13 Dec, Cape Horn, Chile (Ref 7). Early morning at about 0800 we approached Cabo de Hornos from the east with good weather and quiet seas. How different a picture than one has read about where mountainous seas and most fitful winds thwarted the sailing ships attempting this passage. The view from the east looks remarkably like the silhouette of Diamond Head although the peak at almost 1400ft is almost twice as high. Upon reaching a point due south of the cape, which is located on a small island in a group of small islands, the weather abruptly changed as a scuddy rain squall moved in and reduced visibility to zero. Then, as we did an 180-degree turn to head towards the Falkland Islands, the weather again cleared and it was easy sailing. This was a potent lesson as to how quickly the weather can turn in these southern ocean latitudes.

14 Dec, Stanley (Ref 8). The approach to Stanley is interesting as one enters the barren appearing low shoreline. Large letters of rocks line a portion of the outer harbor bearing the names of British warships that participated in the 1982 war between the United Kingdom and Argentina for possession of these islands. Tender operations were required to reach Stanley, the capital of the island group. Incidentally, it was possible to see penguins on Gypsy Beach with binoculars from the ship. Later one could hire a land rover to visit that beach for $10/person. I chose to walk along the bay past a sunken ship, a much earlier grounding than the war, to a number of monuments and then to a small but fully packed museum that was opened especially for passengers from the cruise ship. The town only has some 1,500 inhabitants and we were 1,200 passengers not counting the crew that might have come ashore. That is twice the size of the incoming visitors coming to Stanley by plane for a year! More strolling on the other side of town revealed upland geese, giant petrels and a curious, rather rare steamer duck that apparently has lost its ability to fly. I might have been tempted to visit a colony of king penguins at Volunteer Point but the time required to get there and back made it impractical.

One is quick to believe that trees do not do well in the islands ostensibly because of the rather long cold periods and high winds not to mention the voracious appetites of large numbers of sheep; however, in town there are any number of large trees that show a little TLC will do wonders. Quite a few flowers were in evidence and overall the picture is one of relatively comfortable life in the town. Again, good sunny weather will cast a good light on almost any situation.

16 Dec, Puerto Madryn (Ref 9). The Valdes Peninsula and the region to the south at Punta Tombo are noted for their sea lions, penguins, orcas, whales and a variety of wildlife. I had explored this area earlier so I opted to get some ocean swimming in at some of the sweeping beaches south of the city even though the season has not yet started. Again, a lot of new buildings going up and there is a feeling of prosperity although in limited terms. A few of my shipmates shared a taxi as we wandered throughout the vicinity looking for vantage points and photo opportunities.

18 Dec, Montevideo (Ref 10). Montevideo is an older city as compared to most large cities of the world; however, it has its charms. There was a huge crowd of young people at the Puerto del Mercado, a restaurant and shopping complex in the old city near the port since it was Saturday and the day was fine. The impromptu drumming by roving musicians and dancing by the young girls added a bit of zest. Elsewhere, the various plazas and main thoroughfares were busy with people presumably making their Christmas purchases. The leather goods looked very attractive and many of our passengers indulged themselves as they were aware of the higher prices to be expected in our last stop in Argentina. Uruguay is similar in many ways to Argentina but the pace seems to be less hectic and no less friendly.