Rome is a fast moving city filled with culture, life, art and people. The best advice I have to offer is "be prepared"! Read the guidebooks, surf the web and ask questions.
[arrival]
You survived your painful flight across the Atlantic. You have severe jet lag, your neck hurts, you look awful and have not had much sleep. While Rome is waking up, you seem to want to go to bed. What next?
Assuming
that you have arrived by jet, you will be making your way to baggage claim.
Fiumicino is not the most modern and certainly not the most beautiful airport
in Europe. The atmosphere is reminiscent of Newark Airport, except that this
is a smoking airport. The smell and haze of cigarette smoke reminds you that
you are not in America. This is just the beginning of you adventure in a land
where the cigarette still rules.
You've
waited a what seemed a lifetime in the haze for your luggage and it has arrived
safely. Now you are ready to head for customs. In Fiumicino, customs is a
small formality and you may not even realize you have passed through it. Please
don't disturb the cigarette smoking customs agents for silly things like passport
stamps, they may search you luggge to see if you brought in more than you
personal allowance of 10 rolls of film. But don't worry, they allow you to
bring in 400 cigarettes! Should you bring in an excess of 400, they confiscate
them and smoke them.
[airport transportation]
Time to leave the airport. You have three options to get to your hotel in Rome, all will probably take about an hour depending on the time of day, traffic and weather. For two people traveling together will average between $25-30 each, except for option 3. Remember, this is part of your adventure.
That's
about $50, and I would count on it being on the high side of $50. The driving
style of Italian cab drivers will scare you to death. They actually make
New York City cabbies look courteous. Hold tight and enjoy the ride, you
will laugh about it later! 
For
the Adventurous - After departing customs,
follow the signs for the short walk to the train station. As you enter the
main hall of the station, look for the small ticket room next to the tabacchi
shop. Here you can purchase a ticket for the nonstop trip to Roma Termini
on Ferrovie dello Stato (the Italian state run railway). Trains run once
every hour and cost about $6. There are also self serve ticket machines
which dispense tickets, but they don't have directions in English. The main
hall of the station also has a convenient ATM located across from the ticket
office.
The train ride to Roma Termini takes about 30 minutes and travels through the uninspiring suburbs of Rome. Your arrive at Roma Termini will be equally as uninspiring as you join all of humanity yearning to get where they are going. It also looked like some humanity was living in the station as well. Grab your luggage and belongings firmly, make like a linebacker and head for the exit marked with the universal symbol of a taxicab. From this point you can take a taxi to your hotel for around $25 or less. Remember to only accept a ride from official taxis at the taxi stand.
Whichever
transportation option you select, somewhere upon exiting the autostrade or
on the Via Nationale exiting the train station a sight will catch your eye.
You will forget your jet lag and come alive with this eternal city and realize
"Siete in Roma!" You are in Rome!
[public transportation]
We walked everywhere in Rome and never used buses or taxis. Of course all we had left were bloody stumps, but we saw all the sights! Rome is a walkers city, there is always a sight to see around every corner. The public transportation system in Rome was about efficient as public transportation in Los Angeles. In Los Angeles when we want to get somewhere, we drive. In Rome, you walk. The subway route is limited to two lines criss crossing the city and is limited since it doesn't reach all neighborhoods or major sights. It's not real attractive either. I don't really remember seeing a bus or even a bus stop. I know there are buses, but they must stick to the main avenues since all the other streets are so small they can barely fit a car. This is not a bad thing, wouldn't you rather walk and discover the shops, sights and all the little piazzas in between? Besides if your feet get tired, there are cafes everywhere to stop for a break.
[trains]
A good websight for train schedules is «Rail Europe». http://www.raileurope.com/us/rail/fares_schedules/index.htm. In Europe it is best to reserve seats on trains in advance. If you know your plans, get your tickets from Raileurope before you leave home. You can also get rial tickets from a local travel agent. You can also buy tickets once you arrive in Italy at any travel agent or rail station. Most trains have first and second class seats. The second class seat are very comfortable and a good value. First class is a bit more luxurious, but I'm not sure if it's worth the extra Lire. All trains have smoking and non smoking cars. Unless you smoke heavily, I would avoid the smoking cars! Trains in Italy, and Europe, also serve refreshments and light food onboard, some even have nice restaurant cars. What fun to have lunch on the train as you watch the Italian countryside pass by!
[city names]
When connecting at European airports and rail stations, remember to look for the city name in its native language. Here are some samples names of Italian cities in the Italian language;
[prices]
Rome is not a cheap city, nor is it expensive. You can eat an average priced meal in a Trattoria or inexpensively at a cafeteria type restaurant. It's up to you! Some people prefer to eat a big lunch and a small dinner. Prices are generally cheaper at lunchtime. Prices for Italian clothing can be very expensive, far higher priced than our American standards like Gap and The Limited. A few trinkets and souvenirs can be a nice memento of your trip. Yes, there is McDonalds in Rome.
[ATM's]
I remember when you had to carry travelers checks and cash when you visited Europe. Modern technology has brought us the ATM and made it easy to get money abroad. ATM cards are perfect for getting Lire at a lower exchange rates, without fees, then at banks or exchange bureaus. Italian ATM's only accept a 4 digit pin number. If your card has more than 4 digits, change it at your bank before departing. There are ATM machines in the airport and everywhere else throughout Rome. Most ATM machines speak a variety of European languages including English. Before leaving check with you bank to make sure there are no hidden fees for using an ATM abroad. I would also exchange some dollars to Lire prior to departure in case the ATM in the airport isn't working or doesn't accept your card.
[credit cards]
Paying for purchases using a credit card is also a good way to get the best exchange rate for your dollar. Most credit card companies convert the price paid from Euros to dollars using the most current exchange rates. American Express offers the best conversions since they don't charge a international 'conversion' fee. Many Visa and Mastercard banks convert the charge at the current rate plus a 2-5% conversion rate fee. Call your bank prior to departure to find out their policy. Even at a 5% transaction conversion rate, it is still a better deal than converting cash at an exchange bureau. Most hotels, restaurants and shops accept the standard range of credit cards. Smaller shops and restaurants sometimes don't. Check before eating or shopping! Many European merchants impose a minimum charge to use a credit card (around $15) or will frown upon using a credit card for a small purchase. This is not a credit oriented society.
[see]
Rome will keep you busy. The Coliseum, Piazza Navona, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, Vatican, etc. Buy a good guide book. My favorite for Rome is «Fieldings Rome Agenda». This book was small enough to carry in a backpack or small bag. It is arranged by neighborhood and had good info about the shops, sights and restaurants. It also includes a section on hotels, excursions and entertainment. The book is published at $16.95, but if you send me an Email (richardab@mac.com), I will tell you where you can get this and other books at real bargain prices.
[guidebooks]
Fodors and Frommers books are good standard guidebooks. I prefer Frommers. Have you seen the «Cheap Eats» and «Cheap Sleeps» series of books by by Sandra A. Gustafson? These are great for hotel and restaurant recommendations. Send me an Email (richardab@mac.com) and I will tell you where you can get these and other books at real bargain prices.
[a great idea]
I photocopy the best parts of the books I like and take only the photocopy with me. A photocopy of some important pages is easier to pack and when I'm through, I toss the photocopy. This is far less heavy than carrying a fat book.
[the vatican city]
If you are planning to see the Vatican (and you should) go early in the day and head directly for the Sistine Chapel when you arrive. Lines for the Sistine Chapel are long and crowds are thick. A visit inside St Peters Cathedral will be an experience you will remember forever. The size and mass of the interior is overwhelming. Don't forget to visit the outside top of the dome. It is reached by an elevator, then a lot of stairs. Its a strenuous climb, but the view of Rome from the top is breathtaking.
[your safety]
I feel obligated to say, "Hold tight to you money and valuables while traveling abroad". Where NY and other big American cities have their muggings, Rome and Europe have pickpockets. They can strike in a flash and you won't even know what hit you! These clever urchins can lift a wallet from a front pocket, travelers checks from a purse and jewelry from around your neck. I bet they would steal you underwear if you didnŐt tuck you shirt in. The most popular way of operating seems to be on crowded buses and at popular tourist sights. The "cattle car" bus which travels from the Roma Termini to the Vatican is the #1 place to experience this crime. One of the methods they use to relieve you of your valuables is to have a young child approach you and wave a newspaper directly in your face. While you are trying to figure out what is going on, the little urchins Mommy is in you pockets helping herself. I don't get it. If somebody came up to me and waved a newspaper in my face I would tell them to get the hell away from me, but maybe that's the New Yawker in me.... The moral of the story is to practice common sense. Personally, I would recommend leaving excess money, passports and credit cards in the hotel safe. Carry only as much money as you are willing to lose.
[walking]
Being
a pedestrian in Rome is a daring experience. This is not a place where the
pedestrian has the right of way. Cars never stop when you step into a crosswalk
and you will often walk in the narrow street with cars inching between you
and the parked traffic. The large avenues have narrow sidewalks but most
of the small alleys and side streets have none. If you think Italian automobile
drivers are out of control, the scooters and vespas are worse! They drive
like Evil Knevil daredevils weaving in and out of the slow traffic and parked
cars. When traffic is heavy they will drive on the sidewalk and cut through
the foot traffic! But for that matter, when the sidewalk is crowded, the
pedestrians extend the sidewalk by walking in the street. This, added with
the narrow streets, merges pedestrian with vehicle in a way that you never
imagined! Its sounds scary, but its fun.
[crossing the street, rome style]
You will soon realize that in Rome, they do it different. They eat different, look different and talk different. The next lesson is crossing the street. There is no rule to crossing the street. You just cross. It sounds simple, but it's as simple as driving on the left side of the road for an American in London. Here is some guidelines for crossing the street, Roman style;
Stand on the curb and survey the traffic pattern. Look determined.
Step into the street and stand firm with your head up high and shoulder firmly positioned to let the drivers know you are in charge and intend on crossing that street.
Be bold, step out, start crossing. Use the corners of your eye to watch the traffic as you aggressively cross the busy street. Don't look any driver in the eye or at the other tourists cowering on the corner, this surly would provoke a challenge.
Have no fear and don't make any sudden changes in your footwork the traffic will not stop, they will drive around you.
Should you feel threatened, yell out, "cretano!" and wave your right hand passionately in the air at the drivers.
When in doubt, run for the opposing corner! Buoa Fortuna!
[speaking italian]
Learn a bit of Italian. Its just good manners. Most younger Italians speak English but if you approach in Italian, people will be more polite. Don't worry they will know right away you don't speak Italian and reply to you in English. Italian is easy, just say each word as it is spelled. Pronounce every letter, even vowels at the end of a word. Say everything with passion and use your hands so they know what you're talking about! Here are some easy examples;
Don't forget you time of day greetings!
Learn some basic phrases, food names and numbers and you will be speaking Italiano like a native!
[smoking]
This
is not California. Benvenuto ad Italia, where the non-smoker is the minority.
Italians smoke everywhere! In shops, restaurants, in the restaurant kitchen,
on trains, in the hotel, airport and anywhere else they can. 
DonŐt
be surprised if a salesperson or waiter is smoking while helping you. There
is no way to avoid the huff and puff of the locals so forget about it and
enjoy your vacation.
[sending postcards]
There
are three options for mailing postcard from Rome, the fast way and the slow
way;
The Fast Way - Prepare your postcards in advance and mail them using the Vatican Post Office. The Vatican operates a mail service separate from the Italian government system. Generally it is more reliable and service is much faster. You must buy stamps and mail them in an official Vatican mailboxes located only in the Vatican City.
The
Slow Way - 
«Poste Italiane» is your second option. I am sure they mean
well, but you will arrive home long before your postcards (if they ever
arrive).
Another Way - Mail them from the airport when you get home, using local postage, of course.
[lunchtime]
From what the guidebooks tell you you would think that the entire city was closed during the lunch hour! I really didn't notice that many shops closed from 1-4 for lunch. Although I hear this practice is more visible in the small cities outside Rome. Do yourself a favor, stop and have lunch anyway.
[fast food]
At many fast food counter style restaurants or cafeterias, you must first pay for you food at the cashier, then pick up you order at the counter. Italians don't really wait in line, so when you walk up to the counter.
[rest rooms]
Don't worry about using a rest room in a cafe or restaurant even if you didn't make a purchase. By law they must let you use it and give you a free drink of tap water if you need it.
[mtv]
We love Italian MTV! Watch MTV Italia as you get ready in the morning. This is MTV the way it use to be, remember when they use to play music videos? Brush up on the latest music and videos from Europe and also hear that yukky Ricky Martin and Madonna, too. The VJ's are unpretentious and actually seem to be having fun.
[strikehhh!]
The ever-present possibility of a strike is always a threat in major European cities. Italy is no exception. For reasons unbeknownst to you, wildcat strikes can happen on anything from taxis to public transportation. On our last day in our hotel, the front desk staff announced to us that we would be on our own because they would be going on strike (pronounce the 'e' on the end as 'ehhhh', 'strikehhhh'), "too many guests in the hotel", they exclaimed. After they saw our faces drop, they told us they were joking. We laughed, nervously...
[one last tip]
Don't
leave Italy without doing everything you want to do. You will regret it
when you get home! See the sights. Enjoy the food. Have real espresso. Sit
in a cafe. Drink a Campari and soda. Have some real pizza. Enjoy Italian
wine. Have a pastry. Eat something new. Vive La Dolce Vita!
SINCE
JANUARY 2001
