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The Beaches of Sihanoukville
Miles of fine white sand
beaches line the coast around Sihanoukville and about 6
km of these are easily accessible from town. The area is
divided into four main beaches, each separated from the
other as much by character as the rocky points between.
Sokha
Beach
No doubt the busiest beach (perhaps too busy some
weekends), Sokha offers a good co mbination
of facilities and quality beach area. The beach is wide
enough so there is plenty of sand left come high tide,
palm trees dot the line between sand and grass offering
refuge from the sun and there is a nice seafood
restaurant (Sokha) and plenty of small drink
vendors close by. Lots of tubes for rent, and small
drink/snack vendors.
Sokha’s one km of beach is bounded by rocky points which
snorkelers find inviting. People more often snorkel off
the southern point as it has the easiest access from the
beach. It is also possible to stay dry and see some sea
life by hiking around the southern point at low tide to
check out the small tide pools.
Ochheuteal Beach
known as UNTAC Beach in the early 1990s, is long and
narrow, hotels and restaurants at the near end.
Ochheuteal seems to appeal to weekenders from Phnom Penh
and visitors seeking middle to upper range facilities on
the beach. The near end has several nice hotels
including the middle-upscale Seaside and
Crystal
and
mid-range
Holiday and
Orchidee. There are also two restaurants,
Sea Dragon and the western-managed
Les Feuilles, within walking distance of the
hotels. Bucking Ochheuteal’s mid-range trend, several
relatively inexpensive guesthouses have recently sprung
up.
The far end of Ochheuteal used to be a quiet getaway
place but has recently been closed off for a development
project. If Ochheuteal has a weakness, it’s the lack of
shade trees and the occasional sand fleas. Shade is no
problem as there are always nearby grass umbrellas, but
the sand fleas can sometimes be annoying.
At Ochheuteal’s extreme northern end is the recently
dubbed ‘Serendipity
Beach’. Cut off from the rest of Ochheuteal and
harboring a couple of small budget restaurants including
Chuck’s Other Place, Serendipity is a great
little budget getaway corner of a beach.
Independence Beach
This beach gets its name from the deserted hulk of the
Independence Hotel on the north point. Locals call this
beach ‘otel bram-pul jawn (hotel 7-stories). It
is labeled ‘7 chann beach’ on the in-town street sign.
Independence has Sokha’s length, but the sandy area is
much narrower, making it best when the tide is low. The
beach is wider and more touristed toward the northwest
end, near a small fresh water lake (which is the source
of the town’s fresh water and is rumored to contain
crocodiles). At the other end is the beach’s only hotel,
Sea Breeze. Grass umbrellas and drink vendors now
line the beach from end to end but it is still much less
frequented than other beaches. The road up to the old
Independence Hotel is often frequented by a small troop
of Rhesus monkeys.
Victory
Beach
Victory is really two beaches divided by a rocky point
and a small hill. The southern beach, sometimes referred
to as ‘Hawaii Beach’, ‘King’s Beach’ and ‘South Channel
Beach’, is home to the
Hawaii Seaview Restaurant and little else but
sand, trees and view. The northern beach is a park at
one end
and
a port at the other. Both beaches are great places to
watch sunset.
At over two kilometers, Victory is quite long, and like
Independence, the sandy area is narrow, making low tide
the best time. It is a good place to watch the big ships
coming and going. At the north end there are several
businesses including the ornate Chney Molop Chhrey
seafood restaurant and the Holiday Palace Casino and
Hotel. Near the Victory monument is Weather Station
Hill with a fast growing number of budget-friendly
places including
Chez Mari-Yan,
MASH,
Mealy Chenda, Sam’s,
Melting Pot,
Chuck’s Place, and others. The beach below the
hill is within easy walking distance, but is not the
best quality beach in Sihanoukville. Yet, it is still
frequented by locals and budget travelers. from the
hill.
WATCH OUT !!!
Do not leave
your things unattended on the beach! There have been
several reported thefts of cameras, purses and other
belongings left on the beach while the owner was
swimming, strolling, sleeping or otherwise distracted.
Other Beaches
These ‘other’ beaches are outside of the town area and
are frequented more by fishermen than tourists though
this is slowly changing. Road conditions can be
challenging, especially in the wet season.
Otres Beach
is the next beach south of Ochheuteal. It is the twin
sister of Ochheuteal, but is almost completely deserted
save a few new houses and walls at the near end. A
single road traces the beach’s 3km to a police post at
the far end. To get there, either: 1) Hike around the
rocks at the far end of Ochheuteal; 2) Take Omui St.
southeast about 4km to a fork and turn right. At the
next opportunity take a left. It is 2km to the beach. 3)
Take 1 Kanda St. almost to the end of Ochheuteal. Turn
left and cross a crumbling wood bridge over the
Chheuteal Creek. Go about 1 km, turn right and continue
another 2 km to the beach. Bridges are sometime out and
the road may be sandy.
Ream Beach,
near the Ream Navel Base, is more heavily trafficked by
fisherman than Otres but is still rather isolated.
Behind the beach is a mangrove swamp which attracts a
wide variety of tropical birds. The swamp is also home
to many fisherman. The beach area is under the auspices
of the Ream National Park which has guesthouse
facilities near the beach (see pg 21). Take Route 4
north to the Ream intersection. Turn right, go 12km to
the ocean. Turn right. The road from the highway is
rough but usually passable.
Depot Beaches
lie just off Hun Sen Beach Dr. north of town. Most of
the beaches are quite narrow and the water is shallow
and can be very warm. Take the Hun Sen Beach Dr. well
past the port and look to the left for small beaches.
Note: Fairly good road.
Sunset
Points
Every beach town should
have a sunset point. Sihanoukville has several. Most
people opt fo r
the beaches to watch sunset. During the rainy season,
Victory offers the best sunsets. In the dry season,
Independence, Sokha and Ochheuteal also have prime
shows. Of the restaurants, Bedrock Cafe,
Chez Mari-yan, Chez Claude,
Mealy Chanda, Peak and
Hawaii Seaview offer the best vistas. My
favorite beach spot is the fishing camp at the base of
the hill between north and south Victory beaches. The
fishing boats in the foreground and Snake Island on the
horizon can be quite photogenic. Perhaps the best sunset
point is at the top of Sihanoukville Mountain. The rocks
at the top face west and offer a beautiful view of the
town, the port, the ocean and islands.
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