May 22 Goleen

Day 14 - Wednesday, May 22, 2002

We headed south out of Kenmare. The road to Glengarriff was being beaten up by some pretty heavy construction but we got through OK. Despite heavy overcast, the ride is wonderful. You are surrounded by the Caha Mountains as you wind your way up to Caha Pass. As you approach the summit, you pass through two tunnels that seem to just jut out into the road. We had to park in the road to take these pictures, but it was worth it. Just after you reach the summit, you meet Turner's Rock Tunnel. This tunnel is much more substantial, but certainly no more picturesque. The views along this drive are astounding and the road is not stupidly narrow. There are not as many places to stop as you would like, but we were getting hit pretty hard with some rain, so we didn't care as much this time.

Just after we came through the second tunnel we noticed a beautiful alpine lake in the distance. "Wouldn't that be nice to see" we thought. "Ah, but it's off on some out of the way road that we'll never find." No sooner had we uttered such words, we saw a tiny road exiting to the right. Well, it was narrow, steep and there was no indication where it lead, so of course, we had to take it.

As we looked across the valley, we could see a very steep, narrow road ascending the other side. It was clear that this was where we were headed. The picture on the left shows (however inadequately), a thin line that is the road that descends from the main road (N71). The rain was blowing in my face too hard to get a picture as we descended from N71. It was more terrifying.

The road descends into a small town and then climbs very quickly back out. It eventually winds it's way to the top of a hill and a tiny (and muddy at the time) car park. We trudged our way across the rocks and mud and were treated to a wonderful view of Barley Lake and the surrounding countryside. The clouds had cleared just enough for us to enjoy our walk. From the top of this hill, could could see in all directions. I would recommend this place to everyone except the drive is harrowing and not for the timid. We only saw one other car the whole time which was fortunate, because there were quite a number of spots where someone would have to back up a substantial distance to get by. We did of course, have to get passed the sheep herder, his dog and the flock.

We made our way down the hill and found the road to Glengarriff which prevented us from having to go back up the first steep hill. This takes you through a beautiful forest area filled with hiking trails. On a clearer day, this would have been a great place to hike. But we were on a mission to get to Goleen.

We continued down through Bantry, catching glimpses of Bantry Bay as we went. After Bantry we decided to take a "little" diversion onto Sheep's Head peninsula. This is probably the least traveled of the peninsulas in the southwest but is worth the drive. We missed the first turnoff (which may have been just as well) but caught the road that branches off to Sheep's Head in one direction and Mizen in the other. The further you travel on the road to the point, the smaller the road gets. We finally reached the car park and started to take what we thought was a short walk to the point. Well, lot's of false summits and the weather was working on getting terrible. At last, Felicity, suffering from her cold, decided to head back. I forged on and was actually able to walk right up to the lighthouse. If you make the trip, staying to the left on your way out will give you a view of some spectacular cliffs. Photos would not do them justice. The wind was howling out to sea, so I decide not to take the cliff route all the way around to the point. This is another beautiful walk, probably 30 minutes each way. Good weather would be a plus.

We left Sheep's Head and headed back the way we came. It seemed much easier than the back road and made the trip to Goleen much quicker. Just after leaving the car park we met with the only time the narrow roads became a problem. We came face to face with a car and there was no room on either side to pass. I ended up backing up the hill about ¼ mile and finally found just enough room for the other car to get around. They had enormous smiles on their faces, but that may have had something to do with the fact that they weren't on the cliffs edge when they passed. We survived as you can see.

We made it into Goleen and I found the Heron's Cove with ease. I actually remembered the directions from 4 years earlier. We got our room that looked out over the bay and at least the tide was partially in. The rooms are very nice and comfortable. This was the first B&B Felicity and I stayed in so it had a good memory. For some reason, we weren't as charmed with the owner. She was a bit gruff.

Goleen is not filled with fabulous restaurants, so we decided to make the trip to Crookhaven to find the pub that we had enjoyed the late morning and afternoon at 4 years earlier. This time, Felicity picked it out. You see, there are 2 pubs in Crookhaven. O'Sullivan's Pub is the place.

We walked in and realized that the food selections were marginal, but we were starved so we each ordered a sandwich and a drink. We both noticed at the same time that the bartender looked familiar, so we stepped back up to the bar and asked if she might have been working at the pub in November of 1998. "Oh sure" was her answer. We were positive at that point and struck up a conversation with her while another gentleman prodded her with jokes about stealing all the whiskey. We sat down when the food arrived and enjoyed the sandwiches. A little while latter, the gentleman at the bar approached us, sat down and started chatting. He told us he was Billy O'Sullivan and we managed to put 2+2 together and figure out his relationship to the bar. As it turned out, he was "retired" and his son had taken over managing the place. He continued with tales of the place and his life and we interjected a few of our own. Finally, Felicity asked him how long he had owned the bar. Well, he pointed at the ceiling a said "I was born up there in 1937!". It seems his parents (whose pictures are on the walls with other family members) have owned the place for ages and they, as he had done, turned the pub over to their son. OK, if you're looking for a real Irish Pub, this is the one. You can't beat that kind of history.

As we were sitting and talking, a call came in from his son who lives further out on the peninsula. An enormous yacht was coming in and he suggested we all get out to watch it. Well, of course, the pub emptied and we watch watched as this ship, flying the Union Jack, came in and tied up. It was all the buzz. After admiring from outside just long enough to realize the weather was again turning foul, we went back in and enjoyed the view from the window. After quite a bit more chatting, and generous offers of free drinks from Billy, we decided it was time to go.

Billy decided that we had to see his new home that had been only recently completed. We stepped outside and and when he realized we had a car full of luggage just said "Don't worry, I'll run ahead". So here is this 64 year old man, running up the hill in a windy, blinding rain storm, and we youngsters following along in the trusty Micra. I hope I'm in that kind of shape when I'm 64. He gave us a tour of the entire house, the last stop being the dining room where he just happened to have Murphy's on tap. The view of the bay was wonderful! Well, another couple of pints were poured, Felicity had some more wine and we jabbered on until his wife called him from the pub to tell him dinner was ready. So he jogged back to the pub and we made the drive back to The Heron's Cove. We had been to O'Sullivan's twice and had two of the most memorable experiences of our trips. This, we decided, was our pub.

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