Somnath - Introduction
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STD Code: 02876
Somnath has a large
fair at the full moon of Kartika Purnima in Novermber/December.
Most travelers prefer to stay in Veraval, 6km away, where there is a
wider range of accommodation, eating and transport options. |
Temple of Somnath
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This Temple at Somnath,
near Veraval and about 80km from Junagadh, has an extremely
chequered past. Its earliest history fades into legend - it is
said to have originally been built out of gold by Somraj, the moon
god, only to be rebuilt by Rawana in Silver, then by krishna in wood
and by Bhimdev in Stone. A description of the temple by Al
Biruni, an Arab traveler, was so glowing that it prompted a visit in
1024 by a most unwelcome tourist - Mahmud of Ghazni. At that
time, the temple was so wealthy that it had 300 musicians, 500
dancing girls and even 300 barbers just to shave the heads of
visiting pilgrims.
Mahmud of Ghazni,
whose raids on the riches of India are legendary, descended on
Somnath from his Afghan kingdom and after a two-day-battle, took the
town and the temple. Having looted its fabulous wealth, he
destroyed it for good measure. So, began a pattern of Muslim
destruction and Hindu rebuilding that continued for centuries.
The temple was again razed in 1297, 1394 and finally in 1706 by
Aurangzeb, the notorious Mughal fundamentalist.
After the 1706
demolition, the temple was not rebuilt until 1950. Outside,
opposite the entrance, is a statue of S V Patel (1875-1950), who was
responsible for reconstruction.
The current temple
was built to traditional designs on the original site by the
sea. It contains one of the 12 sacred Shiva shrines known as jyoti
linga. Photography is prohibited inside the temple, and
you must leave your camera at the hut outside. There is a grey-sand
beach outside the temple which is part of the temple's lonely
seaside charm.
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Museum and Other
Attractions
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the lane from the temple is a museum, open from 8.30am to 12.15pm
and 2.30 to 6pm (closed Wednesdays and every second and fourth
Saturday). There's a small entry fee. Remains of the
temple can be seen here as a jumble of old carved stones littering a
courtyard.
Halfway between
Veraval and Somnath is the Bhalka Tirth where Krishna was mistaken
for a deer and wounded by an arrow while sleeping in a
deerskin. The legendary spot is at the confluence of three
rivers. You get to it through the small sangam (confluence
gate), which is simply known as the Nana, or Small Gate. North
of this sacred spit is the Suraj Mandir or Temple of the Sun, which
Mahmud of Ghazni also had a go at knocking down. This very old
temple, with a frieze of lions with elephant trunks around its
walls, probably dates from the same time as the original Somnath
Temple.
Somnath - Places to
Stay and Eat
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Sri Somnath
Temple Trust Guest House (+91 2876 20212) is rather
dilapidated; its name is written only in Gujarati. Go to
the booking office first, directly opposite the bus
stand. The cheaper rooms are a bit dingy and cost Rs.
60/100 for a double/triple. The best rooms cost Rs. 350
or Rs. 550 with air conditioned. This place is primarily
for pilgrims.
Hotel Mayuram
(+91 2876 31286), just down the road heading away from temple,
has light doubles for Rs. 400. Air conditioned rooms
come with three beds and cost Rs. 700.
There are
dozens of Cheap restaurants between the temple and Hotel
Mayruam.
Somnath -
Getting There and Away
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| Bus
Somnath
has fewer departures from neighboring Veraval, but the
STC bus stand does service Jamanagar, Porbandar and
Dwarka. There is also daily departures to Diu and
Rajkot. Unusually the timetable is printed in
English. Mama Treavels directly opposite the bus
stand, has a 9 pm departure to Ahmedabad (Rs. 130, 10
hours). |
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Photograph of Somnath
Temple
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