On the south-east
coast, midway between Veraval and Dwarka, modern-day Porbandar is
chiefly noted as birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi, beyond which there
are few reasons to visit.
In ancient times,
the city was called Sudamapuri after Sudama, a compatriot of
Krishna, and there was once a flourishing trade from here to Africa
and the Persian Gulf. The Africa connection is apparent in the
number of Indianised blacks, known as Siddis, who form a separate
caste of Dalits.
The State Bank of
India, opposite the Hotel Flamingo, and the State Bank of Saurastra,
in Manek Chowk, are reluctant to change money for non account
holders, but may do so if pushed. Alternatively try Divyaraj
Foreign Exchange, south of the Jynbeeli Bride or Thankys Tours and
Travels on M G Road.
Along the coast at
Madhavpur new Porbander, the Madhavrai Fair is held in the month of
Chitra (March/April) to celebrate Krishna's elopement with Rukmani.
Kirti Mandir
This memorial to
Gandhi was built in 1950. There's a small bookshop and an
exhibition of photographs, some with English captions. Next
door is Gandhi's actual birthplace - a three storey, 300 year-old
house. A swastika marks the spot where the great man was born
on 2 October, 1869. Entrance is free.
Places to Stay
New
Rajkamal Guest House (M G Road) is dirt-cheap in every sense and
only for real shoe stringers. A single costs Rs. 40 or Rs.
50/80 will get you a singe/double with grubby private bathroom and
bucket cold water shower.
Nilesh Guest House
(M G Road) has doubles with private bathroom, hot water and TV for
Rs. 150.
Hotel Flamingo (M G
Road), opposite, is a friendly place with a good restaurant.
Rooms cost from Rs. 100/150 or Rs. 200/250 for better rooms with
satellite TV; breakfast is (sometimes) included in the price.
Some rooms have a balcony which looks straight in to a wall.
Check out is 10am.
Hotel Sheetal,
opposite to main post office is of a slightly better standard.
Rooms have TV and hot water - prices start at Rs. 150/250 upto Rs.
500 for an air-conditioned double. Prices are likely to
increase. There is 24-hour room service and management can arrange
secure parking for those with their own vehicles.
Hotel Moon Palace
is the place to go if you're in search of a little more
comfort. A few singles are available for Rs. 125 though most
rooms starts with Rs. 180/200. The management is decidedly
reluctant to give the cheaper rooms to foreigners. Even so,
the deluxe suite is good value at Rs. 600/700 and as luxurious as
you'll get in Porbandar.
Places to Stay and
Eat
National
Restaurant (M G Road) serves only nonveg dishes. It is
simple but not bad.
Swagat
Restaurant on the eastern end of M G Road is a popular place
with Punjabi food from Rs. 20.
Hotel
Flamingo has a good air conditioned restaurant which offers a
wide range of Punjabi, Chinese and South Indian food; a main
dish costs from Rs. 30 to 60. Non guests are
welcome.
Getting there
and Away
Air
Gujarat
Airways has flights to Mumbai (US$110/Rs. 5005, daily
except Saturday), although how long they'll continue is
anyone's guess.
Bus
The STC
bus stand is a four-minute walk from M G Road.
There are regular services to Dwarka, Jamnagar, Veraval
and Junagadh. The private bus companies have
offices on M G Road, near Hotel Flamingo.
Train
The
Saurastra Express (9216) leaves Porbandar at 8pm daily
and travels to Mumbai (Rs. 170/264/1224 in
general/sleeper/2A class, 23.5 hours, 959 kms) via
Rajkot (Rs. 59/92/464, 4 hours) and Ahmedabad (Rs.
104/162/749, 10 hours).
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