The Delta Queen, is an authentic paddle-wheel river boat having been built in 1927. Its Nashville-Chattanooga cruise would seem to encompass all the hilly and mountainous country that the Cumberbland and Tennessee Rivers have to offer and it seemed as if this might be a good time to investigate river cruising. The Delta Queen has received good reviews and although tropical storm Barry was still spreading its rain effects in the southeastern part of the country, all signs were for a go.

I drove from Chicago to Nashville almost straight south on US 41 to parallel the Indiana border with Illinois and found it an easy journey. Ten hours later, Opryland and Nashville would be an overnight stop before boarding the Delta Queen.

Nashville is a multi-faceted metropolitan port city on the Cumberland River (mile mark 191) that is a great tourist favorite. It is known as Music City USA and is still the center for country music without doubt. The cruise would start at the downtown riverfront Ross Landing at Nashville and continue both northwest and downstream along the Cumberland River to its juncture with the Tennesee River in Kentucky. Here is a paragraph from the Delta Queen Steamboat Company: Formed by a confluence of forks in Harlan County, Kentucky and located in the largely isolated countryside southeast of Paducah, the now tranquil Cumberland River region wasn't always so peaceful. Discovered in 1748 by a group of Virginians, their settlements were unprotected by a fort and often raided by Cherokees, Chickamaugas and Creeks. Later, the area along its lovely 687-mile length figured prominently in Civil War confrontations. From these historic conflicts arose legendary figures including Davy Crockett and Sam Houston. Their exploits are still told today up and down the Cumberland River.

The Tennessee River somewhat parallels the Cumberland but is larger and grander. It makes a big sweep to the south before heading north to the Ohio and is nowhere more than 150 miles from Nashville, the starting point of this cruise. And although it takes about 600 miles of river boating to get to Chattanooga, the stright line distance between the two cities is less than 130 miles.

Embarkation of the Delta Queen was possible from approximately mid-morning although occupation of the cabins were advertised as no earlier than 1530. All cabins have an outside view and the ship is so small that nothing is far away from anything else. There are no elevators but each of the four passenger decks are certainlly close to one another and the extra exercise is helpful. The food and entertainment are topnotch and the river scenery is most pleasant.

Departure at night (1930) was interesting although the lights of the city are soon gone and only occasional settlements and a single lock (Cheatham Lock/25-ft drop/148.7) are encountered. Morning (0800-1300) found the vessel in Dover, Tennessee (89.1), a small town with a few historic highlights. Fort Donelson, located along the river (88.8), was the site of the South's General Buckner's unconditional surrender to the North's General U.S. Grant. A plaque at the Dover Hotel indicates that Bruckner called the offer most unchivalrous and ungenerous.

Incidentally, the Delta Queen moored at a boat ramp, nothing more, while at Dover. The large five-ton gangway, called a stage since it was the walkway entrance to the vessel upon which the old-time entertainers used to entice those on shore to take a river cruise, is swung from its forward protruding position to the shore. The anchor is not used except for emergencies. The vessel is merely tied off to a few trees with head lines that help control the angle of the stern downstream. The bow is resting on the bank so if anyone wants to know how often the Queen runs aground, the answer is about every time it docks!

During the night, the vessel continued north along Lake Barkley into Kentucky, through the Barkley Canal (32.8 but 25.3 on the Tennessee) and then a turn south into the impounded Tennessee River called Kentucky Lake. The day was spent steamboatin' the Tennessee almost straight south across the entire state of Tennessee. Our lecturer, Jerry Hay, who is also known as a "riverlorian" has a daily talk about steamboating and the sights along the river. These get-togethers are not to be missed as they provide interesting aspects of the river cruise.

Next day (1300-1700) was reserved for Savannah, Tennessee and Shiloh National Military Park. For those who had previously visited Shiloh, there were a variety of activities on the vessel to easily fill in an afternoon. Pilot house and engine room tours are particularly popular. The evening's entertainment on board involved the marvelous Riverboat Five headed by Walter Kross, Annie Lebeaux with her songs and piano renditions of Broadway melodies, Bobs Schad and Stevens, both banjo players and cruise director and deputy, respectively.

Savannah, Tennessee (190) with its historic homes and nearby Shiloh National Military Park (198/Pittsburg Landing) were the scene of a pivotal military victory for the North, both sides having lost more than 10,000 men. A tour was offered to Shiloh and for those wishing only to see the town, a shuttle was provided. The $10 charge for using the shuttle covered every port (perhaps four) during the cruise so it was a popular vehicle even though most of the towns could easily be reached by walking a few blocks.

Pickwick Dam and Lock (55-ft rise/206.7), the second of six locks and dams to be visited by the Delta Queen this trip, was easily negotiated during daylight hours. It takes about a minute to rise four feet in elevation when the lock is flooded by gravity flow and it is interesting to see the ship rise above the lock as if on an elevator.

Shortly, but after nightfall, the states of Alabama (214.2) and Mississippi (215.1) are entered with the northern entrance of the Tenn-Tom Canal (Yellow Creek) between the two. At mile marker 224.8 both banks of the river are in Alabama.

The next morning Florence, Alabama (256), featuring an interesting historic downtown, is an unscheduled stop (0830-1300) which turns out to be very pleasant indeed. A bevy of townsfolk, with a western band and ladies dressed in ante-bellum long fullskirted outfits, entertained dockside. A marvellous old-fashioned picnic lunch, complete with plastic ants, is served in the Orleans dining room with great music by the ship's entertainers. As usual, the calliope is powered up for the departure and salute to the great hospitality of the river town.

Next was a real treat as we entered the TVA's highest lock and one of the highest in the world, the Wilson Dam and Lock (93-ft rise/259.4). That was soon followed by the General Joe Wheeler Dam and Lock (48-ft rise/274.9) for a full day's climb on the river. The great rise in water elevation is necessary to pass the most difficult section called Muscle Shoals which extends from Florence (256) to Elk River (285). This has been the most famous and costly river hazard in America.

The following day we visited Decatur, Alabama (305) for a full day (0800-1700) which permitted optional tours especially to Huntsville's U.S. Space and Rocket Center. A walking tour of Decatur's historic district is popular and relatively easy to accomplish.

The last full day is spent steamboatin' in mostly a northeastern direction on the Tennessee. Guntersville Dam and Lock (39-ft rise/349) is negotiated as is the Nickajack Dam and Lock (39-ft rise/424.7). Incidentally, all the dams and locks have power plants associated with them. One of the principal goals in the TVA (Tennessee Valley Authority) development program was to provide low cost electricity to the region along with flood control, navigation improvement and creation of recreational areas.

Chattanooga, Tennessee (463.8) was in sight the night before debarkation which occurred early at about 0700. Thus ended a splendid ride on the river boat queen.

Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park, Lookout Mountain with its Rock City, incline railway and Ruby Falls, and various other attractions make Chattanooga a visitor's favorite.

After a night spent in Bowling Green, Kentucky, the
Mammoth Cave National Park was due for a revisit which turned out to be very worthwhile. The guide, Kevin Neff, should be sought out as his delivery was the best.

The drive back to Chicago was without incident and the whole trip was deemed a success.

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