MONKEY Tales

Email Updates

(My Outrageously Newsy Kaleidoscope of Enjoyable Yarns)

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Welcome to Leah's email updates from the heart of equatorial Gabon. Here you'll find the latest installment of my adventures, as well as past MONKEY Tales for your reading pleasure. I hope you enjoy these ramblings, so dive in! The sun's hot, the rain's fierce, and the monkeys wanna play.

MONKEY TALES #12
(10/11/03)

MONKEY TALES #25
(3/13/04)

MONKEY TALES #24
(3/8/04)

MONKEY TALES #23
(2/12/04)

MONKEY TALES #22
(2/5/04)

MONKEY TALES #21
(1/31/04)

MONKEY TALES #20
(12/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #19
(12/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #18
(12/6/03)

MONKEY TALES #17
(12/1/03)

MONKEY TALES #16
(11/22/03)

MONKEY TALES #15
(11/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #14
(10/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #13
(10/16/03)

MONKEY TALES #11
(10/4/03)

MONKEY TALES #10
(9/27/03)

MONKEY TALES #9
(9/19/03)

MONKEY TALES #8.5
(9/14/03)

MONKEY TALES #8
(9/13/03)

MONKEY TALES #7
(8/21/03)

MONKEY TALES #6
(8/14/03)

MONKEY TALES #5
(8/8/03)

MONKEY TALES #4
(7/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #3
(7/24/03)

MONKEY TALES #2
(6/29/03)

MONKEY TALES #1
(7/17/03)

"YO!"
(6/27/03)

Back in the Franceville 'hood once again. Ngouoni life marches on and my days revolve around waiting for the electricity and/or water to come back on (randomly goes off and on all over town quite frequently and unprovoked.) I miss the pump back in Koula Moutou, but what can you do?

1. A younger man greeted Leigh and I last Sunday and said he had an invitation for us. Seeing as how we're trying to meet tons of people, we stopped and chatted for a while before we realized what the bloke was after...our souls. David turned out to be from the Christian Alliance and gave us a rambling lecture about the glory of God, giving ourselves to Him, etc. He wanted us to attend their service (which, by the way, lasts upwards of 5 hours), but we had no desire to and his methodology had turned us off to the idea long ago. We told him we had 2 years to attend and he said, "No, my sisters, if you die tomorrow you are not saved and cannot enter Heaven". We had been tactful up until then, but after that, we were done. I don't tolerate that sort of discussion at home very well, and I certainly wasn't about to put up with it in the rainforests of Central Africa. I was trying to figure out what to say when Leigh stepped in and said, "Je suis desole, David, mais nous sommes Juifs" (I'm sorry, but we're Jewish). That shut him up and we were able to make our exit while trying to suppress the giggles. Yup, the Catholic Ms. McFail is now apparently practicing Judiasm as well, tho I hope my soul won't burn forever because of my little white lie.

2. Dog stories, Part II...I noticed that there was a huge infection of sorts on Minger's tail earlier this week, kind of like an oozing crater which she kept biting at. I showed one of the local kids and he said, "Mac, c'est un sheik, tu doit le pincer" (it's a sheik, you need to pinch it). In case you've forgotten about African parasites already, refer to the picture on my website of one of the volunteers removing a sheik from Leigh Ann's foot. Anyway, the little buggers (also known as mango flies) nestle in under the skin and then poke out a small black snout to breathe. You have to suffocate them by dabbing any sort of petroleum-based ooze over their heads, then gently squeeze them out along with the egg sack. I took the squirming bundle of black and white fur onto my lap and set to work, fully intending to remove the tiny worm and accompanying eggs. Riiight. I started squeezing, only to realize that the worm had grown to over half an inch and was slimy and wriggling and white, a grotesque maggot. Completely vile, especially when I realized that Minger's tail is barely over an inch thick, so this sheik had been living in grand style for a while in my puppy's tail and I took sick pleasure in ending its miserable life. The gaping hole is healed now, tho it frightens me to know that the same situation is a possibility for me, tho hopefully I'd catch it sooner! On a side note, Leigh bought a dog this week and named her Bousco, which means "ugly" in the local language, Teke. She's even more full of worms than Minger, but the two of them have great fun and we have playdates all the time, tho it just makes us laugh at the emergence of our dopey maternal characteristics.

3. Also finally sucked it up and decided to have a "professional" come and debrousse my jungle of a yard, since it had become a bit overwhelming. Thus, last weekend found me and Minger outside with a Nigerian named "Commando" and his 2 machetes as he hacked away at shrubberies (Monty Python!), vines, and trees for over 3 hours. I can actually see the road now and no longer feel as if I'm being swallowed alive by gaping, green, cavernous jaws, tho I've been assured that the rainy season will quickly render his work obselete. Blah.

4. In other news, I also started "work" at the hospital this week. A typical day entails making rounds with the other nurses and the doctors for about 15 minutes (I somehow manage to follow the diagnosis discussions which ensue), followed by sitting around and waiting for patients to show up. I'm in the maternity section, which means I'll be doing baby weighings, talking with mothers, etc., tho I'm simply observing now. I've already witnessed two gyno exams and I put the word out that if anyone gives birth I want to be there to watch (I'll prolly regret that decision, but oh well). A woman of 30 came in this week for a pre-natal consultation, and when asked if she had any other children, she said yes, 10. Stevie (the nurse I work with) went OFF in a total tirade about how she's an at-risk pregnancy, needs to stop making babies, what about the future of her other 10 kids...amazing to see all my classroom training come to life before my eyes. Stevie finally said that she would not allow the woman to give birth at the hospital in Ngounoi because she was in danger, and would therefore have to go to Franceville. The woman seemed non-plussed through the whole thing and thanked us both warmly before leaving. Talk about strange. And before you start conjuring up any grand delusions about the hospital, allow me to describe it. Hardly any working overhead lights, tho the maternity office does have air conditioning (sweet respite!). The hopital beds are dirty foam blocks covered in sheets, (which the patients have to provide, along with their own food). Exam tables are never washed and not covered in any sort of disposable paper. The building smells musty and always looks dingy, and one of my favorite parts of the day is watching the women sweep the floors of the bugs and grime which collect overnight: struggling cockroaches on their backs, massively oversized, albeit dead, grasshoppers, ants, worms, beetles...a vertiable book of jungle fauna in front of my eyes, and just as quickly, swept outside.

Alright, c'est tout. I couldn't buy a phone this week because the guy went to Libreville until Monday, even tho he said to come by today. ARGH! Thus, Leigh's phone tomorrow (61.39.00) for anyone who wants to try, tho I'll have it starting later tonight as well. I also don't think I'll be checking email next week, as we're talking about taking a field trip to another town (without email) to visit our buddies. However, if you ever need to reach me for something important, just call's Leigh's phone and she'll let you know when you can call back and talk to me. I've been here 110 days! Happy October!

Soooo snoozy (my filaria medicine knocks me out)
-Big Mac