The S.G. Theater Area
The Established Problems
Intermission V0+, Keeping low, start at left end, using all features to traverse right and under large bulge.
Wig Flipper V1 X, Start out on lowest hold directly beneath the roof. Climb straight up and straight through the roof. Top out above.
The Classic V0 X, Start at bottom of "Soliloquy". Boulder up to horizontal, then right to large chickenhead jug. Top out.
Soliloquy V2, Near the center of the boulder, start with right hand in horizontal slot under the bulge, and with left hand on diagonal (slope=1) crimp about 2½ feet to left. Dyno to large horizontal three feet above.
Center Stage V2 X, Sit-down start from upside down triangular indent and right sidepull one foot down two feet right. Ascend to center "crack" using small crimp two thirds of the way up, then stretch to reach horizontal slightly to the right. Problem ends on the chickenhead jug above the horizontal. "X" Variation: Continue up to next large chickenhead and top out.
Slip & Slide V3 X, Sit-down start from upside down triangular indent w/left and right sidepull one foot down and two feet right. Grab decent sidepull sloper on bottom right hand corner of overhang, and left on small crimpy undercling under bottom left corner of this overhang. Without using aretes, reach or dyno up to the slippery horizontal. Finish on large chickenhead jug to left. "X" Variation: Top out.
Act One V3, Sit-down start from upside down triangular indent and right sidepull one foot down and two feet right. With right hand, feel for small sloper above and to the right (arete and all the good crimpy incut-cracks are off), and pull up and off it. Use sloper tops only, moving off of them and one challenging crimp up high and just left of the casual arete. Finish in large horizontal above the crimp.
Act Two V4, Same problem as "Act One", without the huge foothold at the base and without the large sloper.
2nd Intermission V0+, Start at right end of the prominent
horizontal. Traverse left until you can't traverse 'no more.
My brother James told me about The Theater about two years ago in 1997. Soon thereafter we both went together, with no spot pad, nor any bouldering ability to speak of. Just some trad climbing shoes and a bag of chalk around my waist.
The next year I spent many sunny afternoons bouldering there, and one of my goals became to "do that dyno", in reference to "Soliloquy V2". I tried for days. I slid my hand in the chalkbag, felt the chalk inside dry my sweaty fingers, and then leaned in towards the rock as I laid my torn hands on those holds. Picking my feet up and placing them on small features, I scanned the rock above and performed a mental excercise of all the intricacies of the upcoming movement. It was here, in my mind, where I first sent my dyno. (As Eric Horst has said, "the body cannot go where the mind hasn't first been.")
Looking at the rock once again I felt a rush in my chest that seemed to reach my hands and feet simultaneously. And then, I replicated my contrived sensation of sticking the move. I flew upwards, landed on the jug, and "did that dyno"!
Now when I boulder at The Theater it feels great to revisit a triumph.
If you know how it feels to climb like this, then get out here and climb!
When my brother and I found The Theatre, it took imagination to consider it worthy. Most of the holds were laden full of dirt chunks w/algae on top! I went to work with toothbrushes, sticks, and even my socks, to find all these hidden holds. Cleaned, these holds are nice.
I soon realized that this boulder was a palace of many unopened sequences and gems that I could polish for the first time ever. (FA's 1997 to 1999). The Original Crew consists of James Jacobson, Matthew Fitzgerald, and myself, Sean Whalley. Others have definately climbed the boulder in the past, and the problems previously climbed probably include 2nd Intermission, Wig Flipper and The Classic.
FOR DIRECTIONS AND MORE ON SLEEPING GIANT CLICK HERE.
"X" MEANS: A fall could be very severe. Not recommended.
Slip & Slide, V3