I had to shorten the length of the neck  and round off the corners.with a hack saw then sanded smooth.  (The corners of the neck piece  were cutting into my collar bones...very unpleasant!)  You can see in the "before and after" side view photos  just how much I had to alter the neck of the mask.  Also, note how more deep-set the lenses look on the "after" mask.


The Helmet
The mesh in the "grill work" (snout) of the mask and under the chin also needs replacing.  I used some plastic mesh that was destined for a deli case.  There are many meshy things that can be found in the larger DIY stores that will work, as well.

Lastly, I added a small computer  fan found at Radio Shack.  Very cheap...only ~$7-8 .  It's a 12 volt fan, but will run at 3/4 the output on a 9 volt battery. Mounted on the inside of the grill, it keeps the mask from fogging up as much......and the cool breeze of fresh air is an added plus.

If the DP Standard Vader mask fits you or your budget, you will need to do some, ahhhh, "special modifications" to it so that you can do important things like SEE!
The lenses that come with the helmet are a horrible impediment to your vision (and look too "bug-eyed".) Get rid of them!  I picked up some cheap sunglasses and popped out the lenses.  They were the perfect shape to use as replacements.  I  enlarged the eye holes of the mask with a file out so that they were a bit bigger, then attached the sunglass lenses on the
inside of the mask with black electrical tape.  I know there are probably neater and more permanent ways to affix the replacement lenses, but  it looks fine from the outside.  (Other options for lenses: the dark sunglasses one gets for cataracts surgery.   Or check your hardware store for dark safety glasses)
BEFORE
AFTER
Here's a tip for those of you who wear prescription glasses like I do.  I've found it impossible to wear a pair of glasses underneath the mask.  There just isn't enough room.  So, instead, I took an old pair of my  glasses, popped the lenses out, and just affixed the prescription lenses inside the mask with electrical tape.  A coating of some anti-fog spray (like Rain-X) helps cut down on the fogging in between the two sets of lenses.
BEFORE
AFTER
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Artwork by Vaderkinde
Medium: Colored Pencil with Computer Graphic background
Shopping for your helmet
The link above  called "shopping for your helmet" will bring you to a page all about the different helmets that have been produced, discontinued , and which are currently being produced, etc...I haven't made the link to return back to this helmet page yet, so you'll just have to hit the "back" button when you are done..
The helmet that I have been using is the Standard Don Post Studios which was bought for me in the mid-80's, and it required a bit of modifying as described below. You may not need to do any of these modifications on whatever  newer mask you end up with.
I made billet sensors out of some little plastic  do-hickeys that we have at work.
I shortened both ends by slicing with an exacto knife, then found round-headed screws to thread  into the holes. I  filled the screw driver slots with a putty that dries rock solid.  I primed and painted with chrome spray paint.  The screw not  only forms part of the billet sensor, but it also provides a means of attaching it to the mask. I drilled small holes in the mask where the sensors are supposed to be, then screwed on the sensors. Since this isn't an item that can be found in a store, you can try other ideas, like using  the caps from a small ointment tube and putting the screw through that.
The Standard Don Post Studios mask will work well if you are smaller in stature, ~ 6' or less. (see shopping page for comparable sized masks) Darth Sye, seen in the picture on the right, is about 5'8" or 5'9", and he's wearing the DP Standard. The major complaint with this mask is that DP made the dome too small for the mask.  You can either live with this, as I have, or  you can make your own dome that is in correct proportion to the mask.
Darth Sye and friends at "AOTC" premiere
Plastic do-hickeys --->
Finished product screwed into mask---->