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Old Goa - Introduction

Just 9km east of Panaji, half a dozen imposing churches and cathedrals are all the remains of the Portuguese capital that was once said to rival Lisbon in magnificence.  Some of the old buildings have become museums maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India.

Old Goa - History
Even before the arrival of the Portuguese, Old Goa was a thriving and prosperous city, and the second capital of the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur.  At that time, it was a fortress surrounded by walls, towers and a moat, and contained temples, mosques and large palace of Adil Shah.  Today, none of these structures reamin except for a fragment of the palace gateway.

Under the Portuguese, the city grew rapidly in size and splendor, despite an epidemic in 1543 that wiped out a large part of the population.  The city's decline was accelerated by the Inquisition and another devastating epidemic that struck in 1635.

Old Goa - Places to see
Se Cathdral

The largest of the churches in Old Goa, Se Cathedral was begun in 1562 during thereign of King Dom Sebastiao (1557-58).  It was completed by 1619, though the altars were not finished until 1652.  The cathedral was built for the Dominicans and paid for by the sale of crown property.

The building style is Portuguese-Gothic with a Tuscan exterior and Corinthian interior.  The remaining tower houses a famous bell, one of the largest in Goa, often called the Golden Bell because of its rich sound.  The main altar is dedicated to St Catherine of Alexandria, and paintings on either side of it depict scenes from her life and martyrdom.

Convent & Church of St Francis of Assisi

This is one of the most interesting buildings in Old Goa.  The interior contains gilded and carved woodwork, a stunning reredos (ornamented screen behind the altar), old murals depicting scenes from the life of St Francis, and a floor made of carved gravestones - complete with family coasts of arms dating back to the early 16th century.  The church was built by eight Franciscan friars who arrived here in 1517 and constructed a small chapel consisting of three altars and a choir.  This was later pulled down and the present building was built on the same spot in 1661.

A convent behind this church is now the archaeological museum (open from 10am to 5pm Saturday to Thursday, Rs. 5).  It houses portraits of the Portuguese viceroys, most of them inexpertly restored; sculpture fragments from Hindu temple sites; and stone Vetal images from the animist cult that flourished in this part of India centuries ago.

Basillica of Bom Jesus

The Basilica of Bom Jesus is famous throughout the Roman Catholic world.  It contains the tomb and mortal remains of St Francis Xavier who, in 1541, was given the task of spreading Christianity among the subjects of the Portuguese colonies in the east.

A former pupil of St Ignatius Loyola, the founder of the Jesuit Order, St Francis Xavier's missionary voyages became legendary and, considering the state of transport at the time, were nothing short of miraculous.

Apart from the richly gilded altars, the interior of the church is remarkable for its simplicity.  This is the only church that is not plastered on the outside (although it was originally).  Construction began in 1594 and it was completed in 1605.  the focus of the church is the three-tired marble tomb, of St. Francis, which took 10 years to build and was completed in 1698.  The remains of the body are housed in a silver casket, which at one time was covered in jewels.  On the walls surrounding it are murals depicting scenes from the saint's journey and one of his death on Sancian Island.

The Professed House, next door to the basilica, is a two-story laterite building covered with lime plaster.  It was completed in 1585, despite much opposition to the Jesuits.  Part of the building burned down in 1633 and was partially rebuilt in 1783.  There is a modern art gallery attached to the basilica.

Church of St Cajetan

Modeled on the original design of St Peter's in Rome, this church was built by Italian friars of the Order of Theatines, who were sent by Pope Urban III to preach Christianity in the kingdom of Golconda (near Hydrabad).  The friars were not permitted to work in Golconda, so settled at Old Goa in 1640.  The construction of the church began in 1655.  Historically, it's of much less interest than the other churches.

Church & convent of St Monica

This huge three-storey laterite building was completed in 1627, only to burn down nine years later, and it's from this time that the buildings date.  Once known as the Royal Monastery, due to the royal patronage that it enjoyed, the building is now used by Mater Dei Institute as a nmnnery and it was inaugurated in 1964.

Other Buildings

Other monuments of minor interest in Old Goa are the Vicroy's Arch, Gate of Adil Shah's palace, Chapel of St Anthony, Chapel of St Catherine and the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary.

Places to Stay
Most people visit Old Goa as a day trip, but there is one hotel.  The GTDC Old Goa Tourist Hotel has basic singles and doubles for Rs. 170/250/ 

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Getting there and Away
Frequent buses to Old Goa leave the bus stand at Panaji (Rs. 5) and stop on the eastside of the main roundabout.
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