What might be more romantic than cruising from Hawaii to Tahiti (Ref 1) with multiple stops at both destinations? Perhaps a cruise through the Greek Islands but then those islands do not have the lush vegetation and laid back atmosphere of the Pacific. In any event, the prospect of an unhurried voyage to these tropical attractions provides all the anticipation necessary to start enjoying the vacation before it even begins.

The Hawaiian Islands (Ref 2) extend some 400 miles, roughly east-west, in the north central part of the huge Pacific Ocean. If one includes the state boundaries, then the linear extent of the island and atoll chain is a bit over 1,500 miles as it extends northwest to Kure and Midway Islands (Ref 3). Considering the distance of over two thousand miles to any considerable island or mainland, then these precious bits of land are the most isolated of all islands in the world. Good air connections, however, mitigate that isolation and a fortunate location between Asia and the US has kept the islands from being completely ignored in this era of long-distance aircraft operations.

There are eight major islands (Ref 4) starting with Hawaii on the east and extending to Kauai and Niihau on the west. Only six islands have significant populations as Kahoolawe is uninhabited and Niihau has but a few hundred souls.

Honolulu (Ref 5) is an ideal departure point for the South Pacific. The Hawaiians, it is thought, originally came from Tahiti so the affiliation is very great indeed and Hawaii is an introduction to the heart of Polynesia. A visit to the Polynesian Cultural Center (Ref 6) is an even better starting point for the determined traveler as it provides a background of information that is put to good use as one proceeds further south.

The Regal Princess (Ref 7), built in 1991 with a capacity of 1,590 passengers, turns out at first glance to be a most comfortable ship and the ship has received good reviews over the years (see footnote below). Certainly, its destination to French Polynesia (Ref 8) will make it seem as if it were one of the floating islands that early Polynesians thought they were seeing when the tall sailing ships hove into view. This princess has all the ingredients for fine cruising; however, there were some irritations such as the oveflow of art auction junk into the public passageways and adjacent lounges. It certainly detracts from the cruise experience. And the deemphasis on ballroom dancing in favor of line dancing has become all too apparent. The entertainment dancers/singers are great but the other acts indicate Princess just does not want to spend the money for top talent. Also port lectures have deteriorated with ship's personnel now taking on that job instead of a knowledgeable expert with in-depth understanding.

I had thought to take a folding bicycle on this trip but it turned out that we had to use a tender nine times while only mooring alongside five times so I decided not to fool with it. The original thought was a good one though.

Honolulu, Oahu 2300 Departure. The Regal Princess departed from Honolulu Harbor (Ref 9) just before midnight with the Statendam still in port. She was to follow us for the next few days.

Lahaina, Maui (Ref 10) 0700-1800. Maui has the shape of a dumbbell with Lahaina located on its western shore (Ref 11). It is a small town that remembers its whaling heritage and, with its main street running along the waterfront facing the islands of Molokai and Lanai, has become a tourist favorite.

Maui has been voted the best island in the world by Conde Nast Traveler magazine for three years in a row so you know the island has a lot going for it. The
superb tradewind weather, the combination of high
mountains and broad coastal areas interspersed with
beaches, interesting land use patterns of sugar and
resort centers, lush vegetation on the windward
sides, good access and friendly, attractive
inhabitants. Water sports and boating activities,
especially on the leeward or protected coastline to
the south and west of the island, are an important
ingredient. Even the whales know a good thing when
they see it and they travel three thousand miles to
get there every winter.

I rented a car and drove east to Maalaea to experience the new Ocean Marine Center which seems to be a first class exhibition. Then north to Iao Needle and then east again to Haleakala where at 10,000 feet in altitude, one gets some grand views of the island and the magnificent crater with it huge cinder cones. I took so much time on the mountain that I could not get the car back to the West Maui Airport and had to have AVIS retrieve it from the street in front of the tender pier. But, in typical island fashion, they were not at all upset and did arrange to pick it up the next day with the help of one of the shopkeepers who held the keys for them. I sure lead an interesting life.

Nawiliwili (Lihue), Kauai (Ref 12) 0700-1700. Kauai is the oldest and the most eroded island in the Hawaiian chain (Ref 13) so much so that is has the so-called Grand Canyon of the Pacific in its western part. I was determined to ease up on the sightseeing and save it for the return visit as I was still recovering from the hectic ride back from Haleakala the day before to make the ship. I therefore made my way to the delightful Marriott Kauai Surf Hotel to enjoy their beach and enormous pool.

Hilo, Hawaii (Ref 14 ) 0900-1800. The big island of Hawaii intercepts the prevailing northeast tradewinds and receives an overabundance of rain with Hilo getting over 150 inches per year. But, again, the weather was excellent so I engaged a rental car and drove to the scenic Volcanoes National Park some forty miles south of Hilo. The trip was very worthwhile covering an area not to be missed. That night we sailed south along the shoreline so we might view the volcanic fires along the coast where the molten lava emptied from tunnels into the sea. Inexplicably, there was no announcement of this course diversion and many passengers missed the experience.

Two days at sea came at the right time; however, one gets involved with shipboard activities and the days pass all too fast.

Christmas Island, Kiribati (Ref 15) 0800-1800. Located approximately 120 miles north of the equator, Christmas Island is a very large atoll (Ref 16) that is part of the Line Islands and administratively belongs to Kiribati (pronounced ki-ri-bes'), a far-flung collection of islands extending some 3,000 miles east to west. Christmas Island has been called the world's largest reef and it may be so since it is a very old reef with a large mass of coral but if it is overall size then Kwajalein Atoll in the Marshall Islands must be considered number one.

The atoll, some 28 miles across, has a large shallow lagoon but also has considerable land that is covered by fresh and saltwater lakes and has been used for extensive coconut plantations. A highly-regarded oceanographer and retired professor fellow-passenger aboard the ship told me that he had accompanied a bird researcher a number of years ago in surveying the island and was told that there were 19 million birds before the last large El Nino and that there were only 2 million afterwards. He credited the loss to the meter of rain that flooded the island and caused the chicks to drown since the birds habitually nest on land and in the low shrubs. I believe there are relatively few species, for the most part, of frigate birds, shearwaters, terns, and petrels. The passengers who took a $10 catamaran boat ride to Motu Tabu were rewarded by the heavy bird concentrations.
Incidentally, the cruise line offered no shore excursions on the island and for the most part gave a very poor picture of the conditions ashore, so much so that a number of passengers decided not to visit the island after hearing the port lecture.

Christmas Island has a very shallow reef entrance that is about 1.2 meters in depth at low tide. Reportedly, the island is unique in that it has only one high tide a day that occurs at noon. The tenders have a four-foot draft when fully loaded so there is a problem at low tide. I was behind a tender that got hung up on the reef and had to have its occupants transferred to a catamaran to return to the ship. So we returned and tried again after lunch when tender operations were resumed. It was about two in the afternoon before I got ashore to do some swimming and snorkeling along the reef. There were two groups of Micronesians singing local songs to entertain the visitors and a few stalls had been set up to display local goods for sale. All in all, it was a most interesting visit.

Flights on Aloha Airlines from Hawaii arrive once a week and there are always fishermen from Hawaii that want to try the hard-fighting bonefish in the lagoon. A single hotel is available and sportfishing is a main attraction. Incidentally, gossip aboard the vessel had a passenger evacuated by an Australian airplane that reportedly cost some $50,000 for the evacuation. I can't verify that as medical emergencies are usually not discussed publicly.

Another curious item. Kiribati, about five years ago, decided to move the international dateline more than a thousand miles east to permit Christmas Island to be on the same day as the rest of the country and in doing this rather bolstered its claim to being the first inhabited land to enjoy the new millennium day whether it happened in 2000 or in 2001. So we sailed into tomorrow for the better part of a day even though the ship's calendar did not change.

Two days at sea to rest a bit for the upcoming visits to the Polynesian core areas.

Bora Bora, French Polynesia (Ref 17) 0700-1800. The ship approaches the small island of Bora Bora from the west and enters the light blue lagoon that is protected by an encircling barrier reef. It is as if one had stepped into a picture postcard of the famous area. It seems that it is the volcanic plug, that is eroding into jagged forms and forming the center of the island, that stamps the picture as the South Pacific. We tender ashore and I join some of my shipmates in renting a taxi to circle the island along its 20-mile long road. It was pleasant and still allowed enough time to get in a little ocean swimming.

Moorea, French Polynesia (Ref 18) 0700-1800. Just a dozen or so miles offshore of Tahiti, Moorea is a most impressive island with its barrier reef enclosing an extensive light blue lagoon. The ship arroaches the island from the north and enters the westernmost large embayment called Opunohu Bay. We tender into the small pier and, again, a shared taxi was the answer to view the Belvedere and circle the island along its 40-mile length. Swimming along the northwest shore was excellent.

Papeete, Tahiti (Ref 19) 0900 Arrival. The Regal Princess moors alongside in the downtown area which is perfect for seeing the city and stepping out on the town. I find I can even park my rented car right at the pier...something that is difficult to do almost anyplace else. In fact, the car is only about fifty steps from the bottom of the gangway. The car is heavily used to tour round the island one day and around the island in the opposite direction the next day. Gas is twice to three times the cost of what it might be in the states but one can circle the island in about 80 miles.

Inasmuch as I will stay on the ship for its return voyage to Honolulu, I have three whole days to enjoy the island which looks very much to me like Maui. I get a lot of beach time and especially enjoy the Meridien Hotel's beach and pool.

We get a fourth night in port but leave at 0400 for Moorea where we will visit 0700-1800. The island is a little jewel and I spend time swimming and walking the Club Med beach area.

Bora Bora 0700-1800. A repeat visit to the even tinier jewel of Bora Bora where I make for the shore.

Two welcome days at sea to contemplate the delights of the French Polynesian scene. On balance, though, I believe the Hawaiian Islands are as pretty and have much more substance, activities and variety both physically and culturally. Hawaii no ka oi.

Christmas Island, Kiribati 0800-1800. The problems with tender service to the island continues. Low tide prevents early boat operations and I don't get ashore until mid-afternoon. But I do get a good walk along the beaches and into the nearby village. I distribute some items to the children and head for the Catholic Church where I meet the French pastor and his British assistant who pioneered the well-known fishing activities on the island some thirty or forty years ago. We have a good visit and I promise to get some needed items for the community when I get back home.
Actually, the natives on Christmas Island have a better economic situation than many of the other islands in Kiribati and the Pacific. Most of the passengers seem to think that the atoll is the pits; however, they might be surprised if they return in a few years. I am told that the Japanese will be enlarging their space tracking station and building a new airfield, paving the main road and improving the wharf area to support a missile launching site which is favored because of the island's location almost at the equator. There will be direct flights to Japan and who cannot expect the visitor to come flocking in right behind.

Two days at sea are occupied with all the activities that only a large ocean cruise ship can offer. I still suffer from sleep deprivation it seems.

Kona, Hawaii (Ref 20) 0800-1800. The west side of the big island of Hawaii is relatively dry with abundant sunshine and, with its protected waters away from the predominant northeast tradewinds, provides a great location for Kona and its tourist-related activities. I immersed myself in ocean swimming and visiting the small Kona community. The weather was pleasant but visibility was much reduced by the vog which is a combination of fog and vocanic erupted particles that have been blown around the island from the Kilauea volcanic areas to the east. It is ironic that Hilo suffers little from nearby volcanic activity but Kona, almost one hundred miles away, has been afflicted for the last two decades.

Lahaina, Maui 0700-1800. This is to be a relatively quiet day with a visit to the nearby Kaanapali resort hotel area for a swim and snorkel. The Whaler's Village is a neat area with a good whaling museum and upscale shops. Furthermore, it is serviced by frequent free shuttle service from Lahaina.

Nawiliwili (Lihue), Kauai 0700-1800. It's a car
rental day with long drives clockwise around the island to Poipu, the southern resort area, and Waimea Canyon, the so-called Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and then again counterclockwise passing through Lihue along the eastern coast to Kilauea Light to the Princeville Resort Hotel on the north shore. Kauai is a very pretty island and its lush vegetation and green uplands reflect its well-watered location (Mt. Waialeale is credited with the heaviest rainfall on earth). I have to cancel the horseback ride at the Princeville Stables as there is simply no time left after all the driving. Such is the life of a cruiser.

Honolulu 0715 Arrival. Right on schedule, the Regal
Princess arrives at Pier 2 to find the delightful
Honolulu Boat Day reception of band and hula dancing
at pierside. The fireboat, with all water jets
working, meets the ship at the harbor entrance buoy
and escorts it majestically all the way to its
alongside mooring. A very nice gesture, indeed.

So ends the rewarding South Pacific voyage and its
exploration of the Polynesian heartland.


References:

(Ref 21) Ship Review, February 2000.

(Ref 22) Ship Review, April 1997.

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