Kutch - Introduction

During the dry season, the Rann is a vast expanse of hard, dried mud.  Then, with the start of monsoon sometime in May, it is flooded first by sea water, then by the fresh river water.  Kutch is also separated from the rest of Gujarat to the east by the Little Rann of Kutch.

The salt in the soil makes this low-lying marsh area almost completely barren.  Only on scattered 'islands' above the salt level is there vegetation in the form of coarse grass, which provides fodder for the region's sparse wildlife.  These grasslands are under threat from the gando baval plant which is spreading across the Rann of Kutch at an alarming rate, threatening to destroy fragile ecosystems.

The Indus River once flowed through Kutch until a massive earthquake in 1819 altered its course, leaving behind a salt desert.  The destructive earthquake in January, 2001 similarly altered the fabric of Kachchhi life.

The villages of the Kutch region have long been renowned for their distinctive and high-quality handicraft (especially exquisite, mirrored embroidery).  These handicraft, and the traditional Kachchhi culture which they represent, were also preserved by a number of cooperatives aimed at ensuring that the craftspeople got a fair cut of the profits.  These included the Kutch Mahila Vikas Sangathan, an organization comprising 4000 rural women that pays members a dividend of the profits and in-needs, Shrujan, the Kala Raksha Trust and Kutchcraft, the local representatives for SEWA.  While the communities that ran these orgainzations have been devastated, you may come across outlets for these groups set up elsewhere in the state of Gujarat to assist the relief effort.

As they surrounded the epicenter of the earthquake, many of Kutch's villages were razed by the quake, with entire villages wiped off the map.  For the foreseeable future, most will be off limits to travelers.  As the region recovers, all requests for permission to visit should be directed to the Office of the District Superintendent of Police (Foreigners Registration Office|) in Bhuj.

Bhuj 

Prior to the earthquake in January 2001, Bhuj was one of the highlights of any visit to Gujarat.  This old, partially-walled city was an intricate maze of streets and alleys with attractive crenellated gateways, old palaces and brightly decorated Hindu Temples.  It was also the ideal base for exploring the tribal villages of the Kutch region.

It will be a long time before Bhuj and the entire Kutch region will be in position to handle the arrival of tourists.  Its tourist infrastructure was destroyed and the limited resources available in the quake's aftermath will neccessarily be dedicated to rebuilding the lives and homes of those who remain.

It is not known which, if any, of Bhuj's tourist attractions remained intact.  Most of Bhuj's architectural highlights were concentrated in the demolished old city.  These once included the beautiful Aina Mahal (Old Palace) with its exqusite Hall of Mirrors and, just outside the city walls, Kachchh Museum dating from 1877 - the oldest museum in Gujarat.  Some royal tombs or chhatris south-west of Hamrisar Tank were also reduced to rubble.  Remarkably, some eyewitness accounts suggest that the distinctive sandstone clock tower of the Prag Mahal (New Palace), right in the heart of the old city, is still standing.

Around Bhuj

The new town of Gandhidham, near Kandla, was established to take refugees from the Sind following partition.  Gandhidham was similarly hard hit by 2001 earthquake.  The town has never contained much of interest to the traveler although in time it will once again become the railhead for neighbouring Bhuj.

Mandvi

Mandvi, was prior to the earthquake, being promoted as a beach resort, and the beach is generally good, long and clean, although, as many town along the coast, pollution is an increasing problem.  The cleaner sections are away from the wind farm, down by the temple.  The town also has a long history of shipbuilding.  Mandvi is a pleasant seaside town with friendly people, and is a good place to unwind.  Remarkably, Mandvi remained relatively unscathed by the earthquake whcih ravaged Bhuj, a mere 60km to the north-east.  Previously, Kutch and the city of Bhuj were the only gateway for Mandvi and with such widespread damage to the region's roads, Mandvi will be difficult to reach for some time to come.  That will change if the much-talked-about ferry between Mandvi and Jamanagar ever gets under way.

Places to Stay and Eat

Rukmavati Guest House is an eccentric but enjoyable hotel which is still operating.  Clean singles/doubles are Rs. 150/300 (bucket hot water), dorms are a steep Rs. 100; checkout in 24 hours. You could also try Maitri Guest House (Bunder Road), which has been recommended by travelers.  Clean rooms with bathroom and hot water cost Rs. 150/200. Sahara Guest House , in the town center, is also good.  Rooms going for Rs. 100/175 come with hot water and TV. Zobra the Buddha, in the heart of the city, a good place for cheap thalis (Rs.30).

Little Rann of Kutch

The Little Rann of Kutch, the barren expanse of 'desert' (actually salt plains) which divides Gujarat's western region of Kutch from the rest of Gujarat, was described by one traveler as "a striking desert of mud, salt and mirages".  It is home to the last remaining population of khur (Asiatic wild ass) in India.  There is also a large bird population, particularly of lesser flamingoes; The area is one of the few places in India, where flamingos are known to breed naturally.  Both are protected in the 4953 sq km Little Rann Sanctuary, which is approached from Dhrangadhra. The Asiatic wild ass, of which there are around 2100 in the sanctuary, survives off the flat, grass-covered expanses or islands, known as bets, which springs up during the monsoon.  This remarkable creature is capable of running at an average speed of 24km/h for up to two hours and can even reach the speeds of 70 km/h over shorter distances The small town of Zainbad, 105 km north-west of Ahmedabad, is very close to the Little Rann of Kutch.  Desert Coursers (+91 2757 41333); in Ahmedabad (+91 79 6752883) is a family run tour company that organises interesting safaris and cultural tours in the Little Rann.  Prices are about Rs. 1900 per day. The same family run Camp Zainabad, offering kooba (traditional thatch-roofed huts) with private bathroom in a peaceful settings.  It costs about Rs. 1800 per person per night, including breakfast and dinner and unlimited safaris.  These self contained huts are basic but comfortable.

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