MONKEY Tales

Email Updates

(My Outrageously Newsy Kaleidoscope of Enjoyable Yarns)

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Welcome to Leah's email updates from the heart of equatorial Gabon. Here you'll find the latest installment of my adventures, as well as past MONKEY Tales for your reading pleasure. I hope you enjoy these ramblings, so dive in! The sun's hot, the rain's fierce, and the monkeys wanna play.

MONKEY TALES #3
(7/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #25
(3/13/04)

MONKEY TALES #24
(3/8/04)

MONKEY TALES #23
(2/12/04)

MONKEY TALES #22
(2/5/04)

MONKEY TALES #21
(1/31/04)

MONKEY TALES #20
(12/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #19
(12/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #18
(12/6/03)

MONKEY TALES #17
(12/1/03)

MONKEY TALES #16
(11/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #15
(11/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #14
(10/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #13
(10/16/03)

MONKEY TALES #12
(10/11/03)

MONKEY TALES #11
(10/4/03)

MONKEY TALES #10
(9/27/03)

MONKEY TALES #9
(9/19/03)

MONKEY TALES #8.5
(9/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #8
(9/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #7
(8/21/03)

MONKEY TALES #6
(8/14/03)

MONKEY TALES #5
(8/8/03)

MONKEY TALES #4
(7/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #2
(6/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #1
(7/17/03)

"YO!"
(6/27/03)

Mbolo (hello)! No class this afternoon (it's a rariety, I shouldn't get used to it) means that I have plentiful time to email, which I definitely need if I want to send an email longer than 2 lines. Anywho, here we go.

1. Food rules my life, as most of you know, but especially here. Nothing else can change the mood of a day more than good/bad culinary delights. Therefore, I have some festive stories to share with you regarding this topic. I've tried everything they've fed me so far, sometimes regretting my decision in the wee hours of the morning. It was no exception last week when they whipped the lid off a pot with great flourish to reveal chicken feet. MINGIN'! All the little tendons and joints still worked, the pads of the feet were all squishy, and there was no meat on them that I could pretend to eat. Oh, how I suffered...

2. Continuing with the food topic, I would like to discuss manioc. As you know, I love it and the rest of my group loathes it with a burning passion. We had a "talent show" last week for Koula Moutou and I was recruited for the manioc-eating contest where I competed with a native women to down the stuff as fast as possible. *A word to the wise if you ever feel inclined to try this at home...manioc is sticky and unswallowable unless coated in something wet and greasy. Otherwise it just clumps into a ball and you can't chew, let alone push the gluttunous mass down your esophagus. I think this passage from "The Poisonwood Bible" explains it perfectly: "It comes from a stupendous tuber, which the women cultivate and dig from the ground, soak in hollowed-out logs and boil. It has the nutritional value of a brown paper bag, with the added bonus of traces of cyanide. Yet it fills the stomach. It cools into the tasteless mass one might induce an American child to try once after a long round of pulled-up noses and double-dog dares." And yet a day without it and I feel depressed and lifeless...go figure.

3. Also tried a few more food offerings in the last week. Had the privilege of tasting the cacao fruit (yes, the origin of all the worldly goodness that is chocolate), tho we've all dubbed it the "intestinal mucous fruit". The inside consists of a clod of goo-covered pits which resemble innards and feel like sucking on a mucous wad (appetizing, I know). However, oince you get used to it, the taste and sensation is rather pleasant, I promise. Also, my body was going into dairy withdrawal, so I decided to try the street food you're supposed to avoid with a 10-ft poll...lait caille (translation: curdled milk). It's frozen in a little plastic baggie, which you rip open in order to suck out the frozen lumpy goodness. To me it tastes like peach yogurt, and since it's cold, 20 cents, and the only dairy around, it was worth the risk (half our group has gotten horrific diarrhea and half has been fine). I've eaten it 3 times so far with no problems, so I'm going to continue to tempt the powers that be until I become sicker than a dog.

4. This week in our Health classes, we've been learning about male and female anatomy and physiology. I can handle it fine in English, but try explaining fertilization and gametes in French. OY VEY. However, it's been amusing, since we have all these charts and diagrams of the sex organs in the front of the room and take turns placing the proper names in the proper places. Clitoris, vas deferens, ovaries, and urethra...OH MY!

5. Let me just tell you that washing machines are a gift from God and should be treated as such or I will hunt each and every one of you down and make you handwash all your clothes for 4 weeks, as I've been doing. Cleaning clothes for me involves a scrub brush, a bar of soap, and the community pump. All the mamas within viewing range of the pump come out to watch and laugh as I scrub away. I think I do fine, but inevitably after 10 minutes of ceaseless laughter, they make me stop and take over themselves...there's nothing I can do. And of course it takes 3 days for everythign to dry since the air's so thick with humidity you have to move it out of the way to breathe.

6. The other day I noticed that a tree near the house had been hacked to bits, so that there were basically no branches left. When I asked why, my Aunt Eleonore explained that they do that twice a year since they have a problem with snakes entering the house via the tree branches and popping out in the bedrooms weeks later. It's at times like that when I kinda wished I had remained ignorant to such practices.

7. I had been flying so high and happy for weeks now, that I knew I was boubd to crash and burn sometime soon. Sure enough, yesterday was the lowest I've ever been since arriving. Nothing happened to spark it, but I was just angry and annoyed with myself, Peace Corps, and Africa. I didn't want to speak French, my family was beyond aggrivating, 2 massive roaches appeared in my room, the way the people hear smell made me livid, and I didn't pay attention in class but instead sat there seething. I just wanted to be alone, but of course that's never possible here. However, such an attitude is dangerous, because if you can't pull out of it soon enough, you're done for. Thus, I did what I could...I spent 2 day's budget on a chocolate bar, had my sisters give me a "salon hairwash" at the pump upon returning home, and ate fresh papaya with dinner. Then I retired to my room early (the roaches were still there) were I took my laundry brush and systematically scrubbed myself raw--ritualistic cleansing if you will--which as many of you know, is the most relaxing thing I can do. I felt tons better and read/listened to music until I got tired. At that point it didn't even bother me that I could hear the roaches climbing over the walls and some animal knawing the wood in my ceiling from outside. I become so upset because Africa is so much harder than I want to admit to anyone, let alone myself. Every day is a struggle to keep my head above water and usually I'm fine, but every once in a while when I think about the commitment in front of me, I lose sight of the positive aspects and start to sink. Eh, I'll figure out a happy balance eventually.

Alright, I'm outta here to procure a bean sandwich for dinner (heaven in a baguette). Thank you to all the family and friends who have been calling me and therefore keeping me sane...I can never convey my thanks adequately enough. And to anyone who does NOT see the new Tomb Raider tomorrow in honor of me, I WILL hunt you down and make you endure hours of horrible African music videos. Peace, love, and sporadic sanity...

-Leah

P.S. By this time next week, I'll know where I'll be stationed!
P.P.S. Not trying to assume anything, but if anyone IS planning on sending me something for my birthday, send it now. Unless it arrives here by the end of staging, there's no promising that I'll be able to get to Libreville to pick them up until XMAS time, if not later. Just an FYI.