Originally created 08/18/97
by MudPuppy
Other major contributors:
SickRick, Jasper©, Bugs Bunny®

The Official FAQ for alt.binaries.cd.image

Edited and updated: June 2000 by Đanté
Introduction
    For New Members
    For Lurkers
    For Veterans
The Basics
Getting Parts
Recreating The Image
Burning The CD
    EZCD Scans
    CDRWIN Scans
Making An Image
Posting A CD
Glossary
Downloads
Index
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[5]  Making an Image


[5.0] What software should I use?

The main programs used here are EZCDPro 95 v2.11 and CDRWin, both of which are commonly posted programs in ABWI and ABCDIP. Just lurk/leech around, they usually show up every couple of days. Fireburner and EZCD Creator are also used for specialized burns that aren't handled by CDRWin, for example. EZCD Creator is not recommended for creating ISO's, as all versions of it are not capable of making true ISO's for burning by other programs.

 
*IMPORTANT* Make sure you have a good crack/reg. generator for CDRWin. The programmer (Jeff Arnold) will let you burn with a bad code/crack, but you end up with another coaster for your collection.

Please refrain from doing a rip with Easy CD Creator. Even though it now has ISO support (as of version 3.01) there have been some problems with the ISO's it makes, either too large or no one can burn them correctly. If and when this program stabilizes, you'll hear about it from the regulars in the group and this FAQ will be updated to let you know.

Finally, do not use their proprietary format (i.e. the *.CIF files).
 

[5.1] What do I need to know before starting?

Keep in mind that creating a .ISO will require the amount of data space on the CD plus a few bytes, and the space the compressed archive will occupy. Making and posting FULL CD IMAGES, is not for the weak at heart or the short on space! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE AT LEAST A GIG FREE BEFORE YOU TRY TO MAKE AN IMAGE!!

 

CDs come in two types, DATA and DATA+AUDIO.

DATA CDs (usually) have just one track on them consisting of the program code and all supplementary graphics, sounds, music (in WAV format, not CD audio), etc. Think of them as shiny hard drives. EZCDPro handles these disks excellently and is what you should use. CDRWin can be used as well, but its more complicated.

DATA+AUDIO CDs have, as you might imagine, both conventional DATA and CD audio tracks. These disks require special handling in order to properly recreate the disk format, including gaps between the audio tracks. DATA-only CDs that have multiple data tracks (ie. Mode 2 or CDROM XA disks) fall into this same category. CDRWin is the tool of choice for making images of these disks.
 

[5.2] How do I make an image of a DATA-only CD?

  1. Using EZCDPro

     
      Click on the toolbox icon, with the CD to be copied in the burner, then click "Read Track" and tell it where to save the .ISO and what to name it. Voila, you have a .ISO file! You can also use the toolbox to compare the track on the disc to the .ISO file to make sure they are exact copies.

    Keep in mind, the drawback of using this method to make an image is that it uses your burner as a reader, and cold experience has shown that using a burner as a reader all the time is a large contributing factor to their early demise. (NOTE: If you're reading from your burner only a couple of times a month, don't sweat it. This advice is particularly relevant only to those doing a large amount of images in this manner).

    Most of us have a reader as well as a burner, (to do disc to disc copies <g>) and CDRWin will create ISO's from a reader.

  2. Using CDRWin

     
      Click "Copy Disc" to bring up the Copy Discs/Tracks/Sectors dialog. Make sure "Copy Disc" is selected. At this point you can also choose the CD Reader you want to read the disc from. While the debate still rages, experience seems to indicate that we're interested in a "cooked" image. This is accomplished by selecting "Data (2048)" option under Data Trac Settings/Mode 1 Transfer. This will defeat most weird multi-data-track copy protection schemes (MTL for example had 32 tracks on the master, would not copy correctly disc-to-disc, and a raw image ended up being almost 700MB. The "cooked" image yielded one data track, but a WORKING CD!). It also results in a smaller image file and will allow the image to burn correctly with most other CD Mastering Programs, whereas "raw or uncooked" images require a cue sheet, DAO (CDRWin) and a little more technical knowledge. Leave anti-jitter and subcode options at default (automatic).

    After checking your settings, click "Next". This will take you to the Copy Settings screen. Click on "Copy To Image File", most of the other options will go dim. On the "Image File" line, type in the Drive/Directory/Name of the .ISO file you want to create, for example:

    E:\IMAGEDIR\IMAGENAME.ISO
    Click "Finish" and the disc will be read and written to the Drive/Directory/Name you have selected.

[5.3] How do I make an image of a CD that has data AND audio tracks?

If you have more than one track, then you are dealing with a Mode 2 or Mixed Mode disc. For this procedure to work you will need to work with CDRWin and a supported device capable of DAO. EZCDPro will do these types of disks but it results in one ISO image plus however many Audio tracks there happen to be on the disk, each in WAV format. This results in an untrue image file, it also makes the burn a lot harder and you must get the WAV files back in the correct order or the disk is unusable. For this reason EZCDPro should NOT BE USED to make an image of one of these disks to post. Use it on your own if you must but do not post one of these images to the group. There are other possible technical problems using EZCDPro for this type of disk that could result in a coaster (like copy protection).

 
  Click "EXTRACT DISC/TRACKS/SECTORS" to bring up the Copy Discs/Tracks/Sectors dialog. Make sure "EXTRACT DISC/TRACKS/SECTORS" is selected. At this point you can also choose the CD Reader you want to read the disc from. We are interested in creating a "raw" image file. For AUDIO TRACK SETTINGS: under Transfer select "CDDA (2352)", under Jitter Correction select "automatic". For DATA TRACK SETTINGS: under Mode1 Transfer select "RAW (2352)" and under Mode2 Transfer select "RAW (2352)". Leave subcode options at default (automatic).

After checking your settings, click "Next". This will take you to the Copy Settings screen. Click on "Copy To Image File" and most of the other options will go dim. On the "Image File" line, type in the Drive/Directory/Name of the BIN file you want to create, for example:

E:\IMAGEDIR\IMAGENAME.BIN
Click "Finish" and the Disc will be read and written to the Drive/Directory/Name you have selected.

The result of the operation will be a BIN file and a CUE sheet. You will need both in order to burn this image. The CUE sheet tells CDRWin how the disk is to be laid out when writing the image. Without this CUE sheet the BIN file is useless.

For users whose CDR does not support DAO, your drive may still be supported to the point that you can actually make an image of a Multi Mode disc but you may not be able to test it. Please do not post an untested Mixed Mode file to the group, we don't want to do your testing.

[5.4] How do I archive the image for posting once it has been created?

Most people here use RAR/WINRAR to compress/split up the ISO file (Note: Keep in mind the diskspace requirements, you'll be doubling the ISO size as soon as you make the archive!). For the sake of uniformity, the founding members /creators /contributors to the FAQ, have pretty much settled on RAR as the standard compression tool. WinRar handles long filenames correctly and can usually be found at:
http://www.rarsoft.com/
and the crack/keygen can be found in ABWI, alt.cracks, or on most of the Crack Sites on the Web.

If you use the DOS version of RAR make sure you use the version that comes with WinRar 2.02. This one handles long filenames properly where older versions do NOT.

 

  1. Using WinRAR

     
      Locate the directory that you saved the .ISO to and click on the .ISO file so it's highlighted. Click on the Compress Icon on the Toolbar or Commands/Add Files To Archive to open the Enter Archive Name And Parameters dialog box.

    In the Archive line, put the Drive/Directory/Filename or the archive you want to create. Put the archives in their own directory, as this makes things easier to sort out when it's time to post. Use a unique, but descriptive, filename for the archive set as this helps avoid confusion with archive sets of the same warez created by others. For example: SickRick's archives all begin with "sr" (srphoto40 for PhotoShop) followed by a descriptive abbreviation of the warez title. Jasper always starts his with a "j".

    Set Compression to BEST.

    For Dictionary Size, use 1024K as this results in slightly better compression of single, large files (like .ISO's).

    The Volume Size setting has pretty much been been agreed to amongst the founders to be 2915200 bytes. This will result in an archive set of 2.77MB archives. Please try to stick to this. (NOTE: You may, on occasion, see someone post in 5MB parts. This is [usually <g>] not blatant disregard for our standards, but rather a courier posting the image as it was created for couriering purposes. These special folk get special dispensation).

    For Update Mode select Normal.

    For Archiving Options, try "Solid/Recovery Record". The debate still rages on about this. Supposedly including recovery will assist in repairing files with crc errors, but File Folder says this option actually screws up your chances of recovering messed up files. The Jury Is Still Out - More Will Be Revealed.

    If you happened to use a reg code generator, you can select "Authenticity" also. If this has been used, the downloader can double click on an archive file and go to Commands/Show Archive Info and get all the pertinent information about the archive set including the registered users name and the date of the archive.

    Check your settings, click the OK box, and GO TO SLEEP! Most archives of .ISO files take from 2 to 10 hours depending on speed of your system, etc. (NOTE: Reports indicate that the DOS version of RAR 2.02 is substantially faster at creating archives, to the tune of hours. Unless you really can't hack the idea of a command line interface, this may turn out to be the best idea).

  2. Using DOS RAR

     
      Open a DOS window and change directory to the location of the ISO file you created. Assuming RAR is in your path, type the following at the command line:
    rar a -m5 -ilog -v2915200b -mdE -s -av ArchiveName.001
    ISOfilename
    where ArchiveName is the name you have chosen for your post, and ISOfilename is the name of the ISO file.

    If you do not have a registered version of RAR, you should leave off the -ilog and -av parameters. All they do is create a log file and insert authenticity verification information into the archive, respectively.

    The archive created in this fashion will be numbered from .001 through as many parts as necessary. If you prefer the "standard" .Rxx format instead, replace the .001 above with .RAR.

    Now, while the DOS version has been observed to be considerably faster than the Windows version, this will still take a very long time. Think about starting this just before you go to bed so you can sleep while your computer groans along.

[5.5] OK, I'm done, right? Can I post it now?

No one wants to spend hours, if not days, if not WEEKS to get a complete set of archives only to find out it's NOT A GOOD ARCHIVE!!!

If you're going to take the time to play in this group, you'd better make sure your images are OK. I couldn't think of a better way to make serious enemies and lifelong resentments than to upload 400MB's of GARBAGE!

Uncompress your archive set (again, this needs LOTS OF DISK SPACE), and burn the .ISO to a disc (they're down to $2.00 or cheaper now), and install the thing.

One trick of software manufacturers is to not remove all their entries in the registry when uninstalling. If you then attempt to install an incorrectly created copy of the CD everything appears to work fine because the "copy protection keys" are still there.

Test your burn on a fresh drive or a friends system to be sure.

This sounds like a lot to ask, but this post will make a substantial impact on news servers and if its screwed up there are going to be a LOT of pissed off people that took the time to d/l 400MB and then only made coasters or copy protected discs that won't install properly.

TEST YOUR WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!

Now you're ready to post.

[5.6] How do you copy disc which are larger than 650mb? TIA
First, please don't use TIA as it has taken on the odor of the 'gimme gimme right damn now!' crowd. Leave it for the kiddies on kable.


If the CD is larger than 650 megs Read First & Last Track using SECTOR READ MODE
To Read those tracks:
Set (When in sector READ Mode) yourself to AUDIO/2352 same as RAW
MODE1&2 RAW 2352
Make sure you save those tracks as BINARY and READ THEM AS AUDIO/2352

Read the audio tracks also sector mode AUDIO save as AUDIO/2352

Example CUE File!!!!

FILE 1RSTDATA.BIN BINARY
TRACK 01 MODE1/2352
INDEX 01 00:00:00
POSTGAP 00:02:00

TRACK 02 AUDIO
INDEX 00 53:16:46
INDEX 01 53:18:46

TRACK 03 AUDIO
INDEX 00 72:42:50
INDEX 01 72:44:50

FILE 2NDDATA.BIN BINARY
TRACK 04 MODE1/2352
INDEX 01 00:00:00

This will make a 76 Minutes something CD
You absolutley must have a Writer capable of doing OVERBURNING (more
than 74 Min 47 Sec,) or one capable of writing to an extended CD, such as the 80-minute CD-R blanks now available. Check your CD-R's documentation before attempting to create either an overburn or extended burn.

You can use the following writers that I know only!!
- Yamaha 4260
- PlexWriter 4/12
- Teac 55C

All others need to burn the cracked version
PS: CD-RWin just copies everything provided you use it right!!!!!!.

Stolen from Pirahna in Message-ID: <36122500.57535702@207.126.101.101>

 

* Any software acquired should be bought if used *

 

Contact the FAQ Maintainers via email to mjolner@warezfaq.com

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