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Larry's Log

Venezuela 2004 - Part 26

Wednesday night there were no storms but it was cloudy in the morning. However, at least we slept well with a nice breeze. Diane and I were both pretty tired from getting up at 3:30 yesterday morning for the storm.

We spoke on the SSB this morning to Avatar, they were fine and almost to Tortuga. We also spoke to Ariyl back in PLC - they were fine and their boat work was progressing but slowly since it was raining almost everyday.

After eating, Laurence came over to help Diane with baking 'french' bread and Ingemar and I went snorkeling, he to hunt and me to just 'fish watch.' The boys stayed on Dolphin Street with schoolwork. Ingemar was moderately successful - he got 4 medium sized fish and I enjoyed it since I could just go wherever and stay as long as I wanted. We stayed out about 2 hours and got back as the ladies were finished for the moment - evidently the bread needs to rise and then be punched down again before baking. So, they would come over again at 2pm and start the bread again and then we would all go snorkeling. While we ate lunch, I ran the engine to charge the batteries; the wind was light and there was little sun again today.

We went out snorkeling again around 2, just after Laurence came over to help Diane with the bread. Since it was so calm, we went out near the barrier reef and although there was a strong current and some swell, we enjoyed it. I think I saw a new species of blenny, a Goldline Blenny, but I'm not positive. I looked it up in my fish book and now that I know what it looks like with distinguishing marks, I'll be able to positively identify it next time.

A little later, the crew of Dolphin Street came over and while the boys had dinner below at the table, we ate in the cockpit. They had found a nice bottle of French wine and we enjoyed that with our dinner of pasta Alfredo. Diane had also made brownies for dessert so we were certainly not hungry. We all had a nice time.

The next day was a busy one for us. In the morning, since we had little wind overnight, we had to run the engine and watermaker for almost 3 hours. While that was happening though, Diane did some things on the boat and I cleaned the hull again. The waterline was amazingly bad considering we had done it just about 2 weeks ago and the rudder and skeg were completely covered with some reddish soft growth that was particularly tenacious. I didn't even get to clean the rest of the hull or keel and I was at it for 3 hours. Finally I quit around noon to rest and have lunch.

After we ate and were relaxing a little, we saw a large group of dolphins coming by the boats. Laurence and her son Nils got in the water and snorkeled to them - we watched from the deck and I tried taking some pictures. They later said that there were dozens of them although we only saw a small group of about 15 on the surface. They also said that the noise in the water got very loud as they got nearer - probably from their echolocation. It was a special treat, even for us.

A little later, we all went snorkeling in the reef on the blue hole we were anchored near. It was excellent and Ingemar speared a small grouper and a 4-pound lobster. I finally identified a small fish I had seen before although it wasn't the blenny I was looking for. The reef was beautiful though and we were out for over 2 hours.

Back at the boat, we stopped at Dolphin Street and said they could come over and cook their meal - they accepted the offer but only if we would take half of the lobster. We really didn't want to but they insisted so Laurence came over and cooked it and gave us half. She went back to her boat and we ate the lobster immediately - as soon as Diane could melt some butter - delicious.

Friday was a lot like yesterday, in the morning anyway. Around 9, I started running the engine (still very cloudy and almost no wind) and went into the water to continue cleaning the hull. Diane did a lot of cooking and defrosted the freezer again so she was also pretty busy. I was at it for well over 2 hours again and managed to clean the port side and part of the starboard side. I did the keel on the port side also at least as much as I could do with a plastic scraper - the heavy growth at the bottom would need a metal one so I figured I could do that tomorrow. While cleaning the bow section, I discovered some blisters that would need attention, one of which was a little bigger than a quarter. The keel would also need some more work when we hauled - the spot where we hit something in Carenero last year would have to be cleaned up and filled and there were some spots where I had faired the lead that also needed to be filled in again - so much for looking forward to a quick haulout.

In the afternoon we went snorkeling on the south side of the blue hole. After anchoring the dinghy (in 4 feet of water), we swam into some very green, murky water. It was so calm that the normal current hadn't been able to flush out the algae growth. We experienced this last year as well. We turned around and found some nice clear water and enjoyed the snorkeling a lot. I saw some interesting fish in the shallows (Green Razorfish, Red-spotted Hawkfish, etc.) and also collected a conch that we gave to Ingemar and Laurence.

After relaxing a little back at the boat, and running the engine some more since there was still no wind (and the refrigerator would be running almost constantly since Diane just defrosted it), we went over to Dolphin Street. We were invited for a fish barbeque, with Diane bringing some rice and a nice corn soufflé. We had a very nice time and the fish were good but the best was the Mojarra, a silvery fish that had a very firm, white flesh and also very flavorful. I had suggested that Ingemar try for those since George and Brenda on Avatar told me that they were very good. I'll have to let them know we appreciated the information.

It was another busy day for us and Dolphin Street. I know that Ingemar worked on his problem with the stuffing box since I saw him with his SCUBA gear on going under the boat. I finally finished cleaning the hull and did the propeller as well, although the prop didn't need much work - the Velox paint we used in Trinidad 18 months ago was still working wonderfully (unfortunately, you can't get it anymore). By the time I finished that and Diane finished doing more cooking for the evening (we invited Dolphin Street over for dinner), it was lunchtime.

We ate and went snorkeling again - first I went in the shallows and then met Diane who had gone to the blue hole. I saw a new species for us, not too impressive a fish but still a new one, called a Saddled Blenny (only 2 inches long). I always enjoy seeing new fish species, regardless of size, and we enjoyed it. The breeze was still pretty calm but at least the clouds had mostly cleared so conditions were pretty good. We went back to the boat to drop off our gear and then went to Dolphin Street to show them how to prepare conch. Diane had gotten another large one and they had also found 2 so we had 4 to prepare. Dolphin Street has a very nice swim platform close to the water so we opened the conch there and using a hammer and chisel, made the hole between the 2nd and 3rd spirals. I used my knife to cut the adductor muscle from the inside of the shell and Ingemar had a bent-nose needle nose pliers to grab the foot. It actually worked very well - we got the animal out without having to smash the shell completely apart. I may have also discovered why I had trouble before - there is another compartment just below the right one and I think I may have been trying to cut it there. Regardless, we were successful but it still made quite a mess and on the last conch, I broke my knife - my good $20 fillet knife. I guess I had cut enough though since the animal came out but now my knife was 4 inches shorter. Oh well - revenge of the conch.

We went back to Destiny after finishing and I brought up the dinghy while Diane made some more preparations.

They came over about 6:30; Diane showed Laurence how to make conch 'steak', then Ingemar cooked the accras (a French dish similar to conch fritters) Laurence had prepared before they came over using the fish Ingemar had gotten the day before. Then, we had the pizza Diane made. Finally, we had the 'English Matrimonials' Diane had baked earlier. Nobody was hungry.

Sunday we finally had a slow day. We didn't do much in the morning except run the watermaker and I read while Diane did some emails. (We were very behind in our correspondence.) After eating, I went snorkeling and Diane just did some more things on the PC. I went to the shallows behind the barrier reef and didn't see too much but did find a large lobster that I just couldn't get out his hole. He was in very shallow water and I could just grab his antenna but couldn't get him out. I also had a close encounter with a large barracuda - he would look at me and I would look at him and eventually he would swim off if I went towards him. He followed me though for about 30 minutes until I finally swam beyond his interest. I found another new species, a Dusky Blenny, in very shallow water.

Back at the boat, I just read until Ingemar and Laurence came over to cook the spaghetti they were going to bring back to Dolphin Street for dinner. They were planning to leave tomorrow - Ingemar had fixed his stuffing box and they hoped they could get a new propane regulator in Bonaire. They were planning to be there for a while and then come back to Las Aves so perhaps we would see them again after tomorrow morning - they were very nice.

The next morning, Dolphin Street left for Sotavento. Leaving at about 9 in 12 to 15 knots, they should make it in about 2 1/2 -3 hours. They came by early to say goodbye and drop off a recipe Diane had asked for, then got the boat ready. I watched as Ingemar used their manual windlass to raise the anchor and I was thankful I had a working electric one. We wished them a good trip as they left - we enjoyed their company but it was nice now to have some solitude.

After they left, Diane did some hand laundry since the wind was now pretty good and the sun was out and we could run the watermaker without the engine. By the time that was done, it was almost noon. After eating, we went snorkeling again and had a very good time - the water clarity was much better.

Back at the boat, Diane took in the (now dry) laundry and then I raised the dinghy - it was starting to get some growth on the bottom even though we raised it at least every other day. We then discussed going to the northern reef anchorage that Avatar told us about. No definite decision but we would see in the morning.

The next morning we decided to stay another day at the Blue Hole since it was so nice. The wind was easterly at 10-12 knots with bright sun. I had monitored how many amp-hours we got in yesterday starting at 9am from the wind generator and the solar panels for a 24-hour period. When I looked, it was 170 - the previous best was 150 in the Tobago Cays almost 3 years ago. Of course, I didn't monitor this all the time but still, this was great. We had run the watermaker for 4 hours yesterday (after doing laundry), taking almost 70 amp-hours and along with the refrigerator that was still getting the box down to temperature after Diane defrosted it, about 75 amp-hours. We generally used very little else, some for lights, the radio and charging the laptop.

The wind was actually down a bit from yesterday but still OK so it wasn't too hot. We did some miscellaneous things in the morning - Diane did some cooking and worked on the computer while I cleaned up a little and read. We went snorkeling in the afternoon.

The snorkeling was excellent. First, Diane showed me a small wreck she had found in just 20 feet of water. It was really only the outline of a small fishing boat but was interesting nonetheless. We then went along the reef on the northwest side of the blue hole and it was very nice. I saw what I assume was the same small blenny in the same spot as 2 days ago and confirmed it was a Saddled Blenny - a new species. We then went further down the reef and saw some interesting fish and witnessed some interesting behavior - 2 White Grunts of the same size challenging each other with open mouths. Diane went back before me and after she left, I saw a small turtle, a large school of jacks, a barracuda and a Yellowbelly Hamlet - only the second one I've ever seen. I hope the northern part of the reef is this good.

Back at the boat, we decided to go to the north anchorage tomorrow, our anniversary. It would be a great way to spend it.

Wednesday, October 13 and we left for the northern reef at about 10:30 and slowly made our way through the reef system to the northwest. George on Avatar had given us a guide waypoint and an anchorage waypoint so we were following that. We got there at about noon but had a hard time figuring which little hole was good. They all had some coral heads but we finally picked one and anchored in about 20 feet of nice sand. The wind was about 12 knots and it was somewhat rolly since the reef up here wasn't as high or as extensive as that further south. Not that there wasn't lots of reefs or coral but it just wasn't as protective so the waves would roll over the reef and make their way to the boat. Diane wasn't very happy about that but we anchored and I went to snorkel on the anchor (which was dug in well) and swam to the reef in front of the boat and went around eventually to the patch reef just north of us by about 25 yards. We wouldn't have any problems there unless we had a wind reversal, which of course was a possibility - we hadn't had one in about 10 days.

The snorkeling was OK but a lot of the coral was dead. The only interesting thing I saw, which was pretty impressive, was a 4 to 5-foot grouper just swimming just above the sand between 2 patch reefs. I couldn't get a really good look to identify it, but he was the biggest grouper I had ever seen. He swam away as I started to get just a little closer - oh well.

I climbed back on the boat using the swim ladder and we ate lunch. After I did the dishes (my anniversary present to Diane), we both went snorkeling. We agreed that because it was rolly, and because of the continuing possibility of a wind reversal, we would only stay here one night. The current was still pretty strong so we didn't stay out very long but Diane did manage to find a large conch that we kept for tomorrow. I could open it on the island so it wouldn't make a mess on the boat. The snorkeling again was nice but not as impressive as the blue hole we just left.

Later on we had our champagne to celebrate our anniversary. About that time, an uninvited guest showed up, a small bird flew into the cockpit. He stayed with us for about 30 minutes but since we didn't offer him any champagne, he left. (Turns out he didn't leave but flew into the boat and died - I only found him once we got to Bonaire and I was looking for something.) We then had a nice dinner of lomito (filet mignon) and a cucumber and sour cream dish (our last cucumber). Dessert was a chocolate cake - all very good.

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