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| Some parts are expensive or can't be found new. Salvageing parts from other cars (with the owners permission) can save you money. Here is the where the heater hose attaches to the head. A gas VW has an extra outlet, that can be used to supply engine coolant to the HIH. If you can salvage one from a gas VW it's better than cutting the heater hose and installing a "T". It disconnects with two bolts. |
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| Get that temp sensor too. If It's from a VW with an engine temp guage It can be used as a fuel temp sensor. The VW diesel has a different heater hose block. It also contains the temp sensor for the glow plug timer. I run some of my glow plugs from a manual switch so I didn't need this sensor. Some VWs also have a small temp sensor in the radiator hose block. Salvage one of these radiator hose blocks and reinstall the glow plug temp sensor, if you want to keep it. My 1983 gas VW had an extra place to return coolant to the engine too but it wasn't as easy to remove. The metal line going back to the water pump (from the heater core and coolant resevoir) has an extra place to clamp a heater hose. If you grab this piece, it cleans things up because you don't need another "T" for returning coolant to the engine, from the HWH's vegetable oil tank heating coil. That "T" in the heater hose is something else, just ignore it, pretend you didn't see it, it's not important and forget you saw it. |
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| This is an oil filter flange from a VW. It bolts to the side of the block. I use it on my prefilter. |
| A fuel filter mount from a pre '85 VW diesel.This is also another view of the crimped fuel input banjo pictured above |
| This is a vacuum switch from an '80s gas VW. It is adjustable and is found in the vacuum advance line going to the distributor. I use it with the vacuum gauge, so I don't have to watch it all the time. It turns on a buzzer when the fuel line vacuum gets high. |
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| This is the metal coolant pipe, that runs from the heater to the waterpump. It usually needs reducers, hoses and clamps to gather the coolant as it returns to the engine from the vegy system. Welding two 3/8" stainless pipes to it allows me to connect the returning coolant to these pipes with much less clutter. |
| Cut and tap |
| This barb doesn't seal as well as I had hoped |
| These banjo fittings are the standard way VW connects it's fuel lines. To the filter and injector pump. The fuel temp sensor fits into one of these bolts. The picture just above, to the left, is a "hollow bolt" and double banjo fitting from a 1983 gas Rabbit, that I use to connect the fuel vacuum guage. I also found one on an '87 Golf. The center picture is of the banjo that sits on the end of the fuel input line, on a pre '85 VW diesel fuel filter. It works well with 3/8" I.D. PEX (see update below). Since I use the same filter and mount for diesel as for vegy, I can grab both these banjos. One on the end of the PEX line going to the vegy fuel filter, from the vegy tank and one for the PEX output line going to the injection pump. Once you remove the metal crimp and pull the fuel line from the banjo in the picture on the right, you will see the banjo pictured in the center. UPDATE: I've consistantly had problems with air coming in around my favorite barbed fittings (center picture above), when using PEX. I now cut the old end off, drill and tap this banjo (1/8" NPT) then screw in a 5/16" barbed fitting. Works great, no leaks. |