Neutralizers
What are these? They are products often used by stage people to hide unwanted
colors in the skin, including that blue color from the beard area. They come in
color ranges from #1 (lightest) on up. I use two kinds of neutralizer from Ben
Nye ( Joe Blasco is another good
product line . . ). First the RED neutralizer helps cover red in the skin (
usually around the cheek, nose and forehead ). Apply using a wedge sponge. Lightly
dampen the sponge before to allow the product to go on more smoothly. Only use
enough red neutralizer to opaquely cover the red zones. We will be blending in
with foundation later. For the beard area, use a blue neutralizer that is close
to your foundation color or slightly lighter (I use #2). Again with a dampened
wedge sponge applicator apply liberally, but not thickly into beard area with a pushing and
smoothing stroke (you may even hear your beard rub against the sponge . . yes
firmly). If your beard is not totally covered, don't worry, we will be blending
with foundation next.
Foundation
Yes, you guessed it, choose a foundation close to your natural skin color. Test
foundation color on the neck below the ear or directly on your cheek. Natural
sunlight is best for testing color match. A
little darker is ok. Lighter gives you that mime look. I like to use a round
sponge here for faster coverage. Don't forget to dampen the sponge first. Apply
the foundation everywhere from the hairline to just below the neckline where
your clothing will be. Do the eyelids, partly into the nose, lips and ears where
they will show. Blend in with a moderately heavy stroke where you've used
neutralizers to even the color. We want a uniform color and texture when we are
done. Got it? Pay special attention to areas where you have furrows, folds or
deep wrinkles. ( I use Ben Nye Medium Olive or Cover Girl Ultimate finish in
Honey Beige; both are creams, so they go on smoothly and blend easily) If you
want to use highlighting and shading do it after the foundation and before
applying powder. Its not necessary unless you want to be photographed or appear
good from a distance. Remember its only a visual effect and not truly changing
your face. Highlighting is used to punch out those areas you want to appear
raised, like the bag line below the eyes or creases on the forehead. Yellow
highlighter works very well. Apply with an angle tipped brush only into the
depressed area you want to raise. Tap in lightly with a clean wedge sponge and
again with your foundation sponge to blend. The area should be slightly lighter
that the rest of your face. Shading is used to make an area appear recessed.
Mostly we use shading to hide that male jaw. Use a shading a little darker than
the foundation (I use chestnut brown) apply using a narrow flat brush just below
the jaw line back where it hinges forward to where the chin starts and blend
slightly above near the tip of the ear. Not too heavy now! Tap blend with your
foundation until only slightly darker than the rest of your face, pulling down
the neck.
As an alternative to special shading and highlighting products, foundations one
or two shades from your base foundation maybe used in the same manner.
Powder
Powder sets the foundation. Use a translucent loose powder and apply with a
velour puff. I use Cover Girl powder. The puff I use is about 3 1/2 inches
across and is available at most theatre and beauty supply shops. First load the
puff, that is, get it choke full of powder. How? Place about a teaspoon of
powder on the puff. Fold the puff over the powder and roll the puff back and
forth until nearly all the powder disappears. Dump excess back into the powder
container. Pat on the powder everywhere you put foundation. Patting and rolling
helps get an even and complete covering of powder and that's the goal, an even
appearance. Reload the puff as necessary. Let the powder set for a few minutes,
then gently whisk off any excess with a large powder brush. I said gently!
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More Makeup topics |
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| Preparing the Face | Eye Makeup |
| Blush | Lashes |
| Brows | Lips |
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Other Topics |
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| Wig Selection | Hand and Nail Care |
| Wig Care | Problem Nail Tips |
| Pedicure Tips | The Manicure |
| Foot Care Secrets | |
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