Impressions - Seating - Smoking - Brezels - Service Charge | Birekultur - History - Variety - Brands | Bierhalles und Bierkeller - Ratskeller MŸnchen - Donisl - Deutsche Eiche - Coming Soon
The image of lederhosen-clad Bavarians drinking beer and eating sausage might apply at the bierhalle, but the space is equally shared by tourists, businessmen, grandma and anyone else who desires refreshment and a good meal.
Beer is the specialty of Bavaria. Beer cellars, beer halls and beer gardens are the tradition. Personally, I'm not a beer drinker, but by the time my trip was over I was doing a 2 beer lunch and a 2 beer dinner! Okay, Munich's "ein Helles" bier really isn't that strong. You'd need to guzzle a few more than 2 glasses to challenge any Münchner (even Grandma).
You won't be greeted by a maitre'd when you enter a Munich beer hall. You're on your own to wander in search of a table. Depending on the time of day this can be quite exhausting. I recommend going at off peak hours to get the best table. Plan your attack well. Avoid small, tucked away rooms, they can be cramped and very smoky.
Some beer halls have long plank style tables where throngs of people sit together to eat, sing, socialize and drink. Most of the 'restaurant' type halls have a variety of different size tables which seat anywhere from 2-16 people or more. No matter what the table size, all tables are communal. "Communal"? This means if 2 people sit at a table for 4, you can expect visitors. Communal dining is a great way to make a new friend and meet the locals. It's not so bad, a polite Münchner will always greet you with a reserved "hallo" when they share your table. Although they can be reserved, feel free to break the ice. Münchners are quit well traveled and very friendly. Most speak perfect English and love to practice it with British and American tourists. Enjoy the social atmosphere, who knows, you might even meet a fellow New Yorker, Parisian or a Florentine.
This is Europe, you cannot avoid it. Yes, bierhallen can be smoky. The is no "non-smoking" section in these large boisterous restaurants. In most of the halls you can find a table in a more open area which can be less smoke filled. As mentioned above, avoid small, tucked away rooms, they can get too smoky. Most of the bierhallen have an outdoor seating area on a plaza or street where you can eat smoke free, weather permitting.
What's the best thing to eat with a tall glass of bier? Brezels (pretzels)! It seems like Bavarian pretzels were created to be enjoyed with Bavarian beer. Real Bavarian pretzels have a golden, chewy crust with a thick, but soft, interior. They are topped with just the right amount of crunchy salt, but not an overwhelming amount like on American versions. Every table in every bierhalle comes with a basket full of fresh brezel, think of them as bread. You can chew on a few with a tall glass of 'ein hellesbier' while you wait for your food. Beware! You will be charged about DM1.50 (about 75¢) for each pretzel you eat. At that price, eat a lot because you'll crave these when you get home.
Tip! On the morning of your departure from Munich, buy a bagful to eat on the jet ride home. If you don't have time to pick some up in the city (all the bakeries carry them), there is a Hofbraü kiosk in the departure lounge of Munich airport where you can pick up a few (at a higher price then in the city).
Tips and service charges are generally not included in the bill. 15% should be sufficient for your server.
Munich acquired it's name - MŸnchen - 'home of the monks' from the many monasteries in the city. Monasteries played an important role in the history by starting the brewing tradition for which the city is renowned worldwide.
The quality of beer brewed in Munich is still based on the Bavarian Beer Purity Law, which forbids the use of anything other than the core ingredients of barley, hops and water in the brewing process. The "Reinheitsgebot" is the oldest food regulation in the world and still exists today unchanged from the original. Under this law preservatives cannot be added - nor are they necessary in a city which can empty a 200 liter cask in 15 minutes. Whether a tourist or Münchner, drinking a tall foamy pint of beer in one of the Munich's beer halls is part what make Munich the most popular destination in Germany.
All the varieties of German and Bavarian beer can be confusing. The casual beer drinker may want to stick to the simple "ein Helles", which is what you'll get if you go to a bierkeller (beer cellar) and simply ask for a "bier". The serious beer drinker may want to upgrade to the "ein Dunkles" or "Hefeweizen".
ein Helles - Normal Bavarian Beer. Translated this means "a bright" which refers to the pale golden color of the brew. This beer is relatively low in alcohol. It's easy to drink two or three without feeling a buzz. Generally every beer hall offers their own brand of "bright beer".
ein Dunkles - Bavarian Dark Beer. Full bodied beer similar to the German beer called Becks.
Bockbier - Traditional German Dark Beer. Medium to full body. Malty sweet character predominates in aroma and flavor with some toasted chocolate malt flavor.
Doppelbock - Full Body Dark Beer. Light to very dark with a malty sweetness evident in aroma. High alcohol flavor.
Eisbock - A stronger, very alcoholic version of Doppelbock. Deep copper to black colored. Very alcoholic. Typically brewed by freezing a doppelbock and removing resulting ice to increase the alcohol content.
Weizerbier, Hefeweizen or Hefeweißbier - Wheat Beer. This style looks a bit cloudy and is brewed from a concentrate of yeast fermented wheat. It's a special taste, not for the casual beer drinker.
Dunkelweizen - Dark Weizerbier. Stronger than Weizerbier. Deep copper to brown color with toasted malt and chocolate-like flavor. Banana and cloves and other flavors may be evident.
Weizenbock - Dark, full body version of Weizerbier. Usually deep copper to dark brown, but light versions can be amber to copper. malty flavor with evident alcohol strength.
Pilsener - Strong pale beer from hops.
Russe - A Russian - Named after the Red Guard who took over the government for a few months in 1918. This is a mix of wheat beer and lemonade. Also called a "Shandy", Alterwasser (old water) or Radlermaß.
Alkoholfreiese Bier - Alcohol Free Beer. For those of you who like beer with your pork knuckles but don't want the alcohol.
Berliner Weiße mit Schuss - beer with a shot of raspberry syrup
There are six breweries in the city: LšwenbrŠu, Augustiner, HofbrŠuhaus, Hacker-Pschorr, Spaten and Paulaner. Each of these breweries have their own bierkeller or biergarten in Munich. Here you can try each beer with breakfast (yes), lunch, dinner or snacks. See DER BIERHALLE UND BIERKELLER for more detailed info about food and location. The links below will lead you to the websight of the brewer. Most have pictures and detailed history about the brewery and description of their beers. A few are only in German, but interesting nonetheless.
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Hofbraühaus
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Spaten
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http://www.spatenbraeu.de (Germany Site) http://www.spatenusa.com (USA Site) |
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Franziskaner
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Wheat Beer made by Spaten |
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Loewenbraü
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Paulaner
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http://www.paulaner.de (Germany Site) http://www.paulaner.com (USA Site) |
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Hacker-Pschorr
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Wheat Beer made by Paulaner |
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Augustiner
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Tip! - A nifty souvenir. When you visit a beer hall in Munich, you always get one of those little round cardboard coasters with the logo of the house beer imprinted on the top. Often there is a stack of them on the table. Why not slip a few in your purse to give to friends at home? At least collect them from each beer hall you visit to passion your scrapbook.
I am not sure if all the listings qualify as true Bavarian "bierhallen", but they all specialize in beer and hearty Bavarian food in a casual, relaxed atmosphere.
Im Rathaus, Marienplatz 8 • Open daily 10am-midnight • http://www.ratskeller.com
Every German town has a Ratskeller located in the basement of the Rathaus (town hall). Munich is no exception. Enter Munich's Ratskeller through the doors on the Marienplatz or use the side door on the Dienerstrasse. Munich's Ratskeller has a nice atmosphere and is furnished with carved, dark wood bench and table style seating. The Ratskeller has lots of nook and crannies under painted vaulted ceilings. Take a walk around and stake out a good table before sitting. The food in this restaurant is good home style Bavarian cooking. I had a look at my notes from the restaurant and I wrote, "I gobble up this food..." The wait staff is very professional and efficient. It fun to watch then run around with trays brimming full of all sorts of sausage, meats, beer and salads. There is a menu available in English.
Of course, I started with a tall ein Hallesbier and a basket of pretzels. The Ratskeller serves Lowenbraü beer. They also give you a tray of flavored mustard to top you pretzels with. I didn't see this at any other bierhalle.
Here's what I ate;
Münchner Salatteller ("Munich" House Salad) - This was a small very attractive plate filled with red leaf lettuce surrounded by a small amounts of grated carrot salad in dressing, cucumber in a dill dressing, German potato salad with caraway seeds and a cabbage slaw type salad. Very good and fresh. DM5.00 (about $2.50)
Grillwürstplatte (Grilled Sausage Plate) - This was a very tempting plate of mixed German sausages. The sausages included were bratwurst, weisswurst and Nürnberger. Nürnberger are small delectable sausages famous in the city of Nürenberg. The sausage was served with sauerkraut and mashed potatoes. German sauerkraut is not as "sour" as our American variety. It has a sweet winey flavor and is seasoned with herbs and sometimes caraway seeds. Overall, this plate was delicious and a "must order" to experience what real German sausage tastes like. DM23.50 (about US$11.75)
ApfelstŸckchen (Apple Fritters) - Apple fritters are a specialty on most German menus. I can't say that they were very inspiring here, but they were still good. DM10.80 (about US$5.50)
Ein Hellesbier (beer) - DM6.20 (about US$3.10)
2 Brezel (pretzels) - DM2.50 (about US$1.25)
Total check - DM48.00 (about US$24.00)
Weinstrasse 1 • Open daily 9am-midnight • http://www.bayerischer-donisl.de
Established in 1715, Donisl is Munich's oldest Beer Hall. Located on the west side of the Marienplatz, the tavern was originally named "Zur alten Hauptwache". In 1760 Dionysius Haertl became the owner of the beer hall and changed the name to "Zum Donisl".
The atmosphere is typical Bavarian with honey colored carved wood furniture and wood paneled walls. Tables range in size to seat anywhere from 2 to 22 people. The restaurant is made up of a series of rooms all varying in size. If you are sensitive to cigarette smoke than I recommend sitting in the large open gallery area in the back of the restaurant. The gallery has a glass skylight which offer's a beautiful view of the famous Frauenkirche. During the evening there is live Bavarian music from 6pm.
The food at Donisl is as Bavarian as Munich. I would easily say this is my favorite Bierhalle in the city. The waitresses are dressed in the typical Bavarian black and white dirndl dresses and most speak good English. They were very happy to assist with the menu and answer questions. Donsil offers an international language menu (including English) and a German menu which has photographs. If you want to see pictures of the food, request the German menu as well as the English version. The English menu doesn't have photos.
The house beer at Donisl is Paulaner Hacker (http://www.paulaner-consult.de) and it is perfect to wash down all the yummy pork, pretzels and sausage served here. Donisl is not the type of place where you would bring a vegetarian to dinner. In fact, I labeled this place a "Pork-o-rama"! In addition to the hanging chandeliers which seem to be made from real deer antler, the sight of heaping platters of meat would make a vegetarian weak.
Here's what I ate;
Brezels - Of course these were delicious. I gobbled down about three with a glass of beer before my meal arrived. 3 Brezels - DM3.60 (about US$.60 ea)
Pork Knuckle with Dumplings - I ordered these because every waitress that walked by had at least two plates of these on their tray. These knuckles were tender and delicious loaded with "fall of the bone" meat. If you like "kracklin" (the pork skin), you will be delighted because these are served with the crispy skin still attached. Some people like the skin, but it's a bit fatty for my taste. The pork was served with two big, fat, round dumplings in a brown sauce. Very tasty. DM12.95 (about US$6.50)
Side Salad - Tender red leaf lettuce served with fresh corn, kidney beans, dill flavoured pickled cucumbers all topped with a delicious dressing. Simple, but good. DM4.80 (about US$2.40)
Apfelstrudel - How could I leave a beer hall without trying their Apple Strudel? In my quest to find the perfect Apple Strudel, I would give Donisl a 6 out of 10. The apple strudel at Donisl was good but not the best I had in Munich. DM7.80 (about US$3.90)
2 beers - DM11.90 (about US$3.00 each)
1 coffee - DM4.00 (about US$2.00)
Total check - DM45.05 (about US$22.50)
Reichenbachstraße 13 • Open daily 8am-midnight • http://www.deutsche-eiche.com
The "Deutsche Eiche" or "German Oak" was built in 1864 and there has been a public bar here since 1882. Deutsche Eiche caters to a predominantly gay and an "arts" oriented clientele. The scene is trendy and social, but be prepared to see a few characters here. The atmosphere is stylish, painted in a soft golden color, lighted intimately with small halogen lights in the ceiling and candles at the tables. Deutsche-Eiche is a bit more intimate than the typical Bavarian beer halls located in the Alstadt (Old Town). As is the standard in Munich, this is a seat yourself restaurant at wood plank tables. Smoking is allowed in the restaurant, but it didn't seem too bad.
The food at Deutsche Eiche is typical Bavarian, nothing fancy, just good hearty food. The prices are very reasonable. You can get a complete meal including beer or wine for under $20. The menu is in German and English along with the waiters who are also bilingual. Service is fast, efficient and friendly. Deutsche Eiche serves a variety of different beer brands as well as wine and cocktails.
Deutsche Eiche is located a short walk from the Viktalienmarkt near the Gartnerplatz.
Here's what I ate;
Schweinebraten (Roast Pork with Dumplings) - This was very simple but very tasty. The pork was tender and juicy. It tasted very fresh. Alongside the pork was two fat round dumplings which were as tender as a noodle. Dumplings are the perfect compliment to roast pork. All this was served in a light tasty brown gravy reduction. DM16.80 (about US$8.40)
Cabbage Salad - This was sort of like sauerkraut, but not half as sour. The cabbage salad had a tangy sweet flavour and was laced with dill seeds. Very refreshing.
Grüner Veltliner (Austrian White Wine) - If you have not tried Austrian wine Germany would be a good place to try it. The flavor of most is usually fruity, dry and crisp. DM8.00 (about US$4.00)
Gerolsteiner Sparkling Mineral Water - 1 bottle - DM7.50 (about US$3.75)
Apfelstrudel - In my continued quest for the perfect apple strudel I would give Deutsche Eiche a 9 out of 10. This was by far the best apple strudel I had in Munich. As I ate it I nearly wept it was so yummy. This is what real German apple strudel tastes like. Deutsche Eiche serves their apple strudel warm, in a custard sauce topped with a sour cherry sauce. DM6.50 (about US$3.25)
Total check - DM38.80 (19.40)
Over the next few month I will be adding reviews for these restaurants. Feel free to visit their websights to get more info. Please check back from time to time to see new listings.
Spantenhaus An der Opera - Residenzstraße 12 - http://www.kuffler-gastronimie.de
Nürnberger Bratwurst Glockl am Dom - Frauenplatz 9
Zum Franziskaner - Perusastraße 6
Hofbraühaus - Platzl 9 - http://www.hofbraeuhaus.de (the sight has a webcam!)
Augustiner - Neuhauserstraße 27 - http://www.augustiner-restaurant.com
Alois Dallmayr - Dienerstrasse 14-15 - http://www.dallmayr.de (goumet food store with restaurant)
Der Viktualienmarkt - This is an outside market sort of a mini Octoberfest. There are stands selling everything from beer to honey wine, fruits, cheese and meats. Lots of stuff to taste. You can also get a good lunch at one of the multiple food stands selling beer, sausages and other good food. Fun!
