MONKEY Tales

Email Updates

(My Outrageously Newsy Kaleidoscope of Enjoyable Yarns)

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Welcome to Leah's email updates from the heart of equatorial Gabon. Here you'll find the latest installment of my adventures, as well as past MONKEY Tales for your reading pleasure. I hope you enjoy these ramblings, so dive in! The sun's hot, the rain's fierce, and the monkeys wanna play.

MONKEY TALES #2
(6/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #25
(3/13/04)

MONKEY TALES #24
(3/8/04)

MONKEY TALES #23
(2/12/04)

MONKEY TALES #22
(2/5/04)

MONKEY TALES #21
(1/31/04)

MONKEY TALES #20
(12/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #19
(12/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #18
(12/6/03)

MONKEY TALES #17
(12/1/03)

MONKEY TALES #16
(11/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #15
(11/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #14
(10/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #13
(10/16/03)

MONKEY TALES #12
(10/11/03)

MONKEY TALES #11
(10/4/03)

MONKEY TALES #10
(9/27/03)

MONKEY TALES #9
(9/19/03)

MONKEY TALES #8.5
(9/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #8
(9/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #7
(8/21/03)

MONKEY TALES #6
(8/14/03)

MONKEY TALES #5
(8/8/03)

MONKEY TALES #4
(7/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #3
(7/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #1
(7/17/03)

"YO!"
(6/27/03)

Bel ma sogha, we buedi? (Hello and how are you in the local Inzebi language). The internet is finally working today, I finished class hours early, and I have money to spend on the internet, so I'm finally able to update ya'll. I really can't explain how slow this is or how often it's not working, so please believe that I've been trying to get out a group email for over a week now to no avail.

1. As you know, I'm in Koula Moutou now, a provincial capital about a one-hour bush taxi ride away from Lastoursville (look on my home page www.oocities.org.haeljourney/ for a map). It took 8 hours on the train to get here plus the 1 hour bush taxi, and apparently that's record time.

2. My new family, the Lendjoughous, consists of one older papa, his three wives (one lives in Libreville), and somewhere around 28 kids. The best part? They're Catholic. His father foudned our neighborhood and my papa's a huge figure int he community, so I'm basically a princess. Everyone in our quartier (Koungu) is related to me, tho I'm still figuring out how. And, yes, I have all the ethnic babies I can handle, so don't worry. They used to see me walking home from school and would run away screaming "La blanche vient, la blanche vient! (the white girl's coming, the white girl's coming!)" Now the second they see me all the way at the end of the road, they come running into my arms with happy cries of "Tantie Leah, Tantie Leah! (Aunt Leah!)" and fight over who gets to hold my hand. With 28 kids, it's always intersting.

3. As all you know, I love eating and will try anything once...believe me, I think I already have. A lot of viande de brusse (bush meat), including antelope, gazelle, and porcupine; tripe, liver, kidneys, spazzy African eggplant, manioc (my new favorite food--too bad it's all starch and has no nutritional value), fried plantains, and a spice here called piment that is hotter than crushed red pepper, wasabi, or Allyn's mom's chili. I'm buying stock in it and bringing it homle by the caseloads. And of course, a lot of green leafy things (feuilles). Not much variety, but it's all delicious and I'm not picky, plus they always have basics like fish and chicken. I even spend all day cooking with them on Sundays, so it's been a joy. The only bout of intestinal trauma thus far occurred my first night with my family when I ate porcupine. NEVER again.

4. You'll prolly get a kick out of my living situation as well. Tho my fam's influential, we don't have running running water (everyone has electricity); tho some of my friends do. Thus, I have a small cement shower room attached to my small cement bedroom (pictures should be on my website soon). I fill up buckets from the pump outside and then scrub down by dumping handfuls of water over my body. This room also doubles as my "urination station", since they instructed me to pee there when I need to. I never feel fully clean, tho I have started washing my hair at the pump (with the help of all the younger girls) since it's easier and faster. Also, the big, hairy jungle spider that has taken up residence in my shower space inevitably appears, accompanied by creepy millipedes or roaches, so I try to get in and out ASAP. I accepted the fact that I'll be dirty for at least the next 8 weeks till I have my own place, so now I'm fine. Oh, and then there's the latrine. It's vile. Words are not picturesque or smelly enough; so I'll just say that after discovering that someone had completely missed the whole twice in one day, I've learned to control my needs till I can use the real toilet at the Peace Corps office. No joke.

5. Training is going well, and tho it's mental (and physical and emotional) bootcamp, I'm hanging there. However, 3 people will have gone home by tomorrow...2 guys and one girl, and I'm betting we lose about 2 more. We'll knw where we'll be stationed in two weeks, and then we go spend a week at our sites after that before returning for more training. Apparently that's another critical time, so we'll see what happens then. Other than that, a typical day consists of waking up at 7:30am, walking 30 minutes to class, 4 hours of French language, a 2 hour lunch break (I walk home and back), 4 hours of technical training for health, return for dinner, then hang out with the fam for about 3 hours till I head to my room for a "shower" and 30 minutes of journaling time before falling asleep around 10pm. It's like that almost 6 days a week and Sundays I have off, tho I spend it with my fam. The hardest part is not having time to myself to process, especially since most of you know that I need my "Leah time". Eh, I can handle it, and I haven't cried once tho I question myself all the time. My French is getting better and my family really only ever speaks Inzebi, so I'm picking that up as well.

6. There are 5 of us in our language class ( I tested into intermediate-mid, which is where everyone needs to be at the end of training, so I'm good) and my teacher, Djibril, is Senegalese and speaks no English, tho he's fluent in 7 other languages. He's dubbed me "McFail", or "Mac" for short, and everyone's starting to use that. I'm loving my new nickname, tho all the women here are called "momma", so I feel right at home no matter what :-)

7. If any of you want to send me presents, here's my wishlist...Gold Bond, toilet paper, stickers, M&M's, hard candy, incense, the new milk campaign ad (you know who you are!), and anything else at all. I will love you forever since mail is a commodity here and when I started having dreams about ice cream, I knew I needed something.

Alright; there's still so much to tell you, but this will have to do. Thank you to Allyn and others for the surprise addition to my webpage...I love it. Pictures should be up relatively soon I hope, and maybe email more frequently. I'm off now for home, where I'll have to step over burning trash, goats, chickens, naked babies, and raw sewage. Once at home I'll eat whatever then scare away the roaches/lizards/ants/spiders from my shower and pass out exhausted. Remeber, my number is (241) 38-90-35 and it's best to call between 7-10pm my time, tho I'll pick up anytime in the night even if I'm sleeping. I love you all and even tho I don't have time for individual replies very often, if at all, you're always on my mind.

Manioc-flavored kisses...
La Blanche