(KRISTINA REGINA)
HENRY NOWICKI 9 AUGUST 2000
HENRY NOWICKI 9 AUGUST 2000
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This Kristina Regina (Ref 1) cruise is a continuation of a cruise from the White Sea of Russia to the fiorded coast of Norway (Ref 2). The outer Scottish islands are difficult to access any other way and the pleasant cruise ship mode is the ideal answer. This trip begins in Bergen, Norway (Ref 3) which is a visitor's delight especially in good weather. The ship departed from the celebrated Bryggens area in the inner harbor at 1900 hours and proceeded north to the huge convoluted Sognefjord region. The next morning found us deep in the interior fiords and by 0800 we approached the relatively new Flam wharf (Ref 4) with its adjacent railroad terminal. The REN 6, one of the larger of the Renaissance Cruise Line vessels, moored behind us and presented a very handsome appearance indeed. Most everyone boarded the famous Flam train for a round trip ... Norway in a nutshell ... that eventually took them to the small transshipment point of Gudvangen where they rejoined the ship via tender. I had been on that particular train ride before so I stayed with the ship as we sailed some 20 miles or so through the very picturesque narrows leading to Gudvangen. We sailed out at dinnertime and I am happy to say that the ship's open seating arrangements permitted one to witness port departures without unduly disturbing the mealtime schedules. After heading west all night, the ship entered the Shetlands port and capital of Lerwick (Ref 5) which happens to be a thoroughly maritime city. Again, we moored downtown which could not be any more convenient. The Europa, a good-looking cruise ship, was anchored offshore when we arrived. I, along with two fellow passengers, headed for the southernmost part of the island to the lighthouse at Sumburgh to see the cliff-dwelling birds of which there were thousands. Naturally, I tried making friends with a few Shetland ponies that I encountered along the way but their dispositions were anything but friendly. In was rather interesting to witness one of our passengers arrive fifteen minutes late (after a car was sent to find her) and having the entire ship's assemblage watch the process! This voyage was particularly interesting in that the passengers were almost all, but not entirely, associated with alumni groups from most of the prominent iniversities of the Southeast part of the United States. Their lecturers, for the most part, were professors who provided endless information about the history and archeology of the Vikings and Celtic peoples of these island areas. It was fascinating and provided a framework for all the sites that were available for exploration on this cruise. After a short overnight's journey to the south, the port of Kirkwall (Ref 6) in the Orkneys was achieved. This permitted me to take a local bus to the standing stones at Stenness on the western part of the island which is called the "mainland". It is confusing inasmuch as the mainland of Scotland is only across the ten-mile wide Pentland Firth. The Orkney Islands are easily reached by visitors and one doesn't have the isolated outlook that the Shetlands provide. I also found time to tour the Highlands Park scotch whisky distillery where they still use the peat process. I also had an opportunity to view part of the Scapa Flow roadsteads where over seventy German naval ships were scuttled after World War I. After departure from Kirkwall, we headed north to the island of Westray where we viewed hundreds of sea lions in a rather large colony along the water's edge. We were also treated to one of the Westray Firth islands where thousands of sea birds cloud the skies with their feeding antics. Late in the evening we saw the QE2 at a distance with her many lights on and it was an interesting sight. Another night's voyage to the west and south brought us to Stornoway (Ref 7) in the Isle of Lewis which is the largest island of the Outer Hebrides or, as the Scots call it, the Western Isles. There are many ferries plying out of the port and and the waterfront is lively. I did visit the Calanais archeological site and I also had an opportunity to see the Stornoway Highland Games with all the macho-men competitions and the bagpipe music. It was fortunate timing as these activities are only held once a year. The night's voyage brought us southeast to Portree (Ref 8) on the Isle of Skye where we again had to tender. Inasmuch as the island is easily reached from the Scottish mainland, there are noticeably many local visitors. This was my day to take it easy, explore the town a bit and relax on the ship while everyone was out checking out old stones. The number of ruins and old castles is amazing in this part of the world. Another night to the south and it's Tobermory (Ref 9) on the Isle of Mull. The Explorer, the small but much-travelled explorations ship, was in port when we arrived but she left before I could visit. We had to tender as there was one spot near the wharf that was a bit too shallow for our 5.5m-draft. I did some walking along a lovely path through the forests and along the shoreline. I attempted to visit the local distillery only to find that they were in their "silent" period which lasts from 4-6 weeks annually. I, however, did check out their small museum for local color. The evening departure for the Isle of Man was highlighted by a night passage through a narrow strait between the isles of Islay and Jura on our way south. I should mention that one of the most enjoyable aspects of the Kristina Regina is that her navigation bridge is open around the clock (except for periods while maneuvering in port). With so many islands and waterways, it is neat to be able to check the charts and be informed at what times we will be at such and such a location. Douglas (Ref 10), the capital and principal port was an exceptionally entertaining area or, as I like to think of it, as a refined Atlantic City when it was in its heyday. It's a boy-meet-girl sort of place with old railroads, amusements, gardens, promenade along the water and easy access by multiple ferries connecting it with all the major places around the Irish Sea. I did encounter one tatooed young man who was swimming in the cold water along the promenade but in spite of his assurance that the water was fine I declined to join him even though I was wearing my swimsuit just in case. The island has had a most interesting history and it acts almost like an independent country with its own currency and the oldest parliament in the UK. South of the Isle of Man is Holyhead (Ref 11), one of the principal ferry terminals in Wales. This city has been voted in the past as the most distressed in the UK but it does not appear to warrant that title. It has a most busy waterfront and the town has an array of shops for just about anything one would want. I even thought of buying a second hand vehicle from one of the shop owners just so I would have something to kick around in but I thought better of the idea. I decided to rent vehicles instead after the cruise. The last night's voyage due west to Dublin (Ref 12) was altogether too short as the cruise came to an end early in the heart of the city. I decided to rent a car for a week and tour Ireland (Ref 13) to soak up the atmosphere of this green country. Click here for other cruise/travel articles by the author. Click here to email the author. |
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