Any figurine is a model. You may have heard of "Scale-model" trains, or even the tiny dogs and cats and dolls for doll-houses are scale models. Model horses (donkeys and mules, etc) have been popular collectors items for many generations. The art of "customizing" them, and "showing" models horses has evolved over the years in to a truly remarkable hobby. For some, it's not just a hobby! Some of these horses are works of art, cast in resin, porcelain, or completely changed from the original model used as a base. There have been models that have sold for thousands of dollars!
If you think this is out of your price range, don't dispair. There are shows that are adaptable for any level of collecting or remaking. From Original Finish Classes to Novice to Artist Resins, you can find a class your models will fit in. Or perhaps you just want to go to the shows to dream!
Types of Models
Original Finish - the factory finish, unchanged. Many are plastic - such as the Breyer and Hartland brands. BREYER produces models in 6 different sizes, and a vast variety of breeds. Each year some molds are retired, and new ones introduced. A retired mold (called discontinued by collectors) may be brought back in a different color in later years.
OF models can also be china or porcelain. Some of the most sought-after models in the hobby are vintage china models. Hagen-Renaker still produces miniature models (you may have seen little china dogs and cats in the hobby stores) but they used to produce incredibly detailed horse models. In mint condition, these types of models may fetch many hundreds, sometimes even over a thousand dollars. Goebel, Lefton, Lomonsov are among the other quality porcelain producers.
Some other manufacturers (like Ertl) produce horses and other animals that are suitable for collecting and showing. Unchanged, they are shown as OF, or they can be customized.
Special Run - an original Finish model in a limited run. Sometimes done in a limited quantity for a company (like State Line Tack, Sear, JC Penney, etc) and limited to one year of production. Occassionally done as a limited run of a set number of pieces (such as 800 or 1000). A SR will be a popular mold painted (at the factory) in a color different from any of the regular release runs. They may even be a color long retired and brought back with slight modifications.
Mass-produced resins - You can find a lot of resin-cast figurines in just about any store nowadays. Most of these are not of high enough quality to really show (especially at live shows) but a few companies do produce high-quality, realistic resins. Northlight, Conversation Concepts and a few other brands have show-quality, excellent models.
Artist Resins - many artists in the hobby are now offering sculptures they have created in limited editions, cast in polymer resins. The Resins may be offered unpainted, finished by the artist, or custom painted by the artist. In showing, these will be broken down by type for various classes. The resin models are more expensive than the mass-produced horses, but the detailing is usually worth it!
Customized Models. - Ever wanted to have a model that was a scale replica of your real horse? Or wanted to own a Friesian and can never afford one? You can remake a model or hire and artist to do it for you. You can choose the size, color, position, breed, sex of the horse (or donkey, mule, zebra, fantasy horse or hybrid). Plastic models are usually used as the base (such as the Breyer or Pete Stone) and the legs, head, ears, etc are moved. THey may even be disconnected, moved to a new position (such as fron a standing mold to a trotting pose) and reconnected. The gaps are filled, muscling changed or added, smoothed, sanded, and painted. A custom can be as simple as sanding seams and simply repainting the model; minor remaking such as turning or tucking a head and adding a hair mane and tail in place of the sculpted one, or a drastic remake where you can't tell the original body used for the base! China models can also be customized to an extent - either a custom paint job before glaze and fire, or a clay-body custom, where the head might be tucked, and ear turned, or the mane/tail varied from the mold.
Scroll down the the bottom of the page to find out HOW to show your animals.
Mustangs Longears Fantasy Models Dogs Cats Wild Animals
Ponies Drafters Spanish Arabians Mixed Showstring Cattle
China/Porcelain
Intro To MODELS CATS C2 RATS OUR HORSES Our MULES COWS!
OUR DONKEYS Thor's Special Appearance MYRYHA's PAGE
SHOWING REAL DONKEYS Myryha At KIDFISH Lone Star Live 2002
Our Original Shadow's Castle Site Irish Fest Our TRAVELS Site
MODEL KENNEL MODEL CATTERY Fantasy Models
MODELS - Spanish - Models - Longears Models Arabian/Partbred
Okay, you have your models all dusted off - now what?
There are at least three ways to show your models.
1. Photo showing. You take a photo of the model, in a neutral (fine for beginners) or realistic setting. You can even have them sent off to a professional model photographer who will take their photos in halter and performance settings for a fee. Don't worry, you can start of with plain halter photos in front of a neutral backdrop, and then take new ones later as you learn more or can afford pro fees.
You then find a model photo show you would like to enter. There are always model classlists being posted on the web, or you can join a model club (local or national), get their newsletter, and enter monthly point shows. Yes, your models can show towards High Point and Year End Awards.
You label the photo backs with information about the model - name, make/model, color, age, breed, sex, owner, and a space - usually a blank white label or strip of clear tape - for the class numbers. Once the show is chosen, you pencil in the class numbers on the photo backs. Then include the photos, fee and a return mailing envelope for return of you photos and mail to the judge. They will sort photos, list in class results, and send photos (and sometimes awards) and results back when the show is over.
A good way to get started. Drawbacks, you need more than one set of photos if you want to show in multiple shows at a time. Some shows if they are very large may take a couple of weeks for a judge to finish, and then mail-back time, so you need to gauge how many shows you can do that are close together. One other drawback is always having to renumber photos. If you show on a set classlist for a club circuit, you can usually keep numbers the same for the year on one set and use set 2 for different shows.
Advantage: Classlists will be vast and varied, so you can almost always find a classlist you can show with.
#2. Live Shows. Wow, these have changed over the past 17 years since I started showing. Here's the basics - you find a live show in your area or within a distance you are willing to travel. (It is highly recommended you visit a live show first without showing to see what is going on, or to select a VERY SMALL - ie 5-6 models - showstring and go with an experienced shower. Some shows require fees to be paid in advance, and shower numbers must be obtained. All of your models must wear a leg tag (a string tag looped on their leg) to identify them, usually with a special number as designated by the show (This means you may get a shower number for yourself, then your models go in a master list under that number - 12409 would be shower number 124, and model number 09 (Bohemian Rhapsody), 12410 might be your model Lil Bita Lena.
You will need to gather up models and pack them CAREFULLY for transport. DO NOT USE NEWSPAPERS directly against models. Any heat may cause the newsprint to stick to the model. It will also rub off on white models. Live model shows are based very heavily on the condition of the model - scratches, eartip and hoof rubs, black marks - will count off on Original Finish models, especially in classes where 5 or more of the same mold in the same color show up. Again, you should consult an experienced shower to help you if possible for your first show.
I use the plastic grocery bags to wrap around models (only clean dry ones - not those that had meat or fruit in them), using 1 or 2 or more per model. I then pack down into Rubbermaid or other Tote boxes, preferring those with sturdy snap-on lids, or hinged lids. If you have very fragile models, you may want to pack in bubble wrap (then you can use newspaper for extra padding) or towels, or even in a separate smaller box that then goes into the tote. Don't cram them in, but don't leave them so loose they will rattle, fall and scratch others.
Try and limit your showstring. If you have to unload, carry into the showhall, stack totes by your table, make another trip (or trips) and park the car, just remember you will do the same thing at the end of the show, and be a lot more tired than early in the morning! Hand-carts and dollies can be useful, but having no more than 3 or 4 totes, medium sized, is best.
Keep a copy of your master list. Make a copy of the classlist and highlite the classes you have models in. Pack it on the top of a tote along with a table cover (maybe a sheet in your favorite color). Take business cards. Be willing to answer questions about your models, and even to accept offers to buy them. Take money - you will surely see a model you want to buy, and there may be commercial vendors too.
Drawbacks - packing, unpacking, packing, risk of scratching or breaking models. Travel time. Show fees and other expenses (are you taking a cooler with lunch, is a lunch provided, or are you risking there will be fast food nearby). Spending money on new models. Spending money. Seeing stuff you want and can't afford.
Confusion over who is in what ring where and when and did you miss a class? Long hours, tired feet.
Advantages - seeing your competition on the table, learning about models you have never seen or new facts about old ones, meeting some great people. Trading or buying models. Having a lot of fun.Opportunity to qualify models for some National show circuits.
#3 Online Showing. There may be more online shows and circuits, but we have recently discovered a VERY GOOD one. Go to IMEHA to see more about the shows.
Basically, there are shows for model horses broken down into divisions (such as OF, CM, Stone, Micro-minis, etc) and also those for Longears, cattle, dogs, cats, wild animals, and Fantasy creations. Recently added is the Creepy Crawlies show for model vampyres, monsters, spiders, ghouls, etc.
It's easy to enter - you get and entry number, and then use it in naming your photos. Digital photos work great, or you can scan paper photos. (There are even people who will help you in scanning photos.) They need to be no more than 350 x 350 pixels (most Paint programs or photo editors have a resizing feature). Then you e-mail the photos to the administrator, they are uploaded to the show site, and you are notified. Once this is done, you go to the provided link and enter your models by typing info into the entry form.
Judging day arrives - and you can still judge, provided as a courtesy you skip classes where you have animals showing.
Disadvantages - sometime missing a deadline or not entereing photos properly (ie in wrong classes).
Advantages - getting to see a bunch of other great models up on the site. Judging at your own pace or just viewing. Once models are entered you don't have to do it again next month. A LOT OF FUN!!!
Custom Noriker-Pinzgauer, leopard app by Shlei (CM Breyer)
O/B Leah Patton
Address
Classes: 4, 27, 39
19401 Can I keep It Ma, CM Donkey
19402 Thibodeaux, CM Hinny Gelding
19403 Shlei Vegas Lady, CM Mare mule
19404 Triad Guardian, OF shagya arab
19405 Pancho Uh-Oh, OF donkey jack
19406 Goliath, CM Shire stallion
example of a master list for a show using 3-digit assigned number.
19429 Eine Klein Esel - OF china donkey
Intro To MODELS CATS C2 RATS OUR HORSES Our MULES COWS!
OUR DONKEYS Thor's Special Appearance MYRYHA's PAGE
SHOWING REAL DONKEYS Myryha At KIDFISH Lone Star Live 2002
Our Original Shadow's Castle Site Irish Fest Our TRAVELS Site
MODEL KENNEL MODEL CATTERY Fantasy Models
MODELS - Spanish - Models - Longears Models Arabian/Partbred