Splendid Syria and the Lebanon.

$1 US = about 48 Syrian pounds

Wednesday 1st to Saturday 4th October 1997
Hotel; Al Rabe Hotel (none)
Room Type: 3 beds (about 150 Syrian pounds)
Verdict: Fine. We did not actually end up staying here as we knew someone in Damascus but the courtyard seemed pleasant. We have been warned however about the bed bugs!

Damascus
Old Citadel
Visit the souqs in the old citadel for some browsing and fun. The gaudy clothes, especially the pink meringue wedding dresses are worth a try as well as the belly dancing costumes (for the girls that is). Check out the cerise pink padded bras if you feel a bit brash.
We enjoyed exploring and just taking time to get lost among the narrow windy backstreets with houses overhanging the lanes. It is a beautiful and intriguing wander. You come across craft industries, woodwork, intricate silver and gold metalwork and seamstresses who will all let you watch their prowess of skill. The spice and food stalls are also worth a browse.
Then get the map out to visit the Muslim and Christian places of interest; Al Azem palace, Oymmaad mosque and St Pauls church to name but a few. Old Damascus has a lot to offer and you will find new excitement every time you venture betwixt the ancient walls. Check out all the old American cars here they look so out of place! The ice-cream parlor where they churn home-made ice-cream is superb.

Transport
Taxis outside the walls will try to rip you off. Avoid rush hour as the demand for transport is high and you have no bargaining power to reduce their exhorbident asking prices.

The bus station to the north is about 3 km. north of the Citadel past the large stadium.

THE LEBANON
Beirut
Our friend in Damascus took us over by car to the Lebanon for day. Unfortunately I cannot advise the best method of transport if going independently. The visa into the country costs $17 and can be obtained at the border. It is quite expensive here but the change in buildings and way of life is astounding. Mansions, some bombed out, line the mountain roads from Syria to Beirut. The capital itself is a mixture of torn apart old blocks and plush new appartment blocks and buildings.

Jetti Caves
I highly recommend visiting Le Grotte de Jeite. Splendid stalagmites and stalactites cling to the huge mountain caverns in the upper caves. The lower caves are accessible by boat and the lighting is superb. A wonderful place, like a fantastic dream.

SYRIA AGAIN
Sunday 5th October 1997
Hotel; Zabat-Al-Kalish, Aleppo
Room Type: Bed sharing, no room (very cheap)
Verdict: Bearable. We were crammed into a bed that a couple kindly let us have. Accommodation is not easy to find nor cheap here. Beds are available but the price, cleanliness and location differ enormously. Leave aside time to wander to get the best.

Aleppo
A kitsch local bus the 300km north to Aleppo takes 5 hours and costs a mere 60SE.
While looking for a suitable hotel we found it difficult to find our way around Aleppo and got lost. After finding your feet walk through the old Souqs to The Citadel a majestic white stone affair. Inside some areas have been renewed but mostly debris and strewn stones scatter the spacious grounds. The view over the city is wonderful. Check out al the satellite dishes on rooftops below!
A guy at the hotel brought a group of us girls to the local women's' Syrian baths. Big mama washed our hair and body with local caustic soap and a large scrubbing mitten. It was rough as she tried to scrape off the mysterious freckles on our arms but we were clean and shinny afterwards and relaxed in the steam room. This option was quite cheap (about $1), but you can decide to go to the more plush Turkish baths which is neater, white tiled and probably much more 'proper'.

Monday 4th October 1997
Hotel; Al Nasser Rabid Hotel, Homs
Room Type: Two beds and a mattress (450 SP in total)
Verdict: Clean. Beware of extra charges for using the shower etc. Bargain hard. There is a great kitchen area in which you can make tea, eat buns from the bakery around the corner and relax in the spacious foyer area. The owner fancies himself as a shrewd business man but will kindly bring out a map and point out areas of note in Homs and all over Syria.

Hama
Visit Hama on the way to Homs. We were in a hurry so did not have time.

Homs
A walk through the bright town passed the clock tower is lovely. Beware of being ripped off in banks while exchanging money. The bus station towards the north is where you can get a minibus to Craic des Chevaliers. Purchase food stuffs from bakeries on the way to the bus station for the day ahead.

Craic des Chevaliers
60km west of Homs stands this impressive and intact stronghold of old. Castle of the Knights or Qala at al Hosn in Arabic was built in the 12th century by the Crusaders. Well worth a visit with its' spectacular view over surrounding countryside.

Tuesday 7th October 1997
Hotel; Omayaad Palace Hotel, Palmyra
Room Type: The floor in the reception area (arrived in late; 100 SP each)
Verdict: Clean, better and more comfortable if we had got a room

Palmyra
The magnificent ruins of Palmyra make the impressive Jerash in Jordan look like a playground. Two days would be just enough time to explore. Unfortunately we only had one day here so we did not have the opportunity to climb 45 minutes up to the citadel which watches serenely over the deserted ruins from the pages of a fairytale. The citadel is a fantastic vantage point for sunrise or sunset. Be careful of getting locked in here as the gates are locked promptly at 7.30pm. and dogs roam the eerie lanes at night. The hire of a local knowledgeable guide to get to the tower-like tombs is advisable. Timetables of local buses out of here vary.

Thursday 9th October 1997
Hotel; Horrible backstreet kip (no name)
Room Type: 3 beds, loads of bedbugs.
Verdict: Horrendous, but we had no option getting in too late again as we are seriously stuck for time.

BOSRA
The black basalt town of Bosra is a sleepy quiet day break on the way back south to the border into Jordan. Bargain hard with the many minibus and taxi drivers you will have to get to get to the border. They search every millimeter of cars and baggage at the border. Foreigners are not scrutinized too much though.

Returning to Jordan
Thursday 9th to Saturday 11th October 1997
Hotel; Farah Hotel
Room Type: 4 bedded room (3.5JD each for a room - it was raining)
Verdict: BLISS Amman again. Yom Kippur in Israel and all is quiet.

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