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Larry's LogSunday was also fairly slow - in the morning we just relaxed and read a bit, and ran the watermaker - The sun was bright and the breeze about 10-15 knots so we didn't have to run the engine, a real blessing. Diane made a nice sauce for a shrimp and pasta dish we were having for dinner. After lunch, we went snorkeling to the reef just north of the boat. We had been there the first time we came to Los Roques and weren't too impressed but this time it was pretty good. Diane got tired before I did and went back to the boat but I continued and saw a pair of Spotfin Butterflyfish; we've seen them before but rarely. After snorkeling, we took the dinghy to shore and relaxed in the water. Back at the boat, I raised the dinghy for the first time since we got here - not for security but to prevent bottom growth. The only problem that day was a large powerboat that came in and anchored just in front of us. As usual, they didn't let out much scope but the problem was that they played music very loudly. After it got dark, Diane tried to shout over to get them to lower it, and I think they did but not much. Finally, about 10pm, they turned it off and we got to sleep. (Actually, the other problem was a Brown Noddy that kept landing on the bow railing; they don't scare easily - we had to get within 5 feet before he would get off.) The wind got much lighter overnight and the batteries were a little low in the morning. But, we intended to go to Carenero, the next island to the west, today anyway so we will have to run the engine for that, also charging the batteries. We got to Carenero a little before noon, after leaving Sarqui at 10:30. It was also pretty crowded but we got a good spot out by the fringing reef which was still in the breeze. There was lots of room further inside the lagoon but that would be hot and probably buggy. After the anchor was set, we put up the sun canvas and got a little organized. We recognized a boat we knew in the anchorage, Sangria, from Spain. We had met them in PLC and they were very nice and spoke some English. They were off the boat when we first came in but later they saw us and came by and gave us 2 small lobsters which we had for lunch. Excellent - thank you. We made arrangements to meet them to go snorkeling tomorrow around 10 so they could show us their 'secret' spot. I don't know if we'll take any lobster or conch as this is a park, but it would be interesting to see them. Later, we went snorkeling around the little island just west of where we anchored and it was really good. We had never tried there before and saw several new species (Redear Herring, Corocoro, Latin Grunt and Slender Mojarra) since it was a slightly different habitat, a small reef right next to some mangroves. We also saw a Highhat (seen once before), a rather strange black and white striped fish, but very interesting. We also had our first 'official' visit by the Inparques (the park caretakers) - we were in the water snorkeling when they drove up in their boat that said 'Inparques - Los Roques' on it. Diane thinks they just wanted to make sure we weren't spearfishing, which of course, we weren't (we don't own one). Anyway, they just stayed a few minutes and we continued our snorkeling. We then went around the small island and landed at a small beach on the other side to relax. We went back to the boat, stopping at Sangria to say hello, and just took it easy for the rest of the evening. The next morning, we went with Santi (short for Santiago) and his wife Carmen to the place they had told us about yesterday at about 10. It turned out to be the same place Steph had described to us in an email. But, Tom and Steph had left the dinghy near the island but Santi had said it was better to get out of the dinghy and pull it over to the 'blue hole'. We did that but there were places where the water was very shallow and we had to drag the dinghy across some coral and rocks - not very good for the little boat. We got there though and then anchored out on a deep patch of sand. They had spearguns so we just snorkeled around and it was very nice, we finally saw some Midnight Parrotfish and I saw a Rainbow Parrotfish. They did get a large lobster and 2 Scrawled Filefish, which they said were as good as grouper. When we left, and found a slightly better way back to the lagoon where the boats were anchored, they invited us to dinner, which was very nice. We got back and saw that most of the local boats had left so we took the opportunity to move a little bit in toward the island but still just behind the reef, where the breeze was good (now blowing a little better at about 12-15 knots from the southeast). After we moved, we started the watermaker and had lunch. After running the watermaker for a couple of hours, we went snorkeling again at the same spot as yesterday - still pretty good. We then went to shore at the same beach and relaxed for a while before coming back to the boat and running the engine for an hour. The wind had lessened to about 10 knots and there were some clouds so the batteries were a little low. While running the engine, we ran the watermaker again since we had taken showers again. In the evening, we went over to Sangria for dinner. Diane had made some brownies and we brought some wine as well. Santi spoke English pretty well but Carmen not so much, but we managed pretty well and we had a very nice time. They described their cruise in the Mediterranean and I found it fascinating - something I would like to do as well. Wednesday morning was occupied with snorkeling again with Santi and Carmen, although they had to move their boat a little first because a 120 foot powerboat came in and anchored too close to them. They probably wouldn't have hit but the noise from the larger boat was annoying. We went out and tried several spots and had a good time. We didn't do much in the afternoon but then it was our turn to get other boats anchored too close. Around 4pm, an Italian catamaran came in and wound up just 20 yards from our port side (at least he had some nice looking girls on board) but then a local day charter boat came in and anchored on our starboard side and would have been just 10 yards away if he hadn't let out more than 100 feet of scope in the 17 feet of water - the problem was that he was using rope rather than chain and boats like that will swing a little differently so I was a little worried that if the wind shifted, Destiny would be the middle of a sandwich. I kept an eye on them both during the evening but the wind stayed constant in direction, if not in strength, so we had no problems. The day charter boat wouldn't stay too long in the morning anyway. I just don't understand why they had to come so close - there was plenty of room in the rest of the lagoon. Anyway, we just relaxed for the afternoon and I hoisted the dinghy again to prevent growth. We went snorkeling the next day at the spot Santi and Carmen had shown us (the same one Tom and Steph had described) and it was really good. It was a bit tough to get to as we had to walk to it again, although we left the dinghy anchored in 4-5 feet of water nearby. We managed to find a way in and saw lots of live coral and several fish species that we had only seen once or twice before, like an Ocean Triggerfish and Checkered Puffer. We also saw a large Southern Stingray. We went further down the blue hole, along the reef and found a pass out to the ocean that was quite easy. There, we saw a huge school of Blue Tangs and many very large snappers. When we got ready to leave, we also discovered a better way to exit so we didn't risk stepping into a hole in the coral rock (possibly breaking something). We got back to the boat about 1 - we had been out for 3 hours. So we rinsed off the gear and ourselves, started the watermaker and had lunch. In the afternoon, we mostly relaxed but went to the beach to drop off some garbage (at the approved site) and then went for a swim. Later, Santi and Carmen came over for dinner. Again, we had a nice time with them. As was usual, we went snorkeling the next morning, showing Santi and Carmen the route we had found to the enclosed lagoon through a small 'channel' behind the main barrier reef. The place was really very pretty with very interesting coral formations. We also went through the small pass to the outside of the reef and although we saw nothing new, there was a 6 foot barracuda that greeted us. We didn't stay outside long since the current was a bit strong. Back inside, we enjoyed the rest of the reef. As we left along the sand flats in just 1 foot of water, I saw another new species - not very spectacular but new to us - a Flagfin Mojarra, a small silvery fish with just a spot on its dorsal fin, giving it the name. We got back to the boat around noon and mostly just relaxed in the afternoon although Diane made some bread and I replaced a pull ring on a snapshackle. We took a swim around 4 and decided to stay another day to snorkel in the 'pool' again. The wind started picking up about 5, as usual, but kept strengthening until at about 9, it was gusting to about 20-22 knots, meaning that the wind generator was overpowered and I needed to feather it against the wind to keep it from sounding like a helicopter on the stern. Saturday the wind continued fairly strong but had moderated when I got up during the night so I released it and we started getting about 4-6 amps again. In the morning, it stayed pretty steady but increased again by 10am. We ran the watermaker for an hour before we went snorkeling but I turned the wind gen off rather than risk overcharging the batteries. Snorkeling was again very nice but other than a large barracuda, we saw nothing exciting - the spot was just very pretty. We decided though that we would leave tomorrow for Cayo de Agua since we had been in Carenero for 5 days and were getting tired of the daily procession of day charters and other local boats coming in and out all the time. The guy who had come in yesterday and anchored pretty close (when it wasn't necessary) was also running his generator 24 hours a day for some reason and it was getting annoying. Anyway, since we had a good power source today (12-15 knots of wind and bright sun), when we got back, after lunch, Diane did some hand laundry and then ran the watermaker another 3 hours in the afternoon. I replaced the lifting lines for the dinghy since one of them was getting frayed - always something. We went to shore for a quick swim later and then back to the boat and a sundowner. After breakfast the next day, we got ready to leave and go to Cayo de Agua. As luck would have it, the annoying guy who ran his generator all day left just before us - oh well, at least he was going east, not west. We took the garbage we had to the collecting site on shore and left our boat card on Sangria since they weren't there. As we were getting ready, a fisherman stopped by and asked if we wanted any of the fish he had. Diane looked but they were pretty small Yellowtail Jacks and I certainly didn't want to try to fillet fish that small so we declined. Most local restaurants serve fish whole (cleaned, of course) so the small size isn't that bad but Diane doesn't make them that way. We finished getting ready and just as we were about to raise the anchor, we saw Santi and Carmen on their dinghy, but then they stopped again to do some more snorkeling. We got under way about 11 and they saw us and got in the dinghy, so we slowed down and they came over to say goodbye. They were heading back to PLC in a few days. We had a nice, if short sail over to Cayo de Agua in about 12 to 15 knots from the southeast under just the jib. We got into the anchorage and were settled by about 12:30. After lunch, we read for a while and then went snorkeling to the little reef we had enjoyed so much last year; we weren't disappointed. We saw 2 large Queen Triggerfish, a large Palometa and several schools of Midnight Parrotfish. What was really nice was that there were some very large Rainbow Parrotfish mixed in and they didn't seem as afraid of us as others we had seen. The afternoon light was shining on them perfectly and because the water was relatively shallow (only about 6 feet) we got a great view. One large (about 4 feet) fish seemed to be posing in front of me - I only wish I had an underwater camera. We got back to the boat and saw several more boats had also come in, mostly through the unmarked opening in the reef on the east side of the lagoon. These were the local, captained, charter boats that came in and out every week. We had taken the normal route around the west side that's longer but at least we know what to expect there (there are no buoys anyplace). The wind was still up but had backed a little to the east so now we had some small waves building in the mile wide lagoon - we were bouncing a bit but not too badly. Monday morning the wind decreased tremendously, as predicted by most of the weather sources we listen to or read. So, the anchorage was now a bit warm. We went snorkeling to the outer reef in the morning since it was so light. We enjoyed it although the water was a bit murky, more so than the last time we had been there. I also saw a new species - a Flat Needlefish, like a small silvery torpedo with a long beak. Back at the boat, I fixed one of the burners on the stove that had developed a small hole in the bottom where it had rusted through. I cleaned up the rust as much as possible and then used some stuff called JB Weld, a steel epoxy, to fill and seal the hole. I don't know what temperature it will withstand but I guess we'll find out. After fixing the stove burner, we relaxed, had lunch and then ran the engine and watermaker since the wind was so light and there were some clouds as well. In the late afternoon, I cleaned the waterline from the algae that had really started to take hold, particularly on the starboard side where the boat was listing a little (from the added weight of the diesel and gasoline jerry jugs) and from the full water tank on that side which we had used yet. It took about an hour to clean it and I noticed that the Ameron paint seemed to be holding up well - no growth other than some 'grass' near the waterline. The boat had been in the water now for 4 months and although we had Alexis clean the bottom before we left, I think the paint is doing well so far. There was a large powerboat that came in during the evening (really dumb since he couldn't see the reefs around the island but amazingly he got in OK) and anchored somewhat near the shore. He then proceeded to play loud music that we could hear about 200 yards away. I know that all the other boats could also hear him - it was really obnoxious. He finally quit around 11pm, when we finally got to sleep. During the night, there was very little wind but we were fairly comfortable since I had put up the wind scoop. Unfortunately, the wind generator didn't do anything so the batteries were a bit low in the morning. |