This last refuge of
the Asiatic lion (Panthera leo persica) is 59km from Junagadh via
Visavadar. The 1400 sq km sanctuary was set up to protect the
lion and its habitat: Since 1980 numbers have increased from less
than 200 to an estimated 325 in May 2000. However, while the
lions have been the winners, the local maaldharis (herders) have
lost valuable grazing land for their catle. Moves by the
Madhya Pradesh government to transfer 200 lions to the Pulpur Kuno
Sanctuary in Madhya Pradesh have been indefinitely halted by Gujarat
Government, but there are no concrete plans to address the
difficulties caused by the competition for scarce reasons.
Although the lions
seem remarkably tame, in recent years they have reportedly been
wandering well outside the limits of the sanctuary n search of easy
game - namely calves. The problem is compounded by the
declining areas of forest outside the sanctuary, forcing villagers
to forage for fuel within the sanctuary precincts, reducing the
habitat of the lions.
Apart from lions,
there are more than 30 other species, including leopards (268 in
1995), hyenas (137), foxes, wild boars and a number of deer and
antelope. The deer include the largest Indian antelope (the
nilgai), the graceful chinkara gazelle, the chowsingha and the
barking deer. You may also see parrots, peacocks, crocodiles
and monkeys.
The best time to
visit the sanctuary is from December to April; It's closed
from 16th June to 15th October, even later if there has been a heavy
monsoon.
Sasan Gir Wildlife
Sanctuary - Safaris
The lions are elusive,
but you would be unlucky not to see at least one on a safari.
If you're determined to spot one, allow for a couple of trips.
Understandably, the lions retreat into the undergrowth during Indian
holiday periods when convoys of jeeps roar through the park.
Morning safaris are generally a better bet than those in the
afternoon. Unfortunately, the standard of the local guides is
variable and most speak little English.
The Gujarat
Government has drastically increased the cost of most of the park's
services, meaning that a stay at Sasan Gir can be expensive.
Before you can go on safari, you must get a permit. These are
issued on the spot at the Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge office and cost Rs.
30/US$ 5 for Indians/Foreigners. The permit is valid for the
whole day. Vehicle entry costs Rs. 50/US $ 10 for four
hours, plus Rs. 50/US$5 for camera and a ridiculous Rs. 2500/US$200
for a nonprofessional video. The guide's fee for a group is
set at Rs. 50/US$10, and if your guide's been keen and searched hard
then a tip is certainly appreciated. Jeep can be hired (US$
10) from the lodge office from around 6 and 10 am and 3 to 5 pm
everyday during winter (October to February); there are shorter
hours from March to June. Although prices are quoted in US
dollars, payment is exclusively in rupees.
Private
diesel vehicles cannot be used to tour the sanctuary. Whatever
else you do take a jeep and not a minibus, while the latter stick to
the main tracks, the jeeps can take the small trails where you are
much more likely to come across lions.
Gir Interpretation
Zone
Twelve
kilometers from Sasan village at Devalia, within the sanctuary
precincts, is the Gir Interpretation Zone. The 4.12 sq km zome
has a cross section of the wildlife in Gir, so you'd be certain to
see a lion here if you've been unlucky in the main sanctuary.
The cost to enter the zone, including your jeep, permit and guide is
around Rs. 1050 per person, although cheaper mini safaris in a
minibus cost around Rs. 590. To get there from Sasan Gir,
vehicles run from the main street for Rs. 150. Although your
chances of seeing lions here are good, it's all a bit stage-managed
and not perticularly good value for money as you're only likely to
get 30 to 45 minutes looking for wildlife.
Places to Stay and
Eat
There are only a
few places to stay at Sasan Gir village. It's good idea
to make an advance booking, as rooms can suddenly fill up.
Sinh Sadan
Forest Lodge is a five minute walk from the train station and
is the center of most of the action. It is however,
outrageously priced at US$30/50 plus tax for a room
without/with air-condition; Indians pay Rs. 500/1000.
Even a dorm costs US$ 5 (Rs. 50 for Indians). Veg meals
are available for Indian/foreigners at Rs. 70/US$5, nonveg
costs Rs. 110/US$5, breakfast Rs. 40/US$ 2 and tea or coffee
is silly Rs. 7/US$ 1.
There are a
couple of good cheaper options in town, although officials
keen to cash in will try and push you towards the Sinh Sadan.
Rajeshri Guest House, opposite the gate of Sinh Sadan charges
Rs. 300 for a double with private bathroom outside holiday
period (Rs. 500 during Diwali).
Hotel Umang,
signposted off the main road 100m west, is quieter and pretty
good value for Rs. 500/800 a single/double. There is a
dining hall and the manager can arrange for jeeps.
Gir Lodge,
down by the river about 200m from the Sinh Sadan Forest Lodge,
is a pleasant up market hotel operated by the Taj Group,
although it's not quite up to the standard of other hotels in
the chain. Well appointed, but nothing special, rooms
including three meals (but not taxes) cost US$60/110 or
US$71/120 with air condition. Checkout is noon.
The hotel's restaurant is open to nonguests if things are
quiet and you book ahead. Management can arrange jeeps.
The main
street of Sasan village is lined with food stalls, grocery
stores and a few restaurants doing not much more than thalis.
Hotel Gulmohal, at the western end, is probably the pick with
reasonable South Indian and Punjabi food. Murlidhar
Parotha House is more rough and ready, but is otherwise OK.
Getting there
and Away
STC
and express buses travel between Junagadh and Veraval
via Sasan Gir regularly throughout the day. The
45km trip to Veraval takes 1.5 hours (Rs. 15). To
Junagadh, the 59km trip takes around 2 hours (Rs.
18). You can also find trains for these
destinations.
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