MYANMAR (BURMA)

April 2006
Myanmar lies between Thailand and India and that fact is plain to see in its architecture and people. I went during the Water Festival, Burmese New Year and the hottest month of the year and was treated to an unusual trip.

It's history since the 1948 end of British colonial rule has been one of isolation but evidence of a rich past is everywhere. The capitol of Yangon particularly is incredibly mixed, Bamar (the ethnic majority), Indian, Nepali, Shan, Mon (Hmong) etc. English is pretty common and the service is fantastic! However, the poverty is profound. Since the US enforces sanctions of any trade or financial dealings, so do many other countries and you will not find a McDonald's anywhere...quite a relief you might think but you will also find no foreign banks or credit card facilties...and you can forget your mobile!

It was a hard decision to go to Myanmar. I have not wanted to support the oppressive government which still press gangs its people into labor and imprisons elected leaders without cause. But you can now quite easily travel without spending on government hotels or transport and I am convinced that the way to change is through exposing average citizens to the outside - with all the good and bad that brings. Bring non-political magazines and English learning materials! Some friends in Hong Kong donated 3 film cameras which I brought with me and donated to the Maharsi Meditation Center in Yangon.

If you do travel there try to keep your plans flexible. Internal flights generally cannot be purchased outside Myanmar (Yangon-Bagan ~USD80, Bagan-Mandalay ~USD40, Mandalay-Yangon ~USD90). Even hotels which say they can accept credit cards may not be able to process your card on the day you need them to so bring plenty of cash. You must change your money in the market or at shops such as jewelery dealers (1USD=~1,300 kyat [chat])! Bring a torch as there are daily brownouts everywhere and some temples with lovely paintings are without electricity. I felt reasonably safe the whole time, excluding one day on a lonely road with some drunken revellers!



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Myanmar Links >
Bagan Hotel
Kyaw Hotel Bagan
Green Elephant Restaurant Bagan
Guest Care Hotel Yangon
Traders Hotel Shangi-La Yangon
The Strand Hotel Yangon



Published
April 2006
Bagan Hotel was my first stop in Old Bagan. It's well worth the USD55 I paid per night. But be warned they may not be able to take your credit card...I only found out later and ended up having to pay cash and became suddenly poor! They may also try to charge your card at USD100=EU100! I moved to a great USD10 a night place in New Bagan called Kyaw Hotel.
This is an old cart and puppet at the Bagan Hotel - I believe he's a nat, a god of Bamar animism.
During my stay all of Myanmar was getting wet for the Water Festival (like Thailand's Songkran). At first I tried to avoid it but on my first long bike ride in midday temperatures in the 40's I grew to love it and look for stands like this.
I spent about three days touring the temples on the plain at Bagan. I took loads of pictures but will try to limit them to a few here so temple fatigue doesn't set in!
Because of the holiday, most of the people visiting Bagan were Burmese. I met a family from Yangon and the young husband agreed it was beautiful but he also said "So many temples, so much praying" with a half-laugh. Buddhists in Myanmar believe one should pray at each major Buddha image they pass...I'm sure it could lead to long days!
Many of the visitors were also monks and nuns. There seems to be a large percent of the population who have taken vows. I suppose the religious would say it's a symbol of the people's devout belief but I think it may have more to do with an escape from poverty. Monks are treated with a great deal of respect, do not pay for most things, and are given alms daily. But maybe I became jaded after I got hit on by a monk for the third time.
Here is my horse cart driver in a lively discussion on the week's lottery. Horse carts are about K4,000 for a half day so I guess he was betting on his earnings.
Like Siem Reap in Cambodia (location of Angkor Wat), Bagan is a huge area filled with temples built over several centuries (11th C - 13th C).
A number of people wanted me to take their picture or wanted to have their picture taken with me. Here I am soaking wet from the festival, obliging.
This is one of the smaller temples that my friend Mariette recommended.
This is the view of the Ayeyarwady River from the Green Elephant restaurant in New Bagan. I had lunch with a British man who's father lived in Burma in the 1930's working for a British petroleum company. Chris had seen pictures of the era when oil bubbled to the surface of the river sands and there were more oil dereks than Texas (maybe)!
This is Nyuang U, the town with Bagan's airport - I'm having a drink and working up courage to bicycle the 90 minutes back to Bagan with nearly flat tires!
Since I became prematurely poor and was unable to make it to Mandalay, I headed back to Yangon. Fortunately the Traders Hotel there can accept credit careds and charges them through at kind of back door at 4% service charge.

There are some beautiful parts of the city and the Shwedagon Paya (pagoda) is definitely the center. This was Burmese New Year day when families make pilgrimages to temples for special prayer. And of course you need to eat and shop along the way!

The best time of the day to visit Shwedagon is at dusk!
Eating...
Along one of downtown's main streets is Sule Paya...not every city has 2,000 year old traffic circles!
Haircut?
Longyis in the market. Almost all men and women in Myanmar wear these traditional sarongs. If you are a woman traveling to Myanmar, please do not wear things that show your knees or shoulders...your comfort is not worth being that rude!
In the market I found this great grafitti! I also saw a fair few people wearing Che Guevara t-shirts!

Those who know me know I love to shop. I didn't find much to buy in Burma though...I think Mandalay was the missing link!

Food in Myanmar is quite good! This street side stall is selling Indian samosas and other fried bits. A lot of Myanmar food is curry and noodles but none particularly hot - I loved the pork curry with black soy bean paste.