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Thursday, September 14, 2000 Day 18 |
Previous day
Next day |
| Route |
Los Alamos NM - Santa Fe NM - Taos NM - Farmington NM
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After exploring both ancient history at
Bandelier National Monument
and 20th century science at the
Bradbury Science Museum,
this was a rather uneventful day. Today's goal simply was to get to Farmington, from where I would start the side trip to
Southern Colorado. So I drove back to Santa Fe, kept on going North to Taos, where the highway crosses the Colorado River
at a really amazing
gap
in an otherwise completely flat environment.
From there on, I was westbound once again. It's a rather scenic route from Taos to Farmington. After all, it was quite a nice
day of leisurely cruising along the winding roads of Northern New Mexico.
| Accommodation |
Comfort Inn 555 Scott Avenue Farmington NM 87401 USD 87.74 per night |
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Friday, September 15, 2000 Day 19 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Farmington NM -
Aztec Ruins National Monument -
Durango CO - Silverton CO - Ouray CO - Montrose CO
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Today's trip definitively means goodbye to the vast plains of New Mexico. Instead, mountains up to 11,000 ft
(3,350 m) are waiting for me. But first, there's an ancient pueblo waiting to be explored.
Aztec Ruins National Monument, located half way between Farmington and Durango, is the first stop today.
After that, I drive straight thru Durango, towards Silverton. Highway 550 turns out to be a winding road thru a rather
narrow valley. It climbs up to several passes, like
Molas Pass
(elevation 10,899 ft / 3,322 m).
The scenic road provides numerous great views as it winds thru the mountains.
Then, descending from another pass,
Silverton
appears. The former mining town has been declared a National Historic Landmark, so its quite well preserved and
still gives you pretty good idea of what the town once looked like. There are some impressive buildings along main street
that reflect the wealth this remote area had achieved during the gold- and silver rush of the late 1800s. Since Silverton
is a rather small town, it does not take a long time to walk around and enjoy the well preserved historic buildings.
North of Silverton, the valley turns into a gap and the mountains on both sides of the road are so high that hardly any
sunlight makes it all the way down to the valley floor.
Ouray,
about 23 miles (37 km) North of Silverton, also has some historic buildings along the main street, but basically it's a ski
resort, which of course influences the cost of accommodation. Therefore, I chose not to stay here but to continue to Montrose.
North of Ouray, the valley opens to a rather wide plain. Montrose turns out to be a nice town to spend the night, although
there are no specific attractions that might make me want to extend my stay.
Silverton
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Population | 500 |
| Elevation | 9,318 ft (2,840 m) | Links |
Silverton Visitor Guide by the Silverton Area Chamber of Commerce List of movies filmed in Silverton |
My pictures | Picture gallery of Silverton |
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The Town of Silverton has been declared a National Historic Landmark:
A walk around town is like stepping back in time. In addition to the court house, grand
hotels, and magnificent Victorian homes, Silverton could once claim 40 gambling halls,
saloons, and sporting houses. Silverton's elaborate Victorian architecture
reflects the millions of dollars in gold and silver that was drawn from the earth during
the mining vigor of the late 1800s.
Map of Silverton Historic Walking tour (map) |
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| Accommodation |
Colorado Inn 1417 East Main Street Montrose CO 81401 USD 64.73 per night |
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Saturday, September 16, 2000 Day 20 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Montrose CO - Telluride CO - Cortez CO
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This is gonna be another day on the road as I have to get back to Southern Colorado. So, after leaving Montrose, I turn
off highway 550 at Ridgway to follow highway 62 across the Dallas Divide (8,970 ft / 2,734 m). At Placerville, this road
joins highway 145, which takes me further South and will eventually lead to today's destination, Cortez.
The only major attraction (apart from the great mountains, of course) is Telluride, approximately 20 miles South of Placerville. The
main street of this former mining town features some well preserved buildings. Today, Telluride is one of the area's major ski resorts.
The rest of today's trip is rather uneventful, so I arrive in Cortez in the early afternoon.
Telluride
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Population | 1,600 | Elevation | 8,750 ft (2,667 m) | Links |
Telluride Visitor Guide List of movies filmed in Telluride |
My pictures | Picture gallery of Telluride |
Telluride once was a booming mining town that produced gold, silver, zinc, lead,
copper and iron. The town was established in 1880. With the coming of the
railroad in 1890, the town flourished and Telluride's population soared to 5,000.
Silver prices crashed in 1893, followed by the first World War in 1917 and the end
of the mining boom in Telluride. Gold prices were fixed during the war and many men
left the mines to join the armed forces or work in war-related industries. Telluride
never fully recovered. By the 1960s the place was barely more than a ghost town,
the population having dwindled to less than 600 residents.
Nowadays, Telluride's primary source of income is tourism. In 1972, the Telluride
ski area opened, which brought many visitors to the town. A mountain village was
erected above Telluride to allow year-round skiing activities.
Map
80 kb |
| Accommodation |
Best Western Sands 1120 East Main Street Cortez CO 81321 USD 59.63 per night |
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Sunday, September 17, 2000 Day 21 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Cortez CO -
Mesa Verde National Park -
Cortez CO
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Today I want to visit what some people refer to as one of the greatest American
National Parks -
Mesa Verde.
Since the park is rather big and has a lot of ancient ruins to be visited, I plan to
spend the entire day there.
On the way from the park entrance checkpoint (which is only 10 miles from Cortez) to the visitor center, the road winds thru the vast area that had been destroyed by wildfires in summer 2000. Although vegetation slowly starts to grow again, most of the hills still look plain black from a distance. At the visitor center, I intend to buy a ticket for the guided tour to Wetherill Mesa and the Cliff Dwellings there. Unfortunately, some other visitors have the same intension, which results in a waiting time of over an hour. So I decide to visit the ruins that can be visited on self-guided tours first. On Chapin Mesa, numerous ruins, dwellings and excavations are waiting for visitors. I spend the better part of the day visiting these ruins and hiking to viewpoints which provide views to distant dwellings. On the way back to the park exit, I stop at Park Point, the park's highest point (8,571 ft / 2,621 m). This place provides spectacular panoramic views. From here, I return to Cortez. |
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Mesa Verde National Park |
| Accommodation |
Best Western Sands 1120 East Main Street Cortez CO 81321 USD 59.63 per night |
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Monday, September 18, 2000 Day 22 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Cortez UT -
Four Corners National Monument
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Moab UT
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Arches National Park
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Moab UT
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Today's first stop was
Four Corners National Monument,
the only place in the United States where where four states come together at one place. The singular corner shared by
Arizona, New Mexico, Utah and Colorado is marked by
a concrete monument featuring the Great Seal of each of the four states. Other than that, there's not much to see
here, and so left after ten minutes. My stay would have been even shorter if there had not been quite a long queue of other
visitors all waiting to get up to the small platform that provides a view from above of the monument.
Then I drove straight North to Moab, the town that serves as the gateway to
Arches National Park.
I arrived there well before noon, so there was plenty of time for vising the National Park right away. At the park, I hiked to
several significant rocks and impressing natural arches. The most famous of these,
Delicate Arch,
can be seen from a viewpoint which is easily accessible. Unfortunately, the arch is pretty far away from this viewpoint. So I
decided to do the 2.5 mile hike that is required to get a closer look of this arch. But since it already was pretty late and I
was kind of tired from numerous hikes, I postponed this walk until tomorrow.
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Four Corners National Monument Arches National Park |
| Accommodation |
Best Western Greenwell In 105 South Main Street Moab UT 84532 USD 88.68 per night |
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Tuesday, September 19, 2000 Day 23 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Moab UT
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Dead Horse Point State Park
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Arches National Park
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Moab UT
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Today, I intended to hike to Delicate Arch at
Arches National Park.
According to the park guide, this arch is best to be viewed in the late afternoon. So I started the day with a visit to
Dead Horse Point State Park
some 30 miles (48 km) outside of Moab. This park, located on top of a mountain range, provides some great views on the Colorado
river valley.
After returning to Moab, I still had plenty of time left, so I decided to drive thru Castle valley, which is part of a
scenic loop drive recommended by local tourist guides. This valley, just East of Moab, is really beautiful and surprisingly green,
in contrast to the desert-like environment of
Arches National Park.
Then, after some recreation (after all, I still had some hiking ahead of me), I went back to the National Park. The sun was not
too hot, so walking across the rocks (no shadow whatsoever) was not too strenuous. But the trail climbs up about 590 ft (180 m)
over its 2.8 miles (4.5 km) distance, so inexperienced hikers (like me) still are quite exhausted by the time they reach the arch.
It takes about 40 minutes to walk from the trail head to the arch.
The arch is located near a rather deep gap, shielded from the hiking trail by a wall of rocks. So rather than seeing the arch
getting closer and closer, you just walk along this wall of rocks, and then, all of a sudden, you stand in front of this giant
arch - among many, many, many other tourists, of course. Since the sky was a bit cloudy (which was great for hiking), everybody
was waiting for the arch to stand in bright sunlight. So I spent over an hour waiting, taking pictures, waiting again and taking
more pictures.
The way back is, of course, all downhill, and so it took me not quite as long to get back. After about 25 minutes, I was back
where I started, and all that was now left to do was the short drive back to Moab.
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Dead Horse Point State Park Arches National Park |
Moab
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Population | 4,500 | Elevation | 4,025 ft (1,227 m) | Links |
Grand County Travel Council List of movies filmed in Moab |
Located on the banks of the Colorado River, nestled in a fertile green valley between soaring red sandstone cliffs, the
town of Moab is truly an emerald in the desert. Moab's close proximity to several national and state parks has made it a popular
destination, and a wonderful location to begin any adventure in southeastern Utah. The majestic LaSal Mountains tower
over the southern
end of town attaining heights of nearly 13,000 ft (3,965 m. Just five miles north of town is
Arches National Park,
which contains the world's largest concentration of natural stone arches. Thirty miles west of Moab is
Canyonlands National Park, containing over 500 square miles of incredibly rugged and spectacular canyon country.
Map of Moab
| Accommodation |
Best Western Greenwell In 105 South Main Street Moab UT 84532 USD 88.68 per night |
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Wednesday, September 20, 2000 Day 24 |
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| Route |
Moab UT -
Monument valley
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Kayenta AZ
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In the morning, I left Moab on southbound Highway 191. Today's destination was
Monument valley,
located on the border of Utah and Arizona. I arrived at Goulding just after noon. Since I had visited the area twice before,
I still had in mind that all the motels around here are charging exorbitant prices even for basic rooms. To save some money,
I called at the
Goulding camp ground -
after all, there was this brand new tent in the trunk of my car waiting to be set up for the first time. Unfortunately, I was
not the only traveller looking of a camp site, and so I learned that there was not even one single tent site vacant on that camp
ground. So I had no choice but to drive to Kayenta, where I checked in at the local Best Western Motel.
Since I had done the guided tours at Monument valley on both my previous visits (in 1994 and 1995), I chose to do only the
self - guided tour this time. I intended to watch today's sunset, so I went to the park in late afternoon.
Watching sunset at Monument valley is quite comfortable, as the best spot to do this is right at the visitor center.
Even though many tourists gather for this event, the viewing platform was not too crowded.
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Monument valley |
| Accommodation |
Best Western Wetherill Inn Highway 163 P O Box 175 Kayenta AZ 86033 USD 97.47 per night |
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Thursday, September 21, 2000 Day 25 |
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| Route |
Kayenta AZ -
Grand Canyon Natonal Park
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Flagstaff AZ
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From Kayenta, I headed straight to the Eastern entrance of
Grand Canyon Natonal Park,
where I arrived at 9 am. Since Kayenta is part of a Native American reservation, Daylight Saving Time is observed
there whereas the rest of Arizona is on Pacific Time all year. So, I gained one hour.
Since I had visited Grand Canyon twice before (1994 and 1995), I pretty much knew what was waiting for me. Nevertheless,
I stopped at nearly every single view point along the road. It's always a great experience to look down that giant canyon.
I arrived at Grand Canyon village well before noon. So there was plenty of time left to also visit West rim, which
is only accessible by shuttle bus. But then, I saw the huge crowd of visitors waiting for the bus. Since standing in line is
not much fun, I decided to suspend this trip for one day. After all, I still had to drive to Flagstaff and find an accommodation
for the night.
So I left the National Park on Highway 180 which takes you directly to Flagstaff in about 90 minutes.
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Grand Canyon Natonal Park |
Flagstaff
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Population | 65,000 | Elevation | 7,000 ft (2,134 m) | Links |
Flagstaff Chamber of Commerce City of Flagstaff Flagstaff Visitor Guide List of movies filmed in Flagstaff |
Flagstaff, located at the intersection of Interstate 17 and I-40, is the largest city and is the regional center of northern
Arizona. It is the county seat for Coconino County. Flagstaff is one of the highest U.S. cities and its breath-taking
backdrop is even higher. The community sits at the base of the San Francisco Peaks, Arizona's highest point at
12,633 feet (3,851 m).
The town has long been a transportation hub. Located along an old wagon road to California, Flagstaff began after the railroad
arrived in 1881. Today the town links I-40 to I-17, Highway 89 to Page and Utah, and Highway 180 to the Grand Canyon. Historic
Route 66 passes through Flagstaff. Flagstaff's name comes from a tall pine tree made into a flag pole
in 1876 to celebrate the Declaration of Independence Centennial.
Today, Flagstaff also serves as a gateway for visitors to the region's attractions, first of all, of course,
Grand Canyon Natonal Park
which is located 75 miles North of the town.
Map
| Grand Canyon National Park | My Grand Canyon page | ||
| Accommodation |
Best Western Kings House 1560 East Route 66 Flagstaff AZ 86001 USD USD 43.96 per night |
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Friday, September 22, 2000 Day 26 |
Previous day
Next day |
| Route |
Flagstaff AZ -
Grand Canyon National Park
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Flagstaff AZ
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Today's goal was to visit the West Rim of Grand Canyon - that's where I had not been before. There was, unlike yesterday, no
crowd waiting for the shuttle bus, and so I was quickly on the way to the Western lookouts once I arrived at Grand Canyon Village.
Since the distances in between some of the viewing areas are not too long, I chose to hike a part of the West Rim rather than
riding on the bus all the way. So I walked from Powell Point to Hopi Point (0.3 miles / 0.5 km)
and further on to Mohave Point (0.8 miles / 1.3 km). Being not a very experienced hiker I did the rest
of the trip, to Pima Point and finally to Hermit's rest, the lazy way - by bus.
All of these lookouts provide great views of the Canyon, and so I spent even more time in the National Park than yesterday -
despite the fact that the West Rim Drive is much shorter than East Rim Drive.
After returning to Grand Canyon Village, I left the park to return to Flagstaff.
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Grand Canyon Natonal Park |
| Accommodation |
Crystal Inn 602 West Route 66 Flagstaff AZ 86001 USD 54.89 per night |
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Saturday, September 23, 2000 Day 27 |
Previous day
Next day |
| Route |
Flagstaff AZ - Historic Route 66 - Kingman AZ
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This day is dedicated to Historic Route 66. The first stop, right after exiting
Interstate 40 (westbound), is
Seligman,
where some buildings have remained unchanged for decades. The town features a few interesting
Route 66 souvenir stores.
The road from Seligman to Kingman is one of the longest sections of the original Route 66 still remaining. Since most
of the traffic uses the nearby Interstate 40, travelling this historic stretch is quite comfortable.
The next stop is a
former gas station
that has been converted into a souvenir store. Obviously, selling overpriced items featuring the Route 66 emblem to
tourists is by far the most profitable type of business in this area.
Approximately 20 miles (32 km) further down the road, we're back from the past as we arrive inKingman. But even though
it's just an average, modern town, the past is still alive along Route 66. There are a number of quite old motels and
diners which constantly remind you of the history of the road.
| Accommodation |
Quality Inn 1400 East Andy Devine Ave Kingman AZ 86401 USD 53.34 per night |
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Sunday, September 24, 2000 Day 28 |
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Next day |
| Route |
Kingman AZ - Laughlin NV -
Hoover Dam
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Las Vegas NV
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Route 66 takes me further West. After entering Nevada at Laughlin, a town that's not really worth to
stop at, I drove straight to
Hoover Dam.
Although I didn't get to join one of the tours, I really enjoyed the visit. Even though I had visited the dam before, it was
great to walk across this gigantic structure. Nowadays, it's no problem to find all the facts you need about the dam on the
internet
(
right here,
for instance), but you still have to actually go there and see it to fully understand its dimensions.
All right, for those of you who absolutely need to know how I failed to get on one of the guided tours (I've been told they're
really interesting): When I first approached the visitor center's entrance, I learned from a rather disgruntled security guard
that there are absolutely no bags whatsoever tolerated inside that building - for security reasons.
So I hiked all the way back to the car to leave my camera case there (cameras, without a bag, are allowed). When I finally returned
to the checkpoint, the guard was just about to close down the entrance "for at least 45 minutes" because the visitor center
just had reached its visitors capacity. At that point, I really got pissed and decided not to wait that long only to end up in another
queue at the tour ticket counter. So I left this otherwise nice place and headed towards
Las Vegas.
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Hoover Dam |
| Accommodation |
Comfort Inn 211 E. Flamingo Road Las Vegas NV 89109 USD 53.95 per night |
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Philip Hediger |
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