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KAMPONG SPEU
Kampong Speu, west of
Phnom Penh and almost on the capital’s doorstep, is
a province often overlooked, but an ideal place to
get off the beaten track.
Speu is the Khmer word
for starfruit, but Kampong Speu is actually famous
for its palm sugar, considered the best in the
Kingdom. It also Produces plenty of teuk t’not chu
or Palm wine.
Cambodia’s tallest
mountain located in the landlocked province bordered
by Kandal, Koh Kong, Pursat, Kampot, Takeo and
Kampong Chhnang. That is Mount Aoral (Phnom Aoral)
at 1813 meters abotu sea level.
There are eight
districts in Kampong Speu, Divided into 89 communes
and 1,319 villages, and 5.2 per cent of Cambodia’s
population lives here.
Kampong Speu twon is
less than an hour from Phnom Penh down National
Route 4-the road which eventually takes you south
to Sihanoukville.
TEUK PHOH,
Although not a volcanic
country, Cambodia boasts hot springs, high in the
foothills of Mount Aoral. These are called Teuk Phoh,
which means water emerging.
Just after Kampong Speu
town in Chhbar Mon district, a poorly paved road
marked with signs for several NGOs including LWS and
Acleda turns off to the right as you head away from
Phnom Penh.
at the second
intersection turn right agian onto the road to Mount
Aoral. Keep following this road for about 60
kilometers. Most bridges are out, but it is more
than passable by car or trail bike. At a tree-way
intersection i a large village after about two hours
of traveling, contine going straight and you will
reach teuk Phoh, unspoiled by almost any tourist
develop-ment. A sign in English says “Hot Water”.
There are two shrines close to tactual spring and a
picnic area on the other side of the road.
The local people here
are not ethnic Khmer but Suoy-a type of hill tribe
people. To them, Teuk Phoh is a holy place and the
waters can cure illness, but they also believe that
people who do not respect the spirits there, taking
souvenirs and ignoring the prisine nature of the
place, will be struck down with mysterious illnesses
or even die.
The water is hot enough
to voil an egg, and not deep enough to swim in, even
if it was possible, but it is a peaceful spot. this
place is becoming increasingly popular with Phnom
Penh people as a place to relax on weekends, and
vendors at the site can supply you with cold drinks
and fruit, although most khmer bring their own
picnic lunches with them.
AMPER PHNOM (SMALL
MOUNTAIN)
If just relaxing and
spending a quiet day picnicking and strolling by the
river sounds attractive, this quiet little resort of
might just be the ticket. About five kilometers
before Kampong Speu town, turn left down a small
road signposted in Khmer and English. Cross a river
an there is a spacious picnic area with a large
wooden suspension bride (about 20 meters in length).
Here hundreds of monkeys wait for visitors to buy
bananas , watermelon and sugarcane to feed them, and
an elephant provides rides at 5000 riel ($1.25) a
time.
The swinging bride costs
just 500 riel walk over and is the only way across
in wet season, when the river swells to four times
its dry season volume.
The usual offerings of
Khmer soups barbeued chicken and fish and roasted
banana are available. This lushly forested spot is
just 55 kilometers from Phnom Penh and is a pleasant
place to spend an afternoon, and on weekdays you
avoid the crowds.
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