CrazyQuilt Vest FAQ
Written by the members of CrazyQuilt and compiled by Elizabeth Barter and Dawn Smith.
The FAQ now consists of five pages.
CrazyQuilt FAQ
CrazyQuilt Wearables FAQ
CrazyQuilt Vest FAQ
CrazyQuilt Book FAQ
CrazyQuilt Embellishment FAQ
Index of Questions
Answers to the FAQ questions.
(Rose Petersen)
I would recommend getting the Judith Montano's book first. Then
get a
very thin piece of fabric (I used an old worn sheet) and, using the
vest
pattern, cut a large square from which you can cut the vest when the
material has been crazy quilted. I used velvets, satins, taffeta,
even a
bit of fine corduroy. Once all the material has been put on, I
used a
combination of flip and sew and applique. Oh I do have a good tip!
Be
certain, if you are going to embroider a bird or complicated
something
that you do it on a separate piece and when it is done, _then_
attach it.
What I do is on my sheet of plain fabric I draw in a rough sketch
where
the cutting lines are to be so I will know where I want to place
something
like a fan or fancy embroidery... When I did my first one, I
waited until
it was ready for embellishments before I embroidered something
difficult.
I sure wish I could have had the luxury of thowing out the mistakes and
starting over. I did a blue heron (as in J. Montano's book) right on the
assembled CQ material.
When making the embelishments make sure you go over the rough sketch of you vest pattern because sometimes you need to adjust things a bit so give a bit to spare. Then simply lay out your vest pattern and cut. After I cut the pattern out, I "stay stitch" around the whole thing to prevent any messing up of the embroidery.
When I did mine I didn't realise that usually the back is not embellished and I did the back as well. It is neat and unique because of that. There is a fan that spans the bottom back that is really wonderful and my DIL is so pleased. This was my fist CQ project and I was really hooked. I missed it so much I am in process of making a small wall hanging of the same materials and it looks similar.
(Orinda Spence)
I really appreciate Rose's directions. If I plan like that, the plans fall
by the wayside somewhere along the path, so my approach is much looser.
Which just goes to show how diverse this whole thing is.
I cut out my vest backing using new muslin, a little larger than I want the vest to be. I plan only the color or colors, start from a corner or a shoulder and begin flipping, sewing and appliqueing. When one side is covered I sort of plan the next side to be balanced but not symmetric. When both sides are covered with crazy piecing, I start putting lace and braid on it. One piece of lace takes on a life of its own, goes on some seams and across other seam lines. It might even cover a glitch in your sewing, Then I do the hand embroidery, silk ribbon or otherwise until all the seams are covered with something, embroidery stitches, lace, ribbons, doilies, whatever. Then I bead, then put on the big stuff (embellishments).
(Dawn Smith)
I enjoyed Rose's and Orinda's vest instructions. One vest
suggestion I have is in case you intend to hand embroider your
vest. I like to use an embroidery hoop. When I made my first vest,
I cut the backing fabric the same size as the vest pattern. This
made it nearly impossible to use a hoop close to the edge. My next
vest I will trace around the pattern and cut about 3 inches bigger
so I can get a hoop on. The traced lines will be my guide for
patching and embellishing.
Another idea is to think about what colors your daughter wears. Take all of the scraps that you have that would go together and with the things she wears. If you coordinate the scraps and embellishments the vest will match many things she already owns. Orinda mentioned that she decides on what fabrics to use based more on color than anything else. I agree with that . I really didn't think about it too much until I got Carol Park's vest book and saw the crazy vests in it.
(Rose Petersen)
I had forgotten to say to leave plenty of room on the background fabric
because, even more impt. than using the hoop ( I don't) is that when you
are building the CQ and then embellishing it you will "eat" up some of
that background fabric. So when I make a trace mark on the background of
where I expect the vest to be cut out, I always add at least 3 inches
extra .... however I leave the background as a large square while working
on it, I do not cut the vest out until it is all done.
I find I don't need a hoop as the fabrics are stiff enough to hold up and
not pucker or anything. Except when doing a very fancy embroidery, then I
do it on a separate piece that is big enough to hold the hoop. usually.
I find the hoop interferes with the beads etc.
(Phyllis Price)
And Debbie, 15 vests!!!!!! Wow, I'm impressed! I bet that in that process
you've learned lots of things to do and not to do in vests. Any ideas you
want to share? I've got a question too. Do you make your vest lining a tiny
bit smaller (say, 1/4 on each seam) than the outside? I wondered if you did
that if the outside edge would roll a bit to the inside, and not make the
lining quite as visible. What do you think?
(Debbie Adams)
In answer to your questions: Since I've done so many vests I'm finding it
hard to make squares! Conditioned myself to do vest shapes :-)
Depending on the thickness or bulk of the vest, I will make the lining 1/8 to 1/4 smaller to get the top to roll. Grade and slash. Then edge stitch (I use a Bernina #10 foot) to get everything to sit flat. Sometimes I use piping around the front only if the cq-ing needs to be "framed" or if there are bulky seams at the edge. (Eg: denim & tapestry meets at front edge or arms). I have made a couple (in cottons because thats what the customer wanted) and the lining was the same size. A good pressing, grading & #10 foot made everything sit nicely.
One tip I could pass on (which works for me) I assemble the whole vest, embroider, stitch to lining, press and THEN go back to add beads, charms, buttons etc.
(Barbara )
I use a pattern I ordered from Keepsake Quilting in NH. It's called Plain Old
Vest and has patterns for a dartless vest in a range of sizes. Alson
directions for piecing in the sew and flip style. That got me started and
things took off from there. I use nonfusible interfacing as a foundation for
the piecing and try to keep in mind when planning if the person will dry
clean or wash the vest. Some of the fancier stuff just won't survive the
washing machine.
(Diana Keener)
Hi, I am fairly new to this list. I'm enjoying reading it and get so
inspired by the creativity. I have a question. I want to make a CQ vest
but I need to use a vest pattern that has a dart or princess seam (that
I can alter) since I'm not a B-cup like patterns are designed for. Has
anyone done this? How do you handle the crazy quilt pieces working
around the dart? Do you put the pieces together and then make the dart?
(Debbie Adams)
Try this: on a muslin base mark on both RS and WS where the darts will be
located. On the front portion make your first "scrap" cover the dart area
that you've marked. Pinch it from behind to make sure that the first scrap
is big enough and won't disappear when the dart is stitched. (And make sure
it's not a thick fabric scrap.) Build the vest front from the first scrap.
For a princess seam maybe you could cq on the portions that sit on the front edge and a complementary fabric on the portion that sits beside that,by the arm section? That would avoid a huge seam through the cq work. Just a thought.
(Dawn Smith)
I just finished a vest in wools similar to what Debbie describes
here. I used a small plaid wool for the back and sides (the by the
arm sections) Then for the middle fronts, I strip quilted different
wools. It looks really sharp. I'm sure crazy quilt would look just
as good. I plan to try one soon. I adapted the pattern from one
that had a fairly high dart. I just made a seam up to the shoulder
portion. It is like the one Nancy Zieman has.
(Orinda Spence)
Hi, I did sewed dart before sewing the vest. Good sized darts too. The
sort of disappeared as I pieced and by the time I embellished there was just
a roundedness that did not work. We ended up putting darts through the
crazy quilted parts, butting through them. It worked that way. I lost
a lot of the embroidery work that I had put on those places, so I would
piece and fit before doing any other work.
(Jill Chamber)
To add a thought for the Princess fittings....
Judith Montano shows in one of her books (I am not sure which one...) leaving
a couple of pieces hanging before you do the side seams, and then hand
tacking over the seams. So, sometimes the seam shows, and sometimes it
doesn't. I would think that that method would work for a princess seam as
well, or even for a dart.
(Sandy Wheeler) How about marking the dart on the foundation, piecing up to the line but not into the dart itself. Then sew in the dart and cover the raw edges.
(Cathi Mc) I've used interfacing as foundation for CQ vests lots of times. Works like a charm. But, buy the mid-to-heavy weight, nonfusible of course.
(Jessie Gettliffe) I spent yesterday happily sewing, trying the instructions for CQ that are posted on Nancy's Notions webpage as "Crazy Piecing with decorative stitches" at http://www.nancysnotions.com/SewingRoomLibrary/Library.html
It was actually very relaxing, with very few decisions to make. The end result was great! I highly recommend this technique, at least for beginners like me. A great way to use up scraps.
It suggests using metallic threads, and has good directions on how to work with them. I also used some rayon thread, and it worked just as well.
(Debbie Adams)
From my experience ANY pattern will do! However, if it has darts, you may
want to allow for an extra wide/long "scrap" piece of the dart area so when
it comes time to sew up the dart, the design won't be altered.
(Rosemary Teghtmeyer)
In Eleanor Burns Recycled Treasures from Grandma's Attic book there is
a vest pattern for crazy quilt. The pattern piece that comes along for
the front, which is crazy quilt, I cut it into 2 sections. Then made
copies of these 2 sections and did it as foundation piecing. A neat
thing about this is too, you can draw additional lines on the separate
pieces to make additional divisions.
(Sally Chrisma)
For the query about the large size vest, look in the Simplicity pattern
book. There are two good vests that can be used, I think they go up to
size 34.
(Holly Sullivan)
Got a question regarding crazy quilt vests - I want to make myself one. Am
I safe in assuming that piecing it the usual CP way, on a muslin
foundation, and then lining it, would be the way to go? Or has anyone
just let the muslin foundation be the lining?? It gets warm here in San
Diego and the fewer layers of fabric the better.. I don't want to be stuck
wearing my vest in the winter only. All comments welcome. Thanks!! :-)
(Cathi Mc)
I suppose you could leave the muslin foundation on a vest "unlined" and
just bind the edges of the vest. However, your stitching would all
show. Maybe rather than leaving it unlined you could find a cooler
lining fabric. The ones made of synthetic fibers tend to be hot
fabrics, so perhaps a light weight fabric like batiste or silk would be
cooler. Besides--if you're wearing it to the office in the summer
you've got air conditioning, and if you're not working--who's dressing
up in California in the summer? :-D
(Kathleen Awalrye)
I've used a cotton as an lining, something like a hoffman batik,etc.
something that matches my color scheme on the front of the vest,then it is
not too hot and it could be a reversible vest
(Julie Sharron)
Before I knew you were supposed to use a muslin foundation I happily
stitched all my pieces together, used a stabilizer for the machine
embroidery and for holding the buttons secure. After the piecing and
embroidery was complete I drew the pattern on the fabric, stitched
around it and cut it out. I lined the vest with muslin and used a
complimentary fabric on the back of the vest. So far it has worked
out ok and is great for our Texas weather. Not too warm for the 100+ days.
(Priscilla Schrock)
On the CQ garment I am currently playing with, I am sewing my foundation on
paper which I can remove. It has worked wonderfully and the CQ is very
light, without the bulk.
(Dawn Smith)
I'm getting back to work on my peach and taupe vest. I've decided that it's
not a good idea to patch one side and then embellish. From now on I'm going
to patch both sides. It's entirely too easy to do the embellishment of the
one side and then put it up. My vest has sat in UFO state for nearly a month
now. At one time someone mentioned cutting the lining 1/4" or so smaller than
the outer fabric to keep the lining from showing. I don't think this info got
in to the FAQ or if it did, I missed it. Is it 1/4" all around or would more
be better?
I got Deborah Brunner's Crazy Rags from inter-library loan this week and I'm all fired up to make vests! She mentions that she lines the back of the vests with an extra layer of muslin to keep the weights similar to the front. Has anyone done this? I know we talked about keeping the linings to a minimum because of the heat, but my black vest rides up in the back. I'm thinking of trying it.
(Jan Thompson)
Dawn, when I saw your note I just had to reply quickly...I too am making
a peach vest. Actually I saw the peach vest in the Crazy Raggs book and
just had to have one. We had a christmas crazy patch swap in a group
I'm in on Prodigy and I ask for all peach stuff. Well my dear friend
Debra sent me enough peach for a complete outfit:) I have one side of
the vest embelished and then it sat for quite awhile. Now I'm in the
mood again, like you:) Actually the project started out as a jacket but
I decided it was too much so I just never made the sleeves. I tend to
agree that the jackets and vests are a little blocky. I just used a
commercial vest for mine too.
However, I was also in a white/cream/ecru fabric and embelishment swap
and got so many nice pieces that I made 12 blocks and embelished them
before I realized that I haddn't a clue how to finish them. Now I think
I will use the Crazy Raggs book again and make the Kimono type jacket.
It will work perfectlly with the squares that I made.
Sorry for rambeling...just got excited:)
(Susan Pribil)
I am getting ready to crazy quilt a vest in all white with pastel
embellishments for Easter. I have heard some people say that ready to wear
vests with satin backs look cheap. It does save a lot of time to only quilt
the fronts--what does everyone think--I guess the back would look better
quilted--I just wanted to get some opinions before I definitely decided.
(Debbie Adams)
I made a very similar vest, in shades of white/ecru, etc. On the back I
made a "V" of crazy quilting and for the rest of the back I used one of the
cotton fabrics that I used in the quilting part. I didn't let the "V"
section go down too far because I didn't want the beads & buttons to get
snagged on a chair back.
I left large "chunks" of fabric at the shoulders on the front CQ part and then stitched the foundation pieces together at the shoulders. I wrapped the CQ pieces over the shoulder seams and embellished. I found it made the CQ flow nicley to back.
(Rose Petersen) I don't think the satin backs look cheap. In fact I would think in CQ it is a good idea as the embellishments can get crushed, broken etc. if one is sitting back wearing a vest. I did my first (and only) CQ vest all over, as I didn't know about satin backs...I hadn't noticed and vests weren't as popular as they are now. It looks opulent and splendid and I am glad I did as it is really a work of art even more than a piece of clothing. But when I do one again, it will have a satin back.
I was wondering in the case of the Easter vest mentioned in this post, what about a special back, made of something other than satin, but not CQ.... I don't know what but I bet that would be nice. Something with texture or white on white (cream on cream?) Something that would go with and compliment the CQ. Just an idea...
(Orinda Spence)
A friend and I made a lot of embellished vests,
http://www.ibb.com/fancy.htm There is one there. We finally decided that
our vests deserved silk. There is nothing cheap looking about silk and
often with the right resource it is not that expensive. We liked 12 mamme
weight China (habotai) the best. Sometimes we used colors and sometimes I
dyed sort of splotchty to get what we liked. We lined the vest and used it
for a back. The 12 mamme required nothing by an interfacing between the
vest and the lining.
(Dee Stark)
I think that a CQ in all pastels for Easter sounds very pretty! I
don't agree, that the satin backs look cheap, but if you are
concerned about that, what about using a silk or satin brocade? That
gives it a bit of textural interest and a bit of a different look.
(Danny F. Jackson (right name?)
Hi! I agree with the satin question. . .but why not just use a plain
cotton fabric that complements the quilting? Say a solid that picks up
one of the main colors?
(Stella Archibald)
If you are not sure about satin maybe a white or pastel moire?
(Jill Chamber)
Well, I think that it depends on the vest - some of the ones with a satin
backing do look cheap - but mostly because the fabric that they used for the
backing is the wrong weight, so the best won't hang right.
I think that a blank back would be more practical for a crazy quilt vest. With all the embellishing, I would think that you would have to be a perfect lady and never have your back hit the chair, or you'll either goof up the back, or have embellishment impressions in your skin.
I made my sister a pieced vest - not crazy quilted. One side of it was pieced, and the other was a single fabric. Since the single fabric was GORGEOUS (my sister picked it out!) - the look was fine. However, the vest didn't want to hang straight, because one side was heavier than the other. So, I took it apart and put fusible interfacing on the non-pieced fabric. worked like a champ.
My advice - pick a fabric that looks good with what you want to do, same richness, and a good weight. If you do a good job, I don't think it will look cheap - and it will be much more comfortable to wear.
(June Slattery)
I sometimes use a dress weight bengaline for the lining and back of a CQ
vest,it has a nice lustre and doesn't look cheap and is less obtrusive
than satin lining.
(Judie Nelson)
I saw a vest in a magazine of ecru tone fabrics crazy quilted with pastel
stitches. The vest also had embroidery motifs all over it as though they
had used pieces of old pillowcases. Lace had been added here and there and
some small white or ecru button. Very pretty!
(Dawn Smith)
When I made my vest in blacks, I was sure I would use satin
on the back. It has several satin patches on the front, so I
figured it would look great. When I tried it - it didn't look good
at all. It took away from the front. I wound up using a semi-shiny
cotton-poly blend. It looks great. Sometimes I think even if we
plan ahead that trial and error is the best method.
(Barbara)
I use a pattern I ordered from Keepsake Quilting in NH. It's called Plain Old Vest and has
patterns for a dartless vest in a range of sizes. Also directions for piecing in the sew and
flip style. That got me started and things took off from there. I use nonfusible interfacing
as a foundation for the piecing and try to keep in mind when planning if the person will
dry clean or wash the vest. Some of the fancier stuff just won't survive the washing
machine.
(Phyllis Price)
On the subject of vest, I bought a great book the other day: MAKE YOUR OWN
GREAT VESTS: 90 Ways to Jazz Up Your Wardrobe, by Carol Parks, Altamont
Press (1995.) It shows a number of lovely CQ vests, but also provides a lot
of other inspiration for using fabric in interesting ways. Plus lots of
good tips for the general sewing and finishing of vests.
(Dawn Smith)
Loretta: How did you enlarge the pattern? Did you use the grid
method? I am on a search for the perfect vest pattern. I just
bought another one this week. McCalls 7276. I've been looking for
one with a higher neckline. I think I have five or six patterns.
All of them OK, but not great.
(Loretta (last name?)
My book came with a set of patterns. I use it and just cut the front button
overlap a little bigger (I like a solid overlap) and squared off the corners
a bit more on front edge top and bottom. I have also added elastic to the
back for some people I've sewn for (those with a tiny waist). My pattern
came with both adult and child sizes and I must admit I've only sewn the
adult sizes. They are pretty generous. I did make one child's vest but she
was only a size 3 toddler so I just took a bodice pattern I had on hand and
"created a vest. It worked great too.
(Susie Ragan)
To all of you searching for that perfect vest pattern, I'm very happy with
the patterns in Carol Doak's book of reversible foundation pieced vests.
There are three styles included, with five sizes of each and everyone I've
made one for has loved it - even those of us who are *fluffy*.
(Dorothy Backlund)
I just finished making Phillip Pepper's Butterfly vest. I used this book and
pattern. Turned out fantastic. This can be found at Patchwork Place
(Barbara)
Latest vest was all black for my daughter. I used silks, cottons, polys, some
assorted laces, old and new. Some of the laces I mounted over cream colored
lining fabric to show off the pattern. Some of the plainer bits of fabric
were embroidered with my Pfaff 7570 using black thread. The back used a large
(9"x12") motif attached to the cream lining and covered with black bridal
tulle. Decorative stitching was by machine and also in black.
The biggest thing about these vests is to relax and have fun. It's a very
liberating technique.
(Beth Laverty)
My current "crazy quilt" project is not a quilt but a vest. I am doing a vest
in the crazy quilt style out of wool sweaters I have felted. I learned the
technique in a past issue of Threads.
(Linda S. Stimson)
Now to an update on my vest.
I am using the block method for the vest. I crazy quilted 7" by 7"
squares, cut to size (5" x 5"), and then sewed them together to form the two
fronts and back. To make it easy math, I used the small 5X 5 size square --
hence 54 of them. I have the squares done for one side and the back.
Almost there! I am using the method that is featured in Deborah Brunner's
book, Crazy Rags. From there I am applying silk ribbon embroidery, buttons,
beads and on and on. I am also putting cq on the back as well even though
there is the concern about stuff being on the back -- I just can't help myself.
As I am rather fluffy, I have a lot of cq-ing to do. That means however that I can really experiment and try out stitches that I have not done before. Really excited about this. I am also not letting the blocks be my border. I am trying to go from block to block with some of my stitching.
(Lgaschler@aol.com - name?) I made cq vests for my sisters from old linens which had been in the family for years. I used a kind of compact lace for the back and finished the edges using seams great. Just sewed it on and turned it under. They looked great.
(Phyllis Price)
DAWN: I realized when I was piecing my woolen vest that you had asked me
what kind of thread I would use for the embroidery, and I didn't tell you.
Well, my plans are to use a Persian crewel yarn, but only because I have it
on hand. if i didn't I would use any kind of wool, such as a knitting
worsted.
As I said, I DID piece the vest using fairly light woollen flannels, and it looks pretty good. Pieces are larger than when I've done fancy vests, around 10 pieces per side. I haven't taken it any farther yet, because as I was doing it I realized the same woolens and the same concept would make a fantastic scarf, and since both the materials and the cutting board were out, well, you know the rest.... So, last night I experimented. A feather stitch looked too fancy for the woollens, a blanket looked fine, but in the end I decided to just overcast all the seams with a whip stitch. I used various colours of yarn, but it I had had enough of any one colour (probably cream) I would have done it like that. ANd by the time I get that bit of experimenting done, I should have decided what I will do to finish off the vest!
I'm in the last stages of my woollen CQ vest tonight. In the end I decided NOT to use any stitching at all around the pieces, but will blanket stitch the vest edges when pieced together. I appliqued a small (around 6") folk-art looking reindeer. with yarn feather stitch antlers, on the bottom one side of the front. It looks pretty cool!
(Dawn Smith)
Great minds must think alike. I've been thinking of doing a vest in
wools too. Not that it's been cold here in Arkansas. We've had
record warm weather. I actually had to use the air conditioner in
my car yesterday! I like the idea of putting primitive applique on
the vest. Will you put the appliques on individual patches or over
several patches? Most of the wools I have are plaids, so I need to
look for some solids. I think I will include some velveteen that I
have and maybe courdoroy too. What type thread do you plan to use
for embroidery? I tend not to like wearing "fussy" clothes either.
Another vest I've been thinking about trying uses cotton plaids in browns for the cq. It has snowmen appliques done privitive style on the fronts. The appliques were done over the cq as if it were a solid piece. I don't know where I saw this, but it was really cute.
(Eileen Ostrowsky)
About 4 years ago I entered a pink and yellow crazy quilted vest made from
silk ties and embellished with silk ribbon in the local quilt show and won
2nd place (small show) in the garment category, but I have been hooked on
silk ribbon embroidery ever since. From men's vests and jackets
--embellished and altered only slightly for my straight up chunky frame --
to blouses and shirts, I have now been doing more embroidered garments from
scratch. I got Deborah Brunner' Crazy Rags book and love her module
techniques and ideas giving a more contemporary appearance.
My current favorite project (of many underway!) was started today -- a black and gold wild animal print vest for a friend, using the Crazy Rags approach. My friend is a button collector so she'll pick out her own doodads for it.
(Jessie Gettlif)
I finished a pink and cream CQ vest this weekend, using materials that I
received in the Pastel CQ swap.
It was quite difficult deciding when I had done enough embellishment, so
finally I stopped where I was comfortable, and left it for a day.
When I came back, I had had some time to think about Nancy, the person it
was for. I wear pink twice a year, and lace once a decade. She wears pink
and lace and ruffles and bows almost every day.
So I went into my stash for beads, lace, and pearl buttons, and added about
50% more embellishment - now it finally says "Nancy" rather than me.
Thanks for all the great swap fabrics, the laces, and the cream flower
motif that one of you included. You helped me stretch outside my usual
style.
(Jennifer Wood)
I just have to tell you about my CQ vest! I've only done a little CQ
before, though I've done a ton of other sewing and embroidery. I got a
surprise birthday gift of some wonderful fancy fabrics for CQ, and I have a
very new computerized sewing machine (Viking Rose) --so, I was inspired to
make myself a vest!
I used all the fancy fabrics-- olive green satin, deep purple velveteen, purple/rose florals, bright lime green velvet, and more fancies from my stash. Then I used metallic threads and machine decorative stitching on all the seams. Prior to getting my new machine, I didn't have any machine decorative stitches--so this is a first for me! It was fun, and fast.
Then, I got out the silk ribbon I've had for a while but have been too intimidated to try. On the front, I did a nice floral bouquet of chrysanthemum and daisies (and a sprinkle of French knot fantasy buds). And I did a great ribbon bow tacked down with floss French knots. And off to the side, I did a shimmery spider web out of metallic thread. On the back, I did a large tree with various green ribbons for leaves and seed beads for flowers. Then, up on the shoulder is a dragon fly, with organdy ribbon for the wings.
I liberally sprinkled some colorful beads all over, and I'm making a small clutch to match.
I know this is pretty ho-hum to the experienced CQ'ers on this list, but I'm just doing the final touches to close up the lining, and I'm so happy with the way it's turned out and amazed at how fast it went together. I just had to gloat over my success and share this with you!
(Dian Crayne)
I had to haul some stuff out of our garage because of flooding, and found
two wool suit vests that DH has outgrown (just like a teenager, except
that he's growing out instead of up!). They fit ME, so I'm appliquing
funky designs on them to wear with slacks. This gets me right into the
quilting part of it instead of having to take time to make the vest.
(Julie Hocking)
Men's vests (from suits) can often be bought at thrift stores - cheap.
I bought one, and then created 3 cq patches, complete with embellishments,
and then sewed the patches onto the vest. I suppose if I change my mind
someday, I can remove the patches from the vest and attach them somewhere
else.
(Karen Young)
What a great idea! I also, recently purchased a vest from a thrift store. I
had just gone in to check out what treasures they had, and spotted this vest
displayed high up on a self. The vest was black and it was covered with buttons.
I couldn't get a close look but the buttons looked real interesting. I asked
about it and was told it was a display and they would take my name and phone me.
I picked up the vest last week. There were 37 buttons on the vest and all but three were metal. Most of the buttons are very unusual. I had bought the vest specifically for the buttons, but now I will keep it and make cq patches for the two front panels. The vest was hand made in a good weight of black satin and completely lined in the same fabric. Thank you for the idea.
(Jill Chamber)
Mary Mulari has some books that look at embellishing men's vests. One of her
ideas shows a handkerchief insert, fancy buttons, and earring used as
decorations - you can then make several and change the look.
I tried the couching and ultrasuede appliques from her book and it looks really sharp. Also, the men's vests have inside and outside pockets, which is great for work, carrying around beeper and badge (entry card).
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Last updated April 9, 1998.
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