21st - 26th June 2006

Cyprus

We anchored fore and aft alongside friends on "Skerryvore" and near "Suleika" and stayed a week in Paphos, in the Cyprus Republic (Greek side).

I was familiar with the language from my travels 15 years ago, but made people smile with my mistakes, such as "Gali Sperra!", meaning "Good Evening!", instead of Morning. Guess it will come back with practice.

I rented a bike and travelled across the western half of Cyprus. It was expensive for bikes and accomodation, but I felt like a holiday off the boat and lashed out for a few days.

I enjoyed Aphrodite's beach, where legend has it, she emerged from the frothy surf and lived on the island. Also walked to her bathing pool where supposedly her virginity was renewed after amorous encounters with her many lovers. I wasn't allowed to bath there but had a swim at the beach where the water from the bathing pool meets the sea, so perhaps mine was renewed too.

Stayed in the charming village of Polis, then rode up winding, narrow dirt roads through Cyprus pine forests in mountainous terrain.

I stopped at a lovely cherry-picking village called Padoulas, and met many old characters. Enjoyed a Mezze and Souvlaki dinner, then some drinks afterwards and heard a few stories from these old characters, such as one old man's best week of his life. All the younger generation have moved out to earn bigger money in the tourist areas, but I liked the atmosphere here better than all the new developments along the coast.

The air was very fresh and cool, and I felt a wonderful sense of freedom riding the bike along mountain roads in the morning air and dappled sunlight, with scarcely another car for hours.

Passed many monasteries perched up on hills, and a large monastery at Kykkos. Also found a church by my Greek namesake - Stavros Chapel.

Back in civilisation, passed many English bars and restaurants, I caught up on some maintenance on Weatherly with my crew, refuelled and resupplied for the sail to Turkey.