© 2002 Will
The Details: Plenty of worthwhile routes, really simple access, and tends to be quieter than many of the ‘name’ crags. Catch the Wind is one of the best lines in the entire Blue Mountains.
Access: 2min drive from Mt Vic, then a 5min walk.
Described L to R, facing the cliff.
* Giggles 27m 16 (OS)
Quite sustained but no real hard moves. Some nice layback moves up initial wide corner, then traverse out L past BB to line of BB. A couple of reachy moves but mostly positive holds up the steep sheer wall until some slopers protect the final slab. Stick a wire in the crack for your 2nd then traverse R to DRB. Rap.
** Taipan (Variant) 40m 17 (OS)
Great climbing on the first pitch and great exposure on the second. 1) (** 25m 17) Boulder hop and chimney to ledge below FdL. Good cam at feet level round on the face, then step around above it to gain crack on face. Bomber wire, then sustained climbing up the face, past less obvious wire placements. Belay on sloping ledge (#0.5 - 1 friends, big wire). 2) (* 15m 16) Head out L to orange rock. Up overhung flake, then traverse L using holds under roof or on the lip. Look down! Step back R and heave up final groove.
* Fer De Lance 30m 18 (OS)
Tough work! Gain ledge below obvious orange corner. Front-on jam to loose stump, then committing laybacks bring a stemming stance to hand. Continue to insecure stance under roof, then the climbing eases as you traverse left under roof to belay. Very good.
* Catweazel 10m 21 (TR)
More like 22. The nice arete, with the hardest moves being past the second bolt. Either crimp down on the face, or suss the holds around the arete - and crimp away!
* ? 15m 23 (TR)
The steep airy arete high above C. Approach up FdL. Up jagged crack, and step R to recess. Crawl in, then stand up to good sidepull round corner (airy!!). Crux past FH, with spaced crimps on the arete, and undercut feet. Poor left foot next to FH gains break, and jugs to DBB.
Groovie 30m 12 (OS, 1st half)
Recess just L of C. Blocks to great big hex, then to #3 cam in short crack. Progressively stretchy chimneying with feet in crack, finally hauling out on jugs to ledge. Either traverse off L along ledge, or pull hard move into laybacking (ledge fall potential).
* Van 25m 16 (OS)
The middle (and cleanest) crack off the elevated ledge. 1) (* 25m 16) Doddle to overhang, then tricky to an insecure stance on lip. Nice crack moves and great wires all the way to DRB. Rap off, or 2) (19m 16?) Crack and overhang above.
Rip 25m 14 (OS)
The L crack. A nice line but bland climbing. Tricky moves over initial overlap are protected only by microwires, then more thin moves to more small gear. The gear and holds get better from there.
The Mixture 47m 10 (OS)
Surprisingly enjoyable and on great rock. 1) (14m 9) Up the slab corner, plenty of gear. 2) (16m 10) Corner past some cams (bolts on L wall are off route!) then to #3-4 cam. Enjoyable chimneying leads up to tree. Walk down the other side, or 3) (15m 10?) Up wall.
** Dress Rehearsal Rag 12m 18 (OS)
1) (** 14m 18) A really good slab, with plenty of intriguing moves until the final jugs. 2) (20m 21) Looks good at the start, but haven't done.
* Disaster Area 12m 23 (TR)
A steep and sustained slab. The second clip would be desperate, but not dangerous. A good lesson in just how small a hold can be and still be useable!
* Fairy Tales 13m 16 (OS)
Thin and sustained! Ok #2 cam at start, then to thin clip of BB. Cruxy over bulge, thin up and past 2nd BB and surface wire to ledge.
*** Black Bart 40m 19 (OS)
A classic, charismatic route. Clip BB, then thin step L to arete and up to jugs. #2 friend, then a brilliant section up a concavity L of the arete, then great sections of climbing between good stances at every bolt, not letting up ‘til the very last move.
** Honey Dip 35m 13 (OS)
Great line, but somewhat spoilt by the booming hollow flakes. BB, then (crux) pull roof. Corner to roof, with some nice little moves along the way. Take cams to #4. Good traverse left at top.
Knot the Mumma 15m 20 (OS)
Against all logic, on this route difficulty is proportional to slabbiness! Nice jughauling off the deck, then slabbing out to FH. Great friction leads to stance at 2nd FH. Desperate moves on smears and peeny slopers and a hard clip, then hard again to jug at chains.
To see a photo of these routes, click here.
© 2002 Will