Electrical

• Refrigeration - Adler Barbour Coldmachine: The replacement thermostat is working fine but the unit developed a gas leak in a refrigerant line. I repaired the aluminum pipe with epoxy and whipping twine, then coated everything with epoxy again, but there was no R12 refrigerant available on Bonaire where we had the problem. The technician there filled it with R134a, which is not really compatible with the old compressor but it seems to be working OK so far. I am going to replace the entire system though.
• Depth Sounder - Standard Horizon 35/DST55A inhull transducer: This little unit works just fine. I bought it after the B&G unit packed up and I installed it with an inhull transducer. It picks up the bottom at over 200 feet which is more than sufficient for my needs.
• Radar - Furuno 1720: We left Bonaire and it was working; we arrived at Carenero, Venezuela and it wasn't. It just kept blowing fuses. After checking it, the problem is in the radome and probably the motor that turns the antenna. The unit is 15 years old so I don't think it worth fixing.
• Bilge pump switch - Rule SuperSwitch: The unit was still working fine but I replaced it with a new, electronic one. Unfortunately, they don't make it anymore (called the Bilge Buddy). The only down side (so far) was I had to rewire the entire circuit since the new switch required 3 wires rather than just 2.
• Wind generator - KISS: This still works well under a steady 18 knots but starts to overheat (still) when it reaches 18 knots or so and is constant. I have replacement thermal sensors and will also install a new bearing since its 5 years old now. We'll see if the new sensors/thermostats fix the problem. I've talked to others with the same unit and they haven't seen this problem.

Plumbing

• Stainless steel water tank - The builders installed these tanks before building the rest of the interior so they are very hard to access. Each tank has 2 drains; one with a plastic hose fitting that goes to the manifold and the pressure water system and the other that was simply plugged with some kind of plain steel. Of course, after 21 years, the plain steel plug rusted away causing it to leak. I managed to remove the reminder of the plugs, cleaned the stainless stell tank threads with a pipe tap and inserted a PVC plug, using silicone sealant. It stopped the leak and it should last at least as long as I own the boat.
• Bilge pump - Rule 1500: The pump had worked well since we bought the boat but I noticed that it started running and then stopped after 20-30 seconds. It also stopped pumping any water. I replaced it with a larger Shurflow 1800.

Propulsion

• Outboard engine - Yamaha 15HP Enduro: The prop has a rubber bushing between the aluminum prop itself and the motor shaft. Evidently, the exhaust gases and salt water immersion cause this bushing to get brittle and eventually break, causing the shaft to turn but the prop to spin on the bushing. I had never heard of this before but lots of my friends did. Anyway, I tried a temporary repair by drilling into the aluminum around the busing and inserting 3 self tapping screws through the auminum into the rubber. Unfortunately, the rubber simply tore where the screws penetrated. Luckily, the prop would propel the dinghy at low speed. I replaced the prop with a new one with lower pitch in Bonaire. The lower pitch helps get the inflatable on a plane easier with a heavy load, like dive gear.

Rigging

• Stainless Steel chainplates - I pulled the aft lower chainplate on the port side and found a small crack. It will be replaced as soon as possible. I'll try to get 316L stainless steel but may have to settle for 304. It depends on what is now available in Venezuela.

Hull

• Antifouling Paint - Ameron ABC3: This paint has been on now since May and is working well. There were a few barnacles in one spot on the waterline at the stern but noplace else. So far, I'm pretty happy with it.

Outfitting

• Stove - Hillerange by Seward: The stove and oven work OK but the burners are made of cheap metal that has rusted through on one of them. This means that the propane escapes out of the hole in addition to coming out the burner's openings, wasting propane. I repaired it with JB Weld and the repair seemed to hold. I'll try to replace it when I can.
• Autopilot - Cetrek 770: The hydraulics still work eratically, although it only started when we were on our way back from Bonaire. The system is old so I don't know if its worth spending a lot of money to get it fixed.
• Wet suit repair - Aquaseal: This stuff works on wet suits, dinghies, and just about anything with a rubberized or neoprene base. I've only used it on Diane's wet suit but it really works well to seal holes and hold seams together. I'm sure it would work well on dinghies as well (that's how I first heard about it - from another cruiser). Its a little expensive for large jobs but it also seems to hold up well to sunlight, so it may be worth it.