PARIS

Sept 2003
 Paris is glorious. The most refined and best preserved architecture I've ever seen in a large metropolis. The fact that the first thing I saw on getting to my hotel was a young boy being savagely beaten by policemen only slightly detracted from my feeling at the end of the week that this is an amazing place - warts and all. On the whole I did not find the French especially ill-mannered but then I have the twin benefits of being Western and used to having my plates thrown down on the table in Hong Kong.

Indeed by the end of the week I felt I understood a bit of that Parisian arrogance (don't deny it)...surely growing up in this temple to perfection might make you think others are heathens and not to be troubled with!



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musée du Louvre
Musée d'Orsay



Published
Feb 2004
Sarah and I reserved a tiny 70 Euro a night hotel room right in the Bastille. Almost any neighborhood around the central Seine is a good location and within a long walk of the major sites.

This is the Colonne de Juillet (July Column) a memorial to the revolutions of 1830 and 1848. By the way, don't go looking for the prison at Bastille - it's long gone. Loving the ubiquitous Smart Car?

The day before Sarah arrived I wandered aimlessly and just let myself be amazed as I learned my way around. I think this is the Marais but cannot remember the name of the building. Marais is named after the marsh that was drained to build the ritsy neighborhood centuries ago. Even though the majority of the Jewish population was ousted during Nazi occupation, it is still a fairly bustling Jewish community and I had some fantasic food there with Kim, a friend from Hong Kong who was in town for a fashion show - ooh la la. The Marais is also the center of the gay community but I didn't have time to explore.
I then walked over the Seine's famous bridges toward Ile St. Louis, one of two islands on this part of the river.
Unfortunately this is as close as I got to the Notre Dame on the Ile de la Cite.
Also on the Ile de la Cite is the Gothic cathedral Sainte Chapelle. Built in only three years the amazingly delicate structure was consecrated in 1248.
The original stained glass windows of Sainte Chapelle depict biblical scenes commissioned by Louis IX.
The Jardin du Luxembourg is a 25 hectare garden Napoleon dedicated to Paris' children. This is the Franco-Italian Palais du Luxembourg and the Fontaine des Medicis. The day was bright and sunny so the park was packed with sunbathers - I don't know that I've ever seen the leathery cleavage of so many women over 70!
After Sarah arrived from London we headed to the museums. Next to the Louvre is the Hotel de Ville which serves as the city hall. The facade is decorated with 108 statues of noteworthy Parisians but I didn't read off the names!
The Musee du Louvre is enormous! Don't let that intimidate you though - some preplanning is a wise idea as some collections are closed on particular days and the fact is you cannot possibly see it all in a day anyway.
Inside the Louvre I made it a point not to take photos since it is so easy to annoy others but here in Napoleon's Apartments I couldn't help myself. I have to confess to another first time, terrible misbehavior...we touched the corner of one of the velvet chairs - softer than fur!
On the Louvre's balcony there is a sweet little cafe if you're prepared to pay 4 Euros for a tea!
I never knew I was a 19th century girl until I entered the Musee d'Orsay! I fell in love with Manet, Caillebotte and Toulouse-Lautrec in a way you can only do in person.

Again I avoided taking photographs in the galleries so you'll have to be satisfied with the original train station's clock.

The d'Orsay's balcony provides a great view across the Seine to the Jardin des Tuileries.
The Tour Eiffel is a beautiful structure but if you have limited time in Paris I would recommend avoiding the crowds and touts at the actual tower.
We also had dinner with my friends Marco and Moira and their pal Julian at the Cafe du Commerce. Beware if you are meeting someone here as there is a place down the street called Cafe des Commerce!
On my last day in Paris Sarah and I made our way up Paris' only real hill, MontMartre. This is the Basilique du Sacre Coeur which was only made in 1919. The steps down from the basilica are the highlight - what a gorgeous view! I must have been out of film because I didn't get a picture!