Prior to
Independence, the princely state of Jamnagar was ruled by the Jadeja
Rajputs. The city was built around the small Ranmal Lake, in
the center of which a small palace, reached by a causeway.
Jamnagar has a long
history of pearl fishing and bandhani, a very time-consuming
process of tying thousands of tiny knots in a piece of fabric that
has first been folded upon itself a number of times. This is
then dyed in several stages using different colors. The knots
are pulled apart and the fabric is unfolded to reveal a repeating
pattern in a variety of hues. The process, believed to have
been used in the area for up to 5000 years, is used for saris,
shirts, shawls and other items.
Jamnagar is today
equally well known for having the only Ayurvedic university in India
and a temple listed in the Guinness Book of Records.
The old part of
town, known as Chandni Chowk, has a number of delightful and
decaying buildings and is a great place to wander around. The center
of the old town is known as Darbar Gadh, a semicircular gathering
place where the former maharajas of Nawanagar once held public
audiences.
Orientation &
Information
The center of the new
part of town, where most places to stay are located is Teen Batti
Chowk. The old town is to the south-east. The STC bus
stand and the new train station are a long way to the west and
north-west respectively.
The Lakshmi Vilas
Bank, north of the town hall, is the best place to go for foreign
exchange. Alternatively, you could also try Precious Money
Exchange, which is further around the roundabout. The hotel
President will change US Dollars, pounds sterling, euros and
deutschmarks, but accept cash only.
Cyber City Club,
signposted simply as Cyber Cafe and opposite the town hall, charges
Rs. 30 an hour, while Sham Cyber World, on the first floor next to
hotel Swagat, charges Rs. 35. Both are open 9 am to midnight.
Lakhota Palace
This diminutive
palace only belongs to the maharaja of Nawanagar. Today it
houses a small museum with displays from local archaeological
sites. The museum is reached by a short causeway from the
northern side of Ranmal Lake, and is open from 10.30am to 1pm and 3
to 5.30pm daily (closed Wednesday and the second and fourth Saturday
in the month). Entry costs Rs. 2.
Bala Hanuman Temple
The Bala Hanuman
Temple is on the south-easternside of Ranmal Lake, and here, 24
hours a day since 1 August 1964, there's been continuous chanting of
the prayer "Shri Raj, Jai Ram, Jai Jai Ram" which honors
and pays homage to the Gods. This devotion has earned the
temple a place in the Guinness Book of Records. Early evening
is particularly good time to visit as it's fairly animated
then. In fact this whole area on the south-eastern edge of the
lake becomes very lively around sunset, when people come to
promenade, and the usual chai and kulfi stalls set up and ply their
trade.
Jain Temples
Two Jain Temples,
Shantinath Mandir and Adinath Mandir, in front of the main post
office in Darbar Gadh, are very colorful with fine murals and
domes. Dedicated to the sixteenth and first tirthankars
respectively, these temples are strikingly located in the center of
the old city. The Santinath Mandir is particularly beautiful
with brightly colored columns and a glit-edged dome of concentric
circles in the main sanctuary. Opening hours very but you can
usually find one of the old caretakers to let you in.
These temples form
the centerpiece of the old city with its lovely buildings of wood
and stone, adorned with peeling pastel colored shutters and
crumbling wooden balconies. You could easily spend a couple of
hours exploring the lanes leading out from Chandni Chowk.
Places to Stay
Anupam
Guest House (Teen Batti Chowk) has grubby singles/doubles that are
for 125/150 with private bathroom containing only a bucket; the
shared toilets are awful. Better rooms go for Rs. 150/250 and
the manager will negotiate for these rooms. It's still a
depressing doss house so if you can afford somewhere better, go
there.
Hotel Kirti, off
Teen Batti Chowk, is great value. There are few small singles
for Rs. 200 without air condition, as well as super clean and very
comfortable rooms starting at Rs. 300/400. Car parking is
available.
Hotel Dreamland,
north of Teen Batti Chowk, is set back from the street and is
generally quiet. Reasonable rooms cost Rs. 225/300 or Rs.
400/500 for air-condition. There's a pleasant outdoor restaurant.
Hotel Ashiana, a
vast, rambling place on the top floor of the New Super Market
complex, is one place which takes price differences seriously.
Decidedly ordinary semi deluxe rooms cost Rs. 200/300, the deluxe
rooms are better at Rs. 325/375 while the super deluxe rooms are
huge, comfortable and excellent value. some rooms have a
balcony. There's a veg restaurant here.
Hotel President
(Teen Batti Chowk) is arguably Jamnaga's best hotel. Rooms
with private bathroom, hot water and TV are Rs. 450/560 or Rs.
650/790 with air condition; many of the vary pleasant rooms have a
balcony. Management accepts all major credit cards and can
arrange Internet access. There's also a good restaurant.
Places to Eat
For cheap snack
food in the evening try the stalls set up near Bala Hanuman
Temple.
Hotel Swati
is a veg place near Teen Batti Chowk with a big range of South
Indian (masala dosas Rs. 30), Jain (Sweet Navratna Korma Rs.
40) and Punjabi Dishes. It's open 10am to 3pm and 5 to
10pm.
Madras Hotel,
nearby, specializes in vegetarian South Indian and Punjabi
cuisine, as well as the odd pizzas (Rs. 40).
7 Seas
Restaurant at the Hotel President offers good food, including
continental dishes; veg/nonveg dishes start at Rs. 40/60.
Getting there
and Away & Getting Around
Air
Indian
Airlines (+91 288 550211) has a daily flight to Mumbai
(US$ 95) via Bhuj (US$40); the office is on Bhid Bhanjan
Road and open daily from 10.30am to 6.05pm.
Bus
STC
buses go hourly to Rajkot (Rs. 35) and every 30 minutes
to Junagadh (Rs. 41); other buses go to Dwarka,
Porbandar and Ahemdabad.
There
are various private bus companies; many are in the
blocks west of the clock tower. Ashwamegh Travel
has buses to Ahmedabad, Bhavnagar and Rajkot.
Pavan Travels is also nearby.
Train
The
Saurasthra Mail (9006) is one of the many trains that
run between Jamangar and Ahmedabad (Rs. 79/123/356 in
general/sleeper/3A Class; 6.5 hours); but it also
continues on to Mumbai (Rs. 157/244/707; 17.5
hours). It departs from Jamanagar at 2.40pm
daily. There are also trains to Dwarka and Rajkot.
Getting
Around
There
is no minibus service to the airport, which is a long
way out. Auto rickshaw drivers demand atleast Rs.
100. A rickshaw from the bus stand to the Bedi
Gate area costs about Rs. 10. From Teen Batti
Chowk to the new train station, about 4 km north of the
city center, expect to pay about Rs. 25.
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