Mexico Trip


July 1987

Click on the first picture to go on a Tour of Mexico

THIS IS MEXICO

1. June 30, 1987 - Delta, Flight 1742 arriving in Mexico City.

2. Overlooking Chapultepec Park in Mexico City. Includes Chapultepec Castle (presently the National Museum of History), the National Museum of Anthropology, and 2,100 acres of greenery, gardens, playgrounds, lovely drives, etc. ?rasshopper Hill?is the meaning of Chapultepec, a name given by the Aztecs, who used the area for a zoo and summer residence for royalty. Below the left wing of the airplane is Mexico City? stately boulevard, Paseo de la Reforma.

3. Almost 650 years after its founding, Mexico City is still growing in all directions, still in a state of ceaseless agitation, still a mixture of ideas and ideals. Streets are not regimented by a regular grid pattern but run wildly in all directions, impatiently switching their names every few blocks. Settlements that are suburbs one day are ingested by the city and become ?olonias?the next.

4. Market Day in Cholula. Street merchants set up shop on the street. Household items, fruit, vegetables, meat, and various trinkets are on sale. Bartering is not only permissible, but it is actually encouraged. Musicians also play for a few pesos.

5. Market Day in Cholula. Caged birds and other live animals can be found for sale in local markets.

6. Church in Puebla. The true conquest of Mexico was made by the missionary priests and friars who spread across the land, trying to supplant paganism with Christianity. Franciscan, Dominican, and Augustinian groups competed for territorial possession of New Spain. The Colonial Period was a time of church building, some modestly simple, some massively beautiful.

7. Church in Puebla. Pagan temples were destroyed and Christian churches were built in their place. Pagan gods and goddesses were replaced with Christian saints. Statues of the Virgin Mary can be seen in nearly every church.

8. Another church in Puebla. Since dissemination of the Catholic faith was one of the aims of the Spanish colonial system, the Church became a powerful force in Mexico. Although padres and friars labored in the field to save souls, many of their predecessors had constructed a holy hierarchy that allowed them to acquire vast properties. At one period, half of the land and wealth of Mexico was owned by the Church, and the line between Church and State was so fine as to be indiscernible.

9. A wounded and dead Jesus. The suffering ?on of Man?is a popular image with the poverty-stricken Mexicans. Jesus in a coffin or Jesus on a cross is plainly visible and openly worshipped in nearly all of the Catholic churches.

10. View of volcanoes from the University of the Americas, Puebla. On the left sits majestic Popocatepetl, and on the right lays ragged Ixtaccihuatl.

11. View of volcanoes, Popocatepetl and Ixtaccihuatl. In front of Popo (nickname for Popocatepetl) is the town of Cholula. In front of Ixtaccihuatl is the pyramid of Cholula with a church on top. In the foreground are the faculty apartments. Popocatepetl (pronounced popo-ka-tay-peddle) means ?moking mountain?and has an elevation of 17,887 feet. Ixtaccihuatl (pronounced ish-tok-zee-waddle) means ?leeping woman?and has an elevation of 17,343 feet.

12. View of Cholula homes from small pre-Columbian pyramid.

13. Me on steps of pre-Columbian pyramid.

14. Cathedral in Cholula zocalo (?enter?. Center of colonial architecture, Cholula is said to have a church for every day of the year. Though there may not be quite that many, it does seem that the eye cannot move without falling on several at one time. Their numbers are probably due to the fact that during pre-Conquest times there were hundreds of Indian shrines and temples in the area, which the Spaniards offset with Christian structures. The cathedral is called the Franciscan convent of St. Gabriel.

15. View of archaeological zone beside the Cholula pyramid. Cholula was considered to be a religious mecca, a site where Indians from all over the valley would gather every year for major religious festivals. The first investigation began in 1931; the second investigation proceeded from 1966 through 1970. Present archaeological work is discontinued due to lack of funds.

16. Another aspect of the archaeological zone beside the Cholula pyramid. City of Cholula is in the background. Archaeological periods are divided for classification purposes into three periods: (1) Pre-Classic from 500 BC to 800 AD; (2) Classic from 800AD to 1100AD; (3) Post-Classic from 1100 AD to the present.

17. Sanctuary of the Virgin of Los Remedios atop the Cholula pyramid. The church was constructed by the Spanish atop an Indian pyramid covered over with earth. The entire archaeological site is being restored as a national treasure.

18. Inside a tunnel of the Cholula pyramid. The tunnel was excavated alongside the 2nd pyramid. According to religious belief and calendar, every 52 years was celebrated with the building of a new section of a new pyramid, which covered the previous pyramid.

19. Steps of the 2nd pyramid. Evidently there were 125 steps that led to the top of the 2nd pyramid.

20. Cholula postcard.

21. Adobe makers at the base of the pyramid. Father and son team work at making adobe bricks for restoration of pyramid.

22. Original floor of the 3rd pyramid. Round disk with square hole in foreground is used for water collection. Sanctuary of Los Remedios (Virgin of the Remedy) is in the background.

23. Sacrificial altar ?discovered in 1968 by Mr. Acosta. These altars were used to propitiate the gods and to insure a plentiful harvest.

24. View across the courtyard. Various excavated sections of the pyramid can be seen.

25. Stone of Quetzalcoatl. Faces of serpent-god Quetzalcoatl can be seen along the edge of the monolithic stone, which is usually in upright position.

26. A closer look at the serpent face. The serpent face is a very prominent feature of Meso-american religious sculpture. It is of interest to note that Quetzalcoatl as God of the Wind was a deity of such importance that he was respected as a benevolent deity throughout three great periods of Meso-american history extending over one thousand years.

27. Olmec head uncovered at Cholula pyramid. Artifacts from Toltec, Zapotec, and Chultec periods were also uncovered.

28. Me in front of monolithic stone at Cholula pyramid.

29. Cholula was known before as ?eo Kali,?meaning ?ome of the gods.? Some sections were dedicated to certain gods or goddesses, such as this section, which was dedicated to ?hiconahaugh,?meaning ?od of nine waters.?

30. Restored section of the Cholula pyramid on northern side. Group of teachers from Oregon view the site.

31. The steps of the restored section of the Cholula pyramid.

32. Interior of Sanctuary Virgin of Los Remedios. Small robed statue of the Virgin stands on top of a crescent moon and on top of the earth, which is encircled by serpent.

33. View from top of Cholula pyramid. View encompasses Sanitarium in foreground, campus of University of the Americas in right background, and city of Puebla in complete background. Route of Quetzalcoatl connects the cities of Cholula (in foreground) and Puebla (in background).

34. Archeological zone of Cacaxtla in the state of Tlaxcala. Diggings here began in 1975. The nearby city of Tlaxcala became the home of the Tlaxcala Indian Nation after a battle with the Aztecs at Lake Texcoco, in which the Aztecs were defeated. Alliance with the Otomi Indians provided the military protection which allowed the Tlaxcaltecas to advance their civilization. Leaders of this small but powerful nation were the first allies of Cortez, giving him active aid against the Aztecs.

35. Mural at Cacaxtla. The mural depicts a battle between the dark forces (Olmecs ??hicananges? and the light forces (Mayas eathers. The center of the picture revolves around two warrior-priests, who are representatives of the two forces (light=eagle form, dark=jaguar form).

36. The battle scene mural at Cacaxtla. An actual battle probably took place around 650 AD. The mural seems to also be a symbolical representation of another type of battle, a spiritual battle which takes place in the heart. In the symbolical representation Quetzalcoatl (God of Wind), who is seen standing on a feathered serpent, battles with Tlaloc (God of Rain), who is depicted with yellow, earthy colors.

37ls from the rays of the sun, and to insure longevity for the entire cultural and archeological site. The covering is the second largest of its kind in the world.

39. A model of the archeological zone of Cacaxtla. The entire site was a religious center and was used mainly for ceremonial purposes. A pyramid structure with a temple on top would be the primary feature of the center, and the priests?housing and other ceremonial facilities would be the secondary features.

40. Sacrificial remains found in tomb at Cacaxtla. The bones are those of a child. The method of sacrifice was most probably by the opening of the heart, especially since an obsidian knife was found near the area of the heart. The sacrifice was performed to appease the rain-god, Tlaloc.

41. Mural in the Government Palacepital city of Tlaxcala. The apocalyptic mural tells the story of the prophecy of Quetzalcoatl (bearded white god), foretelling his return. The comet (blazing star) precedes the return of the white god, and the rest of the mural depicts the historical return of Cortez and the destruction of the Aztec Empire.

43. Ceuzatlan Market Place. The little mountainous town of Cuezatlan is located in the Sierra Madre Oriental range east of Mexico City. The natives in the surrounding countryside come to a weekly market day on Sundays. They set up their tables or blankets with whatever they wish to sell. Some come with flowers, fruit, vegetables, hand-made blouses and baskets to sell or barter for. Bargaining for a lower price is part of the fun of buying things from the natives.

44. Cuezatlan stone-paved street. The streets are narrow and very difficult to drive a car on. Most of the shops are very small and specialize in a few items. The doors the shops remain open during store hours, which are usually from 8:00 in the morning until 1:30 in the afternoon. Shops usually take a siesta break from 1:30 to 4:00 in the afternoon. Then they reopen from 4 to 7 or later in the evening.

45. View of Oaxaca. The valley of Oaxaca has long been an area of human settlement. The best know of the early settlers were, without a doubt, the Mixtecs and Zapotecs. Extensive archeological finds have been made at sites such as Monte Alban and Mitla, providing clear evidence of the lifestyles and beliefs of these two civilizations.

46. Benito Juarez Monument on the Pan-American Highway turnoff to Guelatao (birthplace of Juarez). Benito Juarez is the greatest hero of Oaxaca and of all Mexico. He rose from humble Zapotec shepherd roots to an apprentice to a priest, then to a poor lawyer, then State Representative, State Senator, Governor of Oaxaca, Head of the Supreme Court of Mexico, and finally, President of the Republic (1867-1872). The slogan says: ?l respeto al derecho ajeno es la paz?(The right of people to have respect and peace). The monument depicts phases of his life.

47. The Tule tree (Arbol del Tule). This is the oldest and largest tree in Mexico, reputedly over 2,000 years old (some say 3,000). It is said that it takes seventy men to encircle the tree with their extended arms (nearly 140 feet). The town of Santa Maria del Tule sits astride the Pan-American Highway south of Oaxaca City. The tree is the same species as the Sequoia (giant cypress) trees of California, called ?huehuetes?in Mexico. The Tule tree has many spectacular protuberances, which native children claim are figures of various animals.

48. Dainzu ruins. The original city was located on the east side of the city of Oaxaca. The photo shows a partially reconstructed ball court. The date would be about 1000 AD. The ground plan has the double ??and lacks rings (our guide suggested a hard rubber ball was bounced off the shoulders, hips, or legs against the sides of the stepped buildings). The four niches (one in each corner) could have contained the image of the god who patronized each game or may have been for the placing of bets.

49. Dainzu ruins. The name Dainzu means ?actus hill.? Sure enough, cactus still grow on this hill with the partially exposed pyramid. Across from the pyramid is a vast building with large patios and numerous apartments.

50. Valley of Oaxaca. Cornfields plowed by the ancient and primitive method of oxen and plow. A farmer walks behind the Spanish-introduced plow to make sure a straight furrow is made. Very few tractors are used on the farms in Mexico.

51. Teotitlan de Villa ?a village where the weavers work with their looms to produce excellent rugs, serapes, and blankets. The man in the yellow shirt was our guide during our field trip days in Oaxaca. His name is Jose Moreno.

52. Teotitlan de Villa ?close up of looms with men working with hands and feet to produce many colored works of art. Men and women were seen working patiently and persistently with deep concentration to produce grand patterns out of the finest natural material.

53. Lambityeco ruins (near Oaxaca). Sculpture in stucco is a particularly noteworthy element in Lambityeco, although it is not exclusive to Oaxaca. At the exposed base of a pyramid are the stucco sculptures of two human heads which appear to be portraits (a little bigger than life-size). The one on the left is the head of a man, and on the right is the head of a woman.

54. Lambityeco Masks. The stucco sculptures are enormous busts of Cocijo, the Zapotec rain god. These large sculptures are in front of Tomb 2, and they adorn the facade of a room on the west of an interior patio.

55. Villa de Mitla (village near Mitla). A woman is making fresh tortillas for us.

56. Mitla - center of Zapotec culture and spiritual rule. This is where the Uija-tao, spiritual leader and high priest of the Zapotecs, lived in solitude and strictest seclusion. The main building here is called the Palace of the Columns. The building has elaborate mosaic decorations that characterize the architecture of this archeological zone.

57. Mitla - mosaic. In 1895, the architect Holmes calculated that the walls of the Palace of Columns were composed of over 100,000 limestone tiles set in mosaic - a meticulously executed decoration. The construction involved first erecting a stone wall held together with mud, which served as a base. Onto this, small cut stones were incrusted to form a mosaic. Each was perfectly cut on all sides (wedge-shaped) to exactly fit the neighboring stones. This technique permitted a variety of motifs.

58. Mitla - Hall of Columns. The interior of the large hall is 38 meters long and 7 meters wide. Along its central axis there is a file of six monolithic columns which used to support a roof. One continues through a narrow passage with a very low roof (to the right), which must have constituted a magnificent defense. After this, one arrives at an interior patio with a long, narrow room on each side.

59. Mitla - ?ouse tomb.? These were once highly elaborate ?ouse tombs?used for the burial of Zapotec high priests. The cross-shaped tombs were found under the galleries -- these were obviously collective graves for priests who were buried here one after the other. Part of the roof was supported by a monolithic column, popularly nicknamed the Column of Life. It is said that if one embraces it, one will find out how many years are left of one? existence.

60. View from Monte Alban. Monte Alban (the name means ?hite hill? is the largest ceremonial center of Zapotec civilization. Monte Alban lies just 10km (6 miles) southwest of the center of Oaxaca. Monte Alban is situated on an artificially levelled-off plateau which dominates the whole Oaxaca Valley. The plateau is some 1,830 meters (6,000 feet) above sea level and a good 300 meters (984 feet) above the modern city of Oaxaca. Because of this vantage point, Monte Alban is often referred to as a ?ortress.?

61. Monte Alban. The buildings of the site stand on a spacious, elongated plaza (the Great Square, 200 meters or

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