room.) I know I'd love to see an organized set up of little swatches to tell me where a particular fabric is, or remind me what I have, but I know I wouldn't get that done. Anyway, I enjoy the sensual pleasure of plunging arm deep into boxes of fabric looking for something wonderful. Anne (Eabergles@aol.com)

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NeedleArts Magazine (of EGA) recently had an article on threads and storage. You're doing the right thing! This article said that one of the worst things you can do with your fibers is wind them on a card. Where the fiber bends to go around the card is where it wears first, bending, and sometimes fading. This was discovered because of old stashes of silk and other fibers found with antique embroideries. I could never give up the stitching time to wrap all my floss on those little cards. I vote for the Ziploc Veggie bags with the little holes to let the fibers breathe. (Lynne Redderson)

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Right now I'm storing trims and charms in FlossAway bags. They're like snack size ziplock bags with a hole punched above the zipper and you store them on a big binder ring. You could make your own easily. I have a bead jar thingy for the beads. Since I don't have much of a cq stash yet this works for now. I have given up thinking that I'll ever have the complete stash of anything all in one place, never mind carry it around with me, so I settle for just having the current project in a gallon ziplock bag. (Elizabeth Barter)

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A friend of my MIL's is an operating room nurse. When they do certain types of heart surgery they get some of what they use in large (20 x 17 x 8) blue plastic boxes with a see thru top with several holes in it. The nurse said that they do about 8 procedures a day and just throw away the boxes. So if you all know anyone who works in a hospital, they may be able to get these for you. They are great for storage especially with the air holes already in the top.(Leslie in Tampa, Fl)

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Can you crazy quilt directly on backing and batting, and make squares of CQ?

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What are the various methods of piecing and why would one prefer one type over another?

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I do the stitch and flip - prefer that as most can be done by maching & that is more secure stitching than by hand. Also you can turn under the edges and use your hand embelishments to hold the fabrics down. I'm sure there are other methods, but can't think of them now (Lori Melberg )

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Nancy Zieman has a method for crazy quilting similar to log cabin piecing on her web page. It offers an alternative to the flip and sew method. The URL is [http://www.nancysnotions.com/SewingRoomLibrary/CrazyPiecing.html ](Dawn Smith)

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How do you stop yourself from trapping yourself in an L when patching, and what are some ways to get out of it gracefully?

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What is the best seam allowance to use?

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How does one cope with thick velvet seams?

2) Sew with 1/4 inch seam but cut away to 1/8th

3) Finger press seam and then use glue stick to "nail it down" to the foundation (I like this one!) It will not reduce bulk but it will keep the seam flat.

4) Lay the velvet piece down and then overlap other fabrics on top so that there will only be 1 layer of velvet fabric. Trying to avoid two velvets together.

5) Go ahead and crush the darn stuff and then embellish over it with lace, couch a golden cord over it etc. 6) Butt two pieces of velvet together and zig zag stitch them together. Maybe using a fray check type solution on the raw edges.

7) When embellishing with stitching be certain to keep the thread loose (not flappy loose but not tight). Use large simple stitches such as the feather or chevron stitch. Maybe a thicker embroidery thread or several strands might help also. (Rose)

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How do you emboss velvet?

Embossed velvet is very expensive, costing up to $50 a yard. Using this great technique will save you money and allow you to make beautiful table runners and pillows. Here are a few techniques to emboss velvet.

Rubber Stamp Technique
1. Use roller to apply light coat of fabric paint to rubber stamp with fleur de lis design.
2. Press rubber stamp on surface of velvet. Stamp until entire surface is covered.
3. Let paint dry.

Iron Heavy Cardboard
1. Cut 30 free-hand triangles from heavy cardboard.
2. To make embossing plate, glue triangles on square heavy cardboard in desirable design.
3. Place 1 square of velvet (pile side down) over embossing plate.
4. Spray velvet with medium coat of starch, using hand to press starch foam into velvet.
5. Press velvet, making sure iron rests on triangles so that the pattern imprints on nap side. Let velvet cool.

Hot Coil
1. Bend armature wire into coil.
2. Spray wrong side of square with spray starch, smoothing foam with hand.
3. Lay velvet on protected surface nap side up and lay coil on velvet, positioning it slightly off center.
4. Press hot iron on coil to create indentation on velvet, applying pressure until embossing is achieved.

Velvet embossed (?) with rubber stamps

I noticed this mentioned in the last couple of days on the list and today saw a demo on one of the crafts shows on H&G channel. Use rayon and/or silk velvet, she thought polyester etc. would not be effective with this technique. The first step is to mist the velvet to be manipulated well with water, then the rubber stamp is placed on the table with rubber side up, velvet is placed on the rubber right-side to the rubber. The wrong side of the velvet is then pressed for about 15 seconds (you would, of course, have to experiment on time, temperature of iron, etc.) with an iron on wool setting. Her examples all had the stamped design showing a very noticeably lighter shade of the velvet color. It seemed to be a very nice effect - on TV. The demonstrator was named, I think, Mary O'Neil and has written a book on the technique called "Hot Potatoes". Sorry I can't remember the name of the program but the host is Susan Powell. (Pat in KC)

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If you want to make it even more awesome, use embossing ink and then sprinkle embossing power of your choice on and heat. You will then have Velvet with a raised embossed design on it. Embossing ink can be purchased in any craft store that sells rubber stamp supplies. It is a clear ink and will not distort the color of the embossing powder you use.

When you emboss on fabric you use a stamp and stamp on the right side of the fabric and then sprinkle the embossing powder on right away. Let sit for a minute or two and then shake off the excess powder. You can use a regular heat tool, that is made for embossing or you can use your Iron, and just hold it above the fabric and the heat will penatrate the powder and harden it and give a raised design. It takes alittle longer with the iron, but it can be done. I strongly suggest you do a test on a smaller piece of fabric, mainly to see if it can take the amount of heat needed to turn the powder into a solid.

This last fall there was a demo on one of the craft shows, showing this tech. I am really sorry, I cannot remember which show it was on.

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What tools are useful in doing CQ?

I am always amazed at people who can embroider without a hoop. I can do some stiches without a hoop but even they tend to look better when done with a hoop. And I can't do french knots without a hoop. The hoop acts almost like a spare hand and lets me see/compare the line of stiches I am working on.

Actually, I have a collection of hoops I use depending on what I am working on. Which hoop depends in part on the project size. I try to pick a hoop that includes all the design area to be embroidered as well as letting me easily reach the center of the design. If it is a really big project, I will work the center first using a small hoop & then the edges using a bigger hoop. I do it that way because I think that hoops (and irons) tend to crush the embroidery stiches decreasing the attractiveness of the embroidery.

The other consideration is type of project, that depends on what I am working on. For CQ I generally use a pcb plastic hoop (the hoop has snap on clips and comes in 8, 11, & 17 inch sizes tho I have only been able to find the 11 and 17). It will hold the fabric firmly in place and is light weight. Because the sides are connected using separate pieces, I can take my laundry basket system which uses the same type/diameter pieces apart and create a free standing quilting frame. Most of my blocks are smaller than the largest frame (13 1/2 inches) but I cut the ground 18" square so that I can just leave the block on the frame. When I am not working on the block it hangs on a section of my wall in the living room as a piece of art work in progress. That way I can look at it all I like. Actually, that also helps me decide what type of stich and color and type of thread to use. I get to see the block in several types of light so know where the interest is needed to perk up an area.

Then I have a set of blue plastic hoops which tighten with a screw. I mostly use them for embroidering things other than CQ because I think they tend to leave marks that are hard to get out of the block. They come in a lot of sizes but my favorites are 4" and 6" ovals and a 6" round. I like the ovals because they tend to include an entire design while still giving me close access to the center of the design.

I also have a couple antique hoops. One is tin (i think) with a cork liner and a latch spring to tighten. I like really well but the metal oxides fast and transfers to my fingers so that I tend to leave grey finger prints on the fabric. Am seriously considering using a spray shellac to seal metal.

Then I have 3 or 4 cheap wood frames with screw tensions. These are the kind that cost you a buck or two depending on size. They tend to be really rough so that you would worry about snagging them on fabric if used as they come. But I wrap mine with athletic/first aid tape. It smooths them out and the tape helps keep slick fabric from sliding out of the hoop.

And finally, I recently bought myself a spring tension hoop. The tension is not as fine as it would be with a screw but for several layers of cloth (i.e., quilting) I figured it would work. Haven't had a chance to try it yet.

Well, that is kind of a long answer to what was a short question. Guess I feel about hoops the way some people feel about thimbles... ;) (Naomi L. Lacy)

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What projects can be made out of CQ?

Okay, here's the list I came up with to answer the question "What projects can be made out of CQ?" To answer this I primarily went through the responses to the survey many of us did previously. (For those of you who might want to still respond, get from archive "CrazyQuilt Digest for 24 Jan 1997"). I scanned a number of other digests for other thoughts, and also included ideas people had for projects that they hadn't yet done but hoped to someday. Due to repetition I haven't credited any specific individual for ideas. Sorry. And if I've missed any, please add to the list. (Phyllis Price) quilts (Yes, I am including the obvious!) ranging from miniature doll quilts (5" x 7") to king sized)
wall hangings
Christmas stockings
Christmas tree skirts
Christmas wreathes
Christmas gift bags
sewing pouches
chatelaines
needle holders
vests
wedding dresses
jackets
Christmas tree ornaments
sachets
sections of clothing (eg. bodices, collars, pockets, cuffs)
picture frames
landscape pictures
doll clothes
capes
scarfs
tea cozies
soft jewellery (pendants, brooches)
exercise mats
eye glass cases
pin cushions
pillows (heart shaped; rectangular; floor-sized)
baby bibs
treasure bags
card bags (such as those used to hold cards at wedding anniversary parties)
basket lid tops
coasters and trivets
pot holders
toys (teddy bears, roosters)
CQ blocks cut into shapes and appliqued onto clothing
stocking caps
purses and bags (eveing bags, clutch purses, tote bags)
book covers (removable)

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What are some other considerations when making wearable crazy quilt projects?

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What is a memory quilt? How do they differ from other CQ?

In my mind what distinguishes a memory quilt from other kinds of CQ'ing is that there are special memories either attatched to the construction materials or specific memories are evoked when the quilt is viewed. That was also my main motivation for keeping a journal with this project, so that if it is handed down those memories will be kept and explained. (dee)

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The memory quilts that I have seen have all been made in memory of a deceased person. They incorporated fabric from clothing the person had worn/loved, bits of jewelry and even photos of them. But you could certainly make a memory quilt for someone going off to college, getting married, etc. to commemorate the transition from one stage of life to the next. As opposed to a "regular" CQ, which to my mind, would just be made out of stuff you liked no matter where it came from. (Beth)

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What catalogs are available?

The company's focus is quilting, and the main part of the catalogue focuses on books at reduced prices. I only see one that focuses exclusively on CQ (Diana Leone's Crazy with Cotton) but they carry many others that have lots of relevance (Victorian Quilt block designs(Jodie Davis), Kumiko Sudo's Fabled Flowers, Judith Montano's SRE video and lots, lots more.) They also carry some hard to find quilting supplies. (Carolyn McCray)

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Evening Star Designs
http://www.needlearts.com/evening_star/index.htm
e-mail address : evening.star.designs@worldnet.att.net

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Handy Hands
577 N. 1800 E
Paxton, IL 60957
217/379-3976

You can send a self-addressed stamped envelope to receive a catalog of tatting supplies. They sell the tatting video, which includes how to needle tat instructions, a tatting needle and 2 yards of thread to get started.Their catalog includes many books, for both needle and shuttle tatting, and also many types of threads to use. They also have a list of beads for

tatting, that have a hole that fits the thread properly. (Carolyn McCray and Julie Hocking)

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Keepsake Quilting
Rte. 25B, POB 1618
Centre Harbor, NH 03226
Phone: 1-800-865-9458

Their catalog is free. The one I'm looking at is labeled "Almost Spring 1997" and has 127 pages of fabric, books, notions-- lots of color photos--great fun. (Jennifer Wood)

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Joanne's Creative Notions Plus
PO Box 44030
370 Main Street
Brampton, Ont
L6V 4H5
Phone: 1-800-811-6611 (24 hours) or 905-453-1805
e-mail address : joannes@istar.ca

Good Canadian source for various sewing notions and accessories, pressing supplies including needle boards for velvet), radio and cotton machinery treads, designer threads for couching, quilting supplies, etc. US residents can save 35% off prices due to exchange rate. (Phyllis)

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Very Victorian Notions Fax orders: 303-393-8357
P.O. Box 18-M
Denver, CO 80218

Holly, the owner, bought out Judith Baker Montano's mailorder business. .(Nancy in MI)

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The Magic Needle Fax orders: 207-793-8469
RR 2 Box 172 Telephone orders: 207-793-8273
Limerick, ME 04048-9615

Besides a catalog ($2), they have a newsletter and a swatch club. There are a few embellishing ideas in each newsletter.(Nancy in MI)

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