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Peters Front End Rebuild |
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Here is the view of the completed assembled front end. The before picture was not this pretty but it didn't come out. The top and bottom A-arms are powdercoated a silver gray (cast aluminum) color as are the caliper brackets. The spindle and steering knuckle is coated in cast. The aluminum colored parts have a smooth finish but the spindle is a rough finish material as is the actual pre-coated surface. The cast finish looks exactly like freshly casted parts, except no rust. |
| Here is the view with drilled rotors on. They are Autospecialty rotors purchased through Summit for $90/ea., I got a price for the factory drums at $70. You can also see the Hellwig 1 5/16" sway bar with polygraphite link bushings. All control arm bushings are polygraphite also, but did not give the harder ride like the rear bushings did. |  |
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Here you can see the new caliper installed. This is painted with engine paint as powdercoating requires complete disassembly. So far it has held up great, its painted with Kraylon Ceramacoat engine paint in a ford engine blue that matches the body color quite good. The springs are also painted in a cast color with the same type of paint. You can also see the braided brake line. This was $65 dollars a pair and a factory rubber price of $45...so what the heck. |
| Here is the finished product!! I think
the arms look great even though I was told to leave them black,
I hate average. If I wanted average I would have a chevy. |
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| The results are great and I must say one of the best improvements I have ever made...this thing actually stops as well as it goes. The main parts were scavenged off my brothers junker `72 chevelle. The spindles were used while the rest was basically used as core charges on new parts. Everything was bought new (or rebuilt) except for the power booster. One month later after finishing the project, the booster was also replaced as it leaked vacuum giving an uneven boost (sometimes holding the pedal down). I sprayed the booster with body colored paint and cleared it. This looks great and cheaper than the gold tone plating. |
| PRICE LISTS |
| Part | Price |
| Spindles, caliper brackets & steering brackets (brothers junked chevelle) | FREE |
| Powdercoating of parts (traded for carb rebuild) | FREE |
| Front End Kit (PSC)
-Outer & inner tie rod ends -Upper & lower ball joints -Idler Arm -Polygraphite control arm bushings (upper & lower) -Polygraphite swaybar bushings & links -1 5/16" swaybar (Hellwig) |
$385.90 |
| Brake Lines (Inline Tube)
-Stainless Steel, 4-line kit for `72 (not factory 5-line with valve under booster) |
$90.00 |
| Flex Line (Inline Tube)
-Braided Stainless Steel flex line from frame to caliper |
$65.00 |
| GM proportioning valve (disk/drum) | $85.00 |
| Drilled Rotors (Summit) | $87.99 ea. |
| Master cylinder - new w/999 month war. (AutoZone)
-$33.99 + $7.50 core charge (core from previous vehicle) |
$33.99 |
| Brake caliper - reman. w/lifetime replacement (Advance Auto Parts)
-$19.99ea. + $19.00ea. core charge (core from previous vehicle) |
$19.99 ea. |
| Power Booster (AutoZone)
-$76.70 + $24.00 core charge (core from previous vehicle) |
$76.70 |
| As you can see, it is important to take as many of the parts from the
donor car for core charges when buying new parts. The total price
can be reduced slightly if you don't go with the braided flex lines and
the drilled rotors. Also if the donor parts are known to work the
may not need replacement. I did not want to play with old stuff and
decided to replace everything including the proportioning valve.
There are various kits out there now that give you all the brake hardware parts for around $800. This way you don't have to search for a donor car or shop for pricing on other parts. |
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