Hair Care Product Tips
There is a wide range of different products - creams, waxes, sprays, shine
enhancers - to choose from to enhance and hold the hair in the style that you
choose.
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hair
care products.
Dressing creams, shine enhancers and waxes
These are used to reduce static electricity and to replace the natural oils
lost in shampooing. Most dressing creams are made from mineral oil with perfume
added. Mineral oils are preferred to vegetable oils, because they do not go
rancid and they stay on the surface of the hair rather than penetrating the hair
shaft, thereby producing more shine. Vegetable oils may, however, be more
acceptable on sensitive skins. Animal oils, such as lanolin, are also used.
Only a small amount of cream is needed. Place a dollop about the size of a
pea in your palm, then rub the palms together before stroking the hair with your
hands, taking care not to forget the underneath layers. Don not use too much
dressing cream or the hair will appear greasy and lank. Brush the hair
afterwards to distribute the cream evenly throughout the hair.
Shine enhancers are oils used in spray form (often in an aerosol can).
The can should be held about 30cm (12in) away from the hair and sprayed above
the head.
Waxes are used to give texture to the hair. Rub a small amount between the
hands, allowing the friction to warm and melt the wax which should be quickly
applied to the hair before it cools. It then becomes more solid, helping to hold
the hair in position and give it a more textured look. Waxes are particularly
useful on long hair with frizzy ends or on curly hair.
Hair-fixing Sprays
Hair sprays commonly contain organic compounds that are synthesized to form
plastic polymers. These polymers are dissolved in alcohol, which coat the hair
with a clear plastic film.
Two of the polymers that are commonly used are polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP)
and polyvinyl acetate (PVA). These are used in different ratios: 60% PVP : 40%
PVA for normal use; 70% PVA : 30% PVA for hard holding.
Examples of other polymer blends currently used in hair sprays are
vinylacetate, crotonic acid, ethyl methacrylated and methacrylic acid. Since
these polymers are acidic, a neutralizer is normally added, such as
trisopropanolamine or 2-amno methyl propanol. The neutralizer also determines
the strength or 'hold' of the hair spray. Hair sprays also contain perfumes and
propellants, such as butane and propane.
When the lacquer is sprayed on to the hair, the alcohol evaporates and leaves
the resin, or plastic coating, in the hair. This causes it to stick or glue
together, thus holding the hair in place.
Always try to choose products packaged in aerosol cans that don not contain
CFCs, the gases that destroy the ozone layer. Many manufacturers now also produce
hand-pump hair sprays without propellant.
Tips for Applying hairspray:
- Protect your eyes and face with your free hand while spraying.
- Aim the spray so that the lacquer drops down on to the hair from above.
- Spray the lacquer from a distance of 30cm(12in), so that a fine, even spry
saturates the hair.
- Spraying too close to the head will overdo one area, leaving blobs on the
hair and sometimes causing it to droop with the weight.
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All setting aids work by covering the hair shaft with a protective coating
that when dry, helps to hold the shape that has been created and prevent the
absorption of moisture into the air, thus making the hair keep its shape for
longer.
Setting aids contain weak glues that hold the hair in place. Setting lotions
are normally runny and can be difficult to apply, because they tend to drip everywhere.
Gels contain chemicals that stiffen the product, but which become less viscous
when rubbed on your hands. Mousses are foams that contain very small bubbles of
air - the smaller the bubbles, the more dense the foam. They are often used for
scrunch and natural drying.
Setting aids may use PVA and PVP in teh same proportion as hair sprays,
although natural gums are also used, such tragacanth and karaya. Setting gels or
mousses may frequently contain citric acid as a conditioner, hydrogenated castor
oil, water (often referred to as 'aqua') and color or perfume.
You can choose from a number of fashion appliances, tools and accessories.
Some are basic items that everyone will need, such as combs and hairdryers;
others - pins, clips, bands and rollers - are used for special styles of hair.
Pins, clips and bands
These are indispensable for sectioning and securing hair during setting and
cutting. Pins can also be used to hold hair in place while it is being styled.
Double-pronged clips are usually used for making French pleats and other upswept
styles.
Fine hair pins can easily be concealed in a finished style, but should only
be used to secure a small amount of hair or the pins will slip and the hair
escape. Most pins are available with untipped, plain ends or cushion-tipped
ends, which are kinder on the scalp and less likely to break the hair. Most are
made of metal or plastic.
Hair bands of various kinds can be used to secure the hair in ponytails,
bunches and other more elaborate styles. These can be made of a variety of soft
materials. Never use elastic rubber bands, as these can damage and split the
hair.
Rollers
Rollers are put into the hair after shampooing to curl it. Some are smooth,
but those with spikes or brushes are the easiest to put in and secure. Some
self-fix without the need for pins. The larger the roller, the more relaxed the
curl of the hair.
Other kinds of shapers to curl the hair are made of soft plastic with wire
inside, so that you can bend them into the required shape. They usually create a
more natural look than rollers. Heated rollers can be used to curl the hair more
readily. They should be used only on dry or very slightly damp hair.
Tongs consist of a barrel or prong, and a groove, into which the barrel fits.
They can be used to create gentle waves or stronger curls in straight hair.
Hair Straighteners consist of flat, heated plates to iron out frizz or curl, while
crimpers have ridged metal plates that produce uniform patterned crimps in
straight lines.
Always remember that regular use of extremely hot tongs, crimpers and heated
rollers can dry out and damage longer hair.
Styling African Caribbean hair
Many African Caribbean women dress their hair in traditional styles, such as
cornrows or beading. The hair is twisted into dozens of tiny plaits or braids
and, after the initial plaiting process, can be left for more than two months
before it needs attention. Hair can also be threaded to create interesting
effects. This involves twisting the hair and then threading a piece of cotton
along it from the roots to the tips, before knotting it at the tip of the hair
ends.
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Cutting
Regular cutting of the hair is essential to keep it healthy. The ends of the
hair tend to dry out, as they are furtherest away from the scalp and are less
protected by sebum. They are also the oldest part of the hair shaft, so they
have suffered from more weathering. Chemicals and pollutants in the environment,
the sun, chlorine and the effects of brushing also tend to damage the ends of
the hair, so regular trimming is essential to keep your hair looking healthy.
It is a good idea to have your hair cut before you go on holiday, or, if not,
as soon as you come back.
Even if you are growing your hair long, the ends should be trimmed regularly
- every six weeks or at least every two months - to keep it in the best possible
condition and make it easier to look after.
Holiday Hair Care
Two weeks in the sun, with plenty of swimming in a pool or the sea, can cause
more damage to the hair than is done in the whole of the rest of the year.
The ultraviolet rays of the sun damage the cuticle and deplete the natural
oils and moisture in the hair. Strong winds whip up hair, causing it to tangle,
break and split at the ends. Chlorinated and salt water also damage the hair,
especially when the hair is not shampooed or rinsed immediately after bathing.
Protecting your hair against the sun is almost as important as protecting
your skin, so wear a sun-hat or headscarf on the beach. If you want your locks
to be free, you can buy protective hair sprays or sun-screen gels that contain a
UVB screen (ultraviolet B being the most intense and damaging form of
ultraviolet light). Remember to reapply sprays or gels after swimming. Or you
can use a leave-in conditioner that protects the hair against UVBs.
On windy days, keep your hair tied back or up to prevent tangles. Long hair
can be plaited or braided and left like this all day. Remember to wear a sun-hat
or screen when shopping or sightseeing, as well as when you are on the beach.
When your hair has been in the sunshine all day, try to leave it to dry
naturally after washing and shampooing it. It is best to wash your hair
frequently, especially after bathing, so remember to use a frequent-wash
shampoo. If you are bathing in a swimming pool, use an anti-chlorine shampoo.
Winter Holidays
Winter holidays can be harmful for your hair, too. Sunshine on the ski-slopes
is often stronger than the midday summer sun. Harsh, biting winds can cause
damage, while central heating tends to make the air drier and causes the hair to
lose moisture. Extreme cold makes the hair brittle and dry. To reduce the damage
done by central heating, place humidifiers on radiators at home to increase the
water vapor in the air; when you are away, place a bowl of water by the radiator
and replenish it frequently. Use a more intensive conditioner in winter to
combat the dryness caused by cold. On the ski-slopes, use a UVB screen on your
hair, or wear a hat.
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