The Arctic is a very special place and an opportunity to visit it by cruise ship is not to be missed. Fortunately, Kristina Cruises (Ref 1) has begun White Sea operations with its delightful flagship Kristina Regina. The Arctic (Ref 2) is easy to fly over these days but a visit is still difficult and a cruise to these distant lands is the answer to an intrepid traveler's prayers. A map of the Arctic Ocean (Ref 3) provides a quick view as to the size and extent of this land-locked body of water and its intrusion into northern Europe as the White Sea. A map of the Kristina Regina's itinerary is an excellent introduction to this White Sea/White Nights cruise (Ref 4).
I had been in Bergen on the Norway (Ref 5) cruising the fiords but I had to terminate the cruise prematurely to fly to Kirkenes, almost on the Russian border, to board the Kristina Regina. The Finnish owned and operated ship is one-third the Norway's length but I found that I had three times the enjoyment so that seems to be a good ratio.
What was it that endeared the cruise? First of all the unusual itinerary which is detailed below. No cruise ships, of which I am aware, visit the White Sea. In fact, the Kristina Regina had to get the approval of the prime minister of Russia to visit this area because it is still an important naval and military frontier region. Also a stop in the infamous Solovetskiy Islands was an added attraction. And then maybe again I just wanted to cavort in the midnight sun. Secondly, the small vessel's casual atmosphere and its ability to navigate narrow passages, such as the Trollfjord, and the reduction of tender operations (except once) were attractive in these fiorded and island-studded waters. Thirdly, the attentive service staff, to include a gregarious captain and owner, and excellent food prepared in both an international and scandinavian style, left nothing to be desired. Fourthly, the passengers themselves were very experienced in travel and cruising so much so that no matter who you might eat with at an open seating, it turned out that they were extremely interesting. Even a component of Finnish passengers onboard could handle English and that was a bonus. In addition, the delightful BJ Mikkelsen, president of EuroCruises (Ref 6) which chartered most of the ship, was aboard and watching every operation. I suppose I should also add that not having to obtain a Russian visa saved expense and trouble. The ship obtains approval for shore visits of all passengers if they stay with the excursion group. It did not hamper small individual shopping forays however.
The Kristina Regina itinerary follows and one may click on any of the following ports for travel-related information:
Jun 30 Kirkenes (Ref 7).
Heavily bombed in World War II, second only to Malta in intensity, Kirkenes had some 35 houses and chimneys standing after the war and everything has been rebuilt since then. It is a small town with a port and a large shipbuilding and repair facility that is economically questionable. The contracts for building Russian ships have not materialized and only ship repairs are currently carried out. The once mighty iron ore operation some dozen miles south of the city has been closed for years and perhaps an Australian conglomerate may finance reopening. In the meantime, some fishing and tourism are the main activities. A huge underground bomb shelter, now a visitor attraction, and a very nice regional museum are recommended. Visitors drive the few miles to the Russian border but a great many embark and debark from the last stop on the Hurtigruten coastal express ferry service (Ref 8) and make their way to and from the airport.
Jul 2 Archangelsk (Ref 9).
After a day in the Barents Sea paralleling the rather flat coastal upland of the Kola Peninsula, an entrance is made to the White Sea and eventually the timber export center of Archangelsk is attained. The city has an old world atmosphere for the most part with its wooden structures much in evidence. A more modern port and downtown district is easily investigated and a number of war memorials are to be found within the city limits. Inasmuch as Archangelsk was much used as a starting point for polar expeditions, its polar museum is of great interest. Shopping opportunities are rather limited but the prices are right.
Jul 3 Solovetski Islands (Ref 10).
Founded almost 600 years ago, the impressive Solovetski monastery and fortress has had a chequered existence as it has at various periods served as a penal institution from which there were few survivors. Today it has reverted to its original purpose as an Orthodox establishment with about 40 monks. The site has great potential as a tourist attraction except for its rather remote location. The visit here had the feeling of a great privilege. Of special interest, the Kristina Regina was able to moor at a pier within walking distance of the monastery.
Jul 5 Murmansk (Ref 11).
Early in the morning our ship passed various installations along the estuary leading to Murmansk, the most interesting of which is Severomorsk. This large naval base contains everything from a pair of nuclear Kirov-class guided missile heavy cruisers Kirov and Peter the Great(Ref 12) to submarines. A static aircraft display can be seen that is part of an aviation museum. Further along the coast, three nuclear icebreakers in their bright red, orange and yellow colors are passed. Apparently they are not needed at the height of summer as the pack ice has receded and the Northern Sea Route is open through June, July and August.
The port of Murmansk has thrived on the fishing trade; however, times have changed and fishing is at a low ebb. A population of 450,000 has recently dropped to 330,000 since the inhabitants were almost all from somewhere else and had come north to Murmansk to enjoy the pay differential which incidentally allowed workers to retire early as well. With a decrease in jobs these workers have in most cases gone back from whence they came. One sees a large oil rig that has been moored for years along the shore, a reminder of the offshore oil extraction plans that fell through. Murmansk reflects, but in a greater degree, the poor economic conditions in Russia.
Attractions in the city include a huge attractive war memorial atop a hill overlooking the port and a number of other war memorials including a cemetery commemorating allied merchant seamen killed in maritime resupply efforts during World War II. Much of the city contains huge block apartment buildings and schools that are identically designed to those in all the big cities of Russia. See one and you've seen them all. A bright spot is the exchange rate which at the US$1=20 rubles formula makes items very cheap indeed.
Jul 6 Honningsvag/North Cape (Ref 13).
Only 1200 nautical miles from the North Pole, a bit over two hours flying time for a modern jet, the North Cape is a romantic landmark that everyone seems to know. In and of itself, it might be considered no more than another coastal cliff; however, since it marks Europe's quite northern extension it has that land's end appeal and has become another travel goal. The actual visit is quite pleasant as a relatively new visitor center has an attractive complex of viewing platform served by a tunnel, a curved screen multi-camera film production theater, a small museum and diorama exhibit and the universal gift shop and cafeteria. The 20-mile or so approach from the small port of Honningsvag is interesting as it is an excellent view of tundra environment even with a Saami reindeer roadside stop. A new tunnel complex was just completed this summer connecting the island with mainland roads so more vehicular traffic is on the way.
Jul 7 Tromsoe (Ref 14).
The city of Tromsoe appears bright and new with attractive views in every direction as it is situated along the waterfront with bridge connections to more city on an island. The museums and Northern Lights Planetarium are recommended as is a visit to the very modern Arctic Ocean Cathedral. Incidentally, the planetarium which features the Aurora Borealis or northern lights, is new and is located on the grounds of the local university.
Jul 8 Svolvaer (Ref 15).
The Lofoten Archipelago is renowned for its cod fishing and processing. The islands have spectacular upstanding peaks and they form a protective wall that shields the eastern or lee sides from the harsh winds of the north Atlantic. It might be pointed out that the ameliorating onshore winds that are warmed by the northern extension of the gulf stream are responsible for the world's greatest temperature anomaly when compared to latitudinal location. In any event, the Lofotens are very scenic and a motor trip to the other islands is enjoyable. The Viking Museum at Borg, in my estimation, could be replaced with a visit to some other attraction.
Jul 9 Bronnoysund (Ref 16).
An interesting excursion to Torghatten Mountain can be arranged in Bronnoysund; however, it entails quite a bit of climbing over a rock strewn trail and should not be attempted for those not up to it. The purpose of the climb is to view a hole in the mountain or one might say the absence of rock.
Jul 10 Geiranger (Ref 17).
The next day was another venture into fjordland, the Storfjorden in particular. The route to Geiranger is world famous and the view from Flydalsjuvet, two miles uphill from the port area and featuring the overhanging cliff photo opportunity, is equally impressive. A further expedition up to 5,000-ft Dalsnibba, a partially snow covered mountain top, is quite remarkable for its zigs and zags and its alpine tundra appearance complete with ice in its large lake at the summit.
Jul 11 Bergen (Ref 18).
The second largest city in Norway, Bergen is considered the fjord capital since its location serves as a regional transportation gateway. The old architecture is preserved and its maritime connections, such as the world heritage Bryggen section, are readily displayed. The Floeybanen funicular ride from the center of the city is one of the prime attractions of which there are many. Some of the best art museums are located near a lovely lake, Lille Lungegardsvann, that warrants more than a few minutes of contemplation. Bergen is an excellent stop in every respect especially if the weather cooperates.
The cruise ended in Bergen, however I stayed on the ship another six days until Amsterdam as I wanted to visit the Shetlands, Inverness and Edinburgh in Scotland (Ref 19). The cruise was very successful, partly no doubt because the weather was fine. I had brought heavy clothes but I didn't need them. The conduct of the ship was exemplary and I enjoyed the maneuverability of the vessel in mooring alongside and smartly departing exactly on time. The three piece band was excellent. The Finnish service staff all spoke extremely fine English. It was all in all a cheerful cruise and I look forward to joining the Kristina Regina on a visa-free voyage to St. Petersburg and a possible voyage to the eastern end of the Black Sea.
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