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2002

Tuesday 31st December

The last day of 2002. I have completed another year and feel justifiably content with my achievement. Now I have all of 2003 to get through and enjoy. Tessie bought me a page-a-day calendar for Christmas and I have been itching to start tearing those pages off. I missed out on the calendar last year but really enjoyed the one I had the year before.

I took Yana into work at midday and discovered that the traffic checkpoint, just outside the town, was already operating. As locals we were allowed through but a good number of nonlocals were turned back. The streets of Byron were remarkably quiet as a result. I was highly impressed. I could even park the car and decided to wander about and check the atmosphere. Johnson street, the main street was cut off to all traffic and people were cheerfully wandering up and down the former thoroughfare. Big stages had been erected at various points and some street stalls were already operating. Near the Beach Hotel a number of fast food caravans were selling their greasy wares.

Shuttle buses were operating every fifteen minutes but we decided to drive into Byron as midnight approached. I wasn't drinking and it was easier. The buses were very full of inebriated people, and I had had enough trouble during the day dodging irresponsible people. Hopefully they would be well and truly off the roads and into their partying at some safe spot. From what we gathered the numbers were down on previous years but there was still a huge crowd out and about. We watched a spectacular firework show down on the main beach and then headed off home to bed. The day had been long enough.

Monday 30th December

Byron is not such a pleasant town to be in at present. It is so crowded, people are driving like lunatics and parking is well nigh impossible. I drove in at five o'clock to pick up Yana from work, and the trip which normally takes a little over five minutes took virtually half an hour. It was very frustrating, riding bumper to bumper along Fletcher street, and then to top it off, I was asked to come back at seven, Yana had to work two more hours. Apparently they had tried to call me at home but I had already left. I was not the least bit impressed.

The camping grounds have filled with an extraordinary number of campers. Where-ever I look I see cars, crowds and madness. I am starting to wonder if there is anyone left in the rest of Australia. Is celebrating New Year's Eve at Byron Bay an Australian tradition? As much as I like colour and excitement, this is different. The new visitors seem to be very hedonistic, noisy and uninteresting. I almost wish that I was elsewhere.

Fortunately, it is much more pleasant in Suffolk Park. I am so thankful that we had the presence of mind to come here, it was a wise move. I doubt whether I could ever tire of walking along the magnificent beach even though I am having some problems with numbness in my feet. Hopefully it is something temporary and will pass soon.

Sunday 29th December

A bit of a panic set in when Yana and I realised that the Ethnic News Digest was on a month long holiday. It looked like we would have to find our own news for the radio program, so I searched in the Jakarta Post, and then we translated each of the four selected stories into Indonesian. In hindsight we would have been better off working the other way, Indonesian to English, but by the time we decided this, it was too late. We had run out of time.

The radio program had its moments but we did the best we could. I almost started to enjoy the experience although I needed an hour long walk on the beach directly afterwards before I could come to terms with some of the slip ups. I hoped that nobody was listening but as it transpired we had quite an audience. More's the pity.

In the weekend Australian there was article called Globespotters which featured the best travel discoveries of 2002. Amid locations like Mauritius, the Okavango Delta and Honolulu, was Byron Bay. Granted the recommended accommodation was very upmarket, a cool $10,000 a week mansion with enough beds for thirteen, and located at exclusive Watego's Beach, but for the rest, we have equal access to all the local attractions, at a more reasonable $230 a week. It was a good feeling.

Saturday 28th December

As there were only two garage sales on and they were both in Suffolk Park, Yana and I decided to ride the bikes to check them out. It was very pleasant pedalling slowly through the quiet suburban streets, even if the sales were hardly worth the bother. We came back home emptyhanded.

As we suspected we would, we recognised most of the stallholders at the Craft market along the Main Beach path. The same old faces and stalls were very much present. This particular event which is a bit of a tradition at this time of year, from what we could gather, was beautifully located. The trees provided shade and all in all it was an infinitely more attractive spot than the exposed, characterless Butler street site where the regular market is held.

After having had a bit of talk with his bosses, Yana now has many more hours of work. This is a positive development, as we were really battling for a week or two. So while he was working up a sweat over a steaming wok, I went for a refreshing swim. Tallow beach is a little busier these days and a life guard now patrols a small area between two red and yellow flags. The summer holidays would appear to have started in earnest.

Friday 27th December

We drove to Ballina in the pouring rain because I was keen to buy a printer. Despite trying very hard, we still came home without one. It was so difficult to make a choice and then when I did decide on a particular model, it transpired that we had misunderstood the price, it was not what was shown on the shelf. So I then had to join the queue of people at the service desk and undo the deal that had taken me so long to make. To my amusement, I found myself amongst a whole collection of faulty, broken or wrong sized Christmas presents. What bedlam!

All Suffolk park was talking of the huge turtle that had been washed up on Tallow beach. The poor animal was in very bad shape, if not already dead so the the appropriate authorities were called to supervise whatever needed to be done. Yana was intrigued by the story. He said that if something similar happened in Indonesia people would be out there in their hundreds and turtle meat would be very much on the menu. Not only that, the shell would be hanging on someone's wall, almost before it had time to dry out. I think he is becoming a cynic.

The power went off at around nine and took so long to come back on, that I gave up waiting. I went to bed. Apparently the blackout extended as far west as Lismore and south to Ballina. Rumour has it that it also extended right up to the Gold Coast. Hotels, discos and restaurants were unable to continue, and people poured out onto the streets. The atmosphere, with all those hundreds if not thousands of people on pitch black streets was quite something, from all accounts.

Thursday 26th December

The weather remained grey and cool but I didn't mind one bit. I don't mind the ooccasional, uneventful day at home. At least I was still alive, unlike the twenty people, Australia wide, who had died on the roads over the holiday break. I couldn't help but think of the grief that the relatives would be feeling. Christmas would never be the same for them again, it would always be associated with the loss of their loved one.

I was pleased that Christmas had passed quietly in Indonesia. Two years ago bomb blasts in a number of churches had killed nineteen people. This year, like last year, the authorities were better prepared. Churches were thoroughly checked and over 300,000 police and military officers were on duty. The British Embassy had even gone as far as telling their subjects in Indonesia not to go to church on Christmas Day!

I always associate Boxing Day with the Sydney-Hobart yacht race. I suppose it comes from having a brother who is mad on sailing. This year, to enhance the feeling of the day, I switched the television on to witness yet another race start. It was grey, wet and not overly pleasant for the yachts, but then again sailors are used to inclement conditions. Within minutes of the start, the dramas began and there were two collisions which lead to the retirement of two entries. I could imagine the crew's profound disappointment. They would have spent the last six months preparing the boat, finding a crew, checking equipment, buying stores and then, when everything was ready, they suffered such damage that they were no longer able to continue.

Wednesday 25th December

I woke quite early on Christmas day and spent some time on the computer before the rest of the family made their appearance. A late night had apparently taken its toll and a whole large chicken was almost completely cooked while they still pushed up zzzzzs. We opened a few presents before packing the car and heading off for the Channon, leaving the rest for later. Due to an almost unethical last minute cancellation of Sam's lunchtime working commitment, we were able to go together in the one car, all four of us.

Byron was hot when we left and we talked enthusiastically of swimming in Jude's creek to cool down. The weather, it soon became apparent, had other ideas, becoming progressively more overcast as we approached our destination. Not so long after arriving, and having just opened the remaining presents, the skies opened and the rain started bucketing down. Pete and Jude who had just bought some water only a day or two ago, were ecstatic, they would now have a reprieve, well for a few days, anyhow. Life in the country is not always easy!

It took hours to gather all fourteen dinner guests together in the one spot, and actually keep them there. I was becoming so faint with hunger I was almost of the opinion that we should start without the wanderers. Eventually, and not before time, we attacked the oysters, prawns, ham, chicken, fish pie and salads that were beautifully spread out before us. Not necessarily a traditional Christmas, although I gather from the television news that seafood is definitely becoming an integral part of Australian celebrations. Yana took it all in his stride, and seemed to be enjoying himself, but then again he always has a big smile on his face.

Tuesday 24th December

Christmas Eve. The scheduled draining session was cancelled as the doctor decided that there wasn't enough fluid. In some respects I was happy with this although my clothes have been rather tight of late. Byron Bay was very busy all day and parking was extraordinarily difficult. We didn't want another ticket and so were very careful with our choices. Ultimately we stopped in a spot that forbade parking between 1 am and 5am. I wondered if this was a trick sign, did they mean all the hours through the day between the two times? The ladies at the Radiology department clarified the meaning for us and explained that it was really designed to stop people sleeping in their cars over night.

Woolworths was packed to overflowing. Such a variety of people, too. I really loved the atmosphere, there was an expectant feeling in the air, and people were in holiday mode. At last I could believe that Christmas was close and decided that some effort should be put into making the house look a little more festive. Tess and I found a very sad tall potted plant in our little courtyard and brought it inside. It was dressed up with some tinsel that had been brought home from the Beach Hotel Christmas party last week and some presents were placed beneath. It is so exciting to be spending Christmas together with the girls and Yana.

As I am readying myself for Christmas the UN is readying itself for the 900,000 Iraqi refugees that will emerge if the American onslaught takes place. This piece of news left me speechless. How can people sanction this invasion if they are already so sure about the consequences? I just don't understand.

Monday 23rd December

After a big spurt of energy, and with a feeling of great relief, Yana and I completed our Christmas shopping. I felt quite happy with our choices and now hope that the recipients feel the same way. We washed off the sweat we had worked up, by by having a nice dip in the sea. The seaweed had magically disappeared, every last piece of it, and the water was its usual clear, clean self. Thank goodness.

I was intrigued to read in the Jakarta Post that the Indonesian government is thinking of passing legislation that will insist that all expatriates be able to use the Indonesian language. It won't be introduced till 2004 but somehow I would be very surprised if the idea gets off the ground. I think that it makes sense, communication with workers would be greatly assisted but it isn't always practical. Some specialists spend two or three years in each posting and may not have the language at the outset, but by the end of their tenure have often acquired quite a good working knowledge. I'm also rather intrigued as to what brought up the legislation in the first place. I can't begin to think of why.

In the evening Yana and I went to the Pighouse Flicks and saw the entertaining movie 'Bend it like Beckham'. Being a little early we explored the Arts Factory complex while we were waiting. It is a fascinating place, beautifully restored, with luxurious and exotic gardens. The backpacker section looked very welcoming and it would probably be a great place to stay. Granted it is a fair walk from the beach but for the young and fit it would be no problem.

Sunday 22nd December

We are fast becoming market freaks and so we headed off to Bangalow to visit their market. To our delight, this little community offered two opportunities for paid parking in specially designated spots. We availed ourselves of the service, a sensible precaution after our nasty ticket in Byron last week. Like Mullumbimby, Bangalow market was shaded and leafy. It was quite big, deceivingly so and little by little we recognized many stalls, as one would expect that we should by now. I even met up with my former neighbours from Lilydale, Tasmania who had moved up to these parts approximately seven years ago.

The Suara Indonesia community radio program will be a little short of presenters over the next few weeks so I have reluctantly offered to help out. I started today with Yana and Louise and will admit that I enjoyed this experience much more than my first encounter. Yana had sorted out all the music beforehand, and as he had to leave for work half way through, this did make things a lot easier. Louise and I talked of Christmas and I exercised some of my Indonesian. As I always use English with Yana, I was decidedly rusty and rambled along a bit while I was searching for the appropriate words.

To my surprise I managed to finish the Weekend Australian today. Normally it takes me most of the week to make my way through the various sections. It is not that I have become a speed reader, it was just that the paper was distinctly a slimmer version of itself. Christmas seems to affect everything.

Saturday 21st December

It was probably too close to Christmas to expect a large number of garage sales, most people are far too busy with all sorts of parties, end of year dinners and Christmas preparations. Somewhat disappointed, we headed off to Mullumbimby, for oddly enough there were some garage sales there, and what's more we had heard that that the market was on. We'd never visited the Mullumbimby market before and were keen to check it out.

The location of stalls under some mature trees immediately caught our fancy. Byron market is so open, so flat and so awfully exposed as my red face from the previous Sunday, fully attested for most of the week. The stalls in Mullumbimby meander this way and that and at no stage can you appreciate the full size of the market. You are only treated to small views of sections at a time. It was very quaint. Under a huge camphor laurel, the locals of Mullumbimby seemed to congregate and socialise. I watched colourful characters hug, chat, move on, and then hug and chat again. I wondered whether these alternative people once lived in Byron but have moved on, as they probably couldn't afford to stay any longer.

Mid-afternoon we caught up with some friends and I was treated to some Reiki. I have been very fortunate over the last week and have had two treatments in such a short time. Such bliss. I am being spoiled.

Friday 20th December

After a long stint on the computer, I completed a whole barrage of small jobs around the house before realising how much my fitness levels had improved. A few months ago I had to rest for an hour after washing the dishes! Everything took great effort and I had to force myself to keep going. Now I have almost forgotten how crippling the lethargy actually was but I must never take this feeling of energy for granted again.

Seaweed is clogging the water at Suffolk and is making swimming unpleasant, but not impossible. A good walk first always builds up my desire for a dip but on this occasion my concentration was interrupted by the noise of a helicopter. I found it quite unnerving and couldn't help but think of people in war torn countries who run to hide whenever something untoward appears in the sky. Those poor souls in Iraq will be doing that shortly. I can't believe that the USA and Britain are so cold hearted and calculating that they talk of a war in March. One plans celebrations and holidays but does one actually plan a war months ahead? I always thought that it was something spontaneous that occurred immediately after a disagreement but this war seems diiferent. It sends a chill down my spine.

Anyhow the attack has already started although we don't hear much about this in the media. It appears to centre around the no fly zone which is regularly used by American and British planes. Provocatively, perhaps? It would seem so and only a few weeks ago the Americans managed to kill a number of civilians in southern Iraq, but no fuss was made of the incident.

Thursday 19th December

As there were no other commitments I settled down to a morning at the computer. In my enthusiasm I totally forgot about the newly introduced farmer's markets which plan to operate every Thursday morning in Byron at the usual marketplace. I had forgotten the previous week as well. Next Thursday is Boxing day and there obviously won't be any vegetables for sale then, so I will have to try and remember for the following week.

Yana had told me about the bike path that leads from Suffolk Park to near Byron High School so I accompanied him to inspect it. He was right, it was beautiful. The sealed path wound through coastal vegetation, dunes and passed a lake with water that looked cold and unwelcoming. I am not a very proficient bike rider and the narrowness of the road worried me at times, particularly when Yana rode right next me, but we didn't meet with any mishaps.

'Persephone's Window', a local bookshop that regularly holds book readings and other literary events, will be closing shortly. It is not that the two female owners want to move, it is just that the Byron Council will not allow them to sell both coffee and books. Ridiculous isn't it. People have protested but with little effect. There was some comment stating that sewage problems were the reason for closure but I doubt whether a few coffee drinkers would have such an impact on the environment.

Wednesday 18th December

I awoke to the smell of smoke and then noted that even the air was smoky. A haze hung over the surrounding houses and big smoke clouds filled the sky to the south. It was a little unnerving and I could imagine, in a small way, how people in the bush must feel when fires approach.

Carolina, from the AIAA group, had promised to give me some cranial-sacral therapy so Yana and I headed off to Ocean Shores to avail ourselves of the offer. We found her house in a magnificent spot, on the top of a hill, with a garden that dropped steeply in the back. Fluent in Indonesian and with a love of anything tropical she is amassing a wonderful collection of plants that remind her of that vast archipelago that I also miss. After inspecting the singkong, chillies, jackfruit and guava I was given a very relaxing treatment.

David Leser, a local writer and musician, was releasing his CD for the Bali fundraising at Kokopelli's cafe in Bangalow at seven. I half intended to go but when it came to the crunch decided that I wanted to stay home and write. I had been doing more than enough socialising of late. Besides, I had already heard the song 'Fires of Bali' at the Byron loves Bali night a few weeks ago.

Tuesday 17th December

Another frustrating attempt at passing the driver's license test left Yana demoralised. He is now so traumatised by the whole procedure that the minute the examiner enters the car he becomes unable to drive in a normal manner. He is so sure that he is doing the wrong thing that he becomes too cautious, stops where he need not, gives way unnecessarily and changes gears excessively. We will give it a break for a few weeks and then just keep trying. Meanwhile he drives everywhere with me and drives perfectly.

While I was waiting on a bench a small but sprightly lady came and sat down beside me. For the next ten minutes I heard about her back problem, how her son had installed her new battery incorrectly, that the butcher across the road sold rotten meat and she also let slip the possibility of move into a unit. I was enthralled, as I wish I could talk with such purpose. My head is always full of thoughts and feelings but I still tend to be stuck for something specific to say. Perhaps some people just have the gift of the gab!

We have finally met our neighbours but it has taken a while. Years ago, meeting those who lived next door, was one of the first things that people did on moving house. Sad the way that habits change, but I suppose as we move so much these days, and as unit dwellers move more than most, you would be re-introducing yourself every few months. Not that it would hurt though... I do feel that I have been somewhat remiss in this case. If I approve of certain practises then I should make sure that I keep them going.

Monday 16th December

It was a leisurely day. I didn't complain. Efiq, Emma and Yana made music and it was lovely to listen to. I do wish I could play an instrument or hold a tune. I can't even sing! Not that this stops me, I sometimes sing just the same. In the afternoon we all went for a swim. The water was cold, as usual, but very refreshing. The wind had died down so we weren't attacked by flying sand.

Yana cooked some more fish and we had a very tasty lunch, well mid-afternoon repast, as it was definitely post lunch. Emma and Efiq then left for Brisbane. This gave us a little time to ourselves before Judy and young daughter Rosa, came to spend the night. Her eighteen year old son was having a birthday party and only wanted people under twenty and over ten. We shelved our movie plans and settled down to do some more entertaining. It is lovely having people in the house.

The year seems to be winding up quickly. Next week it will be Christmas and Yana is particularly looking forward to observing the celebrations. Each year I think it will be my last Christmas and then to my amazement I find that I survive to enjoy another one. Mind you last year I didn't celebrate the day at all, it was just a non-event but did leave me feeling quite empty. I'll make up for it this time.

Sunday 15th December

Not being regulars, Efiq and Emma were told by the Byron market people that they had to put their name down at six o'clock in the morning if they wanted a spot for the day. This obviously necessitated a very early start, which I decided to forgo. Sleep was more important for me. With Yana in tow, they returned after seven, which was a much more sensible time for rising. I joined them as we waited with a huge group of people for the allocation of the remaining spaces. It was a nervewracking time. Would all these people get a spot? We doubted it. Names were called, but not ours. Right towards the end, when there was hardly anyone left, to our great relief, we were called.

Emma and Efiq, with a bit of help, set up their stall of Indonesian sarongs, blankets, textiles, purses and masks. Once organised, we then settled down to wait for customers. Meanwhile, there were plenty of colourful people to look at, and there was even some music being played nearby. I got quite burnt but enjoyed the day immensely, and as Yana and I were there only for moral support, it was a stress free day. A number of Indonesian friends popped by and it became a bit of a social occasion.

Our car, when we returned to it, was decorated with a piece of paper under the windscreen. We had been given a parking fine! I looked around, saw that we were parked alongside at least thirty or forty cars, and then noticed the no-parking signs. All of us were apparently illegally parked. Although why, when parking at the market is at a premium, this perfectly adequate strip of land could not be used, I cannot fathom. People park here, every market, and I would imagine that most were totally oblivious of the signs. If police didn't want us to park here why wasn't the area cordoned off? I was very angry as the sixty-six dollar fine was poorly timed. Yana isn't getting as much work these days and we have to start to prepare for Christmas. It was a very heartless gesture to fine so many people, but very lucrative, that much I do gather. I will be asking a few questions over the next few days.

Saturday 14th December

I was weary all day, which was not surprising, the last few days have been most hectic. Yana and I went garage saling in the morning and we visited at least five houses before our resident buyer had had his fill. I did a little Christmas shopping but was the epitome of restraint. At one house, in rain forest fringed Lillipilli, we chatted with a woman who had cases full of Indian things for sale. Apparently, for about twenty years, she and her husband had flown to Indonesia, bought stock for the markets in England and then on the return trip to Australia they had stopped off in India to buy goods for the Sydney markets. What a lifestyle!

We had attended a garage sale at Pearl's house in Paterson street a few weeks ago, but this time it was all decked out with Christmas lights, a nativity scene of large plastic dolls was placed in an alcove, and a tape of carols was playing. Did I speak to Pearl? No, I only know her name because there was a sign at the side of the house which reads 'Pearl's place'. She only had a few things left among which was a brass lamp. A fellow asked how much it cost and Pearl, I presume it was her, immediately launched into a long and detailed history of the object, in a very Australian accent.

Yana and I were at a loose end for most of the afternoon. We had been so busy for days that the enforced leisure came as a shock. We practised reverse parking ad nauseum and even went for a swim. Then we went to the video shop to get some films, but just as we were about to start watching a movie, Efiq and Emma arrived. Yana and I were thrilled. A reprieve! They spent the night and talked of their plans to sell some goods at the market in the morning.

Friday 13th December

The principal of the Goonengerry school had told us that it would take half an hour to do the trip from Byron Bay. We believed him, and then I started to panic as the trip looked as though it was going to take considerably longer. For a few minutes I even believed that we were lost again in those confusing backroads, but luck was with us this time. We arrived with five minutes to spare. Fortunately things were very laidback, they had had their school concert the night before and so were all rather tired. We didn't need too long to set up and then made a start.

We did some introduction games, talked about Indonesia, taught a song and then brought out the angklung, the bamboo instruments. The children, they were almost all girls, were a delight to work with and they picked up the technique quickly, so we were producing recogniseable tunes within half an hour. After a break we brought out the puppets and the children had a play with them. Another song plus a bit of language work brought the workshop to an end. We had coped surprisingly well, so Yana and I were very pleased with ourselves, and drove off with big grins on our faces. On the return trip, we played our favourite tape of oldfashioned Indonesian songs. The music is so bad, so dated, that it is beautiful.

That evening the 'Byron loves Bali' group were doing the catering for the al capella choir gathering at the Suffolk Park Hall. A lot of people had put their names down to help but I decided to drop by anyhow and see how things were going. I live so close, it wasn't a hardship. As it turned out only three people had materialised and my help was sorely needed. We set up the cakes that had been donated by local Byron businesses and then I was positioned to do the selling. The others sold the drinks or the pizza sections. I enjoyed myself immensely. My life is lacking in these types of experiences and I will cherish these opportunities while I can.

Thursday 12th December

Judy from the Australia-Indonesia Arts Alliance desperately needed someone to take on an Indonesian cultural workshop on Friday after Efiq cancelled a few days ago. Yana was not sure of his capabilities but when I heard that it was to be held at a small country school with less than twenty students altogether, I told him that it would be fine. I would help with the teaching side and he was to provide the music. Judy provided us with an Angklung set, bamboo tubes that are shaken to produce a note. It was only a small set of eight but it was a start. Yana spent the rest of the day playing with the set until he could play a tune all by himself. This was quite an achievement because it is usually a co-operative group exercise whereby each person is responsible for one note.

Feeling the lack of useful background information I spent hours on the internet researching Sundanese (West Java) games, angklung and shadow puppets. Some helpful sites were located and the most relevant pieces were cut and pasted. This was then edited until I felt that I had assembled a good collection of data. I then attempted to print the four pages only to find that the printer wouldn't work. It kept on telling me that it was out of paper, which was nonsense for there was any amount in complete readiness. This annoyed me immensely and the more I tried the angrier I became. Eventually I went for a walk, it seemed the wisest thing to do, as I was on the brink of wanting to throw things around. I came back, was going to save the pages on to disc and go to an internet cafe and then found to my horror that the file was empty! Things were not looking promising.

I then had to start collecting the information all over again. This time I made pencil and paper notes as I went and this was actually valuable as it helped me remember the basic facts. I didn't have time to prepare a lot of notes because we were going to the Australia-Indonesia Arts Alliance (AIAA) annual meeting at the Ka-toush middle-eastern restaurant in the evening. On arrival there,Yana and I treated ourselves to a very tasty meal and then we settled down to a very typical meeting, they seem to be the same wherever I am , whatever the organisation.

Wednesday 11th December

At Mullumbimby, last Saturday, a group of community minded people had organised a rain dance. Water talks, a comprehensive display, a prayer and an earth healing ceremony were also on the programme. We didn't attend but gather that more than two hundred others did turn up. I am glad that they made the effort for we have had some reasonable rain since then. Unfortunately the downpours tend to be short but every drop of water counts.

I went to my local doctor as I needed a referral for another blood test. I am not sure whether I will be continuing my treatment in Brisbane as it is such a long trip. Lismore Base Hospital may be a better alternative, it is a lot closer and they also have good doctors. If I wanted to organise the new arrangements for the new year, I realised that I had to make a start now. While there I heard the latest blood test result, which was a bit of a disappointment. I had hoped that the tumour count would have gone right down, perhaps even to the fifities, but no, it had only gone down to 90. What was worse was that it will have risen again over the last month. I was rudely reminded of my mortality. Very sobering for I had felt so good recently. I had even began to forget about the cancer.

With spare time on my hands I decided to attend the 'Byron loves Bali' meeting at the Piggery restaurant. This group had organised the fundraiser that I had attended with Conchita some weeks ago, where in excess of ten thousand dollars had been raised. They are planning further events and are also deciding how the money would be best utilised. They were a friendly bunch and I hope I can help in some way while my health holds out.

Tuesday 10th December

Yesterday Yana had been given a ticket, by his bosses, for the Michael Franti concert at the Great Northern Hotel but as all the remaining tickets were sold out I couldn't accompany him. It didn't overly worry me as I was fairly tired anyhow. I just asked him to find his own way home, as I had no desire to pick him up after midnight. He was a little reluctant to go but I insisted, it was an opportunity not to be missed. Besides, the ticket had cost over thirty dollars.

Despite driving more than capably these days Yana did not pass his driving test. On starting the car he had bunnyhopped for a metre or two and this had so unsettled him he couldn't stop shaking for the rest of the test. Things apparently went from bad to worse after the initial hiccup, even the parallel park, which usually causes him no difficulty, completely flummoxed him on this occasion. He looked so despondent at the end. I know I certainly wasn't a competent driver when I was granted my license all those years ago, so perhaps the RTA is too demanding. I am worried that he may be just as nervous next time.

After the disappointing test we went to the fish shop near by and bought some more mullet. I know many people look down their nose at this fish but when Yana fries it the Indonesian way it is absolutely delicious. Served with rice and a kecap manis and chili sauce, it is decadence itself. Perhaps the ongoing visits to that wretched little RTA office will not be so irritating if we can treat ourselves to some lovely fish!

Monday 9th December

Today was a very ordinary day and I suppose I will see a lot of them from now on. It looks as though I might just have to grin and bear it. For a few hours I tapped away at the keyboard while Yana plucked at the strings of his guitar. His work hours have been reduced considerably which has left him with a lot of free time. He is not overly happy about this and if it doesn't improve soon will seek other work. Needless to say, when the twins want to do some last minute socialising, they show no embarrassment in calling on Yana. I get rather angry about it all but have kept quiet.

The highlight of the day was going to town to return some library books. One book, on vegetarian cooking, was overdue and I had to pay the princely fine of ninety cents. I had barely even looked at the coloured pictures, let alone checked the ingredients. To be honest, I suspect that I will never become a creative cook as I don't have the right mindset. That is not to say that my cooking is not improving. Conchita had inspired me with her soups and I managed, yesterday, to produce a halfway reasonable leek and potato soup.

The quiet is helping me to maintain my healthy routine. I buy fresh vegetables and fruit, not all organic, because it is too expensive, but certainly locally grown if possible. The beach is so close and as I relish the opportunity to breathe in fresh air I have continued the walking and swimming. It is not the same on my own but I will get used to it. Yana has had a bad cold over the last few days and has wisely been avoiding the water. The yoga routine that I had followed last year has been revived although I am not overly flexible at present. I suspect that I still have a little fluid in my abdomen. It isn't enough to be drained but restricts intricate movements and makes my trousers feel tight. More than three weeks have passed since I was last drained, so there is a definite improvement.

Sunday 8th December

Fires abound, and interestingly enough, NSW seems to have the monopoly. I wonder why. We aren't the only state currently experiencing a drought so why are there so many fires? Some critics have whispered that mismanagement is at the core but I don't know enough to make any comment. Australia is a dry continent and prone to fires so one would hope that everything that could be done is being done. Yana is continually amazed at the destruction caused by the fires. Indonesia has had fires, big ones at that, but they were caused by big companies deliberately burning areas so that new plantations could be sown. Here the situation is quite different.

I have started writing again. I am even a little inspired, which is just as well, as I have a lot of time on my hands. I need a mission or a project and writing will fit the bill nicely. I can't always be out and about and need to have some activities that will keep me busy at home. Watching television is not an alternative any more as I am a lot fitter and healthier now. Yana has his guitar and music and I can spend time on the computer.

The news has been so full of bushfire stories that it has been difficult to really find out what has been happening in Dili, East Timor. I know that hundreds of students went amok, a lovely malaysian word, after police tried to arrest one student for murder. Houses were burnt, shops looted and people were shot. Most unfortunate for a new country with a supposedly bright new future ahead. Apparently things have been brewing for some time. The prosperity that independence may have held has not been forthcoming as the dollar and western interests have become all powerful. The average person in the street has found that even basic things are beyond his reach. Not only that, the imposition of a new official language, Portuguese, that few under thirty years of age can speak, has meant that many will never get jobs, well not in the immediate future anyhow. Such chaos. Is foreign intervention such a good thing after all? From what I have heard, the Australian profile on our northern neighbour's shores is so high that we perhaps need to really assess what is going on.

Saturday 7th December

After a hectic few days I settled down to a quiet life in Byron Bay. Being Saturday, garage sales were on the programme again. The first few houses had nothing of interest but later in the morning I noticed a mattress. Conchita had gone home and with no prospect of any other guests on the horizon I decided to ignore the appearance of the very item that we would have dearly wished to see a few weeks earlier. Not only that, Yana had had a reduced work load this week and so his pay would also be reduced. Buying expensive items was obviously not a good idea. Out of interest and also because I was getting bored waiting for Yana, I asked the price of the mattress. Five dollars, I was told. I wondered if my hearing had totally abandoned me and asked a question just to check. Had I heard what I thought that I had heard?

Needless to say, we bought the bed. We would have regretted it for ever after if we hadn't. Michael helped us get the bed home and then Yana tried to sell it to Tessa for a hundred dollars. She did consider the offer before we told her that we had only paid five dollars for it. Joke notwithstanding, Tess was very keen to take possession of the newly acquired item and she persuaded Yana and I to part with it. We finally agreed but reminded her that Santa's bag this year would be a small one.

It was not a hot day but I was keen to keep up the walking and swimming that I had enjoyed during Conchita's stay. The beach was almost deserted which alerted me somewhat. I did notice one or two people in the water while I was wading through the shallows, so I eventually did shed my outer garments. I remained cautious, and quite rightly so, as the waves looked temperamental. One minute I had water around my knees and then, seconds later, it was up to my neck. Not only that, the backwash was strong and it required considerable effort not to fall down. I watched a man carry his young daughter into the water and wondered the wisdom of his action. I only breathed easily when he waded out after a few minutes.

Friday 6th December

A big day stretched ahead of me. How was I to fill it in? There would be no long walks and talks with my friend Conchita and I started to feel a little sorry for myself. Then I realised it was Idul Fitri and that poor Yana could well be feeling lonely and homesick. Fancy being occupied with myself when another person was probably feeling emptier than I was. Fortunately Judy came to the rescue. We had missed the early service at the Gold Coast mosque but were invited to visit some Indonesian people for lunch. Judy's car was ailing so we took our laser which was proving to be remarkably reliable considering it had just successfully completed the Brisbane trip the day before. Yana had misplaced his wallet and was minus his driver's license so it was decided that I should drive. I wasn't looking forward to that same old road again but having company always makes a difference.

I inwardly groaned when Judy told me that our destination was Labrador which is located right at the very top of the Gold Coast. It couldn't have been further away. Typical. Fortunately it all went very quickly and the signs seemed, if not helpful, at least not unhelpful. We were able to partake of a nice Indonesian lunch and settled down to some pleasant chatting with some new faces. It wasn't quite as nice as last year's Idul Fitri celebrations in Bandung but it was a whole lot better than sitting at home.

On the way back the signs became decidedly unhelpful as we managed not to find the road that had so safely delivered us. Amazing how roads can disappear like that. We eventually drove some distance in the wrong direction as we had no idea where all the signposted places were located. They were all totally unfamiliar. Fearing the worst we backtracked and then found ourselves on the main road again. From then on we made swift progress. I am still convinced that I have a good sense of direction. It is just that I have to contend with some very mediocre signposting.

Thursday 5th December

I woke up early after a night of dreams crowded with big green signs and lots of roundabouts. Never let it be said that the driving had got to me! We took the dog for a walk in such surprisingly high temperatures, considering the hour, that another swim was necessary on our return. We gave the commuters time to get off the road and settle in to their workplaces before heading off ourselves. We wanted to drive the car to a spot near the airport that was also adjacent to a railway station and had decided that Toombul was such a place. The airport train is horrifically expensive as is the airport car park so, although a logical destination, it was not a sensible one. Toombul proved to be perfect.

Conchita got to see the Brisbane city skyline from the train before we alighted at Southbank. After a welcome drink at a riverside cafe we walked through the parklands to a bridge that was to take us right to the heart of the city. En route the man-made beach and the Nepalese temple from the 1988 Expo caught our attention. The old buildings in the city centre also appealed although the demolition of one whole block of old shops was not a comforting sight. It will no doubt be replaced by something concrete and ugly. I didn't think that this wholesale destruction was allowed in this day and age.

Saying goodbye was not easy. Conchita and I have been friends since 1998 and we had shared two houses together in Indonesia. We know each other very well and have always been very close. I was so teary that there was no no point in prolonging the pain so I made a hasty departure. The drive back so consumed my concentration, with all those green signs again, that I wasn't able to feel lonely or upset until I got home. By that stage I was so tired that I couldn't think straight anyhow.

Wednesday 4th December

Conchita and I left Byron around midmorning in the trusty little Ford laser. To make the trip a little more interesting we left the highway near Pottsville and followed the coast road. At Burleigh Heads we stopped for a refreshing swim amid the masses. We ate pastries in a park with a big war memorial. 'Lest we forget' was written in big letters. The trouble is that we do forget and so very quickly too. John Howard is more than happy to pledge another generation to senseless slaughter. He has definitely forgotten.

Once we neared Brisbane I started to get somewhat confused as the signposting was appalling. Generally two options are given and this can be most problematic if neither are where you want to go. It is presumed that drivers are familiar with the names of suburbs and no long distance destinations are given. We did finally get to Manly but only after having driven around in a big circle as I tried to avoid godawful Capalaba. Not really successfully either as in the end we were forced to go through it. I winced in pain as it is such an ugly place.

At Manly we drove down to East Coast Marina and checked out the boats. There weren't many familiar ones but I was still able to catch up with a few old friends. A wind was building up and I heard that the Wednesday afternoon recreational sailing competition had been cancelled. A number of men had used this as an excuse for some early drinking but my brother was not among them. We found him at home and so settled down to some pleasant chatting which was only interrupted by a visit to the Wellington Point Hotel for some very tasty food. On returning, as the evening was very hot and sticky, we all went for a swim in the pool before heading off to bed.

Tuesday 3rd December

It was Conchita's last day in Byron Bay and we headed to the shops again. We had always talked about sitting down somewhere and having a coffee together but had never got around to it. If we didn't do it today we would never do it. The options were people watching somewhere in a popular cafe or sea watching at the Beach Hotel. The latter won and we had a pleasant time looking over the little park and onto the blue waters. Neither of the girls were working which was a shame but they wouldn't have been able to spend much time with us anyhow.

When I realised that Sam was not working and Tess had a free day I made last minute arrangements for us all to have lunch together. The Lennox Head hotel was suggested and this turned out to be a top spot. We sat on the balcony with a clear view, unobstructed by buildings, straight on to the beach. What a magnificent place. There was some noise from a large table full of women who were probably celebrating their Christmas lunch together but we coped splendidly regardless.

Our earstwhile little leader is still plunging around like an elephant in a china shop. He seems to have Napoleonic aspirations, completely misguided I might add. The parrotting of his big friend's words relating to pre-emptive strikes overseas has not gone over well with our Asian neighbours and neither should it. I am highly embarrassed. Surely Australians won't be fooled by his undiplomatic attempts to ensnare the support of the public. He still doesn't think before he speaks and I am beginning to think that this is a skill that is beyond him. He is too old to change now.

Monday 2nd December

People in Byron often hug when they meet. This form of greeting is so common that a local sculptor decided to make a statue of people hugging and donate it to the town. While walking past the shops I noticed the hugging too. Lovely friendly welcomes. Some men also gave each other big hugs when they met. Generally they were older types, alternatively dressed but male nonetheless. There were no formal handshakes here and polite personal spaces here.

We had driven to the Industrial estate as Conchita had a few last minute gifts that she wanted to buy. I was surprised to find that the estate had quite a number of retail outlets interspersed amid the small 'factories'. We checked out a candle making place, two warehouses full of solid dark furniture from India, an Asian emporium and clothing establishments. Byron Bay people seem to be travellers and so many have combined travelling and income-producing work. I could imagine nothing better than going to India or Indonesia and buying a few container loads of goods. I suspect however that the market has been cornered. I can't think what a newcomer would start selling, the town is already awash with sarongs, floral clothing, jewellery and wooden furniture.

We had bought some fish in Ballina the previous week and Yana was keen to cook it. While he set about preparing the late lunch Conchita and I cooled ourselves down with a refreshing swim. We returned home and could smell the tantalising aromas out on the street. Yana had done a magnificent job and we settled down to a feast of fish and rice that reminded me of trips in the past to the coast in Java. It was clear that we would have to do this regularly, as fish cooked the Indonesian way is something that I have really missed in Australia.

Sunday 1st December

We checked out Byron Bay at night, last night. It was simply buzzing. Sam assures me that it will be like this every weekend from now on. The Beach hotel was very full, with people everywhere, particularly young ones. They were all checked very carefully as they entered. A number of people were even rejected entry as they apparently didn't match the photo on their ID card. A number of bouncers communicated by walkie-talkies and patrons were obviously being closely scrutinised. Conchita was fascinated by this high level of control as it doesn't happen in Holland. Age limits are not enforced there and she said that before five in the evening all the patrons tend to be aged between twelve and fifteen.

It was market day again and as it was Conchita's last weekend with us it was imperative that we attended. I didn't buy anything other than a bucket of honey but enjoyed walking around. I now feel much better that I have for some time. I am much fitter and am no longer dragging myself from one point to the next. Conchita was intrigued by the colourful people and the variety of lifestyles that Byron residents espouse. So many support themselves by making or growing things, making music or offering services, such as massages, reflexology ot tai chi.

The artistic lifestyle has been pursued by many. We had visited an exhibition by some artists in Cooper's Shoot, just a few minutes out of Byron, a few days ago. It was all housed in a rustic house and shed in rural surroundings. Aris, from Yogyakarta, makes political banners and I was overwhelmed by the minute detail in his work. Some of his pieces take three or four months to complete, and this didn't surprise me at all. Efiq, of music fame, had displayed some of his abstract ink drawings of musical instruments. Other students of Art from Lismore were displaying their works, as well.

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