Washing and Shampooing
The first and most important consideration in caring for the hair is keeping
it clean. The hair will inevitably be made dirty by skin flakes, salt from dried
sweat, and dust and dirt in the environment. While these clone would wash off
easily enough, they become mixed with the oily sebum that coats the scalp and
hair shaft. This combination does not easily dissolve in water, so water by
itself is not enough to clean your hair.
The skin on the scalp also has small pits and wrinkles, while the surface of
the hair shaft is not smooth (as the scales of the cuticle overlap), thereby
leaving small spaces where dirt can lodge. Water alone is unable to penetrate
these areas, as it is repelled by the layer of oil, so you will also need to add
a soapless detergent.
Although water needs to penetrate the hair to reach all the dirt, the
cleaning agent must not be so harsh that it removes all the sebum from the hair
and scalp. This would leave the hair dry and the scalp vulnerable to infection,
especially since the sebum contains a natural antiseptic. Anything used to clean
the hair must therefore be strong enough to lift off the dirt, but not so strong
that it damages the hair. It should also leave the hair in good condition.
Modern shampoos have been developed to clean the hair efficiently but gently.
Shampoos contain a soapless detergent that reduces the surface tension of the
water and enables the water molecules to reach the small crevices in the skin
and hair.
The detergent also emulsifies the oil, breaking it into tiny droplets that
can then be washed away by the water. The detergent molecules surround the dirt
particles, preventing them being redeposited on the hair.
Main Ingredients
Shampoos contain a wide range of ingredients to suit different types and
conditions of hair. The main ingredient is the detergent, also known as a
surfactant (short for surface-active agent).
The majority of shampoos use sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphates as the
principal surfactant. These have the strongest lathering and cleansing
properties, but can occasionally irritate the scalp. Laureth suphates are slightly
more gently and less irritant, and give greater shine to the hair.
Secondly surfactants are added to the shampoo to help to maintain a rich
later, increase the efficiency of main detergent, improve the conditonof the
hair and reduce the possibility of irritation of the scalp. They include alkyl
phosphates, methyl taurides, fatty-acid alkanolamides, alkyl amino acids,
sarcosines and peptides, The gentlest are alkyl amino acids, betains and alkyl
imidazoline compounds.
The most common preservatives used in shampoos are the parabens,
formaldehyde, Bronidox and methyl chloroisothiazolinones. Anyone with a scalp
disorder should avoid formaldehyde, as this is more likely than the other
preservatives to sensitize the skin.
Other ingredients:
Common salt - This is added to thicken the shampoo and can be found in most
types of shampoo
Acide (e.g. Citrus Acid) - This conditions the hair by leaving it slightly
acid after shampooing. Often found in 'PH balance' or 'acid balance'
shampoos.
Aitiseptics - These are added to preserve the shampoo and prevent the
growth of bacteria.
Stimulants - Menthol is sometimes added for its stimulant effect on the
scalp.
Shampoo Additives
A range of additional ingredients may be added to shampoos and should be
selected for their effects on the hair.
Protein
Many shampoos are advertised as protein shampoos. They are often obtained
from protein substances -soya is a common example, and egg may also be added.
The manufacturers suggest that the proteins will adhere to the porous regions of
the hair. While this may be the case, the surest way to add protein to the hair
is to eat protein foods, as this helps the hair to form correctly in the first
place.
Beer
This is sometimes added to shampoos: the beer coats each hair, thickening it
slightly and adding body and shine to the whole head.
Fruits
Extracts of fruit, in the form of fruit sugars, are sometimes used in
shampoos, as they draw in moisture from the air and hydrate the hair.
Herbs
Many herbs are used in shampoos and other hair preparations as they contain
natural substances that have different effects on the hair. You need to choose a
preparation that will suit the texture and color of your hair
- Rosemary - has antiseptic properties and can be used to treat dandruff and
other scalp problems.
- Juniper - may stimulate hair growth and acts as a strong antiseptic.
- Cedarwood - can help an itchy or flaky scalp.
- Tea tree - the oil can help with an itchy scalp or dandruff.
- Chamomile - has drying effect on greasy hair and is used to add highlights
to fair hair.
- Lemongrass - also used to treat greasy hair.
- Almond - contains proteins and amino acids that help thicken fine hair.
- Aloe vera - acts as a general hair tonic
- Comfrey - can be used to treat dry hair.
- Lavender - can be used to treat oily hair.
- Nettle - extract of nettle root is used for oily hair.
- Ginger root - acts as an astringent and is used in some shampoos to treat
dandruff; it is claimed to nourish the skin when taken by mouth.
- Coconut - for moisturizing dry hair.
- Macassar - Indian macassar oil is rich in oleic and linoleic acid and is
used for dry, dehydrated and brittle hair.
- Safflower - safflower seed is rich in fatty acids and the oil can be used
on damaged or brittle hair.
Other Shampoo additives
Other ingredients may also be added to shampoos to help protect against dandruff
or the harmful effects of chlorine, or to bleach the hair.
Bleaches
Sometimes a small amount of hydrogen peroxide is added to shampoo as a mild
bleach.
Anti-Dandruff agents
Scaling or flaking of the scalp is sometimes caused by bacteria.
Anti-bacterial ingredients, such as cetrimide BP or phenethyl alcohol, are added
to some shampoos in order to treat this. Fungal infections may also cause
dandruff. If this is a problem for you, then use a shampoo to which anti-fungal
ingredients have been added ; the most common is undecenoic acid BP.
To slow down cell growth in the germinative layer of the epidermis (the outer
layer of the skin), selenium sulphide or zinc pyrithione are used. The former
should not be used within 48 hours of tinting or perming the hair, or there may
be a reaction between this substance and the ammonium compounds in tints and
perms.
Irritation and scaling of the scalp are often assisted by the use of coat-tar
products, as these are antiseptc and lessen irritation. For cases where the
scalp is simply dry, coconut fatty acids are added, and fruit sugars may help to
moisturize the scalp as well as the hair. Urea may also be used to add body to
limp hair.
Anti-Chlorine Agents
Some shampoos have been formulated to undo the harmful effects of chlorine in
swimming pools. These often contain a substance called EDTA, which attaches
itself to chlorine and to the metal ions, removing them from the hair. This will
prevent discoloration of the hair by these metals.
Watch out for:
Harsh surfactants that remove ever trace of sebum from the scalp.
Irritation of the scalp and eyes after shampooing - if you experience this,
use another shampoo.
Highly perfumed and colored shampoos. Perfumes and colors are added to
shampoos to make them pleaseant to use and a recognizable product. Nearly all
sensitization reactions to shampoos are due to either the perfume or the
preservative. This happens very rerely, however, because most products are in
contact with the scalp for only a short time. Occasionally irritation may result
when the shampoo is not completely rinsed away after use.
Finding the right shampoo
Always use the correct kind of shampoo for your hair type. Look at the label
- most will specify what type of hair thhey are designed for.
Test different shampoos to find one that is right for you - try small sachets
or samples.
Shampoo: How to use it?
Soap is unsuitable for use on hair as it is too harsh and also leaves s
sticky deposit on the hair, especially in hard water areas. Modern shampoos use
soapless detergents that leave the hair clean and shiny. There are a large
number of brands and types of shampoo available, so shop around to find a
shampoo that suits your hair.
How often should you shampoo?
How often you wash your hair will depend on your lifestyle and how dirty it
gets, plus the type of hair you have - dry, normal or greasy.
As a rule, greasy hair needs shampooing more often than dry hair. The most
important thing, however, is the level of dirt your hair is exposed to. If you
live and work in the city, travel on buses, underground trains or by rail, or
work in an environment that is polluted, you will have to wash your hair frequently.
If so, you should take care to replace the lost oils with conditioner.
Some people believe that hair should not be washed too frequently because
this removes too much oil from the hair. This is and idea derived from the days
when the air was cleaner, and shampoos as we know them had yet to be invented,
but it does not apply today. With modern shampoos and pollution levels, hair
needs regular washing. IF the dirt builds up, it can damage the hair and scalp
and become more difficult to remove.
Frequent washing - provided a mild shampoo is used, which strips less of the
sebum from the hair, and is followed each time by a conditioner - should not
harm the hair. Even washing the hair as often as once a day should not be
damaging to it.
A build-up of hair products normally causes a problem only if the hair is
very porous, due to being over-treated, colored or permed, or on very long and
therefore old hair, where it may adhere more and make the hair feel tacky.
Hairdressers may have a problem in tinting or perming, since the hair may be
protected to some degree from the chemicals being used. In this case, shampoos
that simply clean the hair (and don not condition it) are best.
The PH Factor
PH (short for potential of hydrogen) is used as a measure of acidity and
alkalinity. Sebum naturally has a PH of between 4.5 (which is mildly acidic) and
7 (which is neutral). Bacteria don not thrive in this environment. Many shampoos
are therefore formulated to have a PH that is roughly the same as sebum, to help
keep bacteria down and protect the hair.
Which Shampoo?
It is sometimes claimed that it is best to alternate the shampoo you use, but
there is no evidence that using only one shampoo will harm your hair, unless you
have chosen the wrong type of shampoo in the first place.
The Shampooing Process
Telling someone how to shampoo their hair sounds a bit like teaching your
grandmother to such eggs, but many people shampoo without thinking, following
instructions they were given years ago, such as always having to use two lots of
shampoo, or applying too much or too little shampoo. There are also many old
wives' tales about washing hair - such as the one that washing hair in cold
water increases it shine.
- Always read the instructions on the bottle first - some shampoos recommend
that you leave them on for f few minutes before rinsing.
- Soak the hair thoroughly in warm water, as sebum will now dissolve in cold
water.
- Use a small dollop of shampoo on short hair, a medium dollop on longer
hair, and spread it between your hands to ensure an even spread before
stroking it through your hair.
- Pay special attention to the hairline area, as this is where dirt and old
make-up can lodge.
- Gently massage the shampoo into the roots of the hair with the tips of
your fingers - never your nails.
- Rinse the hair thoroughly, as any residue left on it may cause the cuticle
to break down or become more porous.
- Only if your hair was very dirty or the product did not lather well the first
time do you need to shampoo it again.
- Rinse your hair in clean, warm water - don't rinse it in the bathwater, as
soap residue will cling to the hair and make it dull and porous.
- Rinse several times until the water runs clear.
- Blot the hair dry with a clean towel. Too much vigorous rubbing of wet
hair can stretch and damage it.
- Long hair is best shampooed under a shower, as it minimizes the tangling
that often results when hair is shampooed leaning forwards over a basin. The
back-wash basins used in most hair salons work in the same way as the
shower.
Conditioners are usually acidic and may be oil - or wax-based substances that
are applied to the hair to replace some of the oils lost during shampooing.
It may seem absurd to wash the protective sebum out of the hair and then
replace it with other substances. However, dirt, chemicals and other pollutants
cling to the sebum that coats the hair shaft and scalp, and they need to be
regularly removed. Conditioners are then necessary to restore the lost moisture
and to create a glossy shine.
Types of Conditioner
There are three main types of conditioner: basic, oil-based conditioners;
'substantive' conditioners, which add material to the hair; and acid-type conditioners.
Basic conditioners - These are normally oils suspended in an emulsion
of water to make a creamy substance that is easy to apply to the hair. Lanolin,
from sheep's wool, is often used as a substitute for sebum.
Substantive conditioners - These become fixed to, or absorbed into,
the hair shaft, coating the hair. As well as the conditioning agent, they
include some soapless detergents and polyvinyl pyrrolidone(PVP), which acts both
as a setting agent and as a conditioner.
Acid conditioners - These are used to restore the natural, slightly
acidic PH of the hair. They can be used to neutralize alkaline deposits left on
the hair after perming, bleaching or tinting. They may also be applied to make
sure that the final PH of the hair is acidic. Organic acids, such as citric
acid, tartaric acid and lactic acid, are often used.
These three basic types of conditioner are packaged in many different
ways to make a variety of treatments. These include:
Hot oils - These can be used for a deep conditioning treatment. They
usually come in a tube that can be placed in hot water for a minute or so before
applying the oil.
The hair should be wetted, dabbed dry with a towel, and the hot oil should be
massaged evenly into the hair and scalp. The head can then be covered with a
shower cap. The oils are left on for a specified period, then shampooed and
rinsed away.
Henna Wax conditioners - These thick, colorless products are used for
a deep conditioning treatment. They are applied in the same way as hot oils and
have no effect on hair color.
Conditioning sprays - These may be used before styling the hiar, as
they protect it against the harmful effects of heat when the hair is dried. They
can also reduce static on fine of flyaway hair.
Intensive conditioners - These are designed to help the hair replenish
its natural elasticity and condition. They are applied evenly to wet hair after
shampooing and are left on for 5, 10,15 or even 20 minutes, then rinsed out well
in fresh water.
Leave-in Conditioners - These can be left on the hair after shampooing
to help retain moisture, reduce static and add shine. They are used mainly on
very dry, damaged or flyaway hair. Some are designed to be used daily.
Restructurants - These contain proteins that may be deposited on the
cuticle or even absorbed into the cortex in areas where the hair is damaged,
thus temporarily strengthening it.
They are usually recommended for hair that has been damaged by excessive
treatments, although they may in fact be of more use in protecting hair against
damage. Remember that badly damaged hair cannot be repaired, although these conditioners
will help it to remain supple for longer that it otherwise would.
After-color and after-perm conditioners - After-color conditioners add
a protective film around the porous areas of treated hair, which can prevent
color loss. After-perm products help stabilize the hair, restoring the correct
PH balance and helping it to keep its curl and bounce.
Split-end treatments - These are designed for damaged hair. They
surround it with a microscopic film, which makes the hair shaft smoother and
more shine. The 'repair' to the split ends lasts only until the next shampoo, or
until brushing and combing remove it, and is not permanent.
Sun-block conditioners - Some conditioners are formulated with an
ultraviolet screen to protect the hair against the harmful effects of the sun.
Scalp Massage
Massage helps to maintain a healthy scalp by improving the circulation of
blood, which delivers nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicle. It is best
avoided if the hair is excessively oily, however, as it increases sebum
production. It can also help to loosen dead skin cells from the scalp. Massage
of the neck and shoulders also relaxes the neck muscles, which, when tense, can
cut down on the free circulation of blood to the hair and scalp.
It is ideal if someone else can massage your scalp for you, either at a hair
salon or at home. However, you can easily learn the right technique and massage
your own hair every time you shampoo. There are three main kinds of massage:
efflecurage, petrissage and friction.
Effleurage - This is a stroking movement applied to the scalp with the
fingers in a slow, rhythmic manner. It can be used to relieve tension and relax
the muscles. Both hands are held at the center front of the head and then pulled
firmly down the back to the nape of the neck. The hands are then placed at
either slide of the temples and pulled firmly back round the contours at the
side of the head, down to the neck and then on to the shoulders. This kind of
massage is best performed by someone else; teach your partner of family how to
do this for you.
Petrissage - This is a slow, firm, kneading movement in which the skin is
rotated over the skull bones underneath the fingers. It increases blood
circulation and stimulates the glands and muscles. The fingers are placed well
spread out on the scalp and the skin is then rotated over the skull, without the
fingers sliding over the scalp. The right hand moves in a clockwise direction
while the left hand moves in an anti-clockwise direction. The hands are lifted
from their position and moved to new areas until the whole scalp has been
massaged. Begin in the nape of the neck, work around the ears to the front
hairline, then back across the top of the head, ending at the nape. Leave one
hand in place while moving the other, as this makes the massage more continuous
and pleasant. This is easy to do yourself while shampooing or conditioning your
hair.
Friction - This is the more familiar massage that many people use when
washing their hair. The fingers are directed in quick, vigorous movements, over the
scalp. It helps to start at the front of the head, then move the fingers firmly
over the scalp in circular movements down to the nape of the neck, and back
again.
A head massage should leave you with a feeling of relaxation. invigoration
and well-being.
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