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Strewn with 863
temples, the hilltop complex of Shatrunjaya (the Place of Victory)
is one of Jainism's holiest pilgrimage sites. The temples were
built over a period of 900 years on a hilltop dedicated entirely to
the gods; at dusk, even the priests depart from the temples, leaving
them deserted.
Almost all the
temples are Jain, and this hill demonstrates their belief that merit
is derived from constructing temples. The hilltops are bounded
by sturdy walls and the temples are grouped into nine tunks
(enclosures) - each with a central temple with many minor ones
clustered around. Some of the earliest temples here are built
in the 11th century, but were destroyed by Muslims in the 14th and
15th centuries; the current temples date from the 16th century
onwards.
The hilltop affords
a very fine view in all directions; on a clear day you can see the
Gulf of Cambay beyond Bhavnagar. The most notable of the
temples is dedicated Shri Adishwara, one of the most important Jain tirthankars.
Note the frieze of dragons around this temple. Adjacent is
the Muslim shrine of Angar Pir. Women who want children make
offerings of miniature cradles at this shrine.
Built in 1618 by a
wealthy Jain merchant, the Chaumukh, or four-faced shrine, has
images of Adinath facing out in the four cardinal directions.
Other important temples are those dedicated to Kumar Pal, Sampriti
Raj and Vimal Shah.
The temples are
open from 6.30am to 5.30pm. A photography permit can be
purchased for Rs. 50 just inside the main entrance. (There are
two entrances - the main one is reached by taking the left-hand fork
as you near the top of the hill; the other is reached by the
right-hand fork.) Shoes should be removed at the entrance to
the compound, and leather items, including belts and begs, should
not be brought onto the site.
A hourse cart to
the base of the hill costs Rs. 20, or you can walk from the Palitana
bus stand in about 30 minutes. The heat can be extreme by late
morning, so, it's good idea to start early for the ascent.
Water can be bought at intervals, and you can buy refreshing curd in
pottery bowls outside the temple compound for Rs. 10.
The 600m ascent
from the base of the hill to the summit is 2km, up more than 3000
steps. At a moderate pace, the ascent will take about 1.5
hours. You can be carried up the hill in a doli (rope chair)
which costs Rs. 200 to 700 depending on comfort (the choice of quite
a few affluent and obese pilgrims). The most conspicuous sight
on the first entering the first entering the temple compound is that
of exhausted doli bearers resting in the shade.
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