Diu is for many the
highlight of Gujarat with its relaxed pace of life, decaying
Portuguese architecture, huge fort and quiet beaches.
Like Daman and Goa,
Diu was a Portuguese colony until it was taken over by India in
1961. Along with Daman, it is still governed from Delhi as a
Union Territory rather than as part of Gujarat. The former
colony includes the island of Diu, about 13km long and by 3km wide,
separated from the coast by a narrow channel. There are also
two tiny mainland enclaves. One of these, where the village of
Ghoghla stands, is the entry point to Diu from Una.
The
northern side of the island, facing Gujarat, is tidal marsh and
saltpans while the southern coast alternates between limestone
cliffs, rocky coves and sandy beaches.
The
island's main industry is fishing, followed by booze and salt.
Kalpna Distillery at Malala produces rum from sugar cane. Diu
town has many bars where visitors from the "dry" mainland
can enjoy a beer.
Diu
is a popular hang-out iwth travelers and you'll probably see more
foreigners here than anywhere else in Gujarat. Although the
beaches are nothing compared to Goa's, it is still a great place to
let your hair down and watch the world drift by.
Diu - History
Between the 14th and
16th centuries Diu was an important trading post and naval base from
which the Ottomas controlled the shipping routes in the northern
part of the Arabian Sea.
Portugal made an
unsuccessful attempt to capture the island in 1531, during which
Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat, was assisted by the Turkish
navy. The Portuguese finally secured control in 1535 by taking
advantage of a quarrel between the sultan and the Mughal Emperor,
Humayun.
Under pressure from
both the Portuguese and the Mughals, Bahadur concluded a peace
treaty with the Portuguese, effectively giving them control over the
port at Diu. The treaty was soon cast to the wind and,
although both Bahadur Shah and his successor, Sultan Mahmud III,
attempted to contest the issue, the peace treaty that was eventually
signed in 1539 ceded the island of Diu and the mainland enclave of
Ghoghla ot Portugal. Soon after the signing of this treaty,
the Portuguese began constructing their fort.
The Indian
government appears to have an official policy of playing down the
Portuguese era. Seven Rajput soldiers and a few civilians were
killed in Operation Vijay, which ended Portuguese rule in 1961.
Diu - Orientation &
Information
The
tourist office is on Bander Road, the main road that run through Diu
Town parallel to the waterfront. It has transport information
and simple (free) maps. You can change money at the State Bank
of Saurastra near the town square, but at lower rates than on the
mainland. They are reluctant to change large amounts.
Many shops around Diu town also change money.
The main post
office overlooks the town square and there's another branch at
Ghoghla. Both Hotel Alishan (Rs. 75 per hour) and Dee Pee
Telecom (Rs. 100 per hour); have internet access.
Diu Town
Laid-back Diu
Town (population 38,500) was the first landing point for the
Parsis when they fled from Persia, although they stayed only
three years.
The town is
sandwiched between the massive fort to the east and a huge
city wall to the west. The main Zampa Gateway in the
wall has carvings of lions, angels and a priest, while just
inside the gate is a miniature chapel with an icon, dating
from 1702. Just to the south, outside the wall, is the
Zampa Waterfall, a strange artificial creation that is lit up
at night.
St Paul's is
the only church in town still fulfilling its original function
and services the island's tiny Christian population.
Nearby is St Thomas' Church, which houses the Diu Museum
(entry by donation, open 8am to 9pm daily). There's an
interesting collection of Catholic statues. If you
thought the Hindu pantheon was confusing, take a look at the
bewildering collection of Christian saints. There are
also some stone remnants of a Jain Temple which is thought to
have once occupied the site. St Francis of Assisi has
been converted into a hospital.
Unlike Daman,
many buildings in Diu show a significant Portuguese
influence. The town is a maze of narrow, winding streets
and many of the houses are brightly painted. Further
away from this tightly packed residential quarter, the streets
turn into meandering and often leafy lanes and it's well worth
a couple of hours exploring the area.
In a small
park on the esplanade, between the square and the police
station, the Marwar Memorial, topped by a griffin,
commemorates the liberation of the island from the Portuguese.
Completed in
1541, the massive Portuguese fort, with its double moat (one
tidal) must once have been virtually impregnable, but sea
erosion and neglect are leading to a slow but inevitable
collapse. Piles of cannon balls litter the place and the
ramparts have a superb array of cannons; many are still in
good condition. A small chapel holds engraved tombstone
fragments. The fort, part of which also serves as the
island's jail, is open from 7 am to 6 pm daily. Entry is
free and photography is allowed.
Around the
Island
Temple
- and fort - satiated travelers used to head to Nagoa to
catch up on some serious relaxation. Although it's
still a pleasant palm-fringed beach and is safe for
swimming, it's quite busy now a days, and Western women
tend to get unwanted attention from the numerous young
Indian men hanging around. Gomptimata, to the west
is a sandy beach that is still relatively deserted, and
get big waves. Beaches within easy reach of Diu
Town include, from east to west, Jallandhar, Chakratirth
and the stunning Sunset Point.
At the
extreme west of the island, Vanakbara has a church (Our
Lady of Mercy), fort, lighthouse, small bazaar, post
office and fishing fleet. This little fishing
village is worth a visit - wander through the town to
the port area where you can see the locals mending nets
and repairing their colorful fishing boats.
Places to Stay
and Eat
Places
to Stay
Most
hotels offer a discount in the low season, but it's
worth bargaining at any time of the year, as places will
slash prices by as much as 60% if they are not
full. Your chances of success are greater if
you're staying for more than a couple of days.
Prices given here are for the peak season, and, unless
stated otherwise, the rooms have a cold water bathroom
with squat toilet. Most places have noon check out
time.
Diu
Town
Hotel
Krishna Guest house, on the west side of town is a small
place with simple single/double/triple rooms for only Rs.
75/100/150. Some rooms are better than the others.
Hotel
Prince, nearly, charges Rs. 300 per double. Those
on the second floor have good views from the balconies.
Hotel
Samrat (+91 2875 52354), a couple of blocks south of the
town square, has very pleasant double rooms with nice
bathrooms, balconies and satellite TV for Rs. 350 and
single/doubles with air condition for Rs. 500/650.
Room service is available. There's a good
restaurant and bar, and if the kitchen is not busy, the
chef will cook fish bought by guests at the fish market
for about Rs. 50
Super
Silver Guest House (+91 2875 52020), a block south of
the vegetable market, is a new place with spotless and
spacious rooms (good bathrooms) for a highly negotiable
Rs. 200/300. The owner is eager to please.
Uma
Shakti Hotel (+91 2875 52150), next door, is another
good choice with decent doubles for Rs. 200/600
without/with air condition. The terrace garden bar
and restaurant on the roof is a lovely place for a meal,
beer or breakfast (the cheese omelet for Rs. 30 is particularly
good).
Hotel
Alishan (+91 2875 52340, Bander Road) next door is
better value with decent rooms with TV and
balcony. Double rooms with views cost Rs. 200/500
in low/high season or Rs. 600/800 with air
condition. There are cheaper rooms at the back and
there is a restaurant, bar and internet acces. The
restaurant does a good fish tandoor (Rs. 100).
Hotel
Sao Tome Retiro is one of the better choices.
Located on the southern fringes of Diu town, upstairs in
St Thomas' Church and museum, its five rooms are
atmospheric, large and most have wonderful views.
It's a homely, quiet place with the smaller rooms
costing Rs. 175/200 for short/long stays and larger
rooms cost Rs. 200/300. George D'Souza, the
friendly young manager, organizes barbecue parties most
evenings.
Jallandhar
Beach
This
is a lovely quiet area to stay in, though it's only an
easy 10 minutes walk to Diu town. The summer House
lookout point is a stone's throw away.
Diu
Tourist Cottages (+91 2875 52654) offers pleasant and
spacious cottages with double or twin beds for Rs.
600/800 without/with air condition. Many rooms
have sea views, and its Pelican Bar & Restaurant is
not bad. There are also some pool tables.
Jay
Shankar Guest House (+91 2875 52420), near Diu Tourist
Cottages, has doubles from Rs. 100 to 250 (with balcony
and sea view). It's good value. The attached
Nilkanth Restaurant serves good fish dishes although the
other offerings are a tad mediocre.
Fudam
to Nagoa Beach
Resort
Hoka (+91 2875 53036) is on the main road. It has
doubles for Rs. 350 and the management seems eager to
please.
Radhika
Beach Resort (+91 2875 52555), also in the vicinity, has
come highly recommended by a number of travelers.
Very comfortable rooms cost Rs. 1000/1750. There's
a nice swimming pool and a good, reasonably priced
restaurant.
Ghoghla
Suzlon
Beach Hotel (+91 2875 52212) is in the village of
Ghoghla on the mainland (where there's a good
beach). This is the first building in Diu after
you come through the barrier that marks the border with
Gujarat. Renovated air-conditioned doubles cost Rs.
1400; a suite is Rs. 1600. There is pleasant
restaurant and bar overlooking the sea.
Places
to Eat
Beer
and drinks are blissfully cheap in Diu - from Rs. 30 for
a large kingfisher and even a Fosters. Food is
rarely anything to write home about, although the fish
is usually good.
Aarti
is a relaxed traveler restaurant, with wall hangings and
Western music. Pizzas (from Rs. 50) are excellent
and there are usually good fish specialities.
Getting There
and Away
Air
Jet
Airways flies to Mumbai (US$95) at 12.15 pm daily except
Saturday.
Bus
STC
departures from Jethibai bus stand are ususally
inconvenient. Buses are for Rajkot, Ahmedabad,
Jamangar, Porbander and Bhavnagar. However, there
are more civilized and frequent departure times form Una.
Buses
go from Diu to Mumbai at 10 am (Rs. 350, 22 hours) and
to Ahmedabad (RS. 150, 10.5 hours) at 7 pm. Book
in Advance.
Getting
Around
Auto rickshaw
drivers will demand Rs. 100 from Diu town to Una, and
generally want higher prices. To travel anywhere
within Diu should cost no more than Rs. 15. To
Nagoa Beach pay about Rs. 30 and to Sunset Point about
Rs. 20. Share rickshaws to Ghoghla cost Rs. 3 per
person.
Mopads
are ideal for getting around the island - the roads are
relatively deserted and are in good condition. The
going rate per day is Rs. 100 for a mopad (plus
fuel). Motorcycles with leg gears cost Rs.
150. Most hotels can arrange mopeds although the
quality is variable. A deposit of Rs. 500 is
usually required.
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