Weatherly Sailing Adventures

Weatherly sailing in Thailand

Log Book

Journal of voyage


Chans Anchorage, Kampong Bahru
Chan's anchorage, upriver from Lumut





riding bike through coconut forest to Chan's Anchorage
riding bike through coconut forest to Chan's Anchorage





Alternator repair, Sitiawan
Alternator "testing", Tat Meng's Sitiawan




market farms, Kampong Sitiawan
market farms, Kampong Sitiawan





drying fish on side of road
drying fish on side of road, Lumut town

9th - 23rd November

Lumut and Kampong Bahru

Arrived at KL airport early in morning, so caught a direct taxi to Lumut from KL for 250RM (the sharks in ties hovering around taxi counter wanted 350RM - Aus $1 = RM2.40). Didn't want the ordeal of swapping between trains and buses and poor connection times. Last time it took me 8hrs and lots of waiting in smoggy bus stations. So chatted away to the independent taxi driver, and was at Chan's anchorage, near Kampong Bahru just after daybreak.

When I arrived on my boat, I was disappointed to discover that my four, expensive Deep Cycle Trojan batteries were completely dry. I had asked Chan to keep them topped up, to maintain their life. Unfortunately, he believed they were the dry cell type, due to the different caps, and did not accept responsibility for killing my batteries. May cost me another RM1,600 in Penang to replace all 4. I installed a new Balmar "Smart Charger" to try to revive them, so far to no avail. May try the Equalisation mode if I get daring enough.

The next drama was the fridge water pump, which I believed to be with Ding Dings foundry. I gave it to them before I left so they could complete a job for me to make a new cap to use O-rings, rather than my older style packing gland. Dad had kindly bought and sent some packing to me as a backup - as I couldn't locate any the right size in Sydney or Sitiawan. The manageress of Ding Dings lost the job she finished for me, and didn't have the whole pump assembly either, which she said was given back to me. It's not on my boat, so I have my doubts. Was also frustrated I can't remember what happened with it, I was in such a hurry when I left in June. Another expensive disappointment. Luckily Mr Hou, the very competent engineer who rebuilt my motor in 2000, had a spare Jabsco pump. I measured up and had an extension bracket fabricated to align the pump. Ordered new V-belts and spares after a few trial and errors on the size. Now it works beautifully - no more salt water dripping in the bilge either, but at a cost of RM1,300.

Next, was trouble starting the engine. Removed the starter motor and took it to a battery shop. Tat Meng's crude method of testing it was to clasp battery leads to the terminals, and after a big blue spark, let it spin for 3 minutes until smoke came out of it. I never let my starter run for so long in one burst, so wondered if this technique finished it off. After RM360 more, and a new armature, I tried it on my engine. A bit of improvement, it started after 5-10 seconds, instead of 15 seconds and several crankings, so guess he was right. Not real confident with him as he didn't even have any meters, just a selection of small lamps to test voltages.

Replaced the starter, but was still troubled by slow take up. Got Michael to try adjusting the timing, not much improvement. Took the glow plugs out and reconnected them externally to see if they glowed. Only 2 did after 30secs, and the plug voltages were lower than the plug ratings. Eventually found a loose connection from the starter switch, which was hard to see and harder to remove. Now kicks over after 1-2 seconds. Phew !

I always had trouble with the anchor chain slipping under load, due to the new heavier guage chain I bought for the boat had slightly longer links than the original stainless steel chain. At first Long Chong's foundry said it was "impossible" to improve the windlass wildcat, but after drawing a picture, and suggesting how it could be modified he understood. After the right money was agreed to be paid it turned out to be possible afterall. Long Chong also replaced a nylon roller andI bent back back the anchor chain jaws, both had been damaged while away. The new anchor chain rollers have a centre groove, which should work much better than the originals which are curved.

Now I'm on anchor in the small town of Lumut, after finishing most of what was neccessary at Chan's using his motorbike. There are too many flies and dogs hanging around at his anchorage for my liking, plus I was miffed with him over the batteries. Swam down and scraped off the barnacles from my propellor, then motored down to Lumut, testing the autopilot, engine and depth sounder all worked ok.

On anchor, near Lumut Gardens and Yacht Club
On anchor, near Lumut Gardens and Lumut International Yacht Club

Visited my friend Din for a late lunch - he has a warung in town. He's looking forward to going to Mecca in a few weeks to cook for pilgrims. Flights and accom all paid for, and he gets a small salary. Mecca is very important for Muslims to visit, and he was excited to have an opportunity to go there again, this time hopefully to become a Haji, involving more study. He is very devoted to his religion, and finds peace in prayer and following the rules for being a good Muslim, such as fasting for an extra 6 days after the end of Ramadan, and praying 5 times a day, religiously. When he goes to pray, his cute 3 year old daughter, Siti, sometimes follows him into the mosque, which is not frowned on, in this friendly little kampong.

Also got some loops stitched into my water catcher. Bucketted down with rain one of the nights here, which filled my 3 tanks to the brim, from being empty. I've now installed a 0.5micron filter, so the tank water should be good enough to drink from now on.

Lot's of other jobs done, such as getting the liferaft serviced and engine checked over, but I won't bore with the details.
So, on with the the fun stuff...

Ate out at Chinese, Indian or Malay restaurants in evenings. They put chairs out on a backstreet in Sitiawan and there's all sorts of Chinese Hawker stalls to choose from - Satay skewers of beef or chicken, claypot rice with prawn or beef, Ikan Bakar (BBQ fish on banana leaf) - delicious

I ate out with Rojer and Meek, my English and Singaporean friends who live in Lumut, at an Indian restaurant - Garlic Naan with tandoori chicken. They alternate between their ouse in southern Portugak and a rented apartment in Lumut, where they also maintain a small ketch. Also enjoyed lunches of banana leaf rice at a fun Indian warung with hilarious Bolleywood movies playing nonstop.

Din's warung sold the best Malay food around for lunches, with BBQ fish, crab and Turong (vegetable in delicious sauce). Being so hot here, I always drank plenty of fruit juices or Teh O' Ice Limau (iced lemon tea). I drank so much of the iced lime tea last time I was in Lumut, that Din served me drinks in a 'Coleh' - a large stainless steel mug, and then gave me a Coleh to keep as a souveneir from Lumut. It's been useful as a 'mandy' for showering on board.




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my friend Din and Sadia, in their warung, Lumut
My friend Din and his wife Sadia, in their warung (restaurant) at Lumut


Lumut Mosque
Lumut Mosque, Lumut town




Lumut Ferry Jetty
Lumut Ferry Jetty





Backstreets Lumut, with view to Pankor Is.
Backstreets Lumut, with view to Pankor Is.





Whale Tail Signposts, Lumut
Whale Tail Signposts, Lumut